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      The Grime Scene Terms Of Service and Forum Rules   08/23/2007

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Beth n Rod

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About Beth n Rod

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    Site Admin(s)

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  • Website URL
    http://www.seedirtrun.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Maryland
  • Company Name
    See Dirt Run! Inc.
  • First & Last Name
    Beth Borrego & Rod Rodriguez
  • City & State
    Germantown, Maryland, United States
  • Occupation
    Offering full service wood restoration for anything from historic log homes to decks. I am also a fr
  • Biography
    Do not hire a man who does your work for money, but him who does it for love of it. Henry David Thoreau US Transcendentalist author (1817 - 1862)

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  1. Petriwood or Cedarshield

    Cellular structure and pores of the wood are two completely different scales. Soft woods don't have pores. They consist of elongated fibers. Hard woods do have pores but I doubt these are the ones you are referring to in your post. The cells of the wood are closed and cannot be imbued with anything without compromising the integrity of the cell. Scientifically speaking, everything we do to wood happens at the surface and barely penetrates through to the substrate or underlying layers. Considering that this product is designed for cedar (according to the website), I don't see much use in pressure treated lumber which already has the protection installed. Cedar is best protected from damage by simply sealing the end grain with an appropriate sealer upon installation. Baring that, there is no practicality for this product to be installed unless it can be done before construction. Stains last longer on vertical surfaces due to lack of environmental degradation and UV exposure is indirect in most cases where this longevity is observed. My question with the claims to increasing/impeding wood dynamic expansion etc is due to the inability to access all sides of the deck boards/ends etc. Without installing it before the installation, I don't see the claim as reasonably accurate. Furthermore, using a silicone derivative to seal wood prevents any stain from being able to adhere seeing as they are notorious for setting up a repellent feature that stains are not manufactured to adhere. Keeping that in mind, its use on a commercial scale is unsuitable as homeowners are always looking to add their own flair to the deck in a color scheme(s) that compliments the landscaping and house. Having a bare deck greying from UV degradation and being unable to apply a stain that will have any reasonable duration becomes a deterrent. Applying this product before any stain would also Void any manufacturer warranty because it would impeded penetration considering the bulk of stains produced today are now hybrids and water based to begin with. Forgive the argument, but when it comes to wood, I am a champion of informing people and not just letting simple claims create a money waste situation for the customer or the applicator. In your post, I don't feel you have addressed these concerns properly and according to the website, did not find any evidence of compatibility with any brand on the market. That in and of itself is a problem because it sets up a liability for the applicator and unreasonable expectations for the homeowner since there are NO examples or proven trials, no accolades attesting the claims and no photos showing any duration that can provide any confidence in the products capabilities or applicable uses. As far as termites on cedar...yes, immature growth is susceptible but if a treatment is required, many stains on the market already incorporate a preservative. If not, there are alternatives that do not impede the application of a stain or sealer otherwise. Btw, the video and its presentation are outdated. CCA wood hasn't been produced since the ban went into effect 12/31/2003 most decks are now comprised of treatments that have little detriment to human exposure. Again, in the website, there are no photos or testimonials validating the claims. Rod
  2. Looking for more of these:

    Yes, home depot carries them as Andrew stated. Many pressure washing distributors/repair stores have them as well. They are called 22mm twist fast connectors. The one pictured is the female. Rod
  3. Depends in part on the type of product you are looking to apply. We use Titan sprayers but the important part is actually the spray tip. It determines the pattern, the vaporization and the amount of product it applies. For viscous stains that are thin, smaller tip orifice sizes are applicable. For heavier bodied stains like semi-solid to solid stains, a larger orifice would be the choice. After that, it becomes a matter of practice and awareness of the environment you are applying in that will ultimately determine the ones you use most. Rod
  4. Thanks. It has been a wild ride to this point and we are a wreck each game. Me gots no finger nails left!!! Rod
  5. The internet is a good place to start. A web site and business reviews help people to decide based upon others experiences. Not suggesting angies list or anything like that. BBB is better and more people trust it. Rod
  6. Knocking on 57 here and I guess you just have to listen to your bones. I'll be going for a while but I am learning to let the hired hands do the most arduous tasks and select those that are specialized and less of a deficit to my body for myself. Rod
  7. For Sale....

    Yes, There is a section of the forum specifically dedicated for this purpose for our members. It's in the Bargain Basement Section you can effectively post your equipment for sale. Rod
  8. The one thing I look for in a purchase is the company and how well they stand behind their product. Given the commonality of the components, the technology standardized, there is not much to decide where the unit is concerned. How is their customer service and durability of the product they sell? Do they handle any issues associated with the unit well? Other than that, you have only the model to choose to suit your needs. Rod
  9. What is the question you have about them? I am assuming you have an equipment problem. Don't own or have any experience with a Bulldog Pro but perhaps can help with the component(s) which are largely the same as most others Rod
  10. Try searches similar to this. approved cleaners for docks on chesapeake bay I am sure there is something allowed besides water but finding it takes time. Rod
  11. Pressure loss?

    I would stick with the ones designed for the machine. The pump could suffer trying to push the extra water. Rod
  12. Unfortunately, there is no stain on the market I am aware of that will sustain the effects of chlorine on it combined with full sun UV any longer. A quick cleaning/neutralization and reapplication is all I can suggest at this point. Hopefully, others may lend their experiences. Consider though, my experiences with products is skewed by comparison due to the VOC regulations in our region over what you have access to purchase in yours. Rod
  13. Maryland deck. New pressure treated pine

    The parts you outlined (facing up) would be the same as the outward facing part of the trim. Where the trim and the decking butt together, one cannot access to apply. The decking would be one color and the trim would be complete in making a border in the solid color. Yes, the 2x4 bottom and top rails would be all one color. The 4x4 post would all be one color. The 2x6 decking would be the alternate color. Rod
  14. Maryland deck. New pressure treated pine

    Making the rails all one color is fairly standard and lowest in maintenance costs. The trim edge of the deck is typically stained the same as the verticals so running a tape along the decking would help to keep the solid off them. Edging with the semi-transparent is simple enough as well. The end result is a very nice manicured look and is not hard to take care of albeit you will need to touch up these edge tops every time you do the floor. Rod
  15. Maryland deck. New pressure treated pine

    Spraying consumption will vary with the wind....literally. Expect to lose 15% in those conditions. But if you have a practiced hand, you can reduce that according to how you change the position of your spray pattern (hold it vertical when doing spindles, Horizontal when spraying the top and bottom rail). I would never advocate skipping the masking. Clean up takes even longer and the results will.....look splotchy on the floor. Any time you have to sand a board, you are removing the part that the sun has darkened by UV exposure. (tan line for example) If you sand part of a board you will get a lighter result in the stain compared to the rest of the board or surrounding boards. The lattice is where you will lose the most but having someone behind (if accessible) to hold a cardboard shield will help recover some of it that collects and allow it to be picked up with a brush and applied somewhere on the intended portions where need be. Removing the top cap is a good way to ensure the product doesn't get on the underside of it. Before you reinstall the cap, seal the underside and ends of it too. Helps to minimize the potential for cupping. If you have an endgrain sealer, apply it to the cut ends instead. This helps reduce shrinking due to loss of the woods Natural moisture through wicking/drying over time. Rod
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