Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • Beth n Rod

      The Grime Scene Terms Of Service and Forum Rules   08/23/2007

      Terms of Service Warning: The contracting trades are an activity in which there exists the potential for serious injury or death. ALL Users must read and agree to these Terms of Service before using this site. This web site is dedicated to the contracting trades, an activity which is inherently dangerous. You should not depend on information gleaned from this site for your personal safety. Your safety depends upon your own judgment based on competent instruction, experience, and a realistic assessment of ability. There are no warranties, either expressed or implied, that the information on this website are accurate and reliable. Your use of this site indicates your assumption of the risk of death or serious injury and is an acknowledgment of your own sole responsibility for your safety. The following terms and conditions are in reference to the The Grime Scene web site and discussion board (www.thegrimescene.com), here in referred to as "The Grime Scene". These terms and conditions apply to all sites, services, and resources within the The Grime Scene. ACCEPTANCE OF TERMS The Grime Scene provides its service to you, subject to the following Terms of Service (referred to as "TOS"), which may be updated by us from time to time without notice. You may review the most current version of the TOS at any time in the Announcements. In addition, when using particular The Grime Scene services, you shall be subject to any posted guidelines or rules applicable to such services.
      [*]DESCRIPTION OF SERVICE The Grime Scene provides users with access to informational resources including communication and interactive resources pertaining to the contracting industry. Under no circumstances shall The Grime Scene be liable to any user on account of that user's use or misuse of the site or reliance on the site. Such limitation of liability shall apply to prevent recovery of direct, indirect, incidental, consequential, special, punitive and exemplary damages (even if The Grime Scene has been advised of the possibility of such damages). Such limitation of liability shall apply whether the damages arise from use or misuse of the site or reliance on the site, from inability to use the site, or from the interruption, suspension, or termination of the site or services offered on the site (including such damages incurred by third parties).
      Such limitation shall also apply with respect to damages incurred by reason of other services or goods received through or advertised on the site or received through any links provided on the site. .Such limitation shall apply, without limitation, to the costs of procurement of substitute goods or services, lost profits, or lost data. These limitations shall apply notwithstanding any failure of essential purpose of any limited remedy. The Grime Scene makes no warranties as to the accuracy of its information and due to the volatile nature of the information contained within The Grime Scene. The Grime Scene can not screen or authenticate all articles, posts, listings or other information.
      [*]TERMS OF MEMBERSHIP & USAGE RESTRICTIONS Site Membership Membership is available to any person over the age of 13 who registers and accurately provides all the required information, provides a legitimate electronic mail address and obtains a unique The Grime Scene member name and password. Membership is non-transferable. The use of web-based email accounts may be denied due to abuse.
      All membership information must be accurate and belong to the person registering. Invalid, incomplete, or falsified information can result in the immediate termination of all membership privileges for that user and, possibly a permanent ban, restricting the member from using any of The Grime Scene’s services at any time.
      Usage of this site is restricted to persons under the age of 13. (you must be over 13 to participate here)
      The Grime Scene is not responsible for the content of any member's posts, and the views expressed on The Grime Scene are the responsibility of the posting member and not The Grime Scene. The Grime Scene does not preview member posts in any way before they appear on the site. Any link posted to a third-party internet address does not imply an endorsement of that site or its content by The Grime Scene.
      The Grime Scene forums are for the discussion of the contracting trades and related topics. While the administrators and moderators of The Grime Scene will attempt to keep all off-topic messages off this forum, it is impossible for us to review all messages. All messages express the views of the author, and neither the owners of The Grime Scene Room nor the moderators will be held responsible for the content of any message.
      The Grime Scene forums may contain profanity.
      As a condition of buying and selling items listed in any forum of The Grime Scene, Buyer and Seller agree that The Grime Scene is not brokering or otherwise participating in any purchase or sale. The Grime Scene has no knowledge of the terms of sale, the condition of any items offered for sale, the accuracy of any aspect of the sale or the use to which any item shall be put. Buyer assumes all responsibility for proper use of any item so purchased. Buyer acknowledges that improper use of some or all of the items offered for sale on The Grime Scene may cause serious injury or death. Buyer shall seek qualified assistance and instruction in the use of all items purchased.
      Pornography of any type is not allowed.
      The owners, administrators, and moderators of The Grime Scene reserve both the right to remove, edit, move or close any thread for any reason, and the right to suspend or delete any user account for any reason we feel is in violation of the TOS, both explicit and implied.
      Membership in The Grime Scene is a privilege, not a right. We reserve the right to deny service to any person at any time without cause.
      [*]INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY It is the policy of The Grime Scene to respond expeditiously to claims of intellectual property infringement. The Grime Scene will promptly process and investigate notices of alleged infringement and will take appropriate actions under the Digital Millennium Copyright Act ("DMCA"). Should a violation of intellectual property be discovered, the document(s) or messages in such violation will be removed in a timely manner after any and all investigating has been completed to prove the authenticity of such a claim.
      [*]PUBLIC CONTENT ON THE GRIME SCENE Any and all content posted for inclusion in publicly accessible areas of The Grime Scene are the responsibility of the creator. The Grime Scene makes no claims or warranties about such information or its authenticity. Upon posting any content on The Grime Scene, you grant The Grime Scene the non-exclusive right to publish, modify and use such content solely for the purpose of displaying such content.
      [*]LIMITATION OF RE-USE You agree not to reproduce, duplicate, copy, sell, resell or exploit for any commercial purposes or noncommercial purposes any portion of the services or content contained within The Grime Scene and its subsidiary sites. In order to use any content, graphical art, photos or files owned by or published by The Grime Scene, direct, written authorization must be obtained from The Grime Scene with no exceptions at any time for any reason.
      [*]LEGAL RESTRICTIONS This agreement shall be constructed and controlled by the laws of the State of Maryland, without regard to its conflict of law provisions. Any dispute arising hereunder will be governed by the laws of the State of Maryland. Each member agrees to personal jurisdiction by tile state and federal courts of the State of Maryland.
      The Grime Scene reserves the right to change, modify or update this TOS agreement at any time without notification. Membership in and the use of resources contained within The Grime Scene constitutes full agreement and acknowledgment of the restrictions, limitations and terms set forth in this agreement.
      [*]Forum Posting Rules The following is a list of basic guidelines about what is and is not allowed while posting on The Grime Scene. These rules are in addition to what is listed in our Terms Of Service . Please read through all of these sections before using our site and contact us if you have questions. Users shall treat each other with respect at all times on The Grime Scene. Name calling, personal attacks, or other inappropriate behavior will not be allowed and may cause your account to be banned.
      Advertising on our site is specific to Contractors and to those Manufacturers and Distributors serving our industry. All Manufacturers and Distributors must have a signature, and should not solicit in the main forums. Please use the vendor area. Members who try to sell products and/or services to contracting professionals in the main forum area may have their accounts privileges suspended or revoked.
      No pornographic material or links to pornographic material may be posted on this site.
      Profanity shall be kept to a minimum. Words that appear to be blanked out with stars (*) are not allowed.
      You may only post material and content that you own. Posting copyrighted material, trademarks, and other violations of the DMCA is prohibited. Anyone posting an article must credit the author and provide a link to the original data.
      These rules may be altered at anytime without notice so please check the Announcements often.

