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      The Grime Scene Terms Of Service and Forum Rules   08/23/2007

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Beth n Rod

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Everything posted by Beth n Rod

  1. How to bid this job...

    Bidding for the price is a good start. The issues with actually doing them are the tenants. Especially on the porches where they will tend to store a bunch of stuff and throw a tizzy if you get them wet or whatever. Notifications are recommended. Price wise, Where is the water being drawn? Is it the tenants water or from a water source belonging to the building owners control? Since you are likely only cleaning the siding and not so much the brick, price it per section of siding. Usually around 100-150 each. The brick is what takes the most time to wash and generates a lot of grit debris which adds time to rinse off everything in proximity. If you have to wash that, double the price for each section. Rod
  2. Since there is no need for a lot of water so a small consumption machine should work for the purpose. Most small units are 2gpm or less and are either electric or motor. As long as the tank is high enough to provide for a decent gravity feed with a regular garden hose, there should be no problem. Doing a test with the tank on the flow will determine the gpm requirement of the machine that is compatible. Just fill a bucket and time it for specific amounts...1 gal, 2 gal etc. When the gpm (gallons per minute) capability is determined, then he can buy a unit to work in that range. Rod
  3. pre treating concrete

    Rick2 has some good points to consider. Protecting the customers property and preventing negative affects to the surrounding plants and amenities is important for your reputation as a quality cleaner. We use an M-5 to apply a degreaser and bleach mix. 3:1 (no proportioner). Start out with 3-1/2 gallons of water in a 5 gal cubetainer then add about 6 oz of degreaser and depending upon the severity of the mold and algae 1/3rd to a gallon of bleach and top off the container with water. The degreaser helps to address other common spills and lotions often on the pool aprons. Rod
  4. Knee pads! Over the years I have blown out both Bursa's in my knees and can't kneel for long without pain. Even have to wear them on ladders because working on them I lean on the ladder rails for stability. About to turn 57 and still going strong otherwise. When is too old? Ask my body when it says so, otherwise....I delegate the hard work to my paid employees and take the special projects on for myself. Gotta keep the enjoyable part right? Rod
  5. Cleaning recommendations

    Yes. No higher than 80 grit for outdoor surfaces. Better penetration. 60 is typical in our practice due to the buffing brushes we have in that grit. This process also helps to lessen some of the un-eveness of coverage by furniture and other seldom moved items. Staining (adding a pigmented sealer) is a preferrence. Also helps to stave of UV greying and degradation depending on the opacity of the stain being applied. Toners-little opacity, semi-transparent stains-more opacity. Semi-solid greater opacity and solids are totally opaque. Clear sealers are in the vein of toners which have little to no opacity for UV protection regardless of what they state on the label. Rod
  6. Big Driveways

    Once you throw in something sizable, it discounts the whole perception of value. Then your price comes into question. Something to consider... Rod
  7. Cleaning recommendations

    General practice after applying any product that is on the alkaline side is to apply a neutralizer. While percarbonates become inert after they exhaust themselves, the pH is still alkaline. Stains/sealers are designed to go onto wood that is in its neutral state which is acidic in nature. Wash, rinse, neutralize, rinse. Rod
  8. Cleaning recommendations

    Yes. Clean it first, wait till dry then apply. First coat on new wood is going to look much lighter than on older wood because the fibers are still very tight and don't absorb as well as when loosened up by aging and lignin/extractives depreciation. When you are to perform subsequent maintenance applications, clean with oxyclean if is it just mold. If algae develops, skip the oxyclean and use bleach and water instead. (oxyclean and bleach don't get along in a mixture) Brush and then rinse thoroughly or use a power washer to speed up the process but remember you aren't trying to remove the color. Some may anyway as there are no significant binders to hold it on the surface and UV degradation will make it easy to remove. Once clean, neutralize and rinse thoroughly and allow to dry. Re-apply A/C and if mildew is a problem in your environment, you can also use a small amount of Japan Drier in Only What you think you can apply. Not the whole container. This will help the product set up faster and give less time for nature to deposit things that promote mildew regrowth. Yes, still use a mildewcide in only the new container you have. Not the used/partial one you may left over from prior applications. Any remaining product (hopefully very little) should be disposed of once a drier has been added. The product loses its properties in the can and when you go to use it later, it will not work as designed. This is why I state to only add it to what you think you will apply. If you need a little more you can still add it to that amount required. Keep what comes in the can in the state it was once opened (except the mildewcide if you add it. That does not hurt the formula). Rod
  9. Cleaning recommendations

