MMI Enterprises

Sorry...I meant to say threw together with errors or outdated info. So 'why can't' is cause ya can't do one while doing the other. Now if ya can throw together site with solid info that works towards bettering the field then great and I say CAN.. :) I respect your candid response in stating how that site came about. As consolation I can say after reading every page you had up that I found plenty of solid stuff along with the bad that is worth keeping. Pretty good writing if ya ask me... If you were to go back and change somethings and offer up more facts of why some may or may not use this or that chem or choose this or that equipment, etc. then it could be good work. Regardless though of what ya end up with there will always be those that take issue if their way is not deemed the right way. Others may take issue if what is being spoken has room for personal choice yet those choices go unmentioned. Favoring one process or one equipment, etc. without mention of another rubs people wrong way I suppose in that it just doesn't point to homework having been done. You know what they say about pleasing all of the people all of the time..just can't be done. Much in cleaning is subjective. To head things in right direction I'll address the muriatic as not all the places it was brung up contained disclaimer info of what it should generally not be used on and even then when it's use was cautioned there was not much info presented as to why. 1. muriatic is not metal inhibited so it eats metal found in many machines (that said we do have application equipment suitable) 2. muriatic eats/etches cement which can expose aggregate and can also quiken failure of reinforcing metal within by way of damaging it's protective oxidation through it's ph lowering. ..Both aspects can lead to dangerous disaster at grand scale if not respected. When it is used on concrete its use is part of a more indepth restoration procedure involving prep for certain coating applications. Such involves some understanding/agreement of material loss.

granted..now if we could flush the potty posts we could get back on job.:)

yea but you said it like twice hence implying other perhaps more gutter minded methods that probably only James himself could dream up?.. :)

I like both the hd or dvd methods in terms of both storage and use. If a dvd is made as you go then you wouldn't really have to have backup drives/raid. You can throw dvd's to yer kids like bones or scraps to play on whatever player they care to use. The browsing/finding titles via electronic methods without leaving easy chair though is great stuff. Joel, are yer titles all sorted by catagory or various other ways like On Demand cable menus along with title info?

Well this salty dog shows his deck some salt every day and it is same color 30 years in....lol :lol: ps- not sure who here is more in the gutter.. lmaof

Gray or unfinished strip is just case for another go at it with same but stronger process. Far as yer question's...yes, should be suitable for staining but obviousley not in all cases such as woods or stains that may not react well together. I don't see the wording 'extract stuff out' as pertaining as for of course when we neutralize we are meaning to just change the ph. Of course when the solvent getting the neutralizer in there is water then we can have them other issues of darkening or bad stain response. Besides that, what else could be issue other than sanded area taking stain differently if not better. That said, differently doesn't necessarily mean superior.

haha.. I wear overalls, hats, and bring my own porta potty..:lol:

Perhaps better solution there Matt would be to not use RS on redwood unless it is the redwood only version or move yer neutralizing process to being only after sanding. Situation seems good example or basis as well for full on sanding or defur compared to only spotting. It's like obviousely sometimes our wash methods don't always actually remove the dead wood that can actually contribute to making for a pathway the natural extractives/tannins can travel. Mushy dead stuff on top of some woods act like a sponge able to spread the deep stuff at some level but cutting all the way down to fresh wood via sanding makes for like a pure concentrated bleed if that makes any sense right out of vein. In case of redwood it is known that the tannins will bleed from just water alone hence the lighter double neutralizing many us discuss. It is not a cure all though and relates more to finish being suitable or not in my opinion. I say it cause I've tested it. ps- btw, first neutralizer application could have indeed reached those areas before you sanded them and it would not have mattered..you made a better conduit whether it wet or not.

Pressure Washing Guide, how to Clean a Deck Dude!.. bleach potency is not so cut and dry.. and 3600psi for deck work is just plain bad advice!! You should use that bleach to kill yer article advices for time being!! :eek: Questions About Pressure Washing What chemicals do I need to purchase? Are they expensive? Holy Crap mang!.. that is HACK advice! Mudduck, umm er I thinks it is all about the google ad money and goal was to get everyone viewing article pages... Loius you should explain yerself..do you have real intentions of bettering this field or is it about makin money off a website you through together? I fear in old days you'de be drawn and quartered for publishing such straight forward info as being sound advice upon the public. Hell you may even be held liable if some unsuspecting home owner takes yer advice and kills their deck or concrete. Least here most advices are clear that they are just what we do personally and is open to opinion.

