Holy Smokes! Ready Seal now < 100 grams/liter VOC

[RPetry 564]

Searching for an email address, ran across the following Press Release dated 6/5/13.

http://www.prweb.com/releases/2013/6/prweb10790900.htm

Last year, they changed the stain names. Ok, getting use to them. This year, they changed to metal buckets. Still like the old plastic. We've applied ~ 120 gals. of Ready Seal so far this spring. Had no idea the stain formulation itself had changed.

Looks the same, same viscosity, smells the same, coverage seems identical, and quickly penetrates into wood as usual. Fooled me.

If it lasts as long and maintenance is no different, I guess this is a good thing. Who says manufacturers cannot make a good exterior wood stain due to the current 250 grams/liter VOC regulations?

Yikes, at < 100, I think Ready Seal may be legal in that exterior woodie hell hole, Southern California!

[seymore 90]

That low VOC will the stain be the same as before?

Texas <------ no VOC changes :cool:

[RPetry 564]

That low VOC will the stain be the same as before?

Shane,

As I mentioned, we've been applying this "new" RS off and on for 7 weeks now. I could not tell any difference. And I've been using RS for about 13 years.

Don's quite a sharp guy and he has good people working for him. I would bet that any new formulation has been well tested before releasing into the market. They have built a good business over many years and they're too smart to jeopardize the product.

Texas <------ no VOC changes :cool:

Good for Texas! You Longhorns don't put up with much nonsense! But its getting harder as the Feds, Greenies, and P.C. crowd crack the whip.

[Jake Clark 17]

Rick, They have always been about 100 voc, or am I wrong? Jake

[Beth n Rod 1,278]

I think Adrian still loves his x-jet.

Beth

[RPetry 564]

Rick, They have always been about 100 voc, or am I wrong? Jake

Jake,

Not sure. I believe RS was compliant without change of product prior to the 250 g/l VOC regulations. An old MSDS sheet indicates 15% mineral spirits solvent.

If you read the press release in the link above, this is a further decrease in VOC content in the stain this year.

The current MSDS on their web site indicates a 9% solvent(?), described as "Distillates, Petroleum, Hydrated Light" with a CAS number. I am no chemist!

[Patrick Rhea 15]

Jake,

Not sure. I believe RS was compliant without change of product prior to the 250 g/l VOC regulations. An old MSDS sheet indicates 15% mineral spirits solvent.

If you read the press release in the link above, this is a further decrease in VOC content in the stain this year.

The current MSDS on their web site indicates a 9% solvent(?), described as "Distillates, Petroleum, Hydrated Light" with a CAS number. I am no chemist!

I see you have been using this product for a long time now. I just placed my first order with them and am hoping that the job turns out well. We are still new to the wood restoration side of this business. I have to strip, brighten, and seal a 2000 sq ft beast of a deck right out of the gate. Using f-18, OX, dry time then onto RS with an airless and some stain mops...

[RPetry 564]

... Using f-18, OX, dry time then onto RS with an airless and some stain mops...

Patrick,

Careful with the airless. RS is a very thin consistency stain, close to water. Dial down the pressure and try to get bigger droplets coming out of the tip. With a little wind, a RS fog may travel to the next county! If you continue with wood, consider an HVLP sprayer unit such as the "Decker". The PumpTec pumps are perfect for applying RS.

Don't go cheap on 1st application on a new job. Give the horizontal wood enough oil so it takes awhile to penetrate. With most woods, we apply 2 separate stainings on the horizontal wood for an initial application. Figure about 40% less RS needed for typical 2 year maintenance staining.

[Patrick Rhea 15]

We ended up not using a sprayer at all. We used deck pads on the whole thing. There is an area that had lap marks we need to figure out how to even out. A second coat was done there before a second coat was done on the rest of the area at customers request. An object had to be set there before the rest of the deck could be done during a remodel. How to blend in the lap marks?

Sent from my iPhone

[RPetry 564]

We ended up not using a sprayer at all. We used deck pads on the whole thing. There is an area that had lap marks we need to figure out how to even out. ...

Patrick,

This is using Ready Seal? In 13 years of using the stain I have never seen even a hint of lap marks, even on a hardwood such as ipe'.

Either the wood was not completely stripped, something was blocking penetration into the wood, or the stain was applied unevenly to the extreme.

Deck pads are worthless when using Ready Seal. As I mentioned in a post above, for a 1st time restoration, the wood has to be given a lot of oil. Deck pads hold little stain, aside from the first dip and 6" of application.

Much better to use a 6" natural bristle brush on a long, screw in handle, and soak the wood.

[Patrick Rhea 15]

The area was heavily coated two costs before any additional stain was applied to the rest if the deck, so the area is darker. The owner requested that this area be stained twice before the rest of the deck was done because of an object that needed to be set there right away for a remodel. The rest of the deck only has one coat of sealer still. So the area is naturally darker than the rest of the deck.. We are hoping that our second coat in the rest hides where that area stops / starts...

Sent from my iPhone

[seymore 90]

You can always trying to rub those areas with thinner if its a lap mark it should rub it out?

RS better change their slogan if its a lap mark ?

no pics?

[RPetry 564]

The area was heavily coated two costs before any additional stain was applied to the rest if the deck, so the area is darker. The owner requested that this area be stained twice before the rest of the deck was done because of an object that needed to be set there right away for a remodel. The rest of the deck only has one coat of sealer still. So the area is naturally darker than the rest of the deck.. We are hoping that our second coat in the rest hides where that area stops / starts...

Patrick,

OK, that makes sense. What species of wood? If a softwood, give it a week or so to allow to blend in.

[Patrick Rhea 15]

I will send a picture later when we get back to that job. But application if second coat on the rest "should" diminish the second coat stopping point. Some of the issue as I see it is the tendency to push more sealer into the dark area creating a third layer as you apply the second to the surrounding cedar..

Sent from my iPhone

[NAPWO 21]

Patrick, you are correct. With Ready Seal it is all about concentration level of product. You can do thse areas like you said and then when you apply the same amount in the rest of the areas it will blend itself. I have done many demos where I have written my name in Ready SEal on wood, even days earlier, and have blended it in. I believe you will be absolutly fine. I do know that if you hand apply the cut in areas and then spray the rest you can sometimes see a lap mark. You apply more by hand than when spraying is what causes this. Feather cut-in applications for this situation and you will come out great.