    Since you are using Pt Pine, you can seal it within 2 weeks of installation according to the American Wood Preservers Association, the organization that sets the guidelines for pressure treatment in wood. If you are going to wait that long, your exterior environment will be a dictating factor on what you will need to do. Oxy clean is easy enough for just gray wood and some mildew growth. Neutralizing with an acid is recommended. I am not sure what stores you have in your neck of the woods but look for a product that has either Oxalic or Citric acid and is designated for use on decks. If you are looking for more specifics, try https://www.opwdecks.com/ If your deck environment has high moisture conditions from a pool, hot tub or pond/water feature or sits really close to the ground and has little to no air passage beneath (less than 2' results in pockets of dead air and high moisture retention) then you may have to look into an additional mildewcide to help stave off mold growth during the drying period which with A/C can be anywhere from 2-5 days depending upon how much sun and shade you have. More sun, less dry time. Rod
  10. Big Driveways

    2k range Rod
  11. Big Driveways

    Any project is dependent upon the costs associated with completing it that you company needs to stay in business. One has to figure out all the costs your business incurs and apply them to the daily operational costs at a price that will support it. I would have 2 guys on that crew and it would take about 3 hours to wash so you have to figure the costs based upon at least that factor then include your insurances (aggregated from a yearly cost to a daily and then hourly figure), the fuel, the chems, the travel time and a margin of profit which helps the business reinvest in itself and pay benefits. Rod
  12. You're Welcome. Rod
  13. If they didn't kill off any existing mold, the likelihood of mold returning is certain. The extent of which is only determinable by a couple of factors. 1. Wood too wet when stained. 2. Deck too low to the ground and high moisture from the evaporating soil beneath keeping mold alive also leading to return. 3. Over hanging plants/trees, excessive shade and or hot tub/pool/pond in proximity adding moisture/humidity for the mold to feed on. Strip the deck. Apply bleach and water at 50/50 (bleach/water) to the bare wood and let dwell. Reapply where dark or otherwise not the true color of wood is present. Rinse thoroughly and then neutralize. Any stain that is oil based at that point should have an additional mildewcide added to help stave off any growth onset during the cure time and a drier (Japan Drier) to help speed up the cure and minimize the ability for the environment to deposit and stick in the stain. Hope this helps. Rod
  14. RE-staining

    The Orange looking product may be Sikkens Dek. It was all the rage back then and if that is the gazebo ceiling you pictured, then I'd leave it as an accent. The rest of it has to be stripped unless you offer to prime and solid stain it. Don't bother wasting your money on strippers at H.D. Go here:https://www.opwdecks.com/ and get a contractor grade product. You will need also this:633-ADD which is an additive that helps to strip acrylics and solid stains. You can get it from here-http://www.acrproductsinc.com/ Tell them I sent you. Meanwhile, inform the customer that this is not just a sanding job as you previously thought. That is part of it but not till you get the bulk of the stain off. There will still be some stain in the cracks. No machine or chemical is able to remove. Keeping that in mind is why I suggested priming and solid stain to hide it. The deck boards don't appear bad enough to warrant replacement so the options are limited based upon what the customer can pay and what he is willing to accept as the end result aesthetic. Stripping the ceiling will be the ultimate p.i.t.a. because gravity is pulling your stripper down and in order to get the product to loosen (there are likely 2 coats) you will have to use a stiff bristle brush to agitate it while the product is working. Get the difficulty yet? Just clean it as the manufacturer prescribes with bleach and tsp in water and then rinse. From that level on down, make a distinct separation from it for the other color. If you do strip the entire deck and leave the ceiling alone you can expect a decent result but inform the customer of the potential you can't get rid of the stain in the cracks without replacing the boards. That poses another problem. With any 'see-through' stain, you will have a noticeable difference in the aged wood and new. There is no way to match them in most cases because in order to do so, you have to not only change the color on those new boards, you have to increase the pigment amount to compensate as well. Unless you are practiced at this, I wouldn't do it because it is more trial and error and you end up with a bunch of color pigments you may never use the rest of and it goes to waste. Food for thought. Rod
  15. Petriwood or Cedarshield

