mick m

Love when you guy's get your panties in a bunch!

I'e never heard of them with relief valves. I've got a 18hp v twin & have always used the short one's.

Ah ha! We call it T/A Trading As.... here in Oz

DBA, short for?

You bet you can! Works best with a surface cleaner & truck wash. Highly recommend you tackle this after 1/2 bottle of Southern Comfort & while the good lady wife is away!

Hoods, deck's, roofs.

Andy, you've got air somewhere in the system. Have you recently ran the tank dry? I found that if I allowed that to happen, the pump was trying to get rid of the air trapped in the system, which had a hammering effect on the coil, & loosining the built up scale in the coil, which would explain the ''rusty'' water your seeing. I'd be checking the valve's 1st. Make sure they havn't flogged themselves out trying to pump air. Their pretty fragile to begin with. I don't have a pressure switch, mine is activated by a flow switch. Water flows, burner turns on. Simple. After 800 hrs I'd be surprised if the pistons are cracked. I had an A & R pump.......3 weeks old, water pouring out from between the head & the body. Seems Luigi forgot to fit that last little 10 c washer at the factory! Maybe something as simple as that.

Perth, Western Australia haha

Could be a dodgy unloader, along with some sort of restriction in the spray bar. Unloader sense's there's too much pressure in the system & dumps it back into, I assume your tank.

I'd advise you to put in your quote that while you will take all due care, you will not be held responsible for any paint damage. All it will take is a small paint bubble to burst & it'll rip it off before you know whats happened.

'Tis better to have & not use, than need it to do a job & not have it.

It will be after the pump, otherwise the it would lead to all sorts of warranty claims.

Stick to your guns. Your price is the price. Try negotiating the price of fuel at your local station & see what they say. After they've stopped laughing of course.

If you use a water based sealer, it will be white & dry clear. The ''milky'' look you've heard about is what happen's when solvent based sealer's are used. It is critical that the surface is totally dry, because if not when the surface starts to warm up, the moisture is drawn to the surface. So what happens is, the sealer starts to lift off the surface & makes it look milky. If you use water based sealer's on drive ways, it wont stand up to hot tyre's being driven on it & will peel away. On 100 + degree days here in Perth, I still wait 3 days before sealing if using solvent base. Otherwise you run the risk of it going wrong.

I do it here in Perth Western Australia, but I'm constantly surprised by the number of people who don't know that it can be done. I always ask if they want it sealed after the clean, pointing out the long term benefits. What usualy convince's them is when you say, ''Think of it like varnishing a wooden table top. it protects it from further staining & makes it easier to clean''. Thats when the penny drops. They can see how the ''varnish'' works to protect the surface.

If you can get a 13 hp engine to pump out 4 gallons a min @ 4,000 I'll be very surprised. The engine wont stand up to the strain. It will be operating at the absolute maximum, & wont last.

Hi Andy, 1st issue is caused when feul is pumped in, but does'nt ignite straight away, then suddenly whoomp, off it go's. Same as a carby in a car when they get flooded. 2nd issue, I think is water in the feul system. Don't quote me on it tho.

Sorry man, beg to differ. If you want to wash th ''dust'' off you'll have to use a s/c otherwise you will leave lines all over them from using a lance. Drop your pressure down & just take your time, bearing in mind that it will take a lot longer to clean at the lower pressure.You could use a very mild detergent. It will all help to lift the dust off the pavers. If thier going to be sealed, they'll have to be pressure cleaned anyway.

Hi John. It almost looks like years of constant cleaning with a biocide type bleach has finally caught up with it, Is it in a high foot traffic area?

Hahahahahaha. Nice one Centurion!!!!

All of the above. Perhaps increase the diameter of your intake hose as well. You can never have too bigger hose on the intake side.

I think if anything is going to fail, it will be the welds. And as for how much worse the vibration could be, it's more of a shake. your hands will feel like you got a severe case of pins & needles. If you tap your finger tips together, they will sting!

Some times they will pack up for no apparant reason, other than to annoy you. If the pump was run dry at some stage & you get air trapped in the system then start it up, the valves can sometimes stick open or closed & because everything is out of whack & you will get severe 'hammering' in the line. If the o rings are shot the valve seat wont seat against it squarely giving you the hammering sensation. It's all good fun. Isn't it?

Hi Chappy. The reason there made with a bend as opposed to 90* corners is that water flows faster round a bend than a corner. I had a try of one a couple of years ago. After about 3 minutes my fingers were tingling like hell. They vibrate something shocking.

Hi Chad. Its sounds like the pump is being starved of water &/or there's some sort of obstruction in the unloader itself. Or you've gone & cracked a piston. Is the gun vibrating?