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Does anyone have experience with this coating? Seems like the spread rate is about 50-60 square feet a gallon - pretty weak. Does it have a pot life? Share if you know something please....

Thanks. Armstrong was used. Do you think that this is contractor problem? I dont think it is, but haven't ran across this problem before. Thanks again for your input!

These knot holes have just started to do this. No idea what it is. SAP? Moisture? Any ideas?

Agreed not everyone is a customer that calls, however they are a customer as we refinished their deck. Also on the oxidation, yes I am aware the causes of oxidation, but bleach is also an oxidizer if used incorrectly. but that is a good tip on finding out what kinda of siding they have and checking manufacturers recommendations. I shall be calling them this afternoon! Thanks again. How is business in Clear Spring?

I have a customer that absolutely wants no bleach used on house. I guess they had house washed before and something went wrong. I'm guessing inexperience mix and killed everything and oxidized siding. My question.....what can I use to remove mildew from siding? Something I can downstream or x-jet and that works fast. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Thank you for the feed back everyone, greatly appreciated. I have been on the site for awhile and not really posted too much, so I appreciate the responses. Best of luck to everyone.

I agree, as i have always done is let it weather "one season", I do notice a longer lasting stain effect as opposed to doing a newer deck that homeowner insists to not wait. I had a new deck turn grey even after staining, as if the stain didn't adhere to the wood within a few mos. That same deck after I told homeowner to give another season to weather before we re-do it lasted about 3 years before it needed to be redone. That article kinda made me re-think that maybe my prep was wrong. I do however like my wood slightly acidic when I stain, I have noticed it last longer than a neutral ph. We have a big pine sided house to do this year, with 2 giant cedar decks. Most of the siding was weathered, but there were places where new siding was added and I had to tell homeowner in his best interest was to let the wood weather til next season. He was slightly hesitant until I explained to him the benefits to weathering and non-weathering. Guess gut instinct is 90% right, my gut had always said to weather the wood, that and I had always been taught that way.

You know to be honest I never even noticed the date on this form, as I mentioned it was just emailed to me not long ago. I appreciate that input as I now feel like an idiot for not even noticing the date! Thanks I appriciate the input. You are correct we do not use solids, strictly oil semi-trans. AC is stain of choice for us. I know the solvents and binders have changed since that time.

So one of my reps sent this article to me on pre-weathering of wood. I'm a little confused now, as I have always let new wood weather for a season before doing any treating of the surface. I read this article and now I'm not sure what is recommended any more. This article tested paint and film forming materials. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Also this has most my reps and suppliers feeling same way, they also have always let or been told to let surface weather.[ATTACH]18175[/ATTACH] preweathering wood.pdf

I have had a problem with a homeowner as I did a house wash for them and some areas on the gutter and fascia board has lost paint and is showing bare metal. I use as soft scrub method on the gutters and fascia boards with a truck washing brush. Soft bristled. I had three contractors comeout and take a look at it and they say it is nothing the wash did that it is a paint failure. It only happened in the front, and we did the same method around the entire house with low pressure and soft scrubbing. The homeowner called the people the installed the siding and the custom home builder, they stated it was the power washing companies fault. They also said it would take a chemist to really say if it was my fault. We used simple green downstreamed with bleach. Bleach was at a 3% at end of gun to house. Simple Green is a non-corrosive cleaner as stated by the MSDS sheet, I told the homeowners it does not take a chemist to prove this, but an MSDS sheet. They wanted me to replace the problems and as it states in my estimates that customers sign we are not responsible for manufacturers defect. I told them I would meet them half way on the price but they declined. I spoke to my lawyer and he stated that if I have written proof and MSDS sheet of material to let it go and let the homeowners do what they have to do. They have since reported me to the BBB and this is my first complaint and or problem I have had in the 5 yrs I been in business. I am stumped on what to do now and looking for any suggestions and if anyone else has ever had this problem. Please help as I have done hundreds of homes and never seen this.

I do now..LOL

Could I get a copy of forms please, if anyone still reads this thread...

Not sure what sikkens product, as the contractor never told customer. I will check this again this evening and compare all the post pros and cons. I wanna thank everyone ahead of time for the response. I have never used sikkens and have never seen it sold in Missouri, I figure it may not be all that great if you cannot find it!

I am currently getting ready to start a deck job, and the homeowner had some other contractors telling that SIKKENS was better than TWP as TWP will let the deck rot after 7 mos. Now twp has a manufacturer warranty 1-2 yrs? I am wandering which is actually better, I have never used SIKKENS, always use twp...please any info would be greatly appreciated.

Where I live there are companies that will bring a water trailer with a few thousand gallons of water, the trailer is dropped off on your site and left until done with it...The company here is called "Rain for Rent"