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gt2003

Pics of deck restoration to begin soon

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I ordered 4 lbs each of EFC-38, Citralic and a 5 gallon bucket of A/C sierra redwood stain this morning. Here is my plan, let me how I need to tweak it:

1. Sand upper deck using 60 grit paper and a random orbital sander. Bottom deck is about 5 years newer and very smooth.

2. Clean and brighten using EFC-38 and Citralic

3. Stain the top rails and floor by hand brushing with a 4 inch, china bristled brush.

I do have a couple of questions:

1. What is the best way to stain the lattice used on the top portion of the deck? I previously sprayed it with, of all things, a wagner power painter with the stain tip and it worked out OK. Is this acceptable? I would obviously cover the flooring first to preven getting overspray on it.

2. While using the EFC-38, I plan of using some type of deck brush to scrub it down pretty good. Should I use a power washer (approximately 1 foot away from the surface) on the lattice work? That would seem to me to be the easiest way to clean it.

That's it for now. The top deck is the one with the failed Oly stain on it. The never stained decking is the bottom portion. Here are the pics. The 1st two are the upper deck, the third is the lower deck and the fourth is where the stairs coming down from the upper deck (old/failed stain) meet the newer, lower deck. Please give any advice possible.

Edited by gt2003

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I know it would take me more than 4 lbs of cleaner to do that deck. But thats partly because it dries quick in the NC heat. We just use more cleaner to keep the wood wet

Spray the lattice with the wagner. You dont want to hand stain that stuff. We put tarps on one end of the rail when spraying from the outside to keep stain from coming through onto the house

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The approximate square footage of both levels combined is right around 350 square feet. That does not include rails, lattice etc. I chose the product amount based off info. on the RAD website. I plan on cleaning in the early mornings, like 6am or so to avoid the heat. Later in the day here it is usually 95ish and very humid. Not fun weather to work in but that's what I've got to deal with.

How much cleaner do you think it will take?

Will 4 lbs of Citralic be enough?

No Rick, I'm actually a Dietitian and begin a new job on August 4th so I'm taking advantage of the down time. I love to do home repair and other DIY projects as much as I can. But, I like to do things right so I try to find the best resources available when I do them. And, that's how I found my way here. To me, there is nothing like the reward of doing something and doing it right. It gives me a great sense of accomplishment. (both deck levels were built by me and my brother-in-law)

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Greg,

No Rick, I'm actually a Dietitian and begin a new job on August 4th so I'm taking advantage of the down time. I love to do home repair and other DIY projects as much as I can. But, I like to do things right so I try to find the best resources available when I do them. And, that's how I found my way here. To me, there is nothing like the reward of doing something and doing it right. It gives me a great sense of accomplishment. (both deck levels were built by me and my brother-in-law)

Good for you. That is great. I do the same thing. When you have the time, interest, and can find a good web resource, do it yourself.

There is a ton of info here on TGS.

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Depends on the lattice. Cheap lattice can break. The good - expensive, stronger lattice may hold up. When in doubt, use a brush to agitate the surface, and rinse, use the white tip and stay back. You can also use the soap tip. If the lattice is loose, don't hit it with the power washer. Some lattice is put together with staples, some with glue. Have seen both. If your lattice won't survive the process, consider replacing it. Sometimes that is easier....

Beth

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Thanks Beth. I actually sprung for "the good stuff" when I built the deck. I was amazed at how flimsy the cheaper lattice was. I've power washed it before (ignorance, close distance at that time, didn't know) and it held up fine. I've also got it framed in all the way around with 2x2's so it's pretty sturdy.

My power washer is nothing fancy or hardcore. Just a Karcher that my Dad gave me. Just one standard tip, 1.6 gal/min, 1650 PSI max. I won't get it super close, just enough to wash off the cleaner.

If I have any doubt, I'll use the brush just to make sure I don't destroy it. Thanks for the input, Greg

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I sanded the upper deck today with an orbital sander and 60 grit paper. Here are a few pics, let me know if this is what it should look like. Basically, I sanded board by board, knocking off all the raised fibers. I ended up taking off a good bit of the stain in the process.

One more question, If I clean and brighten tomorrow, could I stain it Saturday and have it ready for use on Sunday? Or, should I allow 48 hours for actual use? Let me know. Otherwise I've got to put off the whole process until Monday. Thanks, Greg

P.S. - I have not cleaned or brightened the deck. The only thing I have done so far is sanded the upper deck. Thanks again, Greg

Edited by gt2003

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I would have sanded it afterward but other than that looks like you got a good start. You may get some more loose wood fibers after cleaning that you may want to sand. If you keep the pressure low you should be alright though

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Thanks Charles. The only reason I sanded 1st was because Ken had suggested it a while back. If I recall correctly, he said the dust from sanding would be removed by the EFC-38 (RAD step 1). I've still got plenty of sanding discs left so I can go over it again if needed. Thanks for the input, Greg

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Ok, everything is off the deck and it's ready to go for tomorrow morning.

I have a question about what area to use the efc 38 on first. I'm thinking about doing the top rail and lattice work, inside and outside 1st. Once they are completed I would move to the actual deck portion. Is this reasonable or is there a specific procedure I should use? I think that's the last question I have prior to starting. Let me know if you can think of any other tips. Thanks, Greg

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Whew! The cleaning is done but it's about 95 out now so I'm holding off on the citralic until it cools off a bit this evening. I should have plenty of time to brighten it before it gets dark.

What is the recommended dwell time on the citralic (PT SYP)?

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OK, jump backwards a few days. I posted pics of the deck after cleaning and it wasn't clean enough. I didn't have time to order more cleaner/brightener so I went to the dreaded Lowes and bought the cabots deck stripper and brightener out of desperation. I completed that process yesterday morning and sanded the fuzzies last night. I stained today with the A/C sierra redwood semi-transparent stain. The results are alright. There are a couple of touch ups needed but overall I'm real happy. I'll do touch up in the early morning then post pics of the finished project mid-morning (11ish).

Here is one picture. You can see a few touch ups are needed on the lattice. I'll fix those before I post more pics tomorrow. Greg

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Ok, the stain has had a couple of days to dry and here are 3 pics that give you a pretty good idea of what it looks like on pressure treated southern yellow pine. Once again the stain is the Armstrong-Clark semi-transparent sierra redwood. I'll post pics there too in case some don't visit this thread.

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I hand brushed the decking and rails and it seemed to go on smoothly. The older wood really sucked it in. I didn't have any problem with lap marks. However, I wash brushing about 3 boards at once. I'd brush a foot or so on one, then another, then another then do the next foot or so etc. The hardest part for me was getting my cheapo power painter adjusted to spray the lattice. Once that was done, the brushing was easy.

The stain was pretty thin but almost had the color of chocolate syrup. I'm assuming these are the solids? If so, this stuff should last for a few years. Wish I was more accomplished so I could give you more qualified info. However, for a homeowner DIY'er it was a great stain to use.

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