Chappy

The method with Seal n Lock is to wash in sand after cleaning. But its designed to seal wet pavers. If your using an acrylic, you cant really do that, because the sand stays wet far longer than the pavers. What I used to do with acrylic sealers is apply sealer, come back later and broom in dry sand then add a light coat of sealer. It was too time intensive. Thats one of the reasons I was sold on SealNLock.

Ive given out 3 leads around the country this last week alone for stripping. If you do this kind of work and I dont have your number, you are missing out.

There is very little risk of tracking bleach into the home or killing grass if your downstreaming THEN pressure washing. I like PWing first then downstreaming bleach last. Both ways work, and there is so much water in the grass by the time you finish the risk is nil.

Please post here is you strip pavers and re-seal. My you tube channel YouTube - ‪roofsanddecks's Channel‬‏
comes up all over the country in searches and I would love to refer to you. I have gotten 6 calls from New York, New Jersey and even Callifornia in the last 2 months.
If you already offer paver sealing and want to know how to strip, call me. I'm happy to help.

Awww! That mean Paul Ryan didn't I use his awesome powers to force the mean Epa to accept the poor, destitute pw'ers contract! What a bad man! im changing my vote right now.
What stupidity. If he had done more, wom how would that story have been written.
'Ryan causes power washers to lose contact to company sending unsolicited bids!'
Seriously! Can't you people find better ways to bash Ryan.

Muriatic Acid is very dangerous and it does not matter how much it cost, there is not much use for it in pressure washing unless you have exact, specific uses which 98% of the time you have no need in most pressure washing jobs.
Price on chemicals should not matter, what the chemical is, how dangerous it is and what it does should be what matters to you.
Like Russ Mentioned, unless you want to etch concrete (like melting it) for applying specific coatings in heavy duty settings or industrial applications, I would stay away from that stuff.
You can almost always see in the Home Depot, Lowes, and other hardware stores where someone spilled it on the concrete floor where it ate through some of the concrete. Most customers don't want this happening on their concrete and I am sure that they would get really pissed off and/or take legal action if you tried it for some unknown reason.
This is one of those chemicals that there are not a lot of uses for, is dangerous and can easily cause permanent damage to most surfaces and/or yourself.
Hope this helps.

looks good Dan.
Hey, I get a chance next to test your mix again. I have a failing solid to look at.

Here is a gazebo and dock I just finished. The test spot on the floor I did came up nice so I went ahead and bid it. unfortunately the verticles and overhanging plywood were a nightmare. 3 seperate strips with full strength HD80 boosted with glycol and extra SH beads. then I had to use a paint stripper and then sand. Overhead sanding with a Makita is very tiring, especially in 97deg heat!!
the worst part was that every single place where the wood joined was caulked! Inside and outside. the stain absolutely would not come off the caulk even with the BIX or scraping or sanding.
In some areas I just cut it out, like the overhangs, and where it was really bad I just skimmed it with a cedar color caulk. the rest I just said the hell with it and gave up.