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MMI Enterprises

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Posts posted by MMI Enterprises

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Everyone (even Hillary) thought they had more modern WMD's. And chances are everyone watched them go across borders in trucks so why is wmd even a valid topic of susbstantiating the war or not?

    Can't prove they were or weren't there at any point during the war so far. We took out a dictatorship and if anything decided to stick around a bit too long afterwards is my belief. We would have saved more face and American lives by pulling out directly when GW said heavy battle was over. Yea they would have had their civil war earlier big whoop.. nothing will prevent them warring factions from that.Some say well we can fight them there or here. I say BS to that at some degree and think they just would have killed each other. Yes the fight is real but I respect so much more the factthat they just want to fight with someone or anyone. Before us it was the Russians. (remember when rambo helped out?..lol)

    On another forum I visit they posed a question of what freedom means to you. Some say all these selfish things of being able to do this or that without government intrusion stuff. I say freedom means that which requires responsability.... I don't think there is any one thing to blaim but fanaticizm in general invoking action. Whether action is defensive or aggressive I call it necessary for sake of responsability.

    just my two cents ..carry on..

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Well I should clear up and end my intrusion into this debate by making some corrections to my priors..never read spray tip markings without proper light..haha.

    The Spray Systems Washjet tip I refered to is a CSSS 0080. Will be good as a mid distance rinse tip on hand wand. Too hard to hold on extension wand...

    Found the problem why my spray not being smooth and sharp compared to others. The rollover gizmo to run and select between two tips on single wand was causing problem.

    Once I removed it from my wand I gained at least 25% more power! Guess the only thing we want on end of wand is a nice smooth path with full volume right before tip. I was able to move up to a 25 degree tip as my standard flat work tip and now the hose barb method for shooting distance works like a charm as well. Can shoot about 35' over the peak of my roof with a stainless barb and a very slightly sqwished brass one is giving me a nice 3' wide fan pattern out about 25'. Now if I can just get ahold of Mike's $12 DS'er that does about 3:1 draw I'll be set.

  4. Posted · Report reply

    So what is in there that is different than a Downstreamer besides the adjustable spray tip?.. an extra gizmo or two or is it just orifice sizes? Why can't downstreamer manufactures resize to draw more like an xjet? What stops these xjets from being mounted at machine just like a downstreamer or vica versa? I assume cause the xjet will just keep on drawing no matter the pressure if it were mounted at machine?..all questions I am today..hehe

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Kevin, we all use the threaded type tips but we attach them to a quick coupler. On your machine a 0 degree #30 orifice will draw your chemical you can go as high as a #40 and still get higher than 25 feet. The designations would be 0030.0 or 0040.0 As an alternative you can quick couple a barb and use a pair of needle nose plier to put a little bend at the output end. This will introduce some agitation to the strema and help it spread a little. Start with a very slight bend.

    We use dual lance 4 foot wands and can get 40 feet with no difficulty.

    If you want to try the X-Jet pick up the M-5 version. It was mentioned also that housewashes yield a certain pay per hour. I'm not gonna revisit that but I sold two house washes (with gutter scrubbing, polymer/wax, a patio and retaining wall right next door to each other) for $800 each. One crew will do them both in one day.

    So my regular high pressure nozzles are missing the decimal point and so are marked like 15055 instead of 1505.5 and that gets me 3k psi with about 4.76 gpm with an actual .06 orifice dia. (5.5 size).This is according to attached chart.

    So using that chart it looks like I would want to be down the chart to the **30.0 and then over to the 4.74 gpm which would give me about 100psi running a 1.41 orifice dia. (30 size). Now if that looks and sounds correct great but here is where I am confused: My current soap nozzle that I use on flatwork/fleet is a bit hard to read due to wear but seems to be reading as a 4030 . I must be reading the 3rd digit wrong cause I can't imagine it getting up beyond 15' or so. Does anyone think the spray degree being at 40 changes the shoot distance so much so that I could be reading it correctly?

    What ever the case apparently I just need to get a few different properly marked sizes and try them. I should point out that it has become apparent that I was misfitted when someone sold me the Spray Systems Wash Jet nozzle for my 8' wand described in my early post. Am just atomizing water with it being a 5.5 and sapping all my strength as well. How irritating!

