Russell Cissell

Neil For wood restoration there is no other way to go, however it sounds like you might be set up for house washing. Don't worry about how wobbly it is. The pressure from a pressure washer is created at the tip. What that means is simply that when you are spraying, your wand/gun connection will be rigid. The reason I like them so much for wood restoration is that you can put a tip directly into the gun. Now when you are up on a ladder you do not have to worry about all that wand getting in your way. Also when doing the detail work of a hand rail your motion is proportionally decreased by the length of the wand. Simply put, you can work much faster and maximize your profitability! You may in fact wear out your gun a little bit faster but you will have more than made up for it on time! Best of Luck Russell

Dave Thank you for your help. I would give Beth a call but I think she is taking a family day at the beach. Please forgive me, there was a time when I could fix my own computer. Do you remember DOS? Next stupid question. How do I determine which version of windows I am running? Thanks!

Dave- This is going to sound bad, feel free to have yourself a good laugh. I have little notes with step by step instructions on how I am supposed to back up each program that I use. I wouldn't know how to do a system back up. This is not exactly a work computer so if everything is lost it is not the end of the world. The information is still on the main system. I will just have them come in and reinstall and restore the information. The problem is that well. . .this is not exactly a work computer! I hate to pay someone come fix it if I don't have to. Thanks

Paul This may be more information than you asked for, but I think it may help some of the contractors out there who shy away from cedar home restoration because they are not sure how to estimate or bid the work. I'm not saying this is the only correct answer. I'm not even saying this is how I would do it, in fact I am often guilty of using the same "WAG" method that Seymore used. What I am going to share is the most accurate method for maximizing your profitability. The first thing you will do it determine the square footage of all of the surfaces you are going to clean. Simply look at each wall and break it down into rectangles and triangles. Use the formula for determining the square footage of each. Length x Height (L x H) for the rectangles and Length x Height x 0.5 (1/2 L x H) for the triangles. Once you have done that for each wall section you will have the total square footage of the home. Remember to measure each surface that you intend to clean. This should include any support columns, soffit and facia and most importantly any wood decks. It is easy to forget to measure a deck causing you to under bid by several hundred dollars. Once you have your total square footage you will want to do a test patch. This will not only help you determine what product to use it will allow you to estimate the dwell time required. Choose a spot that will be most difficult to restore. In this case I would choose a spot on the wall beneath the overhang in image David_Quote-001.jpg. You may want to do more than one test spot. Next you have to determine how many square feet you will be able to restore per hour. Take into consideration any obstacles that may slow you down, time to set up and move ladders or scaffolding and any time you will spend masking. This is difficult to do when you are new so you should always keep track of how long each job takes and what the total square footage was so that you can begin to calculate averages. If I were writing an estimate for this job it would look something like this. Please keep in mind I am estimating the total square footage based on pictures and you one figure of 370' for the perimeter of the house. Total Square Footage 3,600 square feet Production average 300 square feet per hour Total Hours 12 Materials EFC-38 @ 200 sq. feet per gallon 18 gallons (roughly $45.00) Citralic Brightener 18 gallons (roughly $25.00) Now I know that it is going to take 12 hours to do the work and it is going to take about $70.00 worth of materials. Now the final step is to bid the job. There are as many ways to bid a job as there are jobs to bid. I am going to show you three way to bid this same job. First lets look at Seymore's WAG method. Seymore looked at this house AND FROM EXPERIENCE was able to determine it was going to take him a day or a little more. He wants to bring in about $100.00 per hour so call that $1,200.00 then he wants the customer to pay for the materials plus the time used buying and picking up the materials or shipping costs so ($70.00) times 3 to cover the expense of obtaining material is another $210.00. Add a few bucks for gas and bid it at $1,500.00. WAG stands for Wild ^$$ Guess which is exactly what it would be if you tried to use this method on your first job. While this is a fairly safe method for someone who has been in the business for a while it is not for the new guy. If you look at all of the contractors who fail and go out of business, most of them WAGGED themselves out of business. The next method is refered to as Time and Materials we know that you have accurately determined the time required to do the job and you know what the material cost is going to be so you bid it based on those figures. If you decide that the hourly rate you must charge for you to be successful is $100.00 per hour then this Time and Material bid will look the same as Seymores WAG method. (Seymore did not WAG his hourly rate at all, what he guessed about was the total square footage and how long it will take. You can only do this with lots of experience and it is still risky then.) The third method is the Square Footage method. For this method you base the bid on a cost per square foot. For example for an easy strip like this with a failed clear sealer the figure we use is $0.60/Sq Foot. This price includes materials and labor. It is determined not by looking at one or two jobs but the data collected form over a decade of project statistics. If you take the total square footage determined to be 3,600 and multiply that times 0.60 the bid would be $2,160.00. As you see in the first two methods the bid price was very similar. In the Square Foot bid the price is about 30% higher. This last method is by far the most accurate. It will also allow you to maximize your profitability. This is the only method that uses constants. From the time you start to the time you finish, the total square footage will remain the same. When you base the bid on time it is up to you to match the exact time you estimate it is going to take. If you work slower than you estimated you will loose money. At $1,500.00 for just over a days work you probably won't go out of business but if you bring in over $2,100.00 in the same amount of time you will start to separate yourself from the competition and dominate your marketplace. Now there will be contractors out there that will say that $2,100.00 is too much and no one will pay. They will say that in their area there are so many low ballers that they would be lucky to get $1,000.00 for that job. I just hope they take the time to post those thoughts so that we can touch the final stage of getting a job. . .CLOSING! Best of Luck

