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1 pointI love to share! I don't charge less than $300 plus tax. I won't leave my house for less, won't even keep talking to you on the phone if you keep pushing for less. No matter how small, or how long it DOESN'T take, $300 minimum. I like to charge $25/hr of driving one way in addition to about $100/hr or so in amount of time it would take for ONE person to complete the job. Which, by the way, is how its been going quite swimmingly I might add. Powerwash.com, I think, used to have a forum and somebody posted about pricing there. They said if you're not charging at least $100 - $150 per hour of cleaning time you might as well stay home. Myself, I added the $25 per hour driving charge. Because let's face it, some of us out here in the flyover country just can't make it with only charging based on the size or amount of time it takes to do just the cleaning. Break it down into extreme detail: $50 per fan $25 per filter $10 per linear foot of duct $25 per linear foot of hood Just for example. What are your thoughts? People don't like to share what they charge for their products or services because they don't want the competition to undercut them. I say, let them undercut me, when they screw up, I become WAY MORE VALUABLE! Especially if I mop up after myself or re-light pilot lights, it's always the little details that can keep you the job at the higher price versus your competitor that comes in at $100 or more than you. Because you know, your competitor may not go on the roof at all, they may not even show up with plastic to wrap the hood or they may not even show up with a pressure washer! *GASP* How many times has your customer replaced the fan motor? Do they know why? How loud is the fan? Can you hear anything? Why is the place filling up with smoke? What's NOT being done? Educate yourself, then educate your customer. Take photos/videos. Proof is Payment!
1 pointI have been using Hadco Cling & Clean for about 4 years now. I wouldn't trade it for anything else. It can be purchased in drums for less than a dollar per gallon if bought in bulk. I just finished my first drum and it lasted almost a full year. I don't have to add anything to it if I don't want to. If I do, I just add water. The type and thickness of the grease determines the ratio. I use garden sprayers to apply the mixture. At first, I started out with sprayers that were not designed to foam but after some experimenting I discovered how to turn a non foaming garden sprayer into a foaming garden sprayer. The first foamers I developed relied solely on hand pumping. Then I began experimenting with how to add compressed air and modifying the wands and tips to control foam throw. I recently discovered pumpless garden sprayers. The pumpless sprayer I am currently using is working far better than any previous sprayer. The only problem with garden sprayers is that they are not designed to work at a very high psi. My first sprayers had a relief valve that operated at only 40psi. A pumpless sprayer is likely to not have a relief valve so I am being very cautious with the psi. If you force to much air in, you have a bomb. Depending on the quality of the connections, type of hose and quality of the wand, a higher psi could be obtained especially since pumpless sprayers are designed to be connected to city water pressures that could range from 40 up to 80psi. I use the compressed air "garden foamer" mostly indoors, however on occasion, I do use it outside on the exhaust fan and filters as needed. Most recently used the compressed air "garden foamer" at a Japanese Hibachi restaurant that has a total of eight exhaust fans and thirteen hoods. Even though it was freezing, the chemical, the "garden foamer" and the cleaning all went very well considering that was the first time the restaurant had been cleaned in the four years it has been open. Hadco Cling & Cling does burn aluminum, but if the metal has enough grease, the chemical will never touch the metal. The longer the chemical sits, the easier it is to clean. Just my experience. Thanks!
1 pointContacting OSHA is like kicking a sleeping dog. Just find a chemical respirator. Foaming keeps the chemical compacted and greatly reduces the airborne particulates. Spray it on , wait, it settles. Power wash it off.
1 pointFellow KEC workers this is just advice and my 2 cents. For years and years i have used a pump up sparyer, worked fine the the cost and agrivation sucked, from o rings going bad, hose that comes with them isnt worth the time,tips handles and so on,but it worked. Now the foamers same concept but much more costly, you got alot of the same things to worry about from hoses orings to a compressor that fails, but it works. Want to go cheap, effective, and truely works well Down Stream.....about 25 bucks for an injector which only has two o rings, a good fuel injector hose for the chem intake and a good SS screen no more then 50 bucks invested. I dont need to carry extra weight and drag extra hose,i can shoot the chemical distances that will pass a foamer or a pump. I at first was so used to and stuck to my pump ups and messing with this foam, i was convinced by a long distance friend to pull my old DS injector out and play with it. I am very good a DSing now. Works great too better then foam or pumpimg. Now you say how....read the above reasons and think about it. In our business we have to be the best at what we do but at the same time cost effective and in my years in the business DSing is the the ONLY way!! Hope this helps and if anyone needs help understanding how to use DSing i would be glad to share.JUst ask. Marko