john@AEC
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Posts posted by john@AEC
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My only "guarantee" is to turn up & do my best (results as explained)
gman201, mike movila and Beth n Rod reacted to this -
On 29/01/2019 at 1:26 AM, Beth n Rod said:Great video.
Just wondering if you have tried these brushes. 3 hole siding brush
Our guys love them.
RodG'day Rod, no I haven't seen that type of brush, thanks I'll have a look if I can find one.
I use this one https://www.busybee.com.au/product/wash-brush-quad-4-side/ (the 13 inch quad) as it's super soft, plus dense and has good edges for getting into corners.
Beth n Rod reacted to this -
I'm a '64 model (if you want to know how old that is you can work it out yourself - I don't want to know) and this is definitely a young persons game, especially in summer. I've had a few injuries over the years and am not 100%, so only a couple of years left for me - but I do love working for myself, being outdoors & doing stuff for people.
mike movila and Beth n Rod reacted to this -
Oops, I've forgotten how to insert the video, rather than just the link.... I'll get onto it right now
Beth n Rod reacted to this -
Sometimes "Softwashing" just isn't enough, so it's out with the brush.
And sometimes you just feel like showing off
Beth n Rod reacted to this -
G'day All, I'm setting up another downstreamer and see that the "operating pressure" is, in this case, 5500psi (pressure in system upstream of injector created by the small orifice inside the injector). So, as my pump is only rated at 3600psi, this particular injector is not suitable. An "operating pressure" of 3600psi or less is needed.I have got this correct, haven't I?I've been looking at specs and comments too long & my head hurts. Will more beer help?Beth n Rod reacted to this -
This is what one of the local manufacturers told me
You can high pressure clean your tiles they won’t damage the tiles but can remove some of the colouring of the concrete tiles but this does not affect the performance of the tiles. -
The final rinse is what really makes it, often requires a couple of go's as the silt on the surface, fine sand used for grip & oxidised paint will build up against the hose and only be visible when dry
Excellent job Rob
On 16/03/2017 at 10:38 AM, mike movila said:John what do you charge for cleaning a tennis court that size. I had a request one time and I did not get the job Client received a lower bid just curious. Thank you in advance Mike
Drainage and the size of the out of play area can take or add quite a bit of time... as can the amount of mould & dirt. I allow about 4 hours and 5 drums of SH for an average court, but my machine is only 7gpm. A lot of "cleaners" around here, and this is probably why you lost the job, can be cheap because they just use high pressure with no cleaning/mould killing products. As for my price.... my market is not yours, and my $ is not your $ either (I'm in Australia) so you'll have to work off your hourly rate + consumables etc
On 15/03/2017 at 11:18 PM, Beth n Rod said:Yes you do. lol
Rod
Cheers
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Hi Rob
Bleach is your friend as most of the problem is mould - If very dirty I'll use a strong mix (about 6%), if not I'll start at about 3%. Your s/cleaner needs to be between 1000 & max of 1500psi - don't be afraid of the overlap. Then rinse a lot, sometimes twice to get rid of all the dirt & paint (I use a 2540 at 7gpm)
https://youtu.be/Dn73yq9V0-c sorry about the link, I can't remember how to embed - i really need to get back here more often
Beth n Rod reacted to this -
If you are working for a homeowner there can be no way you can give an hourly rate. They usually don't understand the costs of operating a business.
While my business pays me a salary, I always compare the hourly rate I get paid to the hourly rate I would need to pay some other employee, and the hourly rate I could be getting elsewhere. But charge-out rate is something completely different, and not something an "employee" would easily understand.
My business model works on me being paid by the business for 52 weeks a year for 40 hours a week (2200 hours a year), but I can only charge out about 1200 hours a year (my business is just me, so I need to include running the business and maintaining the equipment etc, as well as doing the work) so, my charge-out rate for a 2 hour house wash (which has a free on-site quote and travel time to cover) looks obscene to the person packing shelves at the supermarket, or selling white goods in a warehouse. But so would their own charge-out rate.
While most other home service trades (painters, plumbers, carpenters, electricians, interior cleaners) in my area do give an hourly rate, or piece rate, a competitive and open market ensures that there is very little difference between charge out rates. Of course, this says nothing about their quality or efficiency.
:onthego:
John
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Some email correspondence
Hi JohnThank you for getting back to me so quickly with your quote for this work.I forwarded it to the Committee who have asked me to follow up with you a couple of questions:· Does this quote include the back fence and if it doesn’t, how much extra would that be?· What is your hourly rate?Thanks for your help with these.My replySorry, I thought (from memory) the back fence was timber so didn’t include it, but I’ll do it for nothing.I don’t usually discuss my hourly rate as comparing rates between contractors is very difficult. The charge out rate is dependent upon many things including the quality and efficiency of the equipment and techniques used.I never discuss my hourly charge out rate as (particularly) domestic clients want to compare it to their own pay rate, I'm even cautious with other building and home service contractors as this business requires on-site "free" quotes and my average job would be only 3 hours, while most others are the opposite.PS. I didn't get the job. Can't will then all, especially with committees. -
Brilliant work.