Terry- You've taken on a job that few homeowners could hope to get right. Most professional restoration contractors will spend a few years on decks and fences learning the process before they move on to cedar siding. It would be impossible for anyone to attempt to cover what you need to know in a single thread in this forum. It would also show negligence however if someone didn't at least step up and give you a few warnings. First when cleaning wood with a pressure washer you should never go over about 1,200 psi. Next when sanding wood with a high speed sander like a belt sander you are creating heat that will draw the natural sugars of the wood to the surface. This will have an adverse effect on the penetration of your finish. If you want your surface to look even you will have to follow all of the substrate preparation steps. Staining is not like painting. It is not enough to have the surface clean. You might think about hiring a professional for this one. If you would like, give me a call at 1-866-536-7393 or 636-288-8512 and I help you as much as possible or direct you to a pro in your area. Best of Luck Russell

Paraffinic is a term used more to describe a type of molecule. A paraffinic oil is one where hydrogen and carbon atoms are bonded in a long, linear fashion. A paraffinic molecule resembles a stretched out chain. If you buy a straight paraffinic oil it is most likely going to be a petroleum derivative because this is by far the simplest and least expensive method of producing the molecule. Without giving away the farm I will just say, it is not the only way.

Sturgisjr- Do not use BOOST with F-18. Do not mix any of ESI's products with or use in cobination with any other products. The only exception to this is that you can use any acidic neutralizer after HD-80. We develope very specific formulations here and they are not cross compatible with many other cleaners both on the shelf and on the web. Feel free to call me direct any time you have a question or would like help with something. Remember, the most important thing is SAFETY. Safety before profit every time! Best of Luck Russell

I was about to have a heart attack myself! I love this job! Tony, I would like to talk with you about this experience when you've got a min. There were a couple of things there that I would like more details on. We have found that the dwell time for laytex can be very very long as much as 30 min per layer (or color change). If you give it the dwell time. . .eventually. . .it will work. From what we have found in lab tests it would be slightly easier to just convince people to stop putting laytex type products on exterior wood. As for most other finishes HD-80 with the liquid BOOST seems to speed the process up quite a bit. I appreciate your product review! Best of Luck Russell

