Bad deck stain job - Can you help me?

[Cegsway 14]

I have a cedar deck that is approximately 7 years old. A few years ago, I had it stained and the company used an unknown type of stain. It looked great for a long time. The deck is in a shady area. This year we noticed some of the boards had some rot. I hired someone to pressure wash, hand sand and restain the deck, replacing any boards that looked as if they needed replacing. The work up until the staining was beautiful. The replacement boards look great. Then we had him stain it with Cabot semi-solid deck stain in mission brown. Here's where the problems start. It looked like he wasn't using a lot of stain but the deck dried with an uneven finish. It looks blotchy and there are shiny spots. On the new boards, he went over with the stain twice to darken it and now those boards are completely shiny. Any ideas on fixing this problem. I called Cabot the first time and the woman who answered recommending leaving the blotchy parts till next year and then chemically stripping it and reapplying the stain from scratch. On the shiny boards, she is recommending using mineral spirits right now and then leave it until next year. My husband called back and spoke to a guy who said " it's a wood problem, not a stain problem, there is nothing you can do". This is a 1400 sq. foot deck with a gorgeous gazebo and bar built right in. I really, really don't want it to look yucky until next year. Any ideas to help?? Sari

[bigchaz 157]

Sari, your problem is not really with Cabot but the company that applied the stain. I would call them to fix the problem not Cabot. The new wood should never have been stained twice as newer wood often holds less stain than its aged counterparts. If possible it is best to do wood replacement before pressure washing so that the cleaning will help even out the new and old wood.

Stripping and restaining would be your best bet if you need it to look good now. I dont know if Cabot can be recoated, otherwise you may be able to clean the deck and apply a second coat of stain, but you risk overapplying on the entire deck and brining you back to the strip and restain option again.

Post any pictures if you have some, that will help.

[Cegsway 14]

Sari, your problem is not really with Cabot but the company that applied the stain. I would call them to fix the problem not Cabot. The new wood should never have been stained twice as newer wood often holds less stain than its aged counterparts. If possible it is best to do wood replacement before pressure washing so that the cleaning will help even out the new and old wood.

Stripping and restaining would be your best bet if you need it to look good now. I dont know if Cabot can be recoated, otherwise you may be able to clean the deck and apply a second coat of stain, but you risk overapplying on the entire deck and brining you back to the strip and restain option again.

Post any pictures if you have some, that will help.

I will post pictures of the deck in a few minutes.

The old wood was given only one coat and looks blotchy, streaky and has some shiny spots. What could be causing that? ... and how can I remedy that?

[Celeste 341]

Still sounds like applicator error! Pictures are going to be very helpful :)

[Cegsway 14]

[Cegsway 14]

[Celeste 341]

Ouch :( Definite over application - particularly since mfg instructions state ONE COAT. Applicator should never have tried to make the new & old boards match with anything short of a complete solid. The old wood, even with one coat was unwilling to take stain evenly - leading to the presumption that it may have been improperly prepped or over sanded. Minimum suggestion would be to follow the mineral spirit instructions or do a mild strip to see if some of the over application could be reduced to a not-shiny state and that is still going to be some work.

At this point, I'm not sure if I would agree with Charlie on going back to the original contractor unless he hasn't seen the deck dry and may be unaware of what he left. Have you spoken to him since the deck cured?

[James 624]

The application of the product is unacceptable . Tell them u are Lawyering up or fix it ! The combination of sanding prep, mixing new and old boards and the lack of understanding what to expect from the product when doing those things has lead to these problems. Just a little Faux pas !!!!

[Cegsway 14]

SO, if I HAD TO TELL HIM how to fix this, what should I say?

[James 624]

Have they been back to look at the job ? If your in the refinishing Biz u should no how to fix and refinish !

[bigchaz 157]

Wow! I see your concern, thanks for the pictures. Disgregard my earlier advice reagarding reapplication of the stain, theres already way to much on there.

If you do stick with this person (seeing those pictures it may not be the best idea), it needs to be stripped/neutralized and give an EVEN coat of stain. Was the stain sprayed? Areas under the rails should be tarped with drop cloth so you dont get an extra coat of stain on the floor when spraying the rails. Everything should be backbrushed to prevent those runs and drops you can see on the bar.