That F9 looks awesome.
All I can get over here is ol' faithful - oxalic and hope.
John
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G'day AP
Do you have "confined space" regulations in you state/county? as these may dictate the type of access required - possibly a tripod to hang a rope and harness from.
The concrete can be sealed with a concrete densifier such as this http://www.con-treat.com.au/densi-crete.html, it's a "colloidal silicate" that penetrates the concrete and reacts with the minerals to form a gel that fills in the air gaps. This type of product is much easier to apply than topical coatings.
Always great to see the interesting jobs!
John
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Over here I get it for between 55c & 65c a litre from pool supplies or hardware - just bring in my drums and fill up as many as I need from their bulk tank (always fresh as refilled weekly).
To compare prices- it is about 4 litres per gallon ($2.20 - $2.60 per gallon for chlorine) while diesel is about $1.70 per litre ($6.80 per gallon) and rising.
Still 65c/litre ($2.60/gal) at the pool shop, but up to 80c/l ($3.20/gal) at the hardware shop, while diesel is "only" $1.55 ish.
John
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No F9 available in Australia, we don't have access to half the goodies that you guys do in the US.
I am afraid we have to put up with using Phosphoric or oxalic.
High John, we spoke on the phone a number of years ago.
Cheers
Greg
Hi Greg, sorry about the delay in responding…. yes I remember, how's the late night mall cleaning? John
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And the same mechanic makes more work for me….
Same story - dipstick doesn't replace dipstick properly and underside of car gets covered in oil on trip home, oil then drips onto the garage floor.
This one was worse as the owner did nothing to clean it up - not even news paper over the top, and it was a couple of weeks before he could arrange a time for me to clean it.
I didn't bring the vacuum this time as it is in pieces for (pre-sale) maintenance, so it was out with the bucket and broom.
It'll look a lot better when the concrete dries.
The owner was very happy, which will make the mechanic/service manager happy which makes me happy (and paid).
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Mine are both UDOR as my local supplier is the importer - so great back-up (they changed to UDOR because the boss was impressed when he visited the factory and the parts are more reasonably priced than some).
And as Jerry mentioned LOTS OF WATER - PREFERABLY TWIN FEED.
John
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I just had a screw on fitting fail.
That's one of each in 10 years.
J
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G'day Tom
Do you pull the injector apart to find the problem?
I've had problems with the "O" ring either deteriorating due to the chemicals and have changed to the green and brown "O" rings (viton and teflon, but I can't remember which is which), or being unseated.
What is the ball made from? some cheap ones will corrode (they are chrome), but the s/steel and ceramic last forever.
Is the spring still OK? not bent or off-centre.
And as the others had said - flush the system daily - until all the suds have stopped and then some more.
Cheers
John
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Every month I have to clean this boat ramp - worse than the view is being interrupted by people wanting to use the ramp, I just have to stare wistfully as they sail off into the sunset. I should charge more for the pain and suffering :playful:
John
Ryan556 reacted to this -
Ya'll get some wicked weather over there!Not still typhoon season is it?
G'day Shane, yes, there's been a bit of wicked weather over the last few years, but nothing like your twisters - they are mind blowing, gotta feel for those affected by the randomness of the destruction. No typhoons/hurricanes/cyclones - a couple of months too late.
John
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One thing I like about this job is the ever changing view from the office.
Here's a recent view
Bowen Hills, Brisbane - looking over the CBD
How's the view from your office?
John
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G'day folks
I use the screw on/re-usable fittings for on the job & home repairs, but get the crimp on fittings done professionally for new hoses and repairs if i am in the neighbourhood of my hose supplier (a local hydraulics specialist). There has never been a problem with the screw on fittings, but they MUST be the correct ones for that hose (there can be quit a difference in OD between brands), and they are hard work to fit (I find filling the edges/corners helps, plus lots of silicone spray, and holding it in the vice) and as Scott mentioned - they are quite hot to touch because of the friction.
John
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Get some F9 on those rust stains, and it will look nearly brand new. The oil clean up looks excellent.G'day Scott, thanks. It would have been a great job if it was the whole 4 bay garage as there are a lot of old oil and rust stains, but alas, it was just clean up the oil spill. Plus, as mentioned, we don't get the job specific acid cleaners that you have, so make do with oxalic, hydrochloric, automotive rust converters, aluminium & s/steel brighteners and even h/duty bathroom cleaners.
John
Obtaining Residential Work In Affluent Areas? Help from someone with experience!!
in Residential Pressure Washing
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If you've got that much work in only a few months then "Well done" & give yourself a pat on the back.
As Mike said, it takes time to get a reputation, personal referrals & repeats. With time you will get to know customer concerns & be able to address them calmly.