steven 37 Report post Posted September 5, 2015 Just a couple of pics of a project I am working on, this was some really old shakes that needed two fat coats of amber. you can see on the front where i left off on the second coat. 4 steven, Beth n Rod, RPetry and 1 other reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 RPetry 564 Report post Posted September 5, 2015 Steven, Very nice job. Are you buffing those shakes with 3M pads? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 steven 37 Report post Posted September 5, 2015 120 grit, every single one of them. seems like there was fifty gazillion shakes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 steven 37 Report post Posted September 5, 2015 Has anyone ever run a drum sander over a deck and had an issue with the nails rusting after? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 mike movila 78 Report post Posted September 6, 2015 Steven Very nice job how did you apply the stain brush or spray. Did you experience a little trouble with paint coming the window frames. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 steven 37 Report post Posted September 6, 2015 I ( well " I " being me and two other people " brushed it all in. 5 inch stain brushes. not sure what you mean by " trouble with paint coming the window frames ". Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 mike movila 78 Report post Posted September 7, 2015 Well I have to commend you for that it did turn out pretty nice. Remember some time I posted a thread regarding having problems with paint coming off when stripping u said u never have problems with paint coming off. I thought I saw some paint was off the window frame after stripping. Maybe it was my bad Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 steven 37 Report post Posted September 7, 2015 (edited) No you are correct, On this house I painted the trim also, so I power washed the trim to remove loose paint. And it was pretty old paint so it came off in droves. Edited September 7, 2015 by steven Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted September 7, 2015 Nice work!!! What kind of wood was it on that deck floor you sanded, and what kind of fasteners? Beth Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 steven 37 Report post Posted September 7, 2015 Beth I haven't sanded it yet, I do not think I am going to. It is a strong/ good shape pressure treated there really is no need to. I do not know what kind of screws and nails they used to anchor the deck boards and I am concerned about nail bleed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 RPetry 564 Report post Posted September 7, 2015 Steven, You have the tenacity of a saint. 120 grit sanding on shakes would put me either in the looney bin, out of business, or both! Looks terrific. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 steven 37 Report post Posted September 7, 2015 I get paranoid using 40 or 60 grit on cedar. specially clapboards , that low of grit can wreak havoc on wood. ( but I ended up using some and it wasn't to bad on these shakes ) It actually went pretty quick with three people. this was a big job for me,.lots and lots and lots of work. I was sitting there looking at my gear I have for this job and I was shocked at all the stuff I need to complete this. SO YOU WANNA RESTORE OLD WOOD HUH? good luck.lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 steven 37 Report post Posted September 8, 2015 Mike, I try and get the painted wood nice and wet before I put on the hydroxide. I also have control where I spray my mix so i try not to hit the paint with hydroxide, if I do get some on, I rinse it off. I also do not put the wand near the painted surfaces I.E. window frames, trim boards etc.out of all my house strips, only one time did I have to do some touch up because of removing paint and that was because I was sloppy around the window frames. I HAVE used to much oxalic and have had to do touch up. But most times I am careful not to let any hydroxide dwell on paint. I am pretty sure that 4 ounces shydroxide to a gallon doesn't even touch a latex that is in good shape. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 RPetry 564 Report post Posted September 8, 2015 I get paranoid using 40 or 60 grit on cedar. specially clapboards , that low of grit can wreak havoc on wood. ( but I ended up using some and it wasn't to bad on these shakes ) ... Steven, Check out the Makita 9277 buffer with 3M pads. A bit heavy using on vertical wood, but fast and efficient. Shakes do not require a firred mahogany or ipe' finish. May be a lot faster. Pads are available from ACR or other purveyors. You are only blowing off the "fuzzies". Some use Osbourne brushes, tried it, but never got the touch. IMO a lot slower than the Makita and 3M pads. Using random orbitals, we never use anything higher than 60 grit for any species of wood to prep for staining. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 steven 37 Report post Posted September 8, 2015 I gotta get both the Osborn brushes and the 3m Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted September 9, 2015 We have and use both..... each has a place. Beth Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 steven 37 Report post Posted September 9, 2015 I am going to have to get out of the stone age and get some faster equipment. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted September 10, 2015 A Makita 7" grinder/buffer will be a great investment in your ability to provide some great prep results. Expensive yes....but durable. Our have lasted many years and helped with hundreds of projects so far.The only thing you will have to deal with is occasionally replacing the cord (gets wrapped up sometimes) but I keep a spare in the bag the unit comes with. We have 4 Makita's and only 1 Dewalt. (the other died a horrible death and became parts for the remaining unit). Rod Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 steven 37 Report post Posted September 10, 2015 I don't mind spending for quality. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 YVPW 20 Report post Posted September 10, 2015 Steven if you don't want to put out $200 plus on a Makita you can get some actually pretty nice buffers at Harbor Freight. While I love Makita tools and have several, you can get 4 or 5 buffers for the price of one of them. I use HF buffers all the time. I use the Osborn brushes almost exclusively, every once in a while I'll use the 3m. Get the 4" and 6" 80 grit brushes, both have their places. With stripped wood on exterior surfaces (for the most part) you're trying to knock off the fuzz instead of sanding, you'll be amazed at how much faster you will be. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 mike movila 78 Report post Posted September 11, 2015 Steven I have used those measures and still had a bit of bad luck. Also I have to agree when purchasing tools you get what you pay for I have Makita tools and they perform magnifipcantly so far. Highly recommend them 1 Beth n Rod reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 steven 37 Report post Posted September 11, 2015 (edited) I will be purchasing the Makita. That unit seems to be the choice of everyone on these boards and if that isn't telling me to buy it then I don't know what would. I would not buy much of anything from harbor freight. cheap = cheap. Edited September 11, 2015 by steven Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 RPetry 564 Report post Posted September 12, 2015 I am going to have to get out of the stone age and get some faster equipment. Steven, A huge time/labor saver for us is Decker 5'er (or other similar units) for applying stain. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 steven 37 Report post Posted September 12, 2015 do a lot of you woodies use a sprayer, Deckster or otherwise? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 RPetry 564 Report post Posted September 13, 2015 do a lot of you woodies use a sprayer, Deckster or otherwise? Steven, I would guess, at least those of us that specialize in wood restoration. May depend on the stain you predominantly use. We, almost exclusively, use Ready Seal stain. That unit picture has never been used except for Ready Seal, and is ~11 yrs. old. Until this year, never flushed with a solvent. Other stains should work well. A/C should be fine, but I'd clean out with mineral spirits periodically due to the linseed oil. It dries and can film on parts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted September 13, 2015 We used to use a decker for applying stains.Problem was the seals would wear out fast and you would have a leak or drip below the pump onto the surface unexpectedly and thus a clean up issue.I don't imaging those using light bodied stains like ready seal or twp for example would experience any issues such as we did. We only use them exclusively for applying chemicals.As for applying any coating we use Titan sprayers. Rod Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Just a couple of pics of a project I am working on, this was some really old shakes that needed two fat coats of amber. you can see on the front where i left off on the second coat.
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