Well yea we now know Rod sweats alot on decks..lol..What things you done on a deck that top that?...hehe :)

Louis, Welcome to one of the most informative/professional forums for pressure washers available. Sorry could not recognize who you were in the thread you linked us to and I see no post #32 so can't really comment on your statements there. My opinion on the poll questions though are that if you hang here for awhile your poll questions in the future won't read the same. As they are now they seem to be coming from someone new to the field fishing to confirm assumption. Lack of experience and/or understanding of the mechanics, costs, profitability, history, etc. in the field or craft doesn't have to be shown as such a prideful event as this thing here. All one has to do is ask actual specific questions to this community of professionals in order to receive.. You seem motivated and have shown enough smarts to come here so...Glad you have arrived..good luck! :)

I feel yer pain..Here is the little one I use:Werner at Lowe's: 3-Step Project Ladder With Platform Reasons I like it: small and lite for under pergola, A frame shape gets you closer than standard A frames, large step allows for maneuvering without slipping off. Paint shelf and how close it gets to wall is good for taping, stapling, clamping (or what have you), as well as brushing the trim in a straight on position. I don't care for standing sideways on my larger combo ladder.

Does that really hold true though what with the organic nature of sap and turps?

See everyone may look at things different... Like perhaps James means to imply that since the wood is already wet and pores occupied that the acid can't get in hence the 'too wet' statement. Think he also means, as did I, that it allows for tannins' etc. to move around. Is similar when carpets are cleaned and left too wet.. ya get a whick back effect of any dirt or chems left behind. In such case of carpets this makes for a dirty look or a resoiling issue due to sticky chems. But on the wood I picture it that when you have an amount of water/chemical needing neutralized it doesn't matter as far as wood being wet already. Whether pores or occupied space in general the applied acid will find it's way in to all parts of what is already wet and mix to point of neitralizing just as if it was an open container with straight liquid. It's gonna happen, it's gonna mix without stratifying or some such because it is the same solvent in the form of water. So in my mind 'too wet' only applies to the tannins/extractives, or left over chems moving around.

No..that just means you've cut air flow into an engine that is already warm enough to opperate without a rich mix. It should die when choked so do as everyone has said by cleaning it all up. Hunting is usually a too rich mixture but your other symtoms when dieing show as lean. I really think your trying to run an engine that has had tinkering done to it in order to compensate for misadjustments elsewhere. See after main problem of low flow is found you may then end up really really rich as that is how someone adjusted it or how it's internal leaking past the main jet might present. ...clean carb,lines, filters....confirm good gas flow, adjust float, make sure main jet is seated and not leaking, adjust mixture, slap back together and fine tune. Hey people, what a rebuild kit for that carb run..like 20 bucks or what?

Dan, I don't get it.. you surely set up with good DS system and have access to bulk acid. Why you not just drench them decks quik and easy? With the redwood I sometimes hit with a second lighter application right as it almost becomes dry as sometimes the alkalines or extractives leach up or move around and sometimes show an area as a tad darker. Think this transpires due to fact I usually do first application while wood is good and wet with main rinse and it allows acid to really get in deep. I would ask you does the deck do an immediate flip flop to lite color when using a light pump up application? I like to know that when I am leaving a job that when I return it will have still been benefitting from brightening procedure for awhile due to getting it deep enough.... Main thing my pump-ups carry is extra strength stripper for spot work or laq for stamped crete. In my opinion, a rewetting of a sanded or defurred deck is only going to risk raising grain hence allowing for some uneven staining.

Have to totally agree here..unless it's real hot out then sand or defur can also happen first trip. I've noticed it can be expected as that is what has been pushed or talked about the most in respect to refinishing a deck. Buyer don't care if it is more labor intensive or less profitable by way of being an extra step in a wash methodology. Some apparently think it is the best and only step involved and are leery of washer method even being involved. Hows that wrok out compared to say turpentine?

Costco one shown in video is not the one I bought from them here. Same look but has different hinge and extra 5th step...goes to 21' extension or 9.5' A frame of various angles, or makes a mini scafold. Safety First might be the actual brand. Last I looked they now carry the Little Giant brand though and although it is more versatile I don't know that it is as sturdy as the one I got when in it's extension ladder format. Never had pleasure to test out but they look flimsier anyways to me. Only other ladder I need for deck work that happens to get used most is a little 6' Werner step ladder from Lowes...has the big plastic steps that make it easy to turn around and shoot stain from. Between that, my height, and extension wand I can get underneith of most any pergola, porch, or two story deck. Constant moving of a heavier combo one around under the raised works is a pain compared to the little step type.

