Sending bypass water to grass?

[MMI Enterprises 289]

In situations of long hose runs and sporadic spraying does anybody send their bypassed water to grass or just let it run on ground? Surely there is no complications to the equipment in doing such. I planning on doing this while doing some gutter work at large complexes in order to not overheat pump.

[David O'Connell Jr. 14]

ours go to the tank

[MMI Enterprises 289]

I don't run tank (yet) other than small float tank. Sometimes it mentioned that even with supply tanks the bypass can get things hot in certain situtation of low flow.

[Lightning Gene 66]

I don't run tank (yet) other than small float tank. Sometimes it mentioned that even with supply tanks the bypass can get things hot in certain situtation of low flow.

The best way is get a tank to run your bypass water into. I have a valve on the water supply line I shut off when my tank is full and then twist another valve on my tank line and use tank water....No run off to the ground to make things messy....

[Celeste 341]

Seems like a terrible waste of water.

[Doug Dahlke 114]

I bypass to 300 gallon feed tank.

[John T 744]

Bypass it to a tank and if the water level gets to high then turn off the incoming water line. These days good American water is a shame to waste. Ok a little dramatic but why waste the water if you dont have to.

[MMI Enterprises 289]

Well what might the consensus be on how many gal it take to keep pump cool while running in a loop?..10 gal?. 50 gal?.100?.. only got about a gal looping around now so I pull trigger regularly.

[Lightning Gene 66]

Well what might the consensus be on how many gal it take to keep pump cool while running in a loop?..10 gal?. 50 gal?.100?.. only got about a gal looping around now so I pull trigger regularly.

If you are running off a tank feed what ever your machine draws from it will be returned to it running in bypass.Now if you are washing with your tank fed water line you need a decent capacity tank such as 200 gallon or else you will be stopping to fill tank back up all the time.....

[john@AEC 37]

G'day

Simple solution is to use a heat dump valve - or whatever they are called - when the water gets too hot (usually below the maximum that the pump can handle) the hot water is let out of the system. If set correctly you can run the pump all day with no damage.

Envirospec North 877-351-1238

It's called a "pump thermal protector"

[David O'Connell Jr. 14]

We are in Florida and NEVER have a hot water problem bypassing to the tank. Don't worry about it. If you have a float valve that adds water while you using water then the water is going to be replaced with fresh "cooler" water. Go with a tank about 100 gallons or so. It takes a lot of bypass to heat water.

BTW what is the GPM of your machine? <------that really dictates the tank size

[Chappy 138]

it doesnt take a big tank, you can even rig a 5 gal bucket with a float and bypass to it.

[MMI Enterprises 289]

Had a thermal protector off the far side of pump and it blew it's threaded cap and guts all over the place one time from a pressure spike back during a unloader malfunction. Yea I know it sounds like a pressure relief but it had a temp listing on it and pretty sure I cross checked it with a pic of one online. Guess I get a new one....

..Reef, ok so IF'n I get a tank I won't worry about heating things up. Been my suspicion but thought I better check. Machine is 5gpm. What I'll do for now to please the water worriers is to only pop off the bypass when needed and drop the water into 27 gal. chem tank/tote. When and if it fills I can just add chem and do some crete..

[MMI Enterprises 289]

it doesnt take a big tank, you can even rig a 5 gal bucket with a float and bypass to it.

what the float for?..can't disallow it to flow in as if it a regular float tank running off outside line. It'll blow up right?

[One Tough Pressure 580]

Kevin,

A float will shut off the water from the supply line so it does not overflow the bucket, tank or whatever else you decide to use. Nothing will blow up as the incoming water will only flow when needed.

Depending on the tank size and how long you leave it in bypass, you could overheat that supply as well. A 5 gallon bucket will help more than having nothing, but it truly depends on how long a period will go between your trigger pulls.

[MMI Enterprises 289]

Alan, The incoming supply line would actually be the bypass line in a secondary float tank situation at this point in convo. Once bypass tank is filled water has nowhere to go when the float valve activates unless it T'ed back in after main float tank to the pump suction line. If the pump suction line is only drawing from the main float tank it would indeed go boom. If both the main float tank (approx. 1.5 gal) and the bypass tank were hooked to suction line then it would hopefully draw equally from both which would allow the bypass float to drop enough to let bypass water come into it...should anyway, But why float it when all it is for is for extra capacity in a looped format? If it a closed container similar to an air reserve tank and but it is always perged of air than it good to go as it is looped in..