    Mike, those sizes you requoted really beg the question of what size orifice or psi that a perticular setup will stop drawing at. I imagine the role of the little spring or weight of the little ball in the downstreamer combined with backpressure does the deciding on that.. ?

    The question of what pressure people like to or are able to get down to while rinsing houses with downstream method while not having to actually go valve off the chem might be a worthy question. Personally I can't stand walking back for to do such things as turning off a downstreamer and just want to roll my wand over to pick between one that draws and one that don't. Valves as such at the tip of my wand seem to have gone by the wayside and I never see anyone else using them due to the dual lance.

    C_Nozzle.pdf

  6. Posted · Report reply

    You by chance got a pic of how a quik coupled barb or quik coupled tip looks like?.Not quite getting what type barb you describe. Sounds like an interesting fix for a straight stream in pinching or bending something. Such an idea probably doesn't do anything for a regular spray tip system since they really form the pattern at the very last second of water escaping through orifice. Does that make sense?

    Other problem I invision with extremely straight streams would be that of most or all of the chemical bouncing off surface. We want to spray that on at some fan or patern size right?

    You saying just use one tip for both downstreaming and the rinse?. Either way both need to be of the 00** variety then?.. with the last two variable numbers being pressure level?. My regualr nozzle would be a 5 or 5.5 I assume..

    xjet pattern varies between what and what?. total wide open fan (or round) to a pencil stream or what? Wondering what kind of pressure the xjet ends people with. Lower pressure would have less overspray right?

    :)

  7. Posted · Report reply

    Older thread but seems to have some invaluable info if I can make sense of it...

    My machine is 3k@5gpm (think it a General 4.8 gpm pump really though) with my regular hand wand I have the single tube with dual tips in a valve gizmo at the tip end that I do a little shake/flip to pick between the low and high 1/4 meg threaded tips (not quik connect). Never tried nozzles in it for high soaping or high rinsing but it allows me to leave downstreamer on if I want to. This been getting used mainly for flat work only.

    Then for single story and eaves I have a 8' wand but dislike it plenty. Is a bear to use due to both the angled 1' extension towards the end and I think it has too much pressure maybe. The tip in it now is a Spray Sytems Wash Jet cs55 (?that sound right?) and it will get up maybe 15' or so before atomizing spray. I consinder it almost useless and can do almost same with hand wand. Another tip (forget what it was) gave only straight pencil jet out to maybe 30' and feared using it. Didn't want to etch pencil marks allover someones wall or eaves.

    What two nozzle specs would likely work in my hand wand to get me 25+ feet up with one being for downstreaming and the other for rinse?. And should I be looking for a few inch wide round pattern at the point I hit the wall?...

    Guess I really want to know if the xjet will create whatever fan or cone size I am after at various distances and yet still draw chemical..

    Any ideas or caculations would be greatly appeciated .. :)

    ps. Do quik connect tips have smoother/more accurate flow then the threaded type tips? seems other folks tips or wand combo put out a way sharper or smoother flow to me.

  8. Posted · Report reply

    Would take that info with a grain of salt though myself and stress the difference between building something and servicing something...

    Far as I ever knew a general contractors license applies to the building industry soley and not for service folks. (Such would apply if yer trying to contract a construction type job out especially if it is subject to inspections under building codes)... Ironically my city business license has about the same amount of #'s as that Sacramento fella on the *** thread calling his a contractors license..A general contractors license I suspect you take a test for and the other you just pay a yearly fee and file a ficticious business statement in a newspaper for to do business under. Running a business which normally includes a license to start will generally allow you to hire and sub to anyone you wish UNLESS your building something far as I ever knew.... correct me if I am wrong though folks as I often am :)...I suspect the $500 applies the same as in any field as in you must report the income for tax purposes and be licensed in general in yer area to do more business. Otherwise yournot really in business and just doing odd jobs and never needed the business license infirst place..

