PLD
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Everything posted by PLD
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Don't feel to red, I have priced box mowers many times and it seems to me that 3 push small mowers bolted into a triangle would work just as well, cut just as wide, and do so at about 1/3 the price.
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That, and a hex pole (va. a round one) flexes a whole lot less providing greater control.
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Obviously, that's not feasible. I'm a good sized guy, and but I do take simple precautions. Most quotes are not done same day, and I get a number, and call them at that number to confirm. I also leave behind a written log of all quotes, job sites, address, name, phone, date, time, etc. If I don't show up back at home within a few hours of when I'm expected there is a trail of evidence telling family and rescue where to start looking. Granted a serial killer is highly unlikely, but a fall or get injury while working alone are not. When I show my rentals it is a whole different story. Attacks on property managers and RE agents happen every so often because perps know they will have a victim alone in a vacant property. I always make an appointment, never for the same day, call to confirm at a phone answered by a human, and I'm most often carrying a concealed firearm. As I said before, please don't take my statements as an attempt to shift any of the blame from the perp to the victim. I'm the last person you will see offering apologies for human garbage like that. I'm a right wing, gun tottin', shoot first and ask questions later kinda guy. I think it's a good news day when they report that a homeowner or shopkeeper blasts a would-be robber into oblivion. But we all have the responsibility to take reasonable precautions to protect ourselves from harm. And checking out the credibility of a contractor is a one means of doing so. And had she done so, perhaps she might still be alive today.
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Quick Surface cleaner question
PLD replied to M Pearlstein's question in Residential Pressure Washing
I'm assuming 5.5gpm Are you doing 3000sq in 45 minutes?!? That is awesome. With 4gpm and a 27in cleaner, I'm at about 1000ft/hr clean and rinse. -
Check with your water dept. For almost all hydrants made in the last 50 years partial opens are a big no-no. Hydrants are "stored" dry to prevent corrosion. There are drain ports at the base of the hydrant just above the "seal washer". When the screw is opened all the way, the valve is full open to the main and the seal closes off the drain ports. When it's closed, the main is sealed and the drain ports are full open. When it's part way, water flows from the main out the hose nipples AND the drain ports under pressure. Underground at the main, this erodes the earth into the flow (think sinkhole) and removes the earth from around the hydrant bottom. The meter itself is just ~6" x 12". But all Ga meters now require a backflow preventer (also 6"x12") and a gate valve after the meter. This is bolted inside an 18x18x36 aluminum cage with two 4" wheels for transport. Because this style of assembly cannot be threaded directly onto the hydrant anymore, add 4ft of 3" hose, a 90^ elbow and a hydrant coupler. The hose and elbow alone weigh about 20 lbs. The whole assembly is easily 100# and quite unwieldly. If you are not using these style meters now, plan on it soon. Oddly, I would have expected Calif to have added the safetly measures long before Ga.
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Found the missing water. Meter reader (me) error. It was more like 14k gallons. That's more on target. ~70 hours at 4gpm.
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I use a 16" for the second story just fine. 24ft is too wiggly. I highly recommend going to a paint store and getting one with a hex extension and a snap lock (vs a twist). Much easier to use.
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Responsibility in a manner that mitigates the accountability of the perp? Certainly not. Responsibility to herself, and the family she left behind. Yes. Granted, you *should* be able to walk downtown at 3am with $100 bills hanging out of your pockets. But, that is not reality. The reality is that such behavior is risky and that risk is common knowledge. So, you have the responsibility to yourself (which you may abdicate) and your friends/family (which you may not have) not to place yourself in a position of imminent danger.
