Beth n Rod

I agree with Ev, but will say that I would suggest using the HD on the brand new wood at 2-3 oz per gal, not as high as half strenth. Where you are stripping you should go a little stronger. Make sure to neutralize everything so it brightens nicely throughout. If you are sticking sealers you can buy in a store, I would suggest Cabot or Sikkens SRD (not DEK) as a first choice and Wolman F&P as a backup if you can't find either of the first two. Beth

This is going to be a FANTASTIC site. I know we'll be using it! How's the response been Russ? What else can you share with us? Beth :groovy2:

Crystal is like any other clear where greying is concerned. There is no pigment, therefore it will grey faster. If they don't want greying then they should go with the honey gold. Beth

I'm with Everett. People hire an expert for a reason. If they just want to make it worse they can do it all by themselves. They're already on track for that. We would walk from that one. It's your reputation. Also, how do you know they won't turn around and come after you for NOT doing it right? You don't know that either really..... Beth

Matt, Glad you shared with us. Your post isn't going anywhere. We look forward to more of them from you. :groovy: Beth :groovy2:

Last year here in Maryland we had 5 MONTHS of April!!! The temps were often low and the days were filled with rain. In 30 days we had 1 day of sun! This year is a little better....so far... send the rain west where they suffer from drought. Beth

What types of wood have you worked with? What have been your biggest challenges about working with them? Vote for as many species as you need to, and share your restoration thoughts about the differences here. Beth:cool:

Huge thumbtacks? Got a pic? Also try a bucket of degreaser with a rag in int. Makes clean up a breeze. Beth

C&T, See if you can find someone in your area to show you how they wash houses. Sometimes it can be as simple as missing a small step. The x-jet is a wonderful application tool....notice I say APPLICATION. It will throw the soap, but you need to use a good mixture and have it go up there at the right concentration for what you're cleaning. I have questions after reading the post: 1. what what the house, vinyl, aluminum, brick or what? 2. what specifically were you trying to remove, were you just after the mold mildew and algae, or after alot of oxidation (that does take longer - oxidation does) or what? 3. cold water, hot, warm what? 4. How long did you let it dwell? 5. what did you apply? Give us a little more info so we can help you. And yank that x-jet out of the trash. You may yet find you need it. Beth

Classic~ Very well put. Beth :groovy3:

jon, do a test patch before you bid it...if its paint, wait till the hd-80 booster comes out on the market (shouldnt be too much longer), other wise, if its a solid stain, apply hd-80 at 6-7 oz/gal and keep wet. dwell about 30-40 minutes or until you see the product easily removed by just doing a scratch test with the end of your spray wand. Mine and Beth's nextel #'s are in the signature line below. Need field tech support...Call:-) :seeya: Rod~

Use either Gauntlet gloves that are rated for causitcs. Nitril is rated for use with caustic materials like HD-80. Keep a gallon of vinegar on hand for quick neutralization if it gets on you, the acid in vinegar is friendly to humans but just smells bad. My crews are outfitted with PVC bib overalls and jackets, saftey glasses or face sheilds, rubber boots (they are required to provide them) and p-95 organic vapor masks for respiratory protection. (same ones used by painters) Wet down all plants and vegetation in the area you will be applying HD-80 or any cleaner before you apply. HD-80 will go through plastic, believe me, been there done that. Sodium Hydroxide is the most caustic substance known and tops out the pH scale at 14. HD-80 can be applied to a wet surface if it is too hot and would dry quickly otherwise. You can use it to clean a deck on days of precipitation as long as you dont have a constant down pour. Solo sprayers will work fine for a while, but will soon become brittle due to the exposure to the caustic in HD-80, try a sprayer with viton seals and use a bucket to keep HD-80 in while you are spryiing through a long hose 75'and wand. Saves your back. Rod~

Delco has some I believe. Also, check with your local rental stores or supply stores. Rod

try a small test patch using muratic acid at about 10:1 (water:acid) it will fizz and eat away at the spots, but keep some water at hand to rinse when its ready...especially if it gets on just the pavers. Use a stiff bristle brush to aggitate the spots where it is stubborn. Reapply as the situation necessitates. Rinse well when done. Hope it helps, Rod~

Safety is a huge issue....... This is a very important thread! Travis I hope you're alright with no ill long term effects. Thank you for sharing your story! Beth

Paul, I for one never took any of your comments as a product slam. I also encourage you to continue to respond to ANY post made by ANYONE on this BBS. Your posts are insightful, educational, and contain extrememly helpful information. I can't begin to tell you how many people have expressed appreciation for all of your posts. Beth

Wood Tux will do fine at 15%. Beth

Thanks. There is a positive in all of this. We hope to see all of you on the concrete chat on the 1st. There should be wonderful information there. Beth

Nice idea Tony. I like that!

I spoke to Jay today. He's logged in to check the thread to see if he needs to address anything. I'm sure he will post as time allows him to do so. I asked him specifically to review the content in the various posts for accuracy. Jay is an expert in this field and we feel certain that this should end any confusion there may be regarding the use of his products on various substrates. Rob, please post a pic. It would help to assess the situation, and we could all learn from it. Paul, your posts are always very informative, and packed with knowledge. The generous spirit in which you share what you have learned is to be commended. I believe I speak for many when I say don't stop sharing. Sometimes the answer to a scenario is not clear, and the problem can be difficult to diagnose. The other day Paul asked us for opinions in a wood care thread, and a variety of responses was given by some very experienced folks. More than one answer could have been correct depending on the the circumstances, which were unknown. The point is, the answers were well thought out and intelligent and had valid points of discussion behind them. Everything is not always in black and white. Even the best contractor can not go out onto a job site and have the answer all the time, but if he or she knows what to do to get the answer, how to test, where to turn, it's easy to learn the answer and then you can proceed. Beth & Rod

Appliance stores always add them to their cardboard dumpsters. Beth p.s. we plastic up anyway, since if you don't manage to see something right away it can harden and be a royal pain in the rump to remove... better safe....than scrubbing and mumbling under your breath...

The chat is scheduled for Tuesday, June 1st, 8pm EST. Join Jay from V-Seal for a special chat on concrete and various substrates and their particular requirements. Thanks go out to Jay for hosting this special event! Beth & Rod

When you are done sealing, go to the spigot an use Fast Orange on thour arms and legs. To get sealer out of your hair, lather, rinse, repeat, and then follow with alot of conditioner. Let it sit a long time. Wash again if needed. Also the conditioner when applied to the skin helps to loosen up the sealer. Beth

WOW. It has been our policy to not bash or post inflamatory remarks. I am not going to edit anyone's posts. I think each of you knows how you feel about what you have said and is equally capable of apologizing if you feel it is necessary. However, I will say this.... we support our moderators. While we might have preferred the thread to have taken a different direction, I will go ahead and say there have been a number of people in the past at various times who have contacted me via phone, email, PM, or moderator forum regarding issues online and what appears to be inaccurate information. Members of this site come here to learn and grow and to find accurate information. We all try very hard here to post accurate information. Rob- When V-Seal is overapplied to aggragate it can leave a white milky residue that has a powdery look. If this is the case you need only wash it off. This is based upon our own experience with the same product, on the same substrate. I have also written to Jay at V-Seal and enclosed a link to this thread, asking him to respond to all, so that he as the manufacturer will have a chance to discuss the proper use of his product. I can also schedule a chat on sealing various substrates if that would be of benefit. Jay has offered this in the past. Best I stop here. Beth

Hey Alan! Happy B-Day! Beth & Rod