[One Tough Pressure 580]

Well then stop trying to complicate things and set it up like most everyone here does and you will have no problems or concerns. Trying to reinvent the wheel has no purpose.

Supply line with float is a line by itself. And the bypass from the unloader is a line by itself, that unless back yard engineered, should not be tied into the supply line.

It sounds like you want to put the bypass line into the main supply line to save hose and then when the float kicks in, the bypass line would shut off as well. Run two seperate lines independant of each other. the ony link between them is that they connect to the same tank. If you have one of those integral unloaders, then forget it.

[Craig 111]

If you seriously go that long between trigger pulls then get a remote to turn off the rig. You'll save gas AND water.

[MMI Enterprises 289]

Well then stop trying to complicate things and set it up like most everyone here does and you will have no problems or concerns. Trying to reinvent the wheel has no purpose.

Supply line with float is a line by itself. And the bypass from the unloader is a line by itself, that unless back yard engineered, should not be tied into the supply line.

It sounds like you want to put the bypass line into the main supply line to save hose and then when the float kicks in, the bypass line would shut off as well. Run two seperate lines independant of each other. the ony link between them is that they connect to the same tank. If you have one of those integral unloaders, then forget it.

Argh..sorry.. but some ya is about like pulling teeth.

It already said that I have a float tank. I aint trying to reinvent anything here. Essentially in a small float tanked unit the bypass can hit the suction line by way of a T (between pump and float tank) or hit the float tank and be almost the exact same thing. There is no checkvalve at bottom of float tank where it leads down to pump (via suction line) so when bypass water is added into that section, which is manufacture method not mine, it can actually go back up and mix with the float tank supply. Would be better to drop it into the actual float tank so it mixes with the larger body of water in my opinion rather than looping around pump. Basically that is what everyone does but with huge supply tank. As I said my float tank is small at maybe 1.5 gal. and I believe I need more safety cussion.

Recap for Alan:

I don't run tank (yet) other than small float tank.

it doesnt take a big tank, you can even rig a 5 gal bucket with a float and bypass to it. Here I assume jon meant a secondary bypass tank for additonal safety capacity.

what the float for?..

Nothing will blow up as the incoming water will only flow when needed. Then you contribute here to convo in apparently addressing the use of single float tank but without saying so or assuming I don't know what a float tank is or don't have one..Guess I assumed you were speaking to idea of secondary floating a secondary bypass tank

[MMI Enterprises 289]

If you seriously go that long between trigger pulls then get a remote to turn off the rig. You'll save gas AND water.

Could be 5-10-or more. Buildings are 2 deep and each move to new building will require relaying of hose lines along crete pathways so as not to burn grass. Then I am up the ladders to likely dry blow roof debri and hand scoop main gutter debri before hoisting hose/gun up to blast them. I do not want to go through whole complex twice in resetting ladders to get the dry debri and then doing the wet work. And I surely don't want to be spraying water up in air over my footing area or out over tenant traffic. Some the work will be just me and some with helper. Have to plan for the worst case of just me.

Complexes are new to me so I can only imagine how best to go about without constant travel back to unit. This takes serious planning unless yer a apartment handyman that has weeks and weeks to get such type work done at employee wages....Remote might be a good plan. Think my honda is all outfitted for one.

Hey maybe regular house water supply is better option.

While I am at it...who has the best tooling for fishing the downspouts or who has best method for that part?

[ECS MARK 19]

Kevin,

If you stop by our shop, I will show you how to remedy

the bypass problem. I suggest you just run abypass hose in to

your float tank. :)

916-638-0828

Easy Clean Systems

[MMI Enterprises 289]

Hi Mark...nice to see some local lurkers coming out the closet.. :)

Although we never met I do believe we've spoken before on a few things. I'll pm ya...

[Littlefield 65]

Kev, I agree with the bypass into a large tank...can run all day with no prob, also float in tank is nice, no checking on water level.