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Go see your local water dept. The will loan (w/ deposit) or rent you a water meter fitted to attach to the 2.5" outlet on a hydrant. The output of the meter is typically also 2.5" SHT so you will need an adapter to your rig's feed. Each month you take the meter in to be read and get a bill. FWIW, I washed 165 apartments and used 40k gallons ($3.50/per). That sounds like alot per unit, but we spoiled the bypass to the storm sewer and ran the pump 8+ hrs/day. Having said that I now realize that 40K is about twice what should have been used at 4gpm. Hmmm. Where did the extra 20k go? Any ideas? Things to know: - Standard Hose Thread (SHT) on the hydrants matches NOTHING commonly available. Any adapters/hoses you may need will have to be ordered from a fire supply hose or specialty store. Ask your water authority for one, they may have it for loan. If not, call ga fire rescue (http://www.georgiafirerescue.com) - Open the hydrant and dump 2-300 gallons to blow out the crap in the lines. - hydrant must be opened all the way to close the drains. failure to do so will create a sinkhole around the hydrant and really muddy water. - Because the hydrant must be wide open, your meter needs a valve to regulate flow. You will not need to open this much at all (10% ?) to charge a 3/4" supply line more than adequately. - A wide open 2.5" with no pressure regulator is rough on garden hose. I have cheap supply hose and experienced a half dozen ruptures in 10 days. Some were a combination of cars and pressure. Some were just excessive pressure. - Pressure varies quite a bit by location. Pressures are set to be useable at the end of the line. If you are near the main and/or pump house they may be 2-3x what they are at the end of the line. - You may be working with dirty water. - A portable meter weights about 100# and is 18"x18"x48". Plan room on the trailer. It's bulky and one man can move it, but two makes it much easier. - You may need to have your tank inspected to see that it is filled with an air gap. If so, fashon one from PVC and make sure that the air gap is 2x the feed pipe size. - Carry your permit with you. Residents have a habit of calling the authorities when they see you taking water from a hydrant. Most authorities see the meter and just wave or stop and chat for a few minutes but you never know when they may actually check. - Don't get smart and open the 5" outlet to clear the mud. A *frightening* amount of water will flow before you can get the hydrant 1/3 open. :)
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One thing I found out in my hobbies is that if you do not support the local vendors (even at a higher price), they go away. And local stores are a wealth of advice and essoteric (sp?) items. I still buy online/cheapest for many items, but I also make sure that mom-n-pop get a slice of the pie as well. A good recent example is my surf cleaner arm. Hydrotec only sells through dealers, and I needed the part yesterday. My local dealer (ACP - hapeville) bent over backwards to get me that part overnight. They might have made $20, but spent hours phoning, tracking (it went missing in transit), etc. All he wanted for his time was to keep him on mind when I need something bigger like a skid. And I guarantee you that if his price slightly higher he'll get my biz. He earned it.
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Just two?!? A 1.5" line will provide ~100gpm. Most temp meters are 2.5" and can provide over 300gpm. I open mine up wide to blow out the gunk before I start, and it throws a 2.5" column of water about 75 feet. The meter dial spins like a top. Before you buy a 2.5" SHT -> 3/4 hose thread adapter, ask the county for one. I paid $25 and when I returned the meter, the volunteered that I could have borrowed one for free.
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That's what I do. I spoil fresh water to the ground when running off supply and recirc to the tank when running off the tank. Everything I have is fitted with 1/4in QC's (like Alan) so I use my trigger to stop flow and change. Ball valves are heavy, hard to toggle, and need to be replaced about every 3 months. The only time I stop the pump is to pack up, or when I get tired of hearing it running.
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Have you tried letting the pump get warm to expand the plug hole some? As for thickness, mine uses 30 weight. Noproblem to pump out if you can reach the bottom.
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I don't think it's athletes foot for me. I had mine cleared up 100% and it was back after one day on crew. Looks and acts just like AF, but responds poorly to AF cremes, ok to lotions, and pops up in just 48 hours.
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What's your minimum to turn the key?
