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RPetry

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RPetry last won the day on June 18 2016

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About RPetry

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  • Company Name
    Windsor WoodCare
  • First & Last Name
    Rick Petry
  • City & State
    Ringoes, NJ
  • Occupation
    Wood restoration
  1. Sealing Ipe End grain

    Ania, Anchorseal works well on ipe' cuts. Used it when "reskinning" and installing ipe' on my own deck. Stain will not be effective in preventing checking at end grain cuts. Caveat. Take your time and be careful when applying Anchorseal. Make sure you only apply the product on the "cut" of the ipe', nowhere else.
  2. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the wood in your pics. The floor looks like it may be Douglas Fir which kind of stains a bit spotty, but lasts a long time. Nice outdoor space, like the totem.
  3. Steven, Dummond has about 6 different "Peel Away" strippers. The one shown in the video is for lead, oil based paint removal. The top rails in your pictures appear to a water based, possibly an acrylic coating. You may want to give them a call for correct product selection.
  4. Stephen, Rod has a point. Not familiar with Peel Away, if it has a very thick consistency, think "pudding" or better yet "paste", it should work well on the top and 2 thin sides of the handrails, as long as it is effective. We keep 5 - 10 gals. in stock of an extremely caustic stripper, Eaco Chem's Stripper Cream. Chem gloves, safety glasses, and a rinse bucket of an acid is mandatory with the acid in case you get some on clothes or skin. Thick, kind of like pudding, and will cling to verticals with little to no drip. Apply "thick". Allow to dwell, if needed overnight, and pressure wash. Follow with a strong acid neutralizer and rinse again. You will definitely have to do a quick sanding of that wood.
  5. Jim is entirely correct. Read that somewhere once. Can't remember the source. Incipient Alzheimer's. NaOCl is a wonder chemical.
  6. Steven, We've been using citric acid, aside from extremely caustic stripping jobs, for maybe 13 years. Dependent on the shipping price, the 50 lb. bulk price is reasonable.
  7. Joel, Insect poop would be a breeze. Little doubt that it is artillery fungus, that is near impossible to remove. Often the cause is lower quality mulch.
  8. AFAIK, no acid, oxalic, citric, or other acids (lord forbid), clean wood. And anyone marketing a caustic cleaner mixed at the same time with an acid is a shyster. A cleaning on wood with a percarbonate or a sodium hydroxide stripper or stronger caustic, yeah, an acid is more than mandatory. Just a clean and additional stain, sodium hypochlorite and a bit of soap, and light PW, followed by a good water rinse is much better for the existing stain in and on the wood.
  9. Bobby, Just noticed you are using "Restore a Deck". AFAIK, this is primarily sodium percarbonate which in solution has a pH of ~ 10 - 10.5. Thereby caustic. Follow up with a acid neutralizer and after a bit, a water rinse.
  10. Depends what you are cleaning with!
  11. Voted Stripper Cream for those nasty verticals. A bit pricey and laborious to apply, but does work well. Also voted HD-80, although we have not used that product in about 11 years. ACR Products supplies a very similar product, ACR 760, which is similar and works well. For those really snotty finish removals, some ACR ADD-633 along with a surfactant, a bit of time keeping it moist, works well.
  12. Hi Jon, We've done many similar gazebo cedar shake roofs in the past, usually associated with deck(s). Being in Florida, I would assume that there is quite a bit of mold/mildew, particularly on the cut lower edges of the shakes and shaded areas of the cupola. As a cleaner, a 1.5 - 2% bleach mix with some soap would be appropriate. Using a Shurflo or similar pump, soak all the shakes well with the cleaner. For this step, if the shakes are in good shape, walking the roof should be fine. Two separate methods to washing. With either, a 10 - 12' step ladder is ideal. First, and quickest, is to use a short lance with a flexible lance attachment, and walk around on the gazebo roof, washing the "upper" half and cupola. Next, setup your ladder on the ground outside and wash the "lower" half, moving the ladder for each section. This gives the best results as edge cleaning and wand control is much easier. Otherwise, you will have to use an extended lance for the top, and the shorter lance for the bottom, requiring two circuits with the ladder or a lance change on each section. Do take care on washing the edges of the shakes. An ~ 45 degree angle is ideal. A much lower angle can lift off shakes due to water pressure and split/damage them.
  13. Tom and Barbra Vogel of ACR Products started this early Spring seminar 12 or maybe 13 yrs. ago. For contractors. A get together, pig roast, pep talk, and education in March to get contractors set and excited about the coming season. Jack Kramer was involved early on. Wonderful presenter and knowlegible in the business. Last year, Thad and the PWRA got involved. The best industry event I have attended.
  14. Stephen, Terrific before/after pictures. Like the house, especially the wrap around porch and the site. The view from the back of the home must be stunning.
  15. Tom, There is an old saying, "Penny wise, dollar foolish". When it comes to maintaining expensive equipment, why cut corners? Your maintenance manuals will specify the correct fluids and service. If used equipment, most owners manuals are available on line today. I'd stick with the manufacturers specs.
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