Russ Johnson

Doug, would you have a wiring diagram to send me? Russ@pressurewasherky.us

Plug it off. It's 1/2" pipe thread.

Doug, a plastic plug could be a thermal relief valve. Is your pump tank fed? Could be sucking air where it's leaking water. Call me if you'd like.

Some are time delay shut down with manual reset, like the one we're discussing. Others are instant start/stop as the trigger is pulled.

Timer is bad.

Many of Hydro Teks electrics are made to auto stop and start.

What unloader is on it? A trapped pressure unloader will hold head pressure unless there's an easy start valve either built in to the unloader, or mounted separately on the head of the pump. If the engine pulley is turning but the belts aren't, then the belts are either loose or worn or both.

Chris, feel free to call me if you get stumped. 502-231-6506

See the holes next to the ones the bolts came out of? Put the bolts in those and tighten them evenly against the "sheave" part of the pulley, and it'll push it off the bushing. The bushing may have a setscrew in the flange near the belt guard. Loosen it, and pull the bushing off the shaft. Why do you feel the need to remove the pump to service the wet end? You should be able to do it with the pump in place.

The large one is Honda OEM. The smaller one is aftermarket, and a lot cheaper.

I'd say the burner on the new one isn't adjusted properly, and the older one probably is in need of a tune up.

Those valves are great on a pressure fed, closed loop bypass machine, but they don't care much for a suction type application.

I'd just about guarantee it.

Joel, the thing that's leaking is a thermal relief valve. If you're bypassing to the tank, you don't need it...it's just sucking air. Remove it and plug the hole.

I've had brand new pumps come in to install in a machine, and have to pull and pop them.

30 mm or 1 3/16". Please buy a 6 point socket. The caps are cheap and plentiful (I've got a scrap brass bucket full of them), but are a total pain to remove once they're rounded. It usually involves a hammer and chisel.

The valves are stuck. Minerals in the water glue them together after the water evaporates. Remove each valve and poke them open with a screwdriver.

Then, sure, you can put a 250° on it.

The 250° thermostat won't do you any good if the machine isn't set up to run steam.

That's what it sounds like to me. The burner is probably staying lit with the trigger closed and overheating the water. A very dangerous situation.

Sounds like a leak downstream of the unloader...quick coupler, dribbling gum, etc.

Jeff, it could be a couple of things. You may have a bad regulator, a loose or burned connection at the regulator, bad alternator coils behind the flywheel, or a blown fuse in the control box. Check the fuse first. There's a phillips screw holding the control box cover on. Remove it, and the fuse sits up on top with a white plastic cover on it. To check the alternator, find the 2 gray wires in the harness. There should be 28 - 32 volts AC between them coming off the alternator. There are other wiring checks that would frankly take way too long to type, so if we haven't hit on the problem yet, call me.

Modern carburetors no longer have a mixture screw...EPA rules. Sounds like you've got some crud in the main jet. Take the bolt out of the bottom of the bowl (shut the gas off first). The jet is located straight up in the tube the bolt came out of. Welding tip cleaners work well for reaming the gunk out, but be careful, you don't want to remove any brass from the jet. That will oversize it, and it will run rich. One other remote possibility is a cracked insulator. That;s the black piece between the carb and the cylinder head. While the engine is running rough, spray some carburetor cleaner in that area. If there's a crack, the engine will pick up carb cleaner instead of air, and smooth out.

One can only hope John.

As a mere mod, not an admin, over at ***, I was able to change the title of one of my threads that was 2 months old...?