PLD replied to PressurePros's question in Residential Pressure Washing
Typically, $60 but I avoid those like the plague. I do have a $20 patio and a $20 front entrance booked, but they are within hose distance of a $150 job. FWIW, I did 4 white rocking chairs today. The neighbor came over after we had rolled up and wanted them done and an estimate done on the house. I said $20 with the house job or $60 now. She wanted them done today so she could paint them this weekend. 30 minutes later I pocketed $60 cash. She balked on the house (a good deal at $240). I expect she never wanted it done anyway. -
TWP-penetrating, film forming or both?
PLD replied to PressurePros's question in Wood Cleaning & Restoration - Decks, Fences, etc.
Can you re-coat TWP 200 successfully? The manufacturer recommends against it, but I have a customer pending now that wants a percarb and re-coat instead of a strip and seal. FWIW, the deck looks good. I guessed 2 yrs since it was done and the homeowner said 4-5yrs... -
I'd love to test it head to head against the purple stuff I'm using. It's ~$23/4 gallons but you cut it 2:1 before use. Scott, we should swap a gallon and run a head to head test.
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first check in hand
PLD replied to Barry M's question in Wood Cleaning & Restoration - Decks, Fences, etc.
After you remove the bulk rust, try "painting" over the rusty surface with Naval Jelly. I converts rust into a paintable surface. -
Please help, need to make final decisions
PLD replied to First Impressions's topic in Tools, Equipment & Basic Maintenance
The honda GX line is the best small engine that I have ever owned. 5 stars. Wait on the tank. I didn't have one last year, and while I have one now that is handy, I do not use it for 95% of the jobs. If the trailer is an issue, you can always carry an empty tote tank and set it on the ground when loaded. -
Actually, the fascia is aluminum just like the gutters. Actually, it's exactly the same material from the same roll (coil). The extrude it for a gutter, or brake it for a facia...
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Ditto for me.
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I absolutely agree with the theory. Implementation is a bit of a problem. I'm a two man shop, and I run quotes while #2 works. Any suggestions for getting face time with the 9-5'ers?
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Ques about a deck job, offer to partner for learning.
PLD posted a question in Wood Cleaning & Restoration - Decks, Fences, etc.
I measured a deck today for a a bid on wash and stain. It all appears to be unsealed PT pine, perhaps even just southern yellow pine The wood under the mat indicates that it may have been "sealed" with thompsons or similar. Customer indicates that the spot beads water but she is the first owner and swears no treatment has been ever been applied. Perhaps factory thompsons. In any case, nothing remains now but dead, dry, grey surface. IMHO, no strip needed just wash off the grey and stain. The customer seeks to eliminate the roughness and splinters, make the deck pretty, and prevent it from being in this condition again. There is some cracking and checking, but IMHO it is in good condition considering. If it was mine, this would be a simple wash and stain. But, the customer wants the deck safe (i.e. splinter free) for a toddler in bare feet. I got this one second hand. The customer had previously paid someone to sand the entire deck. They previous freelancer bid $300 and after 2 days, three palm sanders, and a ton of sweat later, they just disappeared. The rails are yellow again (not bad work), the pickets are grey'ish (half-way sanded), and the floor is about 15-20% yellow again in patches. All that said, how do I approach this one? Is a wall-to-wall sand warranted or overkill? If warranted, how do I best perform that? With a floor sander? Is that do-able for a first timer without serious damage? And how do I bid the sanding work? Finally, is there anyone with experience near me (Fayetteville, Ga) that wants partner on this deal so I can learn? I'll provide the labor and materials, you provide the expertise and training. Or we can work something out. All I really want is to cover my overhead and leave behind a happy customer who thinks I'm the expert I portrayed myself to be. -
Ques about a deck job, offer to partner for learning.
PLD replied to PLD's question in Wood Cleaning & Restoration - Decks, Fences, etc.
Yep. 1mm+ homes with grey nasty decks. Home center stain is a "nice deck". professional work is very few and far between. I can honestly say I have never seen a deck like that one in person. Not even at the exclusive gated golf club community here. -
Ok, I read into it that there was a problem with new brick and housewash. I was ready to soak up some more knowledge...