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      The Grime Scene Terms Of Service and Forum Rules   08/23/2007

      Terms of Service Warning: The contracting trades are an activity in which there exists the potential for serious injury or death. ALL Users must read and agree to these Terms of Service before using this site. This web site is dedicated to the contracting trades, an activity which is inherently dangerous. You should not depend on information gleaned from this site for your personal safety. Your safety depends upon your own judgment based on competent instruction, experience, and a realistic assessment of ability. There are no warranties, either expressed or implied, that the information on this website are accurate and reliable. Your use of this site indicates your assumption of the risk of death or serious injury and is an acknowledgment of your own sole responsibility for your safety. The following terms and conditions are in reference to the The Grime Scene web site and discussion board (www.thegrimescene.com), here in referred to as "The Grime Scene". These terms and conditions apply to all sites, services, and resources within the The Grime Scene. ACCEPTANCE OF TERMS The Grime Scene provides its service to you, subject to the following Terms of Service (referred to as "TOS"), which may be updated by us from time to time without notice. You may review the most current version of the TOS at any time in the Announcements. In addition, when using particular The Grime Scene services, you shall be subject to any posted guidelines or rules applicable to such services.
      [*]DESCRIPTION OF SERVICE The Grime Scene provides users with access to informational resources including communication and interactive resources pertaining to the contracting industry. Under no circumstances shall The Grime Scene be liable to any user on account of that user's use or misuse of the site or reliance on the site. Such limitation of liability shall apply to prevent recovery of direct, indirect, incidental, consequential, special, punitive and exemplary damages (even if The Grime Scene has been advised of the possibility of such damages). Such limitation of liability shall apply whether the damages arise from use or misuse of the site or reliance on the site, from inability to use the site, or from the interruption, suspension, or termination of the site or services offered on the site (including such damages incurred by third parties).
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BoyzInDaHood™

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BoyzInDaHood™ last won the day on October 19 2016

