Dan Stapleton
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Posts posted by Dan Stapleton
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Check out Racenstein window cleaning supplies. They'll send you a catalog. They have a lot of ext. poles, Unger included.
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A butyl degreaser. There are many brands. Professional grade are better and actually cheaper if bought in quantity. Some guys use Simple Green, Purple power (wal-mart) etc.
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aah aah aah hooh hooh hooh.(An ape?) Yeah I was asking Deck Bright Deck Guy. Get with it, man. He had mentioned in another thread that he was trying Readyseal for the first time, I was just curious. I do small decks for p.w. customers when I have the time and I was going to try r.s. on the next one. Thanks for the info.sup Dan,...Are you asking a specific person?? ..My opinion, not as easy to apply as soon allude. It is "easy" as in "difficult to make look bad", but to make it "durable", you have to apply very specifically, i.e. correct moisture, coats done in a properly-spaced way, etc. Done right, very durable, looks nice, and the easiest of all to maintain. Just don't buy into the "can be applied by a Monkey" philosophy.
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How was your experience with Readyseal?
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Javier told me he wasn't making a decision until Monday(yesterday) then I find out the decision was made last Friday. He never bothered to call me back. That, along with what you guys have said and my own opinion after looking at my local C.B. I'm glad somebody else took it.
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If, while watching a police chase from a helicopter camera you notice the dirty roofs and concrete and ignore the chase...
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Be careful using oxalic acid on brick. Try a butyl based degreaser (test spot). If you don't KNOW its not mildew try sodium hypochlorite. Do a search on brick restoration products.I am doing a 3 story 100 yr old brick house wash. All looks good except for black stains, about 2 feet wide and the full height of the house. These stains are only where the gutters (not aluminum) were at. High pressure directly on it does nothing, oxalic acid does nothing. Has anyone ran into this b4? How did you remove this? I think it is caused by the metal depositing on the brick over the years. Brick is very porous. -
Keith Bruce from KBK Graphx designed "Give your House a Bath". Why are YOU taking credit for this?Here are my new brochure and flyer that I designed (I used to be in graphic design.)Please let me know what you think.
Flyer
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Hey Don,
I appreciate it. I've got one about 5-6 miles from me. I E-mailed him.
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That was my thinking when I mentioned a discount. Some people don't agree with offering discounts but I offer package deals a lot.
I stopped at a residence in a very nice development I am planning on direct mailing to. The homeowner was out front. He seemed resistant to me even walking up. To make a long story short, I got the name and number to the hoa president who runs the community newsletter, the resident owns a quadplex that I will do in the future and his daughter is selling her house (which I bid when I left) Roof, House and Concrete! Met with the hoa prez. today set my ad up for the newsletter and scheduled the hoa's house and concrete for Monday. I offered both package deals for helping ME out.
I was gonna start a thread about this to let people know that you never know what a simple inquiry or any kind of legwork will get you.
Good luck with the bid.
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A lot depends on how easy or hard it is to get the paint off. For the pavers, if it is mildew and impacted dirt spray strong chlorine and housewash with a pump up. You may have to spray some spots twice. I do this a lot and never even have to pressure wash just pre-wet grass and rinse once they turn white.It's a lot easier and cleaner for the operator and usually more effective. Painted wood is pretty easy, usually. Make sure you coat all of the surface. Clean the landing first(if needed) then spray oxalic. May take more then one application. It's hard to judge price without seeing the job but I might throw in the pavers, create good will and have a good, regular account.
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And that it would be processed in 6-9 days.You should have known its fishy when the url address is "service"@ irs.govLOL
Rick Arrese
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I spray chemicals on everything then leave. Just kidding. I do. No roofs or lightning.
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Is there a Tractor supply? If not, Dultmeier on line. Ask for Carol Ivester if you call.
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Me too. Thats awesome.
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Thanks, Ken. I got a few more bites in the auto section too. I kind of diverted my thinking from polishing compounds when I tried my Jewelers rouge and it did'nt work. Enviroscam has some glass de etch that is basically the same thing. I'll try the glass compounds. Thanks.Dan, they make glass polishing compounds or any fine micro abrasive would probably work. Auto store. -
What is the product if you don't mind? I've been trying to remove overspray from housewash on my new truck's windows. I've gotten one reply in another section of this forum. Thanks.Jeff,I have used a product for polishing glass. It is a micro fine powder and really cuts through any residue. I realize this is not what you have estimated for, and it does require hand buffing......but if you need something that will cut through about any residue, I use this product.
I did a house a couple of weeks ago that had really large plate glass windows and they remarked that they could not tell there was any glass in the frame.
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I look at it as an opportunity for them to see what a good, professional job I do. Often, the ones that watch and SEE their home come clean will be the first one's to recommend you. I know what you mean though. " O.K. I'm spraying chemicals now "(That is actually the one time I will use the word chemicals) I'll need you to move. I'll let others take it from here. Might be fun to sit back and read the responses.
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I wear Frog Togs in the winter. Way too hot for me and Florida summers. Dickies shorts, T-shirts (logo'd, clean) lacrosse ankle high rubber boots, glasses, hat, disposable nitrile gloves and respirator on roofs and screen enclosures.
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And that you would do the same quality job next year at a reasonable rate.
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Not the black stuff. What Lance said.I pre-spray 90% of the time...Granted, I don't deal a lot with mold, but wouldn't pre-spraying do the trick? -
Exactly.It's pretty common that a surface cleaner will not remove tough black mold. When cleaning concrete with that kind of build up, the surface cleaner may only take up maybe 80% of the build up. The best thing to do with situations with that much build up is to clean with surfacer, rinse with wand then apply a thin layer of a strong concentration of chlorine to the concrete while damp, let dwell, and watch the rest of the black mold disappear. -
That stuff is way expensive. Even if it is effective. Call Sunbrite, Rowlett, or Pressure Tek just to name a few to get proven, professional chemicals for about 1/4 the cost.(Buy by the drum kit).
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Going steady. Thats crazy, Ken. Using terms like PressurePacker I don't blame you one bit. Well, thats ONE reason.Jon was just busting chops, he and I have become pretty close friends. We're not going steady or anything though.
My new brochure and flyer - take a look!
in Documents, Forms & Proofs
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I saw that the flyer at the beginning of this post was copied. I happen to respect Keith and his work. I don't want to see any of my marketing designs and wording that I pay for on someone elses literature. Would anybody? The graphic artist????..... It's a matter of Ethics (and legality).