Beth n Rod

You have literally created the nightmares of flatwork pressure washing.
While I am not a specialist in this, there are various cleaners that will help.
This is the site to start: https://www.diedrichtechnologies.com/

Rod & Beth

I would like to see it Charltonmccullough098@gmail.com 

I agree, you can go right over it and it should be just fine.

Not much available for Silicone.
Try this site: https://www.diedrichtechnologies.com/
Rod & Beth

 

To Handle tough stains on your concrete garage floor and pavers, consider seeking help from a service with expertise in addressing stubborn stains. They can assess and address your specific cleaning needs effictively.
 

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Someone used silicone caulk to glue lattice all over this brick building years ago and the new owner wants it removed.

Razor blades only takes off the top layer. Can't blow it off with a pressure washer without getting into the brick. Acetone, mineral spirits, wire brushes and even a propane torch just makes a mess of it.

I'm at a loss. Is there a chemical that will break the bond? Anyone have any ideas on how to get this off?

Good Afternoon Everyone
 
This is Ray from Aqua Clean Power Washing LLC in New Jersey. We offer roof cleaning and power washing in Dumont NJ.
 
I wanted to share the third video from this three day Tony Robins seminar. Each video is 3 hours long. I hope you enjoy the videos.
 
(516) Time to Rise Summit Day 3: 7 Steps: Your Path to an Extraordinary Life - YouTube
 
To learn more about power washing in Dumont NJ please visit www.gentlepowerwashing.com/power-washing-Dumont-nj/
 
To learn more about soft wash roof cleaning in Dumont NJ please visit www.gentlepowerwashing.com/roof-cleaning-Dumont-nj/

To learn more about house washing in Dumont NJ please visit www.gentlepowerwashing.com/house-washing-Dumont-nj/

hi all, I'm looking to expand my pressure washing, learn about soft-washing, and buy a better surface attachment than the 14" briggs and stratton plastic 3,400 psi-rated which broke on me after about 30 hours of use with a 3,100 psi machine, and the second one broke in about 3 hours with a 3,400 psi machine. It breaks in the center where the main assembly connects to the rim body using only screws into plastic nipples. I didn't abuse it or anything. I have to buy a 3rd one now just to finish the project (concrete patio and walkways) and I'll keep it as back-up. 
I'm hoping to find a surface cleaner that is lightweight but durable and serviceable with parts available if necessary. I know to clean and grease the assembly now and then. MAybe somethign under $250?
 
My current set-up is a consumer grade 3,400 psi cold water westinghouse, non-psi-adjustable, regular guns/wands, the cheap surface attachment, and a ~25 foot ~$350 aluminum telescopic wand. 
 
I know it's a no-no but I've done a lot of vinyl siding with just cold water, no detergent and a 15 degree yellow nozzle. I find detergent unnecessary vs just water pressure, but I know this can put lines etc in siding vs soft-washing but I've never seen it happen. To me the most important is the follow-up preventive chemical, I often use Wet and Forget afterwards which prevents mildew etc for some months/years depending on the site conditions (shade, north-facing side, ground composition of mulch/dirt/trees etc vs just open unshaded area with patios etc). 
 
Using only water pressure takes a while, can damage siding (I never spray anything wood or anything like that I just use the Wet and Forget, same with roofs of course I use Spray and Forget meant for Roofs but many barely seem affected and need somewhat costly constant follow-up treatments and some are so mossy I suggest just tucking zinc/copper flashing under the roof ridge to potentially solve the problem long term, I don't scrape moss balls off asphalt shingles etc either which can damage them. And I avoid all windows and sometimes I manually clean them with just windex and rags. 
 
Where I'm at is high-priced labor, cost of living is as high as anywhere in the country, so the higher prices for labor/total project are on the higher side of national averages when googling such things but I still see signs here and there on telephone poles etc "pressure washing starting at only $100, includes detergent", which likely is for small single story houses and doesn't include any walkways or roofs etc. 
Doing a 2 story including walkways (I don't do asphalt driveways unless I'm about to reseal them because the surface cleaner can chip them etc) can take a while and one would think it'd only cost $200, but it takes too long to use just water to do it for $200 plus the additional cost of Wet and Forget and I want to keep the price reasonable. 
 
I haven't looked into it but most of the soft-wash videos seems like a 2 story house can be done in only about an hour, it's basically not even high pressure, it's basically a super soaker or garden hose spraying chemicals and then rinsing, I prefer to keep it clean without using chemicals but usually Wet and Forget is necessary afterwards anyway which will also eventually leach down into the landscape etc - it is what it is, if you want the house not to look all mildew and dirty, then chemicals are necessary unless you want to powerwash it w/ only water like twice a year and potentially damage the vinyl. 
Plus the cost of Wet and Forget is pricey, like three $40 concentrated bottles per 2-story house plus a $30 bottle of roof cleaner is another ~$150 plus the labor spraying from a 3 gallon tank pump sprayer, so my price is going to be too high vs if the soft-wash detergent also prevents future mildew. 
Again, I haven't looked into soft washing tutorials but am thinking I need a new pressure washer that can adjust to lower psi?
 
Looking for suggestions on a new surface attachment, new psi-adjustable machine, and good tutorials for soft washing. thanks. 
 