Ken- The tint system is in final stages. As soon as we have approval on labeling and packaging it will be ready for release. If you want to give me a call, I can give you more detailed information. Shane- The wood does not have to be wet for the Wood-Tux application. It works fantastic on dry wood with an average spread rate of 200 square feet per gallon on aged cedar. The real advantage is being able to apply after a rain and keep your schedule on track and your cash flow straight. I think this formulation is really going to help those contractors in the North East and Pacific North West where it is difficult to get wood moisture content below 20% before mildew sets in. Best of Luck Russell

And yes yes yes, lower pressure will always cause less furring! Here is the magic formula! Chemical Stregnth + Easy Rinse = no sanding Proper Dwell time

Great post! There is a very specific reason for this. When you are removing a finish, (or cleaning in general) you are the mechanical force in the equation. Rather than get overly technical I will give you an analogy that should be pretty simple to understand. Imagine the finish that you have to remove is represented by a mountain of rock. Your job is to move that mountain. Now you can equate GPM (gallons per minute) to your hauling equipment. 2.0 gpm = hand basket 4.0 gpm = Dump Truck I can tell by the tip sizes you are working with that you have yourself a nice dump truck there. It's not the pressure that does the work, it's the flow. The more flow you have the more material you will be able to move. When you lower your pressure with a larger tip you are allowing your dump truck to pick up a greater load. If you think of each drop of water as a truck then more drops are getting to the pile. Now you can equate PSI (lb/sq inch of pressure) to speed/force. You are using chemicals to break down the mountain so you don't need force. If you increase the speed of the water it is like telling all of your drivers to drive really fast and get out of the way because here comes more trucks! That is not how mountains are moved. We all know time is money but in the case of finish removal, slow and steady wins the day. The lower the pressure you are able to use the more material you can move at a time. Lower pressures also prevent a lot of sanding. The key is to allow the chemicals to dwell long enough that you can rinse away the finish with these lower pressures. If you ever find yourself in a hurry, I bet you can trace it back to not charging enough. If you know it is going to take a while and you charge accordingly what better job is there in the world then sitting back supervising your soap? I hope this helps Best of Luck Russell

Philip- We talk to a lot of contractors here and I am hearing the same thing more and more everyday. The wood restoration industry is growing at a very rapid rate. Because of the low up front investment the industry will always be attractive to those looking to make a quick buck. In addition there are a lot of guys that really want to run a successful, legitimate company but they simply don't know how to establish a good rate structure. Many of these companies will choose to undercut the competition and try to survive on volume. I am currently working on an article that deals with this issue in more detail for now, my best advise is, hang in there! You know what you have to charge to be successful. Stick to your guns and go after the customers who are willing to move on quality rather than price. Change your marketing so you are reaching out to the higher end markets. Move away from the pack! If you must advertise in the same places that your competition does make sure you stand out! Remember, advertising doesn't always mean offering a special price. Every ad you place will return a certain response. If you advertise specials you will attract people who want to save money. Imagine if there are three companies each advertising the same service and they compete (20% off, 30% off, whole house $5.00) then there is your add: Nice ad explaining the importance of the service why you are a good choice and then when they look for your coupon they find a slogan instead. . ."If you want to be sure, you're gonna pay more!" I can guarantee the people that call you are not going to be bargain hunters! You will do less bids, but close a higher percentage at a premium. Keep up the good work because it's guys like you that fuel the industry rather than drag it down! Best of Luck! Russell Cissell

If you are able to knock the fur of with a brush in such a way that it does not compromise the integrity of the finish you might be all right. If you find yourself sanding, you will most certainly need to do some touch up sealing. Depending on the finish of the product being used this should not be too difficult if you rag the product on and avoid over lapping areas that were not sanded.

