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      The Grime Scene Terms Of Service and Forum Rules   08/23/2007

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big mike

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About big mike

  • Rank
    TGS Platinum Member
  • Birthday 02/22/1965

Profile Information

  • Company Name
    A-1 Pressure Washing, LLC
  • First & Last Name
    Mike Schoeben
  • City & State
    Champlin, MN
  • Occupation
    Pressure washing contractor
  1. deck cleaning?

    This is an advanced question? How about following the directions on the label?
  2. For those of you who poo-poo bleach, remember this: bleach degrades very quickly with exposure to sunlight. A roof is going to get a very high dose of UV every day, thus naturally neutralizing the bleach. We clean gray weathered wood a lot (decks, fences, siding, roofs, etc.) and we use bleach. As a matter of fact, I haven't used a percarb in over four years now. Someone mentioned the bleach "reactivating" with rain. How exactly does that work? If you wash after applying, there's only going to be a minuscule amount of residual left, if any. Bleach on a roof does the job, and many times eliminates using acid. Acid is more detrimental to the surroundings, way more dangerous, and drives up the cost considerably. One caveat though: using a mix like "apple sauce" on shakes is overkill. I feel that I offer MY customers a professional job done correctly. Just because the percarb followed by acid is what has been driven into every ones head on these forums, doesn't make it the ONLY correct process. I tell my customers not to waste their money on sealing or staining their roof period. It's gonna get gray in a year or two anyway, and we all know that there isn't a stain on the market that can tout a claim of lasting more than 3 years (and look good) on any horizontal surface, so why even go there? OK, bring the comments......
  3. Deck Sanding

    You may be able to simply turn the spindle to expose the unstripped area for easy sanding.
  4. Tony, I've played around with RS then AC top coat as well with poor results. The newly stained decks looked great, but failed too quickly. AC as a stand alone is just too unpredictable also, so we are back to RS on ALL jobs that require a semi trans stain. Your deck looks great after cleaning, but it looks like mildew was the problem after the first year. I feel that Linseed oil is the issue (as always). Haven't we gone down this road of looking for the latest and greatest stain, only to be disappointed again and again? Can't say this enough: stick with a product that works, and you know how to use.
  5. Did I screw up new concrete?

    Here's an easy test for ANY surface you plan on using your surface cleaner: Take the wand first, with the same tip as your surface cleaner, and test it at an inch and a half from the surface (about a 4" square, in an inconspicuous location). If you damage that little patch, you will know the surface won't handle the surface cleaner. Once you pull the handle on that surfacer, there's no turning back. You will have damage.
  6. New Cedar Deck staining issue

    Yeah, you're a Guru alright. If you can get hold of an Osborne brush and a Makita, you can fix that. Jim is right. New cedar will only take one coat, and sometimes not real well. I like to use clear for the first year coat, then follow with cedar color for maintenance. You can't hide the furring, and some will wear away and some won't. It will need to be fixed eventually, and will require physical agitation of some sort. Next year here's what WE would do: Wash the deck lightly with a dilute bleach mixture (for specifics do some research). Let dry and remove that furring (again, research) Apply 1 coat for maintenance. We usually only do 2 coats on newly stripped and neutralized decks to drive the color as deep as possible.
  7. I had long suspected you were the Pulp of Priestwood. Almost sounds like royalty.....
  8. How long would this take you?

    From pull up to collecting payment, 1.5 tops.
  9. Magic man, your question isn't making a lot of sense?? Almost everyone uses their lower pressure nozzles on their high pressure machines (we don't suggest controlling pressure with the unloader). You mention having a two gun system and I am just wondering why you would use different guns for soaping and rinsing? Are you a two man operation? If not, then using two guns will double your work time. Soap and rinse with the same gun if possible. Also, use the search function and look up "downstream injector". Upstreaming chems will fry your pump quicker than anything else. Oh yea, signature please...
  10. Debt Vs. Debt Free

    I went the cash route as well. It's a slower way to grow, but manageable IMO. Also, if you find the business isn't your cup of tea, you won't have a ton of debt to get out from under. My overhead is lower because of it, and I can afford to keep my pricing competitive.
  11. Metal Roof

    For paint prep just use water pressure and NO CHEMS on the roof. Any chemical you use on that surface would leave a residue which will interfere with the adhesion of the new paint. What you want to achieve is removing the loose flaking material, and the painter will encapsulate the remaining paint with a new coating. You could actually just use a scraper and physically remove the flaking paint as well (same result).
  12. Milwaukee 2 day Educational Seminar

    Actually Paul, I am kinda hoping that the snow hasn't melted by then. I am usually getting slammed with work about mid-March as soon as the snow melts. If the snow is still around, I'll be at the event.
  13. This just in!!!

    That's just plain mean.....
  14. Milwaukee 2 day Educational Seminar

    Ron, I was hoping I could just ride my sled over to Milwaukee from Minneapolis...just messin' with him ya know? He's from my neck of the woods (the snow belt).
  15. Treating an Asphalt Driveway for Moss

    Um, I wouldn't recommend a surface cleaner on asphalt (unless it is equipped with much larger nozzles). If you want to see striping, go for it (I know because I tested out a new Big Guy for about 5 seconds on my own driveway, OOPS!!) Use the diluted 12.5% by itself, and a wand with a wide fan to rinse, and keep the nozzle as far from the surface as possible. I'd stay away from the TSP, Dawn, or any other caustic type cleaners. Asphalt is made with LOTS of oil, so you wouldn't want to be removing it from the asphalt.
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