Applying ReadySeal?

[ACSTravis 14]

Hello all,

I am sealing my first deck tomorrow with dark brown ReadySeal and I just have a few last minute questions. First, I heard that it will take two coats, so how long after the first coat is down can I apply the second coat? Second, does everyone spray the spindles, and if so how do you keep overspray to a minimum? I am using a Decker 5'er by the way. Also, what PSI should I spray it with using the Decker? I think that is about it. This first deck has been an adventure. I had to strip Wolman's F&P off of it and brighten it, but it has turned out great. Here's a couple of before pics.

Thanks,

[ACSTravis 14]

And after pics........

[Russell Cissell 65]

Travis

Applying Ready Seal is a breeze. It looks like you've done a great job with the cleaning and prep work so You shouldn't have any trouble at all.

The idea of applying two coats is to saturate the wood with product. In theory the longer you wait between coats the better. The longer you allow the first coat to soak in, the more product you will be able to apply on the second coat. Some contractors will actually come back a day or two after the first coat and apply again. Other contractors will apply two saturating coats within the same day.

Application is a matter of personal preference but clearly spraying the spindles will save time. Overspray on most surfaces is very easy to remove with just a damp rag. To protect porous surfaces such as the brick in your photos you will want to somehow mask the surface.

I like to use hand held paint screens. Some like to use plastic and tape. Others will simply brush out the area near any porous substrate and then pick up spraying from a safe distance. Because ready seal will never overlap, it is easy to blend in your stop/start point. When you spray the rails themselves, choose an angle that minimizes the gap between the balusters. For instance looking straight on at them reveals the greatest gap.

You can drape tarps over the rail to catch overspray, some contractors will staple burlap to the tops of the posts so they can flip it to the opposite side from where they are working. Burlap can be purchased in long rolls or bolts.

The Decker comes in two different orifice sizes. You can easily differentiate by checking the GPM on the pump. The pressure that works best for you will be subject to the GPM of the pump and how fast you like to move. As a rule of thumb, the higher the pressure the more defined you pattern will be, however the higher the pressure the easier it will be for the wind to disrupt your pattern. It doesn't take long at all to dial in what works best for you.

It looks like you are doing a great job so far. I have no doubt you will have that deck looking great when it's finished.

Best of Luck

[JFife 14]

Ditto Russ's advice Travis. Great advice on the burlap, never heard that before. Three keys to RS: 1) moisture below 12%, 2) saturated surface, and 3) the longer you can wait between the saturations the better and more durable it will be (obviously, within reason). The best (which is not conducive to deck restoration, but for ultimate durability) would be to saturate, wait a week or so, and come back and re-coat. Since it is highly unlikely you want/need/bid/choose to do that, I'd apply a medium coat, and then come back and do it over again immediately. This would allow for about an hour between coats.

[RPetry 564]

Travis,

Above is all very good advice. With the Decker 5 and Ready Seal, I run the pump between 25 and 35 PSI with the adjustable wand. Folded heavy canvas tarps are stapled to the handrail, and draped over each side. Hit the spindles at a 45 degree angle each way, with a brush in hand to even out. This way, the outside surface gets a double dose of stain.

Jon Fife may be right, waiting a week or more may be better, but the first time a deck is being done with Ready Seal, I try and get two "flood" applications down on subsequent days, which is sufficient. As he mentioned, just make sure the wood is dry and do not go cheap on applying enough stain.

[James 624]

Appling Ready seal is directly related to the specie of wood ( soft or hard) and the age. And if is vertical or horizontal and is thickness. Knowing how much per sqft of oil it wll take is key to knowing weather

to spray or to brush??

[Rodney 14]

Since Ready seal is the topic of the thread I have a question. I have a screened in porch that has a 2x4 that runs along the bottom of the deck where the spindles are attached. The screen is butted against the 2x4's on all three sides. The only way I now how to stain the outside of the 2x4 is through the screen because I do not want to take the screen off. My question is how will ready seal react with screen. Can I clean the sceen after the wood dries with mineral spirts? Any suggestions

[Tim McCulla 14]

Rodney, That sounds like it would not work. In my experience you are going to do your best getting RS off before it dries.

[Tracy Handl 108]

Rodney,

I have been in that exact situation b-4 and heres what I did; I sprayed right through the srcreen. I had no ill effects to the screen. Finish your whole job. Don't allow the RS to dry in the screen, as others have mentioned, as it will be tough to remove then. Maybe let that area be the last place to finish. Then once everything is finished, rinse the screen with water. It will spray right out, and because of the nature of Ready Seal, you will not harm the finish. You may want to sweep off any puddling so no spoting can occur due to oils floating on the droplet and being left behind when the drop evaporates. It should really be easy to finish your project. I know of no other product you can do this with this easilly. Have fun! Call me if I can be of any other assistance with your Ready Seal applications. 877-578-7759.

Tracy Handl- Sun Brite Supply

[ACSTravis 14]

Okay, back to the original thread, I finished the deck, but when I took the plastic off the brick house, some readyseal had gotten on the brick. I spoke to Pierce with ReadySeal and he said to use Fast Orange hand cleaner, so I am going to try that tomorrow or the next day, but if that doesn't work, does anyone have any other ideas that I may be able to try out?

Thanks

[seymore 90]

Xylene and a stiff brush has worked at times but you have to try and always clean up ASAP so the oil doesn't soak into the porus bricks.I've also heard of Sodium Hydroxide strippers used or degreasers IE:Mean Grean,Simple Green,Krud Kutter etc.

[James 624]

Dried oil on screens = nightmare.On Brick I use Acetone or what Shane said with X. You have to do it a few times because the color has dried on the brick. The brushing will loosen the little transoxides

[Rodney 14]

Travis

Didn't mean to side track your questions. James can you pm me if

you have any suggestions about screens. Or anyone else.

[James 624]

Wipe the screen as your doing it. Like Tracy said, Don't let it dry.

[Deck Guy 14]

Okay, back to the original thread, I finished the deck, but when I took the plastic off the brick house, some readyseal had gotten on the brick. I spoke to Pierce with ReadySeal and he said to use Fast Orange hand cleaner, so I am going to try that tomorrow or the next day, but if that doesn't work, does anyone have any other ideas that I may be able to try out?

Thanks

Next time, try just leaning large pieces of cardboard against the house when you're spraying in a particular area. I use cut up refridgerator boxes which give me roughly 2 1/2 x 6 foot pieces. Do a board or two near the house by hand.

[clean kentucky 14]

Sorry that I have not touched base with you Travis,

I have been busy doing houses and driveway's. I have did about 12 houses and 4 driveway clean and seal jobs since last week (three aggregate and one paver) keep in touch though. How far are you from Elizabethtown anyway.

Doug Baker

Baker's Pressure Washing

270-268-1694

[ACSTravis 14]

I'm in Florence, which is 1 hour north of Lexington and about 1 1/2 hours away from Louisville, but I don't really know where Elizabethtown is. See ya