Hd80 or EFC 38?

[GAPainter 14]

I went and looked at 2 Ipe decks for a lady today. She didn't know what was on it. She just said it was a Clear coat. She washed it last year with a pressure washer and did a number on it. I have done mainly new construction before besides a couple decks that I have been doing yearly with penofin and using wolman's deckbrite to clean it up. I am trying to get more into the "restoration" side and therefore looking to use more useful chemicals. I bought some hd80 and citralic but have not used it yet. My question is this. will EFC 38 be good enough get this deck ready for staining or should I use the HD80? Also I read that it may be better to use the oxalic instead of citralic on ipe?

There is about 730 total sqft of ipe. What sealer would you recommend for the easiest maintenance on ipe? AC, Ready Seal, or other? I have always used Penofin on Ipe and it really isn't worth the container it is in. I have some AC coming shortly to try out and am very looking forward to trying it.

Any thoughts on which would be the best chemicals to use and thoughts on sealer with ease of maintenance in mind? Ty in advance for any advice you can suggest.

[GAPainter 14]

I am trying to add some better pics, just having a bit of trouble

Edited April 7, 2009 by GAPainter

[fireandrain 39]

Keith,

You will finds LOADS of information in past threads that should help you with this project. I would go with the HD-80 at 6oz. p/gal. Based on the photos you provided, in whether you use EFC-38 or a stripper such as HD-80, you will need to plan on de-furring this deck once cleaning/stripping is complete. It should only require a light de-furring, being a hardwood.

Best of luck, but seriously, get friendly with the search function on this board. If you are serious about learning more about exterior wood restoration, that search bar will be your best friend.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

HD-80.

Beth

[plainpainter 217]

I'll be honest and say I think efc-38 mixed at 8oz/gallon and applied directly will make short work of that deck.

[GAPainter 14]

Just out of curiosity how fast could some of you strip and brighten the 730 sqft of Ipe? about half of it is the back deck , 2nd story with no access. The other half starts out at ground level with two steps and the back section is 2 stories up.

There are plants and/or grass around both decks. Thanks for any comments.

I imagine most of you will say a couple hours if that. I will be using a pump up for stripper and citralic (if I get the job).

thanks again!

Keith

[PressurePros 248]

With the right chem and application method.. in and out of there including brightening in less than an hour.

[GAPainter 14]

I see myself there for far more than an hour using a pump up. i am thinking with masking and pump ups ill be there atleast 4 or 5 hours.

[acegot 14]

Based on past conversations with you, your methods now, & being new, & striving for the quality you want to provide, I say you're pretty right on with 4 hrs. Use the HD 80 so your wasting any time. Strong 38 works good, but Penofin can be real hard to get off with even 38.

[PressurePros 248]

Here is why we would be so quick on this deck. I'm not advocating either stripper or percarb, that choices is yours.

Truck would roll in. Customers are told in advance to have everything off of the deck and have water on.

- Crew leader would check the deck and make contact with customer. Helper would be rolling out supply and pressure lines.

- Helper waters down plants and wets windows and siding.

- Drop downstream tube into stripper tank.

- As fast as the crew leader can move his arms with a dual lance, deck stripper is applied. I have found Penofin to come up very easily. That finish is shot so I would expect no issues. In addition there are no rails that have to be stripped.

- Within a ten minute dwell (about as long as it would take to coat the deck and then rewet all surrounding plant life) the deck would be washed with 800 psi leaving the nozzle. 60 degree spread. 20 minutes done end to end.

- While one guy is rinsing down all soap residue, the downstreamer is moved to a plain water bucket and run clean. Its then dropped into the acidic cleaner.

- Dual lance is again opened and acid is applied via downstream. While this is happening, crew leader is picking up 50% project cost check from homeowner.

- Deck and surrounding property are given a final and thorough rinse.

Both guys reel hoses and out they go.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

You have to love a deck with no rails....

Beth :banana:

[GAPainter 14]

Here is why we would be so quick on this deck. I'm not advocating either stripper or percarb, that choices is yours.

Truck would roll in. Customers are told in advance to have everything off of the deck and have water on.

- Crew leader would check the deck and make contact with customer. Helper would be rolling out supply and pressure lines.

- Helper waters down plants and wets windows and siding.

- Drop downstream tube into stripper tank.

- As fast as the crew leader can move his arms with a dual lance, deck stripper is applied. I have found Penofin to come up very easily. That finish is shot so I would expect no issues. In addition there are no rails that have to be stripped.

- Within a ten minute dwell (about as long as it would take to coat the deck and then rewet all surrounding plant life) the deck would be washed with 800 psi leaving the nozzle. 60 degree spread. 20 minutes done end to end.

- While one guy is rinsing down all soap residue, the downstreamer is moved to a plain water bucket and run clean. Its then dropped into the acidic cleaner.

- Dual lance is again opened and acid is applied via downstream. While this is happening, crew leader is picking up 50% project cost check from homeowner.

- Deck and surrounding property are given a final and thorough rinse.

Both guys reel hoses and out they go.