[Greg R 82]

The only sure way to fix it would be to strip it down and start from scratch. Cabot decking stains / semi solids overapplied will sheen up everytime.

[MagicMan 14]

Biggest mistake of newbie stain contractors...over application! When you stain, you DON'T let the stain sit and pool on the surface. Instead, you should always apply and wipe, apply and wipe. This is the fastest and easiest method to get uniform coverage. Simply brushing and rolling and trying to "drag" the stain around does not work...even though the manufacturers often recommend this. Stain is not paint. It soaks into the wood, instead of laying on top of it.

It looks to me like this contractor applied it very heavy and just let it sit to dry, without wiping the excess stain that did not soak into the wood. Again, you should always stain, and then wipe almost immediately (with a clean towel). Stain does not need to be on the surface more than about 5 seconds for softwoods, and 5-10 seconds for hardwoods.

They'll need to sand this completely focusing on the shiny parts until they match the rest of the deck. Then wash off all sanding dust. Re application should wait until next year, unless they sand off all the stain (which they should not do, if done correctly). Hope this helps.

[plainpainter 217]

Everybody here is so judgemental. That pos deck looks like it had white paint on it, as you can see strips of white between the boards - it's been to hell and back.

And to boot it is freaking cedar - that stuff does not absorb anything, you'll get the shinies with A.C. and if you don't 'overapply' you will end up putting so little it will

have no life. This is just a freak case of a deck - I wouldn't be so judging of the contractor unless I saw his/her other work.

[Beth n Rod 1,278]

SO, if I HAD TO TELL HIM how to fix this, what should I say?

If you have to tell him how to fix it, he has no business being on your deck.

Beth

[bigchaz 157]

It looks to me like this contractor applied it very heavy and just let it sit to dry, without wiping the excess stain that did not soak into the wood. Again, you should always stain, and then wipe almost immediately (with a clean towel). Stain does not need to be on the surface more than about 5 seconds for softwoods, and 5-10 seconds for hardwoods.

They'll need to sand this completely focusing on the shiny parts until they match the rest of the deck. Then wash off all sanding dust. Re application should wait until next year, unless they sand off all the stain (which they should not do, if done correctly). Hope this helps.

MagicMan, please click on "Settings" at the top of the page and complete you signature line.

As to the post above, I'm afraid you are a bit off on the proper method of stain application for decks. Where are you getting these numbers from? We aren't talking about furniture here, no wiping should be necessary on a softwood. No deck restoration contractor applies and immedietly wipes stain off. And sanding will not accomplish anything other than make a mess of a job that need to be stripped.

Edited June 11, 2010 by bigchaz
spelling

[Beth n Rod 1,278]

I don't think it is necessarily over application but more of a preparation issue.

The previous product may not have been completely removed creating penetration issues on the old wood.

The sanding either did not remove all the constituents of the previous sealer or/and the installer used too fine of a grit.

Fortunately, Cabot's is easy enough to strip but it requires the whole process be repeated including sanding.

Rod!~

[big mike 14]

As to the post above, I'm afraid you are a bit off on the proper method of stain application for decks. Where are you getting these numbers from? We aren't talking about furniture here, no wiping should be necessary on a softwood. No deck restoration contractor applies and immedietly wipes stain off. And sanding will not accomplish anything other than make a mess of a job that need to be stripped.

Absolutely correct. The deck needs a full restoration, and a better stain choice.

[Tonyg 14]

I don't think it is necessarily over application but more of a preparation issue.

The previous product may not have been completely removed creating penetration issues on the old wood.

The sanding either did not remove all the constituents of the previous sealer or/and the installer used too fine of a grit.

Fortunately, Cabot's is easy enough to strip but it requires the whole process be repeated including sanding.

Rod!~

I agree with Rod. I have over applied the semi-solid myself the first time I used it and had none of those problems. In my case the over application gave a very opaque finish with solvent leaching, mildew issues, and a very blotchy/flat appearance. It appears to me that the it was improperly stripped and then sanding only compounded the issues.

I would be curious what the original contractor did to 'pressure wash' it and how and what he used to sand it. Unfortunately the only 'fix' is to start over.