GaryK

We recycle them as soon as they arrive. I have to admit I am a little bit surprised whenever we get an inquiry from "the yellow pages." We have reduced our ad to the minimum chargeable size (we pay to have our website instead of our street address). A few years ago we ran a quarter page ad. I think the only reason many small business owners still have yellow page ads is because they are afraid of what they might miss if they pulled it.

Thanks for the service manual, Russ! Yes, I have a feeling that the crankcase is going to be (SWAG) about $200. Add the wage I pay my foreman and some other parts and soon we are in the neighborhood of a comparable new pump--maybe a General TS1511--if the mounting hardware can be acquired or built--or a straight replacement if i can find a better price than I am getting locally (of course we need to factor in shipping the approx. 30 lb. beast). Till then, we are hoping the warranty will be honored but getting ready for "Plan B." Gary Kellogg CJ's High Climbing Services 503.228.9278

My foreman happens to be an expert small engine mechanic. Meanwhile we have a Cat 5CP3120 (4 gpm, 3500 psi) pump with a broken mounting tab and corresponding crack in the crankcase. Still works fine but cannot keep oil in it! The pump, part of a BE belt drive pressure washer purchased in 2005, is said to be covered by a 5 year warranty, but somehow I have a suspicion that they may baulk at a cracked crankcase. If this is the outcome, how difficult is it to rebuild one of these pumps? Are there any special tricks or tips? I imagine we will renew all the soft parts--gaskets, o-rings, etc. if we rebuild it. We are in the dark on some things. For example, we have no guide on torquing the piston rod bolts. I have not been able to find a manual other than a parts diagram for this unit. Any bits o' wisdom most welcome! Gary Kellogg CJ's High Climbing Services Portland, OR 503.228.9278

We have a BE belt drive machine with a Honda 13hp engine and Cat pump--4gpm/3600 psi. Recently, water began leaking from the bottom of the unloader valve, an OEM valve with one of the common red knobs on top. Well, we traced the problem (we thought) to a simple O-ring, replaced it and it soon began leaking again. This time we noticed the stainless steel balls were deformed and there was no way this looked to be repairable. So we replaced the unloader. We were told by our supplier that we should go easy on adjusting the unloader valve, that those are not designed to be turned often. Because of the difficulty of turning it, I have often wondered about that issue. I wonder if there are any bits o' wisdom here about that issue. Thanks in advance. Gary in Portland