    Cellular structure and pores of the wood are two completely different scales. Soft woods don't have pores. They consist of elongated fibers. Hard woods do have pores but I doubt these are the ones you are referring to in your post. The cells of the wood are closed and cannot be imbued with anything without compromising the integrity of the cell. Scientifically speaking, everything we do to wood happens at the surface and barely penetrates through to the substrate or underlying layers. Considering that this product is designed for cedar (according to the website), I don't see much use in pressure treated lumber which already has the protection installed. Cedar is best protected from damage by simply sealing the end grain with an appropriate sealer upon installation. Baring that, there is no practicality for this product to be installed unless it can be done before construction. Stains last longer on vertical surfaces due to lack of environmental degradation and UV exposure is indirect in most cases where this longevity is observed. My question with the claims to increasing/impeding wood dynamic expansion etc is due to the inability to access all sides of the deck boards/ends etc. Without installing it before the installation, I don't see the claim as reasonably accurate. Furthermore, using a silicone derivative to seal wood prevents any stain from being able to adhere seeing as they are notorious for setting up a repellent feature that stains are not manufactured to adhere. Keeping that in mind, its use on a commercial scale is unsuitable as homeowners are always looking to add their own flair to the deck in a color scheme(s) that compliments the landscaping and house. Having a bare deck greying from UV degradation and being unable to apply a stain that will have any reasonable duration becomes a deterrent. Applying this product before any stain would also Void any manufacturer warranty because it would impeded penetration considering the bulk of stains produced today are now hybrids and water based to begin with. Forgive the argument, but when it comes to wood, I am a champion of informing people and not just letting simple claims create a money waste situation for the customer or the applicator. In your post, I don't feel you have addressed these concerns properly and according to the website, did not find any evidence of compatibility with any brand on the market. That in and of itself is a problem because it sets up a liability for the applicator and unreasonable expectations for the homeowner since there are NO examples or proven trials, no accolades attesting the claims and no photos showing any duration that can provide any confidence in the products capabilities or applicable uses. As far as termites on cedar...yes, immature growth is susceptible but if a treatment is required, many stains on the market already incorporate a preservative. If not, there are alternatives that do not impede the application of a stain or sealer otherwise. Btw, the video and its presentation are outdated. CCA wood hasn't been produced since the ban went into effect 12/31/2003 most decks are now comprised of treatments that have little detriment to human exposure. Again, in the website, there are no photos or testimonials validating the claims. Rod
  16. Looking for more of these:

    Yes, home depot carries them as Andrew stated. Many pressure washing distributors/repair stores have them as well. They are called 22mm twist fast connectors. The one pictured is the female. Rod
  17. Depends in part on the type of product you are looking to apply. We use Titan sprayers but the important part is actually the spray tip. It determines the pattern, the vaporization and the amount of product it applies. For viscous stains that are thin, smaller tip orifice sizes are applicable. For heavier bodied stains like semi-solid to solid stains, a larger orifice would be the choice. After that, it becomes a matter of practice and awareness of the environment you are applying in that will ultimately determine the ones you use most. Rod
  18. Thanks. It has been a wild ride to this point and we are a wreck each game. Me gots no finger nails left!!! Rod
  19. The internet is a good place to start. A web site and business reviews help people to decide based upon others experiences. Not suggesting angies list or anything like that. BBB is better and more people trust it. Rod
  20. Knocking on 57 here and I guess you just have to listen to your bones. I'll be going for a while but I am learning to let the hired hands do the most arduous tasks and select those that are specialized and less of a deficit to my body for myself. Rod
  21. For Sale....

    Yes, There is a section of the forum specifically dedicated for this purpose for our members. It's in the Bargain Basement Section you can effectively post your equipment for sale. Rod
  22. The one thing I look for in a purchase is the company and how well they stand behind their product. Given the commonality of the components, the technology standardized, there is not much to decide where the unit is concerned. How is their customer service and durability of the product they sell? Do they handle any issues associated with the unit well? Other than that, you have only the model to choose to suit your needs. Rod
  23. What is the question you have about them? I am assuming you have an equipment problem. Don't own or have any experience with a Bulldog Pro but perhaps can help with the component(s) which are largely the same as most others Rod
  24. Try searches similar to this. approved cleaners for docks on chesapeake bay I am sure there is something allowed besides water but finding it takes time. Rod
  25. Pressure loss?

    I would stick with the ones designed for the machine. The pump could suffer trying to push the extra water. Rod