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Last week
  2. Earlier
  3. Cleaning recommendations

    General practice after applying any product that is on the alkaline side is to apply a neutralizer. While percarbonates become inert after they exhaust themselves, the pH is still alkaline. Stains/sealers are designed to go onto wood that is in its neutral state which is acidic in nature. Wash, rinse, neutralize, rinse. Rod
  4. Cleaning recommendations

    Thank you again for all this info Rod. One last question. Should I be rinsing with an oxalic Acid mixture after cleaning with the Sodium Percarbonate mixture? Don
  5. Clean & Clear Power Washing recently finished a large job at Tim McLoone's Supper Club in Asbury Park, NJ We love taking on big jobs such as this one and we especially love to take care of our fellow businesses in Monmouth and Ocean County in NJ. As the power washing and pressure washing season continues along, we're still taking on new appointment! Contact us today for your free quote! About Clean & Clear Power Washing: Clean & Clear provides power washing, pressure washing, and soft washing in Monmouth County and Ocean County, NJ.
  6. Sure, we're midway through the summer. But that doesn't mean you don't have time to get your home power washed or soft washed. In fact, it's best to get your house cleaned several times each year. That's why Clean & Clear Power Washing is still taking on new appointments for power washing, pressure washing, soft washing, and roof washing in Monmouth and Ocean County. Contact us today and we'll be happy to give you a free quote and take care of keeping your home or business looking great. That's right, we also provide commercial power washing in Monmouth and Ocean County! Contact us today for your free quote! About Clean & Clear Power Washing: Clean & Clear provides power washing, pressure washing, and soft washing in Monmouth County and Ocean County, NJ.
  7. Cleaning recommendations