 

no resposne to this

Thought I had this all figured out, did a test patch (under stairs, wont be visible) and I'm not thrilled. Back to the drawing board?

I'm trying to achieve a nice leathery-brown marbled floor (see first picture attached). Love the high gloss wet look, however I'm leery about that high gloss finish wearing away fairly quickly (quicker than a permeable sealer would?), especially with acrylic top coats. Hobby work and project garage with vehicle storage, in the northeast so salt is used (sparingly on our roads it seems...). Right now the garage is completely empty, now is the time - I'd like to do it once and do it right.

I decided on direct colors acid stain - I really like the unique and interesting results an acid stain (should, typically) produce. After doing tons of research I thought I had decided on ghostsheild as a protectant, most likely 8510 but also wanted to try a little bit of their 5505 for fun.
acid staining san antonio
I did my sample, need to perfect my acid stain process a bit but I think I've got that under control now - put 8510 over half and 5505 over the other half of the sample patch. I thought 8510 was going to be the answer. But it doesnt deepen the stain colors at all, it just looks BLAH (which I knew... but just didnt comprehend how it would effect the final product). I really like the way the floor looks with the 5505, that wet deep color glossy look - but its my understanding that 5505 is an acrylic coating and it sounds like it wont hold up well to our uses (??).
I set an empty grill propane 20 pound grill tank on the test surface, dragged it a bit, and there was noticeable scratching/discoloring.

So, what do i do?
8510 with a wax over it to help deepen the color?
5505 and baby the floor hope it'll hold up well? If its not going to hold up I dont want to bother.
Or investigate other options: How about some of these Polyuria or polyspartic? Not sure why I didnt focus on these to begin with?

VOC's and cure time are not important, want to do it right. And while cost is always important, I'd rather pay more now and do it right.

Help!!

no response to this

Has anyone or known of anyone whom has Acid Stained their concrete flooring? We are seriously considering this in our bottom story. From our research it appears this is a very long lasting, rather inexpensive to do flooring; with what appears as beautiful results. We will probadly have to travel all the way to Springfield MO to purchase this stain; unless someone knows of a place it is sold in North Arkansas. We looked at Lowes and Home Depot and they do not carry the Acid Stain just the topical stain. IF you have done this WHAT are the Do's and Don'ts that we may advoid. And WHAT were your results? Are you pleased with them? Thanks...  acid staining raleigh

It seems that my golf cart batteries dripped onto a buddy's new concrete while my cart was parked there over the course of a few weeks while I rebuilt my storage room. The stains are orang/tan and I do have a couple of places where the concrete blistered. Not concerned much about the blistered area as I will skim it with some patch. The solution to the stain problem and how, please? What will remove the stain or bleach the concrete back to the normal off-white color?  concrete sealing jacksonville

hey mate ...
hypochlorite +- 1 %
blended surfactants 7.125%
balance 100% water
any suggestions on what blended surfactants i should use?
apparently this mixture is good for mould on canvas ect
cheers kevin 

Rod & Beth,
Thanks for the quick response! Still pretty new at this stuff.  So you are recommending the R.A.D. product over the WD-80?  Are there any tricks to cut down on wood furring?  Especially on log sided homes? 
Thanks,
Collin 

I will try to reach you. It's a service I've been looking for. Thanks.

Hi guys, I have been asked by a customer to lay ceramic floor tiles have always told people not to use ceramic on floor as it can break easy. But she is no budging on the tiles. It's only a small area 3x2 m2 in a kitchen. Anyone have any tips or advise on laying ceramics on floors as I've never done it. I haven't seen the substrate yet but guessing its concrete. Thanks in advance.

Hey Rod,
Would you say this is still your go to stripper?
What booster are you adding for acrylics? Where do you source the 633ADD? 
Thanks,
Collin 

no response

Thanks for all the answers in this thread. It was useful to read it to me as a beginner

It is a nice thread, thank you. I found a lot of useful information here about this business. I have not begun yet, and I am doing my research now that will allow me to have a smooth start in this industry. Sometimes it’s better to learn a little more than to start and have problems.

Such great information... thanks for sharing

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2009/03/03/stalkers-turn-to-cell-pho_n_171555.html
 
Many of us have gotten UNWANTED and UNSOLICITED text that never end, text after text of hateful, unprofessional conduct and vile, viciously aimed content. This phone STALKING is being taken seriously.
 
http://www.firstamendmentcenter.org/telephone-harassment-statutes
 
People violating these laws may receive fines, prison sentences or both.
 
If someone harasses you, make sure to KEEP the messages.
Your smart phone has setting to automatically delete messages after a certain number are reached. Turn the setting OFF.
 
For your specific case, consult a lawyer.
Of course you can also just block the caller.....
 
Beth

Years ago, with lots of help from you all, I stripped, brightened and stained an old deck that had been sitting for years.  
We just had a small pressure treated deck built around a portion of our pool yesterday.  I remember back in the day there was a certain amount of time suggested for the wood to dry out before stripping and brightening.  What is the recommended time now days?  Of course the wife wants it done yesterday but I'm not doing it until it's time.
Also, I used an Armstrong Clark semi-transparent stain back then.  Is this still a good option or are there better ones out there?
Thanks All