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One Tough Pressure

And the burner stays on why????

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So when I let go of the trigger, the burner stays on. I can still shut it off with the switch though.

I pulled the fuel solenid power plug and it went off, so I know the fuel solenoid is not stuck.

I replaced the pressure switch as I looked into the old one and it had moisture, so I thought it was a no brainer that the switch was bad. Guess that was not the real deal.

Also the Unloader still goes into bypass and is not bogging the engine down.

Any ideas on what this is? I learned how to fix the not working burner, now I need to fix the always on burner.

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I checked the pressure switch with a meter and it functions as normal, and is wired right as well.

I pulled the cover on the pressure switch with the machine running and the piston is slightly engaging the switch while the machine is in bypass.

I opened my steam valve which is set up out of the other high pressure port of the pump, and this disengaged the switch.

So while the machine is in normal bypass it creates enough pressure to kick the switch which leads me to believe it is a mechanical problem and my finger points to the unloader. Not sure though, but seems logical on my end. (Read that as always sleep deprived, so anything makes sense)

Have to wonder if the engine does not bog and their are no leaks, then where is the water going

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Alan,

Typically when I see this problem it is the pressure switch. With your ohm meter check the wires coming off the switch with it still in the case. The plunger sticks up slightly and leaves the switch activated. The reason I say this is because all the other components fail causing an open circuit not a closed circuit like you have.

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Hey Alan,

Once you resolve this problem, please share what the problem ended up being and how it was fixed. This kind of information can help others with equipment issues.

Also thank you to both Paul and Bob for chiming in here offering suggestions.

May it be resolved quickly and at a low cost! Good luck!

Beth

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Well, I have been dealing with this problem since November and just make sure that I do not let go of the trigger for more than a few seconds at a time.

I had a 600 psi difference before and after the coil, so I cleaned it up. Problem still there, so I just dealt with it a little longer hoping for a miracle. The unloader had good pressure and bypassed fine, but I went ahead and changed that out too.

Problem is still there. I talked to Mark at Easy Clean and he believes the excessive pressure in the coil before cleaning may have broke the spring in the pressure switch. I looked into the old switch (I save everything) and he is right. The spring was broken in four pieces. The newer switch looks okay on the inside, but a new one is on the way.

Could the pressure that broke the spring, have weakened the new spring?

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It just about has to be the pressure switch. Maybe try a higher psi switch.

One thing I have done to make it through the day when a pressure switch has gone bad is to let off the trigger for 3 or 4 seconds (let the burner stay running) then pull the trigger till the thermostat cuts the burner off and then let off the trigger again.

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usually the problem is the micro-switch is bad. Change the micro-switch, saving the old switch. If the switch has a soft feel when tripping the switch, it is bad. If it has a nice snap to the action, it may or may not be bad. At 2:00 AM, I do not have time to check the swithc w/a meter. Besides, my meter normally stays in the Sprinter, not the Step Van. The spring can be broken, as you found out. the pin can also wear the groove in the plastic housing, then it may hang up. When it hangs up, the switch may not come on or it may not shut off. Sometimes you may see water in the swithc housing, if so, you definalty have a problem w/the pin. I keep extra micro-switches and complete pressure switches in the parts box. I also keep hi-limit switches in the van and extra terminals. It is easier to change both switches, than take time to trouble shoot.

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It was the switch. I had the spring from the switch tested and it only rates for 350 psi. So either it got weak right from the beginning, or it was a lemon to start.

Anyone want to buy a low psi pressure switch?

Pressure switches can be ordered in varying activation pressures. Yours was probably working as it should for it's pressure range.

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Does PA make a 350 psi switch?

Do they sell spring kits for the switch assembly? If I can replace the spring, I am good with this switch, if not then I have more trash on my hands.

Yes they do make a 350psi switch (may not be exactly 350psi as I don't have any catalogs here at the house but I know they have one close to that)

You may be able to go to a industrial supply house and see if they have any springs of a similar size that would be a little stiffer. If it is too long you can cut it down.

There are higher psi rated switches though. You probably need one rated at about 500- 600 psi.

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There are higher psi rated switches though. You probably need one rated at about 500- 600 psi.

I have the 580 psi and that is what I normally use. I am just wondering about the springs so I can make use of the 2 "bad" switches I have. One with a weak spring and the broken one. I will now save all replaced parts so I can piece them together and save a 50 cents.

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