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      The Grime Scene Terms Of Service and Forum Rules   08/23/2007

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Beth n Rod

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About Beth n Rod

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    http://www.seedirtrun.com

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  • Location
    Maryland
  • Company Name
    See Dirt Run! Inc.
  • First & Last Name
    Beth Borrego & Rod Rodriguez
  • City & State
    Germantown, Maryland, United States
  • Occupation
    Offering full service wood restoration for anything from historic log homes to decks. I am also a fr
  • Biography
    Do not hire a man who does your work for money, but him who does it for love of it. Henry David Thoreau US Transcendentalist author (1817 - 1862)

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  1. Unfortunately, there is no stain on the market I am aware of that will sustain the effects of chlorine on it combined with full sun UV any longer. A quick cleaning/neutralization and reapplication is all I can suggest at this point. Hopefully, others may lend their experiences. Consider though, my experiences with products is skewed by comparison due to the VOC regulations in our region over what you have access to purchase in yours. Rod
  2. Maryland deck. New pressure treated pine

    The parts you outlined (facing up) would be the same as the outward facing part of the trim. Where the trim and the decking butt together, one cannot access to apply. The decking would be one color and the trim would be complete in making a border in the solid color. Yes, the 2x4 bottom and top rails would be all one color. The 4x4 post would all be one color. The 2x6 decking would be the alternate color. Rod
  3. Maryland deck. New pressure treated pine

    Making the rails all one color is fairly standard and lowest in maintenance costs. The trim edge of the deck is typically stained the same as the verticals so running a tape along the decking would help to keep the solid off them. Edging with the semi-transparent is simple enough as well. The end result is a very nice manicured look and is not hard to take care of albeit you will need to touch up these edge tops every time you do the floor. Rod
  4. Maryland deck. New pressure treated pine

    Spraying consumption will vary with the wind....literally. Expect to lose 15% in those conditions. But if you have a practiced hand, you can reduce that according to how you change the position of your spray pattern (hold it vertical when doing spindles, Horizontal when spraying the top and bottom rail). I would never advocate skipping the masking. Clean up takes even longer and the results will.....look splotchy on the floor. Any time you have to sand a board, you are removing the part that the sun has darkened by UV exposure. (tan line for example) If you sand part of a board you will get a lighter result in the stain compared to the rest of the board or surrounding boards. The lattice is where you will lose the most but having someone behind (if accessible) to hold a cardboard shield will help recover some of it that collects and allow it to be picked up with a brush and applied somewhere on the intended portions where need be. Removing the top cap is a good way to ensure the product doesn't get on the underside of it. Before you reinstall the cap, seal the underside and ends of it too. Helps to minimize the potential for cupping. If you have an endgrain sealer, apply it to the cut ends instead. This helps reduce shrinking due to loss of the woods Natural moisture through wicking/drying over time. Rod
  5. Maryland deck. New pressure treated pine

    You should mask the floors where the rails are using blue tape and tarps to keep the primer/solid stain off the decking. We use Behr for solid stains. Tough and durable, easy to touch up. Any primer will do that is meant for deck applications. Rustic Brown as a color is a preference. The color is not the part that endures, it is the oils actually. The color will fade and in a couple of years, require cleaning and a recoat as a maintenance regimen. Armstrong is meant as a moisturizing oil and the pigment serves as a UV inhibitor to help reduce the effects of the sun graying the wood. For sqft coverage, the label calls for 1 gallon to cover 200sqft (If memory serves) but I would calculate for 150sft/gallon to start. Subsequent applications in the coming years will require less. One coat only! Apply till the wood refuses and remove the excess and let dry. For apply a solid stain, for efficiency and speed we use an airless spray by Titan. If you don't have an airless sprayer then brushing/pads or rollers will help with the application but brushes will be required in the tight spots. Solid stain on verticals stays clean longer than the floors do. The caps may get dirty quicker than the spindles/balusters. You can clean them along with the deck in intervals of every 2 years with OxyClean or comparable Sodium Percarbonate solution. Rod
  6. Maryland deck. New pressure treated pine

    Ground level deck. Facing which direction? (north, south etc.) It is important to understand the site conditions because it will affect the performance of the coating and the way the wood behaves. If you are going to solid stain the rails I would suggest a primer then solid. Have the supplier tint the primer at least 50% the color of the stain you are going to apply. Helps with blending and coverage. We always mask the floor around the rail posts and use a tarp while the verticals are being completed. The floor is last and the easiest and shouldn't be a worry if you accidentally touch the solid colored rails. It will easily clean off using a rag and a mild degreaser/water solution. For Armstrong Clark products, we buy from ACR Products out of Easton Pa. It's about a one day turnaround for delivery if you order in the morning AND if they have the color in stock. Otherwise they will advise you how long it will take. Tell them we sent you. Rod
  7. Late Start

    Yeah, we're all having the same drifting our way over here in the dc area. Rain, snow, cold, rain, cold, windy cold.....yeah....enough already Rod
  8. Concrete Sealer - salt water pool

    Sorry for the delay. Season starting up has got me less time for social media at the moment. VSeal 101 is a good choice. 102 would be better in a salt water environment. As far as a dealer, we always buy direct but your supplier may get you a better price. Rod
  9. Weather is not the only factor. Temps don't allow for us to wash because we are creating ice and risking the machines, hoses freezing while out in the cold. We do remodeling work and interior work when it is available since I have carpentry skills to support it. But the chances for those opportunities don't come often. That is what we mean when we say 'We are done for the season'. Pressure washing. I don't have guys on the payroll with any other skill sets to support doing anything else so most of the time they become helpers when the opportunity comes. Rod
  10. Abrasive blasting

    We do. Rod
  11. cleaning & sealing flagstone

    Flagstone isn't a good candidate for sealing. It is a shale rock which will continue to flake off due to the porosity of the stone allowing moisture to flow through it from below. Sealing the top is superfluous. As for cleaning, most likely, you are trying to get rid of mold and algae. A simple soap solution with bleach will work and then scrub with a stiff bristle brush. Then was with a power washer, 40 degree tip and from a distance of at least 6" from the surface to minimize flaking caused by the chisel effect of the pressure. Rod
  12. Unloader Valve? Or Pump?

    Wow. Sometimes situations call for a rebuild, other times it calls for replacement. Inadvertently you are replacing it piece by piece. Rod
  13. Closing Bids percentage for 2017

    Sounds high but you must be within your competitors and what the market will bear. Rod
  14. Unloader Valve? Or Pump?

    Yeah, I would check into the pump. Sounds similar to a condition I have experienced. Pump wasn't that old either but it was used on a 2 gun machine so it was put to work a great deal. When the tech took the pump apart to take a look inside, the entire gear/piston assembly had just collapsed and was a mangled mess. Scratching my head, we ordered a new pump and back to work I went. Rod
  15. Tyrone, In case you didn't, please read this entire thread. There is quite a lot of information about your questions contained within. Once you have read this thread and still have questions more specific in nature, then I can help. The questions you asked pertain to this thread and are not very easily answered in a blanket question without going into a long list of responses very much like what has been posted above. Happy reading. Rod
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