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General practice after applying any product that is on the alkaline side is to apply a neutralizer.
While percarbonates become inert after they exhaust themselves, the pH is still alkaline. Stains/sealers
are designed to go onto wood that is in its neutral state which is acidic in nature.
Yes. Clean it first, wait till dry then apply. First coat on new wood is going to look much lighter than on older wood because the fibers are still
very tight and don't absorb as well as when loosened up by aging and lignin/extractives depreciation.
When you are to perform subsequent maintenance applications, clean with oxyclean if is it just mold. If algae develops, skip the oxyclean
and use bleach and water instead. (oxyclean and bleach don't get along in a mixture) Brush and then rinse thoroughly or use a power washer
to speed up the process but remember you aren't trying to remove the color. Some may anyway as there are no significant binders to hold it on
the surface and UV degradation will make it easy to remove.
Once clean, neutralize and rinse thoroughly and allow to dry. Re-apply A/C and if mildew is a problem in your environment, you can also use a small
amount of Japan Drier in Only What you think you can apply. Not the whole container. This will help the product set up faster and give less time for
nature to deposit things that promote mildew regrowth.
Yes, still use a mildewcide in only the new container you have. Not the used/partial one you may left over from prior applications.
Any remaining product (hopefully very little) should be disposed of once a drier has been added. The product loses its properties in the can
and when you go to use it later, it will not work as designed. This is why I state to only add it to what you think you will apply. If you need a little more
you can still add it to that amount required. Keep what comes in the can in the state it was once opened (except the mildewcide if you add it. That does not
hurt the formula).