Mike- I'm going to have a little fun with you! Hopefully this will help someone not make the mistakes that I've made and it sounds like you are about to. Agreeing to do work for a friend (goof 1) most often leads to burger flipping wages at best. Thinking that your friend will be impressed even with the most excellent result (goof 2) most often results in hurt feeling to match your lack of compensation. Doing a job cheap (goof 3) on the promise of future work is a loosing proposition unless you can charge double your going rate when you do get hired. Agreeing to provide maintenance for a deck that you didn't do start-to-finish (goof 4) will land you responsible for the quality of someone else's work. If you are going to maintain this deck long term the best thing you can do for your friend is to charge him a reasonable price that will compensate you fairly and make you feel good about doing the work. Take charge of the job and strip it completely, remove all the mold and mildew and apply the same finish that you intend to use on maintenance jobs. Impress your friend with your professional business manner. If he finds this unreasonable, politely offer him some pointers and wish him good luck. Surface preparation is the single most important factor in the longevity of any finish. If you try to maintain what is there now, you are going to be fighting and uphill battle and will probably never be completely happy with the results. Wood restoration and preservation is a system of steps coming together to produce a predictable result. Cutting corners is never the answer if quality results are your goal. For the record, I have made each of these mistakes myself more than once! That doesn't mean you have to! Best of Luck Russell

This past week we were called on to remove 30 years worth of paint from a screened in porch floor. It was estimated by the owner that there was at least 15 to 20 coats of paint on this concrete floor. When asked what types of paint had been used he could only say the last few applications were an exterior floor paint he thought came from Sherwin Williams. The surface color was gray. Looking at the area where they had attempted to remove the paint with a zero degree tip on a hot water unit you could also see darker shades of gray, blue and even what looked like a red primer. We laid out a test patch that was 4'X4' We mixed HD-80 at 2/3 cup per gallon and added Boost at 10%. We treated the test area with this solution and noted the time. The first scratch test was done after a 15 min dwell. There was no change in the surface and scratching produced no result. We continued to scratch the surface ever 15 min. On the third test at 45 min the surface layer began to liquefy and there was some movement below the surface. At the one hour mark the different layers began to blend together. 15 min later a light scratch revealed clean concrete in several spots on the test area. The actual dwell time for the project was scheduled for 2 hours. Product was applied to the entire floor area and was kept wet by misting every 30 min. Brushes were used to aid in the breakdown of the many layers. A light scrubbing was initiated each cycle just before additional misting. After the dwell cycle the floor was cleaned with cold water at about 900 psi. The result was better than 90% removal. The areas near the interior painted wall and around the doorway thresholds retained the most paint. It was determined this was due to less abundant product application in those areas coupled with less brushing. In all just over 4 gallons was used to treat this 1,200 square foot area. Total material cost was below $20.00 The entire job took just over 3.5 hours start to finish (not including the initial test patch) Due to the experimental nature of this project the customer was only required to provide lunch for the crew. Had this job been bid out the price would have been set at $600.00 - $800.00 dollars. The key to the success of this job was the very extensive dwell time. At first it seemed that the results were to be unfavorable however the extensive dwell time enabled the paint to be rinsed away with very low pressure. On a personal note, I would not want to make a living doing this type of project however if the customer is persistent and the money is right I know that it can be done. I hope this helps! Best of Luck Russell Cissell 1-866-536-7393 E-mail: imrcc1@aol.com

Barry- Wood-Tux WET was designed specifically for getting professional contractors through the rainy season. This formulation was created for use in those areas where it is hard to get the wood dry before mold and mildew begin to set in. Unlike water based sealers that are prone to cracking and peeling, Wood-Tux WET dives through the water deep into the wood. Once inside it reacts with the wood and forces excess water out. Wood-Tux WET can be applied to very wet wood, in fact as long as it is not raining when you put it on you will achieve beautiful lasting results. The leading problem we have heard contractors report over the years is having too much wood cleaned in the spring without enough dry time to finish the job (and collect the money)! Wood-Tux WET is going to help keep you on schedule and allow you to maximize your profitability. Those contractors who started using Wood-Tux WET have already begun to dominate their marketplace by finishing more work with better results than their competition. If you have any questions about Wood-Tux WET, feel free to call me for more information. Best of Luck Russell Cissell Extreme Solutions, Inc. 1-866-536-7393 E-mail: imrcc1@aol.com