Celeste, Oh fer sure when talkin such massive collections now being discussed I can see the point. I'd go with that popcorn/raid setup anyday if I had that many. Is there even that many good movies worth having hard copy of really? Joel, Sounds real nice setup! Before I buy though I have to get me a new home audio receiver and might get me a Dishnet HD receiver and go back that route. Can ya share yer transcoding or dvr to server setup?

Looks like a superdeck strip on that pergola... it come off rather easy? I'm drooling though...a quik 500 lin fence job like that would be nice.... guy today wanted fence done for 30 cents stain included. Anybody else still getting wood jobs?

Have you tested that both cylinder are firing? Pulling either spark wire with insulated plier while running should show running difference. Any word on a bowl drain or no? Is yer gas supply filtered?. If not, install one. Is tank elevated to where yer gravity feeding the gas?... Try to pull up an expanded view online somewhere of that carb so you know what's in there exactly. Some carbs have just a simple main jet/draw tube that you would want to be real careful not to damage on removal. They just brass and ya want to use proper screw driver to remove. Some primaries in certain carb applications are more complex using needle jets, needles from above that work off engine vac, as well as the screwed in tube. If designed as such you could accidentally pull the tube and the jet will remain inside due to the tension the gas creates around it. After few minutes of drying the jet will fall out and be lost. That said, I doubt these are such design. Probably like an old briggs with just a tube going up. If tube is not set all the way or it has a leaky seal you can have problems. There really isn't much to such simple carbs besides initial setting of the float followed by main mixture screw adjustment. If either is adjusted to compensate for the other along with a tinkered choke it will never run right. Some carbs will have fuel mixture set at factory and a plug will be installed. If plug has been drilled or pryed out then you know it's been messed with before probably in hopes of solving some other undiagnosed problem. Seems the first thing tinkerers tend to mess with. These mixtures are usually for the slow jetting/idle only aside from the main jet. It get's what it wants by engine vacuum. Generally settings for such are between 1.5 and 3.5 turns out from all the way in...depends on carb or application though. Besides fuel mixture adjust, some carbs would have an air screw. Think those are for 2 cycles though. So get a exploded view of the thing, clean carb, and then drum up the float clearance measurement and adjustment procedure for it. Usually that involves bending tab at the needle valve ever so slightly with needle nose plier. ..about all I got..good luck!

That's odd Dave.. off trigger with unloader not passing should blow a burst disk or such. Such issue should present all the time shouldn't it. Would like to hear more on this and from others that may have experienced such.....Case here has a 5min. time table so I doubt it applies... Korey, The gas flow scenario talked about would be that after so many minutes the fuel in the float bowl runs dry due to lack of inflow. The point of stall is when you acheive too lean a mix causing a popping or spitting up through carb if throttle is open or through exhaust if throttle is suddenly closed. Since it's probably dieing rather quik on you at this point of running out of gas you probably no chance to try traditional methods of covering intake or removing air filter to see if she smoothes out from going richer or leaner. Other traditional test is by way of installing new plug, running it, then inspecting it's color to see how rich or lean she ran. If bowl has a bottom drain tap you may be able to install a clear hose that you bend up alongside of throttle body to monitor gas level. The level of gas in tube will be same as that in the bowl and likely should be right near where the bowl meets the throttle body. Carbs will have a few different circuits and depending what that one consists of and all that goes along with it in way of sensors you may be running at a choked situation until she starts to warm up. Without knowing that system is all about I would say you have to confirm whether ya got fuel starvation by way of restrictions or clogged filters, or misadjusted/stuck float and or needle, or the oil level/temp sensing problem. I'd yank the whole carb and get ub into the jets and passageways with carb cleaner as well.

probably cause ya killed the bageezuz outta that mildew mang! I'd think ya gotta recoat a whole deck in most any situation and consider maintenance job as not having to strip it. Even if some comes off more in one area than another just be close on sing same color and it should match.

Think he said toner so.....looks rather weak on pigment here on my end if that's what yer thinkin. You not take any pics after first doing it Dan?

Some gas tank cocks on bikes work of vacuum and so if things are clogged the fuel won't pass.. Besides gas flow, some engines will do a sputter type stalling when oil is low and as it warms up.