    But hey , When someone figures it out let me know..until then I will be doing a city business license period... :)

  9. Posted · Report reply

    I have 2 vacuums with pump out and they both work unbelievably well.

    One is a duel head NIKRO vacuum that we installed a sump pump in with auto pump out and the other is the one that is sold with vacuboom system.

    I had to modify the filter system a little, other than that, I have had no problems.

    I put a sump pump in the NIKRO that that will pump out solids to either 1/2 or 3/4 inch (cant remember) in diameter. With bulkhead fitting, electrical grommet, antireflux valve and plumbing - whole thing was under 200.00

    Can you get me a closeup pic of them parts?

    It is time for me to finally get to making my recovery unit. So far I have the little giant sump, an autoscrubber (floors) I been parting out, and a portable carpet steam cleaner that I harvested a Flowjet from. Plan to take the 110 vac,hosing, wand,and electrical switches from the steam cleaner and use them on the autoscrubber that was 24 volt battery oppperated (two 12 volt deep cycles). Way I imagine it working is I wheel it over to an area and drop it's sqweegy down and let the vac run constant and the sump pump out whenever it wants to. Can also just run it around on small jobs or problem areas that don't drain if need be although the electric cord and pump out hose would be subversive...

    Is this method backwards to how some you others are doing recovery?. Are someof you running long lengths of suction hose with vacs staying on your rigs or do you always want to bring the equipment to the water? Truck mount steam cleaner would be the ultimate onboard recovery rig,... lol ..(can you say overkill)

  10. Posted · Report reply

    When it comes right down to it nothing but water should go down a drain into our waterways but the fact that they are built into concreted areas of neighborhoods, stores, and what have you is just plain begging for problems of polution runoff. Every entryway into waterways should be filtered at some level and sumped then we would almost not have any worries about what goes down drain. Storm drains themselves should be considered a crime in and of itself. ...

    This case sounds horrific but it is likely way less of an environmental threat then say the all of a sudden flushing of parking lots and streets when the rain comes. It is almost a joke for people to be making a big hoopla about a little acid that probably nuetralized naturally a few hundred yards down the pipe by way of eating grime if we consider natural runoff. (Oil and cleaning chemicals that need breaking down are another matter of course). You swim in muratic adjusted swimming pools (fish don't though :) ) all the time but you don't swim in cleaners like hydroxcide, etc. persay..

    The real polution in this case is the grime the acid ate in the pool and pipes that have no choice but to go out the sound some time or another. The question is how much at any one time..just my two cents..

  11. Posted · Report reply

    All three seal sets were most of the way down into cylinders before I had to use bolts to get head on last half inch...thinkin and prayin they are fine..

    The above troubleshooter by General is hardly readable but I can just barely make out some speak about a piston o ring being one of the possable problems causing such leak.

    Apparently they are under the piston bolts?

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Congrats Sarowe!

    Now that Sarowe is fixed mindifI hijack thread for a second??:)

    Help!.. hey Paul, Douglas, anybody.... changed my packings and I still got a one second drip between crankcase and head up underneith.

    The packing kit did not come with the red plastic rings (long life rings) and but changed them as well being that one was broke. Apparently the inclusion of such makes it an older style. I did not upgrade to new style as not only did the shop say there was no need to but I would have had to replace the whole brass...

    I tell ya, the new packings sure did go on tough and I had to stagger tighten the head bolts down the last half inch or so. I installed the brasses onto the pistons first and then the head that is. Is that correct way? Head went on nice and even and I got smooth pressure again with no hose chatter so am assuming I did not bind them and ruin them in any way...hoping anyway.. So now I wonder what is up.. Is my leak from the big rubber O rings. Tightening the head down would just try to hide the leak so can't imagine that be of issue...Waternot supposed to go back behind brasses right?

    ps/ well no silly.. I was supposed to install packing with proper tools into the head:

    post-2209-137772164962_thumb.jpg

    post-2209-137772164966_thumb.jpg

    post-2209-13777216497_thumb.jpg

  13. Posted · Report reply

    ahh be flexable... job like such scheduled so far out you can probably feel lucky that they sign a contract at all is my first impression. ...:) j/k, really it irks me too when customers attempt this putting off thing. If ya give them an inch they take a mile...In the end, when I get too much of it, I move on or raise their rate with no mercy.