James- Used the right way bleach can certainly help to remove dead wood by breaking the bond that the lignin has with the decayed cellulose. The key as you point out is in the "control." It has to be a matter of correct concentration and correct duration. Bleach can also aid in the removal of mold and mildew. My fear is always this. . When used incorrectly and at the wrong concentration bleach can quickly damage the good wood below the decayed surface. I have heard contractors say the best way to restore a deck is with 15% bleach. It just makes me cringe. Best of Luck Russell So what about that bird?

You have answered your own question. The results you see in Beth's work is the result of the difference in our product line vs. some of the others. My intentions are to promote ESI's products because I know how they are formulated and I believe in their quality. The goal is to help you be as successful as possible so that you will continue to use the products long term. Until you have seen the difference for yourself all I can do is try to educate you as to why they are better suited for wood restoration. The only thing that I can say at this point is that if you use the same products as Beth and Rod, in the same professional manner it stands to reason that you can expect the same quality results. If you still have any doubts, feel free to give me a call. If you don't like any of the ESI wood restoration products for any reason you will receive a full refund of the purchase price. ESI is a 100% satisfaction guarantee. Best of Luck Russell Cissell

James- It is great that we've got contractors like you who are willing to help. I am afraid on this one you've got your facts wrong. I would agree that you can use bleach and complete a job and get paid for it, which is in a sense getting the same result. But saying that all chemicals are the same is quite inaccurate. To compare our EFC-38 with any other product on the market is like saying that a hammer is basically the same as a screwdriver. When you give information and you are not informed it is not helpful to anyone. If all chemicals are the same why wouldn't you use a caustic stripper to brush your teeth? They've both got Sodium Hydroxide in them, should do the same thing right? If all chemicals are the same then why is it they choose Sodium Hypochlorite (bleach) to break down wood into pulp in the manufacture of paper? Why not use something much safer and less expensive if all chemicals do the same thing? I've been reading your posts for a long time and honestly respect almost everything you have to say. In this case your opinion is simply inaccurate and misleading. When you say bleach worked better what you mean is it worked better for you. If you were able to ask the wood for it's opinion I can assure you that it would disagree. Best of Luck Russell Off subject. . .What kind of bird is that sitting on your head?

DeGraffreed As a rule ESI doesn't send out samples. If you are a die hard try before you buy shopper give me a call and I can get something worked out. The good news is we have a distributor in the Atlanta area. SunBrite now carries our entire wood restoration line. Give Tracy or Pete a call and I'm sure they will take care of you. I once wrote a small article for Cleaner Times Magazine titled something like The Composition of Wood. I just searched my system and I don't seem to have it anymore. The short of it is . . . Wood is composed of Cellulose, Hemicellulose, Lignin and extractives. The structure of wood comes from the long tube shaped cells that are made up of cellulose and hemicellulose, Lignin is the tough material that holds the cells together. This structure is fundementally the same for all trees. The ratio of lignin to cellulose primarily accounts for the difference in woods density, weight and porosity. The term "extractives" is used to group the other matter that makes up wood. This includes things like fats, oils and sugars. These extractives account for the scent, color and moisture content of the wood. That being said, our job as restoration/preservation professionals is to protect the wood. If you use chemicals that "burn" away the naturally occurring oils, fat's and sugars you are causing damage to the wood. Then you are going to turn around and pay for a product that will replace those crucial extractives that you've "burned out." If you treat the wood restoration process as a system, not only will you achieve better results you will also maximize your profitability. If you are interested in learning more, give me a call. I am always happy to help contractors understand and appreciate wood so you can make the most of your restoration efforts. Best of Luck! Russell Cissell Extreme Solutions, Inc. 1-866-536-7393 imrcc1@aol.com

I've been using pressure washers for over 15 years. I've owned and operated hot water, cold water, high pressure, UHP, belt and direct drive. I've been trained and certified by Honda engines and Cat pumps. I've been through the Devilbiss training program and was certified to do their warranty work which in St. Louis covers the units that Lowes sells. My question is this. . .Why exactly does everyone believe that the belt driven machines are so much better? As an owner operator I prefer direct drive. Speaking from the warranty and repair side of things a belt driven machine is more expensive all the way around. What am I missing?

