acegot

Had something similar once, it was fuel starvation.

I have had a craftsman one for about 10 years, works great on metals & plastics too!!!

Shane, You still using Bakers

Oxiclean does have surfactant in it, been using it for ten years for cleaning & light stripping, works good @ 8 oz per gallon mixed with warm to mild hot water. Much more cost effective when purchased at Costco. Around $1.25 lb. - 12 lb. tubs.

TWP users, what series are you using? Thanks in advance for your response.

Daniel, If you're liking Twp, you need to use the 1500 series, the best of 500 & 200.

Rick, Ahhh.... the Sights & Sounds of Redwood, Beautiful!

A possibility may be the hardness of the water in the mix also, "that's my story & I'm stickin' to it".

I haven't been on the boards in a while, Hello Woodies! You should always wash(Rinse) after sanding to get the dust out the pores of the wood, for better penetration & filling of the pores with sealer/stains. The double wetting I'm not sure on, cause on aged wood once it is rinsed & dried the pores should open up fine, I can only think that is what Jim stated is that on new wood that several drying cycle would open pores even more. Daniel, as for you saying you percard(or s-hydroxide) after sanding, to me that is a no-no. I have done it myself, as cleaning or stripping railings after the sanding of the floor & cap rail at the floor rinse cycle and the sanded wood is more vulnerable to th chemical & is harder to get neutralized in those areas & often having to use a stronger mix of acid to even out the color, so that tells me the wood is harder to neutralize after sanding & & applying chem. In my opinion that is too harsh on the sanded wood & there is no need. If there is anything that is to be stripped or cleaned that is not sanded thoroughly should done at the beginning of the project, then let dry, then sand, rinse, neutralize & brighten, rinse dry & seal/stain. I do Redwood & Cedar, these woods are more tempermental than PT Pine, but I feel the procedures are the same. Thank-you for taking the time to read my post.

Wonderful job Tony!

Wood Tux holds up well for me in IPE. Next time sand with 60 grit.

I think it is just the quality of the wood, just as in Redwood & Cedar(dont know about PTP) there are better cuts out of different parts of the tree,(also age) more dimensionally stable & internal bonding( for cracks or splits). Ive seen both ways here, same age & similar exposure, that one has more cupping & warping & the other looks pretty good.

Ipe, as any other hardwood, needs sealing, otherwise the boards will dry out, bend and crack real soon. Don't know if the west is getting all the Ipe seconds or what, But I 've seen Ipe dry out, split & warp a lot with full sun. I looked at a 10 yr. old Ipe deck a couple of years ago & it was a mess. It's different climates, hot dry summers here, sun 2/3 of time & pretty much every day from May to Nov.. Everything out here that gets full sun gets fried unless you have UV protection on it.

Mike, How old is the redwood? Is it conheart(knots) or clearheart(almost no knots, depending on the age)? F-18 for cleaner/stripper, citric acid for neutralizing & brightening. (or blend citr./oxalic) 800/900psi 25/40degree tip about 4/6 inches away moving fairly slow. Defur when dry, blow & seal/stain. Call me if you want.

There is a wood cleaner made by preserv-a-wood that is ph neutral and requires no acids. Ive used it, works very good, just to expensive.(Pre-mixed liquid concentrate) At least on Redwood, if you use citric acid after this cleaner, the wood will still lighten often times, depends on the wood. I dilute it down more than recommended & use for a maintenence cleaner sometimes. (does'nt darken the wood)