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Chappy

week in hell

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Where was that?

I spent my week cleaning out a house where an old lady lived with 38 cats and 10 dogs!No kidding the place is a biohazard.2 30 yard rolloff containers of crap out of the house and the yard.When i say crap I mean literally pooh pooh ok.

The health department had to run the lady out of the building.you can't enter without a respirator.I sprayed bleach into the house and there was so much ammonia in the carpet it started to gas off the chlorine in a cloud.I had to get the water hoses and spray the clouds down.

So I really feel for you having to work where you were.

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It sure sucks to be you Jon...:)

I'm sure the job may not have been all that pleasant but by the looks of the scenery I think it could have been worse. It does look a little deserted though. Were you able to find Gilligan and the Skipper? Hahaha.

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Jon,

Sorry for you problem. I hope it all worked out for you. If there is anything we can do, please let us know. Have a Happy Holidays.

actually there is. When buffing out the furries I used a makita with the osborn brush and the defurring pads. After staining, it looked very splotchy. I have read about heating the wood too much when buffing. Do you think this was the problem?

Example below, See by the door? There are other areas where it was too heavily furred and I Thought I had them all but when I applied stain they really stood out.

So I have to go back and do some more work to remove the rest of the furries and try to fix the blotchiness.

Ideas?

post-4622-137772234801_thumb.jpg

Edited by Chappy

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Thanks Beth. Cleaning out the cookies should have been the first thing I thought of.

Anyway. Yes, I did go across the grain. Actually my helper, as I cant use the makita on floors anymore. Too hard on the back.

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That's the first thing that jumps out at me. It will be there until the deck is redone...

Always go up and down the board with the grain. Always do the whole board. Turn the Makita waaay down. I run mine on like 2....or 3... I have girlie arms.... ;)

Beth

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you can see in this picture the furries. I was really emberassed by it but I really thought we had gotten them all before we stained.

Actually the customer insists it is just the old stain. But either way it has to be fixed.

post-4622-137772234989_thumb.jpg

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I keep telling you Beth, a winter operation in Costa Rica!

Rick, Beth... Sign me up! We got snow down at sea level here in the SF bay area last week! Great skiing on Saturday though!

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Jon,

We have always had better results with using random orbital sanders with 60 grit paper when prepping ipe' for stain. Med - low speed and sanding with the grain seems best.

Do not use 'em but osbourne brushes may be a bit too aggressive for ipe'. And the Makita's, being a rotary buffer, go across the grain.

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Those do look like " OLD STAIN SPOTS". ! That stuff it brutal to remove and at the same time your pulping the wood. You can not tell if you totally removed a finish like that until you put a finish on. Hence; I will get 90% off or strip and leave it for 6 months to a year. Leaving it will show the remaining finish to be removed in 6 months and there will be a better surface to deal with cleaning and sealing. If you can not do this get a floor machine and make the floor even that way. Did I say I hate IPE! I Hate IPE! Ipe just clean it !

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Jon,

We have always had better results with using random orbital sanders with 60 grit paper when prepping ipe' for stain. Med - low speed and sanding with the grain seems best.

Do not use 'em but Osbourne brushes may be a bit too aggressive for ipe'. And the Makita's, being a rotary buffer, go across the grain.

Rick are you saying go across the grain because its a rotary buffer? And Why? I use the Makita with Osbourn's and have always gone with the grain. Both up and down each lane while deferring and changing directions of the surface contact from up to back. That Pic as Beth said, the first thing I saw was the obvious track path he took across the grain. I think and treat each board as a specific specimen and anything done anywhere to that specific specimen should be done to the whole.

Chappy did you use the Osbourn to "sand down spots" to pull any of the stubborn acrylic off while deferring? Would be my guess. Second guess you screwed the pooch so you could go back and spend a week NOT stripping an acrylic,,,lol.

Edited by MudDuck

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Rick are you saying go across the grain because its a rotary buffer? And Why? I use the Makita with Osbourn's and have always gone with the grain. Both up and down each lane while deferring and changing directions of the surface contact from up to back. That Pic as Beth said, the first thing I saw was the obvious track path he took across the grain. I think and treat each board as a specific specimen and anything done anywhere to that specific specimen should be done to the whole.

Chappy did you use the Osbourn to "sand down spots" to pull any of the stubborn acrylic off while deferring? Would be my guess. Second guess you screwed the pooch so you could go back and spend a week NOT stripping an acrylic,,,lol.

If you knew how bored I was the first time, I dread going the second. You guys have to remember I already live in the same climate, just a little farther from the beach.

Anyway, the question now is how to repair it. Should I re strip, then sand the whole thing again?

james, What kind of floor machine?

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Tell the customer that due to the nature of incompatibility of ipe and acrylic resins - that you tried your best - but there is still nasty contaminants that are impossible to get out of the wood unless you do what Jim says - let it age for a year. Then tell him you feel bad and will come back and do it again for 75% of the first price.

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You can use a floor buffing machine with 3m black pads. With Ipe the heavier the machine the better. Before you do any thing try and sand those spots and blend the WT. WT is easy to blend. How does WT do in that Climate ?

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You can use a floor buffing machine with 3m black pads. With Ipe the heavier the machine the better. Before you do any thing try and sand those spots and blend the WT. WT is easy to blend. How does WT do in that Climate ?

I didn't think of that - Jon, I did test spots of several woodtux colors on a ptp deck - and then went over and stained the whole deck. Those areas I did the test spots came out a funky orange when I went over it when I stained the deck. I sanded those spots down to wood - and did as Jim said, I blended those areas back in with wootux and fanned out with a rag - blended in perfectly....

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