    Yes. Clean it first, wait till dry then apply. First coat on new wood is going to look much lighter than on older wood because the fibers are still very tight and don't absorb as well as when loosened up by aging and lignin/extractives depreciation. When you are to perform subsequent maintenance applications, clean with oxyclean if is it just mold. If algae develops, skip the oxyclean and use bleach and water instead. (oxyclean and bleach don't get along in a mixture) Brush and then rinse thoroughly or use a power washer to speed up the process but remember you aren't trying to remove the color. Some may anyway as there are no significant binders to hold it on the surface and UV degradation will make it easy to remove. Once clean, neutralize and rinse thoroughly and allow to dry. Re-apply A/C and if mildew is a problem in your environment, you can also use a small amount of Japan Drier in Only What you think you can apply. Not the whole container. This will help the product set up faster and give less time for nature to deposit things that promote mildew regrowth. Yes, still use a mildewcide in only the new container you have. Not the used/partial one you may left over from prior applications. Any remaining product (hopefully very little) should be disposed of once a drier has been added. The product loses its properties in the can and when you go to use it later, it will not work as designed. This is why I state to only add it to what you think you will apply. If you need a little more you can still add it to that amount required. Keep what comes in the can in the state it was once opened (except the mildewcide if you add it. That does not hurt the formula). Rod
  8. Cleaning recommendations

    Thank you Rod. The deck has a 6x8 at 4ft and a 16 x18 at about 2ft and Ottawa is pretty humid here in the summer. I had read on the AC stain website that they recommended waiting 3 months that is why I was not sure. So if I am going to stain it about a month after it was installed I just need to do a light scrub with Oxiclean correct? Then next season if I am not restaining it can I scrub and brighten it or should I just scrub it? The lower deck was sealed off with flashing to keep animals out but I am going to look into seeing if there are some kind of vents I could install that would allow air to flow under the deck and not let animals in. It is closed off with cut down vertical deck boards so it would probably have to be a circle shaped vent. Thank you for your assistance.
  9. Cleaning recommendations

    Since you are using Pt Pine, you can seal it within 2 weeks of installation according to the American Wood Preservers Association, the organization that sets the guidelines for pressure treatment in wood. If you are going to wait that long, your exterior environment will be a dictating factor on what you will need to do. Oxy clean is easy enough for just gray wood and some mildew growth. Neutralizing with an acid is recommended. I am not sure what stores you have in your neck of the woods but look for a product that has either Oxalic or Citric acid and is designated for use on decks. If you are looking for more specifics, try https://www.opwdecks.com/ If your deck environment has high moisture conditions from a pool, hot tub or pond/water feature or sits really close to the ground and has little to no air passage beneath (less than 2' results in pockets of dead air and high moisture retention) then you may have to look into an additional mildewcide to help stave off mold growth during the drying period which with A/C can be anywhere from 2-5 days depending upon how much sun and shade you have. More sun, less dry time. Rod
  10. Good day, I have been reading through the posts on here and there is a ton of information, it has been quite interesting. I have a new PT deck that I just had built and I am going to wait 3 months and then use an AC Semi trans stain on it. From what I have read I will still need to wash and brighten it afterward. I was wondering what you guys would recommend as either a pre-bought product or one I can mix up at home. I plan on re-staining every 2 years or so but I am not sure if I should clean and brighten it every year or just clean it. Thank you for any advice you guys and gals can give me. Don
  11. Big Driveways

    2k range Rod
  12. Big Driveways

    Thanks Beth n Rod. I already know the things you wrote. I was just interested in what others were pricing at?
  13. Big Driveways

    Any project is dependent upon the costs associated with completing it that you company needs to stay in business. One has to figure out all the costs your business incurs and apply them to the daily operational costs at a price that will support it. I would have 2 guys on that crew and it would take about 3 hours to wash so you have to figure the costs based upon at least that factor then include your insurances (aggregated from a yearly cost to a daily and then hourly figure), the fuel, the chems, the travel time and a margin of profit which helps the business reinvest in itself and pay benefits. Rod
  14. Big Driveways

    I'm quoting a driveway of 13,000 square feet. Will downstream a weak bleach then clean with Whisper Wash then downstream again with a weak bleach to finish up. Curious what you would price this at? Thanks!
  15. You're Welcome. Rod
  16. Then you must upgrade and use mobile phone to run your roof repair business.
  17. If they didn't kill off any existing mold, the likelihood of mold returning is certain. The extent of which is only determinable by a couple of factors. 1. Wood too wet when stained. 2. Deck too low to the ground and high moisture from the evaporating soil beneath keeping mold alive also leading to return. 3. Over hanging plants/trees, excessive shade and or hot tub/pool/pond in proximity adding moisture/humidity for the mold to feed on. Strip the deck. Apply bleach and water at 50/50 (bleach/water) to the bare wood and let dwell. Reapply where dark or otherwise not the true color of wood is present. Rinse thoroughly and then neutralize. Any stain that is oil based at that point should have an additional mildewcide added to help stave off any growth onset during the cure time and a drier (Japan Drier) to help speed up the cure and minimize the ability for the environment to deposit and stick in the stain. Hope this helps. Rod
  18. I received a call today from a potential customer who informed me that he used Super Deck oil base stain to stain his deck from Sherwin Williams. He told me he power washed the deck and stained it with Super Deck and it turned black. After that he asked some one to strip the deck and he stained it again with the same product. I asked the potential customer how the striping was done. He told me it was stripped then it was brighten with oxilic acid. After the second staining was done the deck turn black again. The only thought that comes to mind would be that the wood moisture was too high or striping was improper. I do not have any picutures yet as I have not been to see to the deck yet. Any thought Rod or any one else would be appreciated. Thank you in advance. MIke Movila
  19. Baseball calls it the dog days of summer. What do you call it? We're now in the middle of summer. The 4th is behind us and now we coast through the rest of the hot months of July and August. One way to combat the boredom that might come with long summer days is to have a party of course! But in order to make sure you're ready to go for your summer cookouts and pool parties, your home has to look great. Clean & Clear Power Washing will come to your house in Monmouth and Ocean County and make it sparkle with our power washing, soft washing, pressure washing, and roof washing. Contact us today for your free quote! About Clean & Clear Power Washing: Clean & Clear provides power washing, pressure washing, and soft washing in Monmouth County and Ocean County, NJ.
  20. I am using Sun Joe SPX3000 Pressure Washer and it is an amazing washer. you can clean everything by just one machine.
  21. Well I'm 51 going on 20 at 6:00 A.M. And 51 going on intention at 6:00 P.M. Lol Feel it in the hands and knees these days but otherwise no to bad.
  22. 51 and still going, but feeling it. I still do roofs too. My friend is 60 and still doing roofs too, so who knows. God's grace!
  23. RE-staining