DeGraffreed- The key to the vibrant results you see in most of Beth and Rods jobs is in the chemistry. Simply put not all restoration products are equal. Just because you might find one or two of the same ingredients listed on an MSDS does not mean what you are using is the same. Keep in mind only hazardous ingredients are required to be listed on an MSDS. The goal of a wood restoration professional is to protect and preserve the wood. You should use products that are specifically designed with that goal in mind. There is more to restoration than taking away what is bad. You have to preserve what is good. The natural beauty of wood comes form the fats, oils and sugars that are naturally present. It is the balance of these extractives that gives each species it's characteristic color. The results that Beth and Rod get from EFC-38, HD-80 and Citralic are the result of matched chemistry. Each formulation was designed to do it's job without unnecessary damage to the wood. The reason that the pictures you see after they wash and brighten look so good is because they are able to clean or strip while preserving the natural sugars and oils in the wood. If the wood turns whitish it is because you have depleted the natural oils or sugars. Not only is this bad for the wood, it will require more stain to provide equal protection. There are many products that claim to be as good as the ESI wood restoration line but the simple fact is, ESI developed these products specifically for wood restoration. Each was designed to help you do the best restoration job possible and to separate yourself from the competition. Best of Luck Russell Cissell Extreme Solutions, Inc. 1-866-536-7393

New Coatings VOC Limits Go Into Effect in Mid-Atlantic WASHINGTON—New volatile organic compound (VOC) limits on architectural and industrial maintenance coatings were scheduled to go into effect Jan. 1 in six Mid-Atlantic states and the District of Columbia. Lower-VOC coatings over the next several months will replace inventories manufactured prior to Jan. 1, which are exempt from the new limits due to a “sell-through” provision in the regulations. The region, one of the most densely populated and developed parts of the country, represents a significant market for architectural coatings. The six states, members of the 12-state Ozone Transport Commission (OTC), are imposing VOC limits as low as 100 grams per liter, effective Jan. 1. The states are New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Maryland, and Washington D.C., with several counties in northern Virginia also joining the group in enacting a VOC rule. Some of the OTC’s six other member states in New England are expected to approve VOC rules, but none were finalized in time to go into effect Jan. 1. The National Paint & Coatings Association (NPCA), Washington, D.C., is pursuing legal challenges to the new VOC rules in Delaware and New York, with lawsuits that contend the rules present unreasonable technological requirements that could adversely affect coatings performance. A court in Delaware has ruled against the association’s challenge, but the NPCA has appealed to the state’s Supreme Court, where a decision is pending. Legal challenges to the new VOC rules also are being pursued by The Sherwin-Williams Co. Key VOC limits imposed in the six Mid-Atlantic states on Jan. 1 include 100 grams per liter (g/L) for flat interior and exterior coatings, 150 g/L for non-flat interior and exterior coatings, 250 g/L for non-flat high-gloss coatings, 340 g/L for industrial maintenance coatings, and 200 g/L for primers and undercoaters. A range of VOC limits will go into effect for nearly 50 other categories of coatings. Among the limits viewed as problematic is a 250 g/L standard for clear, semitransparent and opaque stains, industry representatives said. Coatings manufacturers said they were prepared for the compliance challenge posed by the new regulations, but cautioned that coatings users will see a difference in cost. “They (coatings products) will be more expensive as a result of increased R&D costs,” said John Schutz, president and CEO of coatings and wood-finishes manufacturer Samuel Cabot Inc., Newburyport, MA. Schutz, current chairman of the NPCA’s Architectural Coatings Committee, said customers will begin to see the effects of higher prices as inventories of pre-Jan. 1 products are depleted. Shutz said that while coatings producers have succeeded in formulating products that will comply with the VOC limits and meet performance demands, coatings users should read product directions carefully to ensure successful application. He also said some coatings makers are likely to abandon certain product lines in response to the new regulations. Schutz said the industry has made great strides in producing water-based coatings that equal or exceed the performance of solvent-based products. Peter Flood, chairman and CEO of coatings manufacturer The Flood Co. and chairman of an NPCA policy committee that has been formed to address a growing array of architectural-coatings VOC issues, agreed that coatings suppliers will be able to offer products that comply with the new VOC rule in the Mid-Atlantic states. But he said some concern exists in the industry that regulations will go further, possibly duplicating the technology-forcing VOC limits adopted by California regulators. Flood also echoed Shutz’s comments that coatings users will see higher prices, and also agreed that some coatings manufacturers will discontinue certain product lines rather than incur hefty financial outlays for reformulation. The NPCA is recommending that companies and other interested parties obtain copies of regulations enacted by each of the states that have enacted rules, due to differences in the provisions. More information also is available from the Ozone Transport Commission. The commission’s website is located at www.otcair.org. AIA-NIBS Agreement Forges Start to a Network of Building-enclosure Councils The first local chapter of a planned network of building-enclosure councils was launched recently in Pittsburgh following an agreement announced by the leadership of the American Institute of Architects (AIA) and the National Institute of Building Sciences (NIBS).

