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      The Grime Scene Terms Of Service and Forum Rules   08/23/2007

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Beth n Rod

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Beth n Rod last won the day on May 30

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About Beth n Rod

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    Site Admin(s)

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  • Gender
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  • Location
  • Company Name
    See Dirt Run! Inc.
  • First & Last Name
    Beth Borrego & Rod Rodriguez
  • City & State
    Germantown, Maryland, United States
  • Occupation
    Offering full service wood restoration for anything from historic log homes to decks. I am also a fr
  • Biography
    Do not hire a man who does your work for money, but him who does it for love of it. Henry David Thoreau US Transcendentalist author (1817 - 1862)

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  1. I don't even bother with buying in bulk or that concentration anymore. We have switched to just single bottles of clorox at HD and a few detergents/foaming agents/builders/rinse aids and extension poles and brushes. Get far better cleaning results, no bleach residue left behind, no oxidation issues to contend with and customers that call us back every two years to deal with the problematic sides and the rest of the house is a breeze. Same money, easier cleaning, less time and repeat business. Rod
  2. I don't bother to quote stripping that stuff anymore. It is cheaper to re-skin the deck. Consider that the wood has already gotten to a point that this is a last resort for anyone to consider using this....Crap! After having it on for a long enough period, the wood starts to rot because it is holding in moisture where ever it fails and allows water to collect beneath it where it flakes off. I have tried to strip it off only to find a turbo nozzle works the best and even then it never got rid of the stuff that goes into the cracks. For all the cost associated with trying to remove it, it is far cheaper to just replace the wood and then apply a sealer. fwiw. Rod
  3. Clean it first. Then sand it. Use no higher than 80 grit. You can use a couple of different methods but grinders help get the job done faster if you learn how to keep it with the grain. If you run into corners, use a palm sander (square type the you have to use hook bars to hold the paper which is cut to size specifically for the sander). Rod
  4. Keep the percarb from drying on glass. It turns it cloudy. The cause is the cure fortunately but it ends up taking more time and effort to physically rub or brush them to remove the haze. I would suggest a maintenance strength sodium hydroxide based cleaner and then neutralize. Rod
  5. I can understand your intention to address the customers request but keep this in mind. . . The customer doesn't always know what is best. Cleaning just a part without touching adjacent shakes is a surgical operation and unless you intend to do it by hand just give em a price break to clean them all to look the same (or as close to it as possible considering the proximity to the ground.) I am guessing the shakes have been replaced at some point in the past and the h.o. is proceeding based upon advice given by the installer. The installer is NEVER there to see the progress of nature and exposure for the sake of maintenance. They only see it once everything has gone to rot and decay requiring replacement. Use your best judgement and remember also this....your reputation is in the results. Others don't know the arrangement you make and their perceptions will be based upon solely what you complete. They may think you weren't doing a good job and got fired. Food for thought. Rod
  6. Bumping the thread to see if anyone can help... Rod
  7. Prewet the composite first since you have to neutralize the wood rails. Rod
  8. Good to hear but it would depend on the severity of the rust to do that. Those elements are not active on rust typically. You got lucky. Acid is the way to go. Try tennis ball feet on wrought iron in the future, or clear coat with a Rustoleum product. Beth
  9. Your gauge should be after the gun. The tip after the gauge to determine the pressure according to the nozzle size designated for your pump. Rod
  10. You're Welcome Mike. Rod
  11. Gotcha. I thought you meant it hadn't been sealed yet. Then the dark patches are where water is showing it has gotten into the wood. Not a sealer failure, just an eventuality since the deck can't be sealed on all sides once it is built. Rod
  12. Yeah, I just thought putting up the contact page with a contact phone number would be useful. You may have compared the numbers by now as well. Maybe he got a better service plan and changed but one would think he'd notify his customers in some way of that change. Rod
  13. No idea but his website is still up. Try this link. http://www.pressuretek.com/contact-us.html Rod
  14. Wow. Quite a long time. You may need to rewash it as it looks like the deck is starting to darken up in spots. My suggestion is to take 1 gallon of water, 1/4 gallon of bleach and apply to the horizontals. Allow to work and lighten up the darkening areas and rinse. Neutralize with citric acid again and rinse once more. What this does is address any biological growths starting up in the wood fibers and makes sure they can't grow under the sealer once you get to apply. Rod
  15. If the Thermal Safety valve is leaking, it needs to be replaced. It's purpose is to protect the pump in the case of water recirculating for prolonged periods of time without the trigger on the gun being pulled. As water recirculates, it gains heat from the pump and over a few minutes can get to temperatures that will eventually harm the pump. The valve allows a discharge of water once it reaches a pre-set temperature allowing cool water to enter and releasing the heated water. Once the water temp drops enough, it usually shuts off and allows the unit to continue to function. Now, if it is the pressure relief valve, it has to be replaced every time it blows. It is a safety function of the unit to prevent the machine from exceeding it's operating pressure. It has no re-set ability. The foil seal will burst and cannot be repaired. Rod.