    Use of contract is to acheive a fixed schedule and rate mostly for your bennefit in getting your digs in no matter what. Whatever schedule discussed is what ya hold them to by the contract itself. It needs to come off as such on the paperwork with stated reasoning why there is need for a contract in first place. Such idea should be incorporated into your contract/presentations early on. It needs to clearly show the consession or discount based on frequency of work.(which you aint got much of mind you on this one)

    Think about it most contracts are not needed if there is to be no recurring service so that is really what they are for. Otherwise all terms, legalities, payment arrangements, and work to be done for someone can be on a quote for service and standard terms sheet.

    ... Here's an idea..Just show up and start your job without any confirmations or such. That works too. Sometimes a new person will be on attendance and they will look at ya like what are you doing and you be like ummm I just drove a hundred miles you better know what I am doing here..lol

  14. Posted · Report reply

    John, I tip my trailer back and use a wench that I bought at Walmart and it pulls it right up on the trailer for me. I'm guessing you didn't buy it from ameritech or they would have done it for you. Call me If you need anything

    So their called a skid cause ya slide them? hehe..

    Don't they all pretty much have slots for forklift or pallet jack insertion these days?

    ps/ Kory, one time I forgot to hook my trailer up and one of my mobile machine popped the trailer tounge up so violently that I almost lost body parts. Was purley a redneck photo op with the equipment all high centered, trailer pointed to the sky and I on my arse..LMAO:lgbounces

  17. Posted · Report reply

    I bet if we combine everyones 1% problems we could come up wit a solution for everything wierd that ever happens.

    Well I am unsure now of where it is located but there is or was a very comprehensive if not exhaustive troubleshooter on one of these sites.

    Maybe Delco or Hot Water Wizzard had it...Was a progressive flow type of method of going at both pumps and heat problems. Felt like John Derosa's(sp?) work though as he was putting out info's for awhle that one would only find in a service department. Anyone know what happened to him. I aint seen him involved for awhile now...

  18. Posted · Report reply

    ..had the 1% downstreamer clog too awhile back also and I broke it completely with only a quik dunk in hydrochloric...

    Paul..yer bad luck!!......Now I need packings darnit as I developed the head leak you were talking about just today while in process of rebuilding and spraying off my coil. Took my head off and I got some sqwished and torn seal material. Still got about 2700psi and can feel the loss of kick and there is hose chatter...It's actually been breaking and fixing itself off and on for a month now soit not yer fault, lol.

    All my 1%'s add up to almost a new machine...:lgsick:

  22. Posted · Report reply

    This thread gets my goat as it hits way too close to home a few times..

    Would like some expert advice for Sarowe as well as myself on the following 3 ideas. Wondering if any of them can be discounted or validated as playing a part:

    Is there something about a flow situation versus a no flow situation through a pump that can change it's ability to pressurize or not? This packing thing and what Paul says has me wondering...

    How about the unloader.. Can and does only the flow type unloader gone bad or misadjusted present itself like problem in this thread?

    (think I changed out my cat flow type to a pressure type when if wouldn't let me up under flow)

    A pump turning with proper rpm and horsepower that makes pressure while static one moment then doesn't the next under flow surely must be a situation of more going out via too big a orifice (nozzle,leak) than getting in (starvation)?

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Yes Paul it will be done right and safe. I got pricing today for 1" x 24" ceramic blanket material for inside at $2.50 sq. ft.. Counting a donut for both top and bottom I need 8' or $40 worth...Bottom donut and burner head tube is likely fine so I will have left over maybe for gas tank sheilding.. ( lol, did I mention I turned this Mi-T-M pallet sized skid into a hotsy sized portable?) Actually the top doesn't get any insulation correct?

    Anyways, at them rates I might as well get 1/2" at $2.10 for the outer part if the r value is as good or better than fiberglass. Not sure on that..

    I have seen a couple locals even wrap their outside skin with fiberglass for 3 layers but I aint doin that. Image does count for somethings..hehe

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