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About BoyzInDaHood™

  • Rank
    TGS Newbie
  • Birthday 09/18/1978

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.boyzindahoodresc.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Grand Island, NE, USA
  • Company Name
    Boyz In Da Hood Restaurant Exhaust Systems Cleaning
  • First & Last Name
    Marty Stout
  • City & State
    Grand Island, NE
  • Occupation
    Owner/Operator
  • Biography
    Purchased 30 year old kitchen exhaust cleaning business in 2008.
    Originally named Restaurant Exhaust Systems Cleaning run by Harry and Virginia Carrey.
    Still have 99% of customers as of 2013.
    Nebraska born and raised!
  1. I love to share! I don't charge less than $300 plus tax. I won't leave my house for less, won't even keep talking to you on the phone if you keep pushing for less. No matter how small, or how long it DOESN'T take, $300 minimum. I like to charge $25/hr of driving one way in addition to about $100/hr or so in amount of time it would take for ONE person to complete the job. Which, by the way, is how its been going quite swimmingly I might add. Powerwash.com, I think, used to have a forum and somebody posted about pricing there. They said if you're not charging at least $100 - $150 per hour of cleaning time you might as well stay home. Myself, I added the $25 per hour driving charge. Because let's face it, some of us out here in the flyover country just can't make it with only charging based on the size or amount of time it takes to do just the cleaning. Break it down into extreme detail: $50 per fan $25 per filter $10 per linear foot of duct $25 per linear foot of hood Just for example. What are your thoughts? People don't like to share what they charge for their products or services because they don't want the competition to undercut them. I say, let them undercut me, when they screw up, I become WAY MORE VALUABLE! Especially if I mop up after myself or re-light pilot lights, it's always the little details that can keep you the job at the higher price versus your competitor that comes in at $100 or more than you. Because you know, your competitor may not go on the roof at all, they may not even show up with plastic to wrap the hood or they may not even show up with a pressure washer! *GASP* How many times has your customer replaced the fan motor? Do they know why? How loud is the fan? Can you hear anything? Why is the place filling up with smoke? What's NOT being done? Educate yourself, then educate your customer. Take photos/videos. Proof is Payment!
  2. Keep doing what you're doing, it will get cleaner and become easier to clean with each rotation. If they don't want to keep a rotation, raise the price per occurrence, they might get the bigger picture then. Good work! Bare metal is the intended result!
  3. I have been using Jobber for more than two years now. It's a challenge to learn it at first but once it's figured out, I will never go back to outlook or google or yahoo. I have also tried Mhelpdesk and that was just a mess. With Quickbooks Online making constant changes, I am even starting to consider just doing my invoicing through Jobber since they have been beefing up and redesigning their software. I also tried Lawnpro online software, but I couldn't get it to match my needs. Some have had success according to some of the older testimonials, but not this geek.
  4. Just a tid bit of info for those that would like it: The plastic on glass light globes makes the globe "shatterproof". Like the windshield of a car, it has a film of plastic to keep the glass pieces from affecting the passengers. Much more expensive globe but also much more difficult to clean because the plastic is usually textured to help with the diffusion of the light. If the light bulb is incandescent, you will always have a yellow tint. Only natural daylight 6500k+ will resolve the yellow tint issue.
  5. I am looking for more of these screw/twist coupler's: They are 22mm female thread to the wand/lance with 1/4" male NPT to the gun. Not sure of brand, Karcher or Suttner or ?? They use two different kinds of o-rings. The top one is a high temp rubber ring. The bottom is a plastic-ish, flat, brown with beveled cut ring. Any info about what they are called/part numbers/websites to buy from or help in finding more of these would be absolutely amazing! Thanks in advance.
  6. I am looking for more of these screw/twist coupler's: They are 22mm female thread to the wand/lance with 1/4" male NPT to the gun. Not sure of brand, Karcher or Suttner or ?? They use two different kinds of o-rings. The top one is a high temp rubber ring. The bottom is a plastic-ish, flat, brown with beveled cut ring. Any info about what they are called/part numbers/websites to buy from or help in finding more of these would be absolutely amazing! Thanks in advance.
  7. Old thread, additional info. Think of it this way, if you fail to clean the fan and duct and everything else at every interval and the fan motor quits working a day or week after it was just cleaned: Who are they going to blame for the fan motor going out? Just my experience. Thanks!
  8. Add the 40% to the invoice and send them a new invoice, include a letter of intent to send to general collections if original amount is not paid by a certain date. If it's not paid, then just turn it over to collections. The additional percentage covers the cost of collections and you still get full amount for service. Collections also reports to all credit bureaus so it will be a negative mark on their entire operation. If collections takes them to court, you might lose 10%. My collection company charges 50% if taken to court. 90% is better than 0%. If I did that math right? Just my experience. Thanks!
  9. Old thread but additional info is to check out the spinners that Driploc has to offer. You can get just the spinner head and use your existing mosmatic cage. So far, the Driploc spinner has out lasted the mosmatic spinner and is a couple of hundred cheaper. Additonally, the arms can be adjusted to increase or decrease rotation, a slower rotation seems to clean better. Just my experience. Thanks!
  10. Great tip, Good idea! I'm curious though, the pressure washer holds water in the burner coils, the pump and connected hoses, if you use a water holding tank, that also contains water. How do you combat the addition of all that water to your drum of anti-freeze/coolant? At some point, the drum of anti-freeze/coolant will become to diluted to be effective or become to full, then what?
  11. I have been using Hadco Cling & Clean for about 4 years now. I wouldn't trade it for anything else. It can be purchased in drums for less than a dollar per gallon if bought in bulk. I just finished my first drum and it lasted almost a full year. I don't have to add anything to it if I don't want to. If I do, I just add water. The type and thickness of the grease determines the ratio. I use garden sprayers to apply the mixture. At first, I started out with sprayers that were not designed to foam but after some experimenting I discovered how to turn a non foaming garden sprayer into a foaming garden sprayer. The first foamers I developed relied solely on hand pumping. Then I began experimenting with how to add compressed air and modifying the wands and tips to control foam throw. I recently discovered pumpless garden sprayers. The pumpless sprayer I am currently using is working far better than any previous sprayer. The only problem with garden sprayers is that they are not designed to work at a very high psi. My first sprayers had a relief valve that operated at only 40psi. A pumpless sprayer is likely to not have a relief valve so I am being very cautious with the psi. If you force to much air in, you have a bomb. Depending on the quality of the connections, type of hose and quality of the wand, a higher psi could be obtained especially since pumpless sprayers are designed to be connected to city water pressures that could range from 40 up to 80psi. I use the compressed air "garden foamer" mostly indoors, however on occasion, I do use it outside on the exhaust fan and filters as needed. Most recently used the compressed air "garden foamer" at a Japanese Hibachi restaurant that has a total of eight exhaust fans and thirteen hoods. Even though it was freezing, the chemical, the "garden foamer" and the cleaning all went very well considering that was the first time the restaurant had been cleaned in the four years it has been open. Hadco Cling & Cling does burn aluminum, but if the metal has enough grease, the chemical will never touch the metal. The longer the chemical sits, the easier it is to clean. Just my experience. Thanks!
  12. First blog entry. Hope the photos and following words make sense! Step by step photos of how I made my own foamer. Probably not for the big time hood cleaners on the east or west coast, for me though, these little guys work wonders (after modifications)! The first photo shows most of the materials used in creating the foamer. The photos not included are the ones where I add a piece of 45 degree 3/4" elbow to attach the quick connects and interchangeable tips. Also, photos not included are the ones where I add an air chuck to the sprayer body so the "inside guy" doesn't have to hand pump, add a 1 gallon pancake air compressor from walmart. However, the red plastic fan tip that comes with the sprayer works just as well, especially for the guy headed to the roof.
  13. From the album DIY Foamer

  14. From the album DIY Foamer

  15. From the album DIY Foamer