Extreme Solutions, Inc. is pleased to announce the newest addition to our distribution network! :sunshine: SunBrite Supply located near Atlanta, GA is coming on board in a BIG way! Judging by the size of their initial stocking order these guys mean business. Sunbrite has a reputation of excellence in the industry with a passion for customer service. The team at SunBrite is well qualified to assist you in all of your wood restoration needs. Sunbrite is prepared to take orders from local contractors as well as those operating nationwide. Their educated staff is ready to take your orders by phone, fax, e-mail and soon you will be able to purchase products direct from their online store. If you would like information on: HD-80 Heavy Duty Stripper EFC-38 Cleaner/Stripper Citralic Brightener/Neutralizer Wood-Tux WET or if you would just like to get aquatinted with the team at SunBrite Supply give them a call today at 770-277-6363 or drop them an e-mail at Info@sunbritesupply.com SunBrite Supply is located at: 361 Pike Boulevard, Suite 240 Lawrenceville, Georgia 30045 and on the web at: www.sunbritesupply.com Please help us welcome SunBrite Supply to the family and give them a call or shoot them an e-mail. Thank you and as always. . . Best of Luck Russell Cissell Extreme Solutions, inc. 1-866-536-7393 www.esproducts.net

In addition to ordering HD-80, EFC-38, Citralic Brightener/Neutralizer and Wood Tux Wet deep penetrating stain direct from ESI you can now order product from Sunbrite Supply. Sunbrite Supply has a reputation for excellence in customer service. Sunbrite is located just outside of Atlanta, GA. They are a full service operation offering equipment, chemicals, supplies and SERVICE. Sunbrite caters to contractors both locally and nation wide. Sunbrite Supply has a well trained staff who can help you with all of your wood restoration needs. Sunbrite has a HEALTHY inventory of the entire ESI Wood Restoration Product Suite and the staff is eager to help you start maximizing your profitability today! If you've never had the chance to try ESI's products this is a great chance to meet the team at Sunbrite and discover why ESI's products truly allow you to Separate Yourself From the Competition! You can contact Sunbrite at 770-277-6363 Or by e-mail at Info@sunbritesupply.com Best of Luck Russell Cissell Extreme Solutions, Inc 1-866-536-7393 www.esproducts.net