I can see why it is so fast with the proper equipment and systems in place. I have never downstreamed but would love to learn how to. I bought an injector from Bob @ PT, but have not used it yet. I would have to learn about ratios and such. I did discuss with Scott about the injectable stripper( powersolve). I think I read somewhere you were dsing hd80?

I take it you would not mask anything off on the rails or around the painted band on the outside of the porch? (maybe that is wasted time?) Is a helper just rinsing off Painted surfaces like that or is a 10 minute dwell not long enuff to hurt it.I guess with proper control you could keep most all of it from even getting on the band. It is a brick home so not to worried about that.

I definitely need to learn to DS or get something like a decker to apply. I won't be able to make money if I am constantly refilling a pump up. Do you sand Ipe. I am planning on sanding both decks with 60 grit(a quick once over hopefully). Do you still use wood tux or woodzotic on Ipe if you aren't against saying.

thanks,

Keith

[GAPainter 14]

You have to love a deck with no rails....

Beth :banana:

I wish I could only do decks with no rails. Honestly a lot of the decks around here are painted rails or wrought iron with maybe an Ipe cap or something. I am not looking forward to stripping rails although once I have a system I guess it will be alright.

[Scott Paul 164]

I did discuss with Scott about the injectable stripper( powersolve). I think I read somewhere you were dsing hd80?

thanks,

Keith

Ken, bought three 55 gallon drums of our Downstream Stripper last year.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

I see myself there for far more than an hour using a pump up. i am thinking with masking and pump ups ill be there atleast 4 or 5 hours.

What are you masking? Honestly, once water is applied during the wash it will be all over the place.

Pump ups are not that bad, used em for years before switching to powered pump units. 2 gallon and 3 gallon sprayers will help get the job done.

Apply HD-80 @ 3oz/gal and allow to dwell 15 minutes or until the wood turns uniformly black or close to it. Wash, and then neutralize as usual.

Rod!~

[GAPainter 14]

What are you masking? Honestly, once water is applied during the wash it will be all over the place.

Pump ups are not that bad, used em for years before switching to powered pump units. 2 gallon and 3 gallon sprayers will help get the job done.

Apply HD-80 @ 3oz/gal and allow to dwell 15 minutes or until the wood turns uniformly black or close to it. Wash, and then neutralize as usual.

Rod!~

I figured I would need to do something with the bottoms of the rails where it mounts to the decking. Is it really not necessary? I plan on having 3 pump ups. Two pump ups for stripper(myself and a helper) and one for citralic to start behind me while I am washing.

[A and J POWERWASHING 64]

I know this is about stripping but what is the best mix for deck that have a little mildew but is stained

[A and J POWERWASHING 64]

have no problems with deck that are dirt or non - stain but do not want to mess up people stain

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

I know this is about stripping but what is the best mix for deck that have a little mildew but is stained

Depends on the stain.

A percarb will work in most cases.

Rod!~

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Two pump ups for stripper(myself and a helper) and one for citralic to start behind me while I am washing.

Sorry to be critical of your method but until the wash is complete, splash-back from it will undo any neutralizing. Wash first, then neutralize.

Leaving any active product on the surface will lead to premature failure which on Ipe is short enough without the help of any chemical left in the substrate.

.02

Rod!~

[PressurePros 248]

I'm with Rod.. rinsing is the most critical part of a chemical deck cleaning. Make it thorough. If you end up going the downstream route, you have to be sure to neutralize as much as you can with water first.

[RPetry 564]

have no problems with deck that are dirt or non - stain but do not want to mess up people stain

Andrew,

If you have to clean off dirt, mold, mildew etc. without affecting an existing stain, bleach cleaning is a good choice. Mix with water to a 1.5 - 2% solution and add just a squirt or two of dishwashing soap. Make sure it does not contain ammonia.

Pre-wet the wood to be treated and spray on the solution. Allow to dwell for 10 or 15 minutes. For a deck floor, an easy, no pressure scrub with a soft truck wash brush works well. Hose rinse off. For vertical wood, a very low pressure, ie: dump tip like force, from a pressure washer does the trick.

[GAPainter 14]

Sorry to be critical of your method but until the wash is complete, splash-back from it will undo any neutralizing. Wash first, then neutralize.

Leaving any active product on the surface will lead to premature failure which on Ipe is short enough without the help of any chemical left in the substrate.

.02

Rod!~

I am not offended in the slightest. I am here to learn and appreciate every piece of information that I can gather. I would be interested to know what you are using on Ipe this year. I am not sure if that is not something you like to talk about?

Thanks,

keith

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Armstrong Clark! what else?

Rod!~

[GAPainter 14]

Armstrong Clark! what else?

Rod!~

CWF! Very much kidding.What kind of life are you getting out of AC on Ipe and is it a 1 coat finish for Ipe? If I remember correctly , Jake said 1 coat is all I should do for Ipe.

[GAPainter 14]

For those of you who deal with Ipe, Do you always do a full sand job? If so what kind of sqft/hr can you cover?