steven

A person can drive themselves crazy worrying if they got a good deal. Some will say it is a good deal and some will say it is a bad deal, All that matters is that you are happy with it. And if that's the case then it doesn't matter what anyone says.

A person can drive themselves crazy worrying if they got a good deal. Some will say it is a good deal and some will say it is a bad deal, All that matters is that you are happy with it. And if that's the case then it doesn't matter what anyone says.

Just a couple of pics of a project I am working on, this was some really old shakes that needed two fat coats of amber. you can see on the front where i left off on the second coat.

Big house.  Lots of windows and dormers.
 
It is a shame to put a solid stain on decent lap cedar.  I'd charge an extra 20% on labor just to put up with the sacrilege.

Jason,
 
that's what I like about stain, you can really wipe it off the latex,( but you cant really wipe the latex off the stain)

Just a couple of pics of a project I am working on, this was some really old shakes that needed two fat coats of amber. you can see on the front where i left off on the second coat.

Just a couple of pics of a project I am working on, this was some really old shakes that needed two fat coats of amber. you can see on the front where i left off on the second coat.

Just a couple of pics of a project I am working on, this was some really old shakes that needed two fat coats of amber. you can see on the front where i left off on the second coat.

 
Agree with Beth.  That is going to be a very difficult strip.  The Cabot's looks virtually new on the rear wall and little weathered on the front of the garage.
 
We use ACR's sodium hydroxide stripper, which is similar to HD-80.  I'd test first with a mix of 12 oz./gal. of stripper, 8 oz./gal. of 633ADD or similar, and a bit of surfactant, say 3 oz./gal.  ACR sells Booster surfactant in gal. jugs.  As you are dealing with vertical/overhead surfaces, the surfactant will add a bit of "cling" to your mix and also keep the mix wet a bit longer.
 
You must keep the mix wet on the wood!  Work on reasonable sized sections, adding mix as needed.  Beth's suggestion of a stiff brush is probably going to be mandatory.  Break the bond and apply more mix!  Then keep wet with mist from your PW.
 
Do a "scratch" test, it will tell you if the stain is ready to be washed off.  It may take a while to dwell before it is ready to be removed.
 
The wood is going to fir.  Plan on a light sanding. 

Beth, would you mind sharing your stain application process?.

I can't write any more ! Wrist , hands and arms get fatigued doing wood at 8 gallons . 

yes all I did was boost up to 6 ounces and added some butyl. Came off like butter

15.29 megabytes of information hell ya.  the forest labs contradict some stuff people say on these boards. Like mill glaze, they say they tried to duplicate it but never have been able to. also they say to stain your deck after the wood is under 20% they say you don't have to wait. hmmmm. there is a ton of info on there thanks Beth
 
Ok how do I paste something on here, if this sounds like a foolish question I just cant figure it out on this new setup.
 
 

Or I could pick a family of a person that was wrongfully killed by a police officer. There's no shortage of them anywhere in the U.S.A

99.9% of all freebies are done  because YOU want to, and that makes You feel good.

I always give to the local charities in my area. I bought a calendar today for 15 dollars. It was being sold for the non profits in town. I had the chance to pick where it went so I chose the recreation department. I always try and buy local also. I would rather support the local hardware merchant than Lowes or Home depot. He might be 3 or 4 dollars more but it would take me an hour and $10 in gas to get sandpaper and plastic.

I would use employees