    The Orange looking product may be Sikkens Dek. It was all the rage back then and if that is the gazebo ceiling you pictured, then I'd leave it as an accent. The rest of it has to be stripped unless you offer to prime and solid stain it. Don't bother wasting your money on strippers at H.D. Go here:https://www.opwdecks.com/ and get a contractor grade product. You will need also this:633-ADD which is an additive that helps to strip acrylics and solid stains. You can get it from here-http://www.acrproductsinc.com/ Tell them I sent you. Meanwhile, inform the customer that this is not just a sanding job as you previously thought. That is part of it but not till you get the bulk of the stain off. There will still be some stain in the cracks. No machine or chemical is able to remove. Keeping that in mind is why I suggested priming and solid stain to hide it. The deck boards don't appear bad enough to warrant replacement so the options are limited based upon what the customer can pay and what he is willing to accept as the end result aesthetic. Stripping the ceiling will be the ultimate p.i.t.a. because gravity is pulling your stripper down and in order to get the product to loosen (there are likely 2 coats) you will have to use a stiff bristle brush to agitate it while the product is working. Get the difficulty yet? Just clean it as the manufacturer prescribes with bleach and tsp in water and then rinse. From that level on down, make a distinct separation from it for the other color. If you do strip the entire deck and leave the ceiling alone you can expect a decent result but inform the customer of the potential you can't get rid of the stain in the cracks without replacing the boards. That poses another problem. With any 'see-through' stain, you will have a noticeable difference in the aged wood and new. There is no way to match them in most cases because in order to do so, you have to not only change the color on those new boards, you have to increase the pigment amount to compensate as well. Unless you are practiced at this, I wouldn't do it because it is more trial and error and you end up with a bunch of color pigments you may never use the rest of and it goes to waste. Food for thought. Rod
  24. I typically paint houses but I took on a deck/ patio/ steps and hand railing staining project. The options were, a solid or a darker stain, he didn’t like either and he didn’t want to pay for it to all be sanded. So I told him I’d sand it a little and pick a slightly darker or similar. My question is now that I took it upon myself to strip it. I found a shiny pretty orange stain that was originally on it 20 years ago but he doesn’t know what it was and whoever covered it since then did a **** poor job and used a way different color and product. What can I use to put over it to what it was originally, Is it possible. should I use an oil base stain or water base and should I just go to Sherwin-Williams, Lowe’s, Home Depot or PPG and pick a similar stain, its now lighter but not Completely bare wood with a hint of orange that the stripper did not take off. If this is confusing or I didn’t write it properly that’s pretty much how I feel about this job. I just want the home owner to get what he wants. The pictures are of what it is not yet stripped and the finished looking picture is the ceiling of the gazebo I believe it used to look like.
  25. The 4th of July is here! Are you ready for fireworks, hamburgers, hotdogs, parties, and picnics? If you're having a party at your home to celebrate the holiday, you'll want to make sure it's looking in tip-top condition. Clean & Clear Power Washing provides power washing, pressure washing, soft washing, and roof washing in Monmouth County and Ocean County! Make sure you're ready for the big mid-summer celebration and get your home power washed today! Contact us for your free quote. About Clean & Clear Power Washing: Clean & Clear provides power washing, pressure washing, and soft washing in Monmouth County and Ocean County, NJ.
  26. Im just starting up to clean hoods and vents. Where can i find caustic soda in southern utah at a cheap price? How do i foam it up in my manual pump sprayer?
  1. Load more activity
×