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      The Grime Scene Terms Of Service and Forum Rules   08/23/2007

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Beth n Rod

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Everything posted by Beth n Rod

  1. Brown Carpet Troubles

    Not sure if anyone here specializes in carpet cleaning. Hopefully the responses will draw someones attention who may have come from that industry to help. Rod
  2. What does it take???

    This is a relevant thread for many and I feel that the information divulged by the participants can be constructive because without each other, there would be no meeting the demands of the niche business we are all involved in. So, what does it take to keep your business with a vendor? Rod!~
  3. Sometimes...

    Great video. Just wondering if you have tried these brushes. 3 hole siding brush Our guys love them. Rod
  4. Good on you for making it all this time never the less John. Rod
  5. Paint Issues

    Interesting to know. I have not experienced this in any of the homes we have and hopefully will not. Manufacturers also formulate for the specifics of the climate zones they are selling to. As we are in the north east, this could put us out of the issue. Rod
  6. Water shut off inline

    Unless you are talking remote start for an engine, the ball valve is the best option. Adds weight for the user but functionality to shut off the flow for whatever reason (changing guns, surface cleaners etc.) makes it a one man job. Rod
  7. You get what you pay for. The low end units we found to have short life spans. Consumer based products like you have described are imo designed to have a limit. They need to sell units and so built in failure by design is part of it. I have no experience with electric units as our company cannot be held up by an outlet tripping off with no back up and always requiring a generator defeats the purpose of going green. We buy higher end belt drive combustible engine units and they last for years with proper maintenance. What is the specific need of a 'pressure switch'? The units we buy have unloaders that function the same. The motor continues running but the flow is controlled by the gun. Rod
  8. Paint Issues

    Then my assertion of improper preparation or condition created by the person who painted them sounds to be the issue. Not the paint. Rod
  9. Paint Issues

    There may be no bleach residue but from my experience, it looks like chemically induced damage. Whether it was bleach or something else is yet to be determined. Understanding which paint it is and the basis of it (oil, latex, acrylic, hybrid etc.) will help to understand which chemical did the damage. Other things play into paint failure and preparation is the leading cause. Now, this may also indicate an underlying condition of damage induced before the paint was applied and is now revealing in the surface. Class action...I would think this one through. It may be a simple issue of another contractor, home owner/diy etc. induced condition. I have seen similar on siding that looked even but upon washing found streaks that appeared like someone had thrown a chemical over it. Home owner was emphatic that nothing ever happened like that and claimed to be the only owner. I don't know if that is true, but simply washing and a condition revealing afterwards indicates that the damage was already there or the chemicals used in the cleaning created it. A paint would not fail in this manner. The photo clearly shows liquid (as the shutter was upside down when it happened) flowing on it. Dig for more information. Rod
  10. Paint Issues

    This looks like oxidation from bleach residue. Rod
  11. Eliminating "Racing Stripes"

    We typically apply chems to assist in the cleaning. When we get the remnants of like what you are seeing, simply reapply a 50/50 bleach and water (or stronger as you deem necessary) to finish cleaning. If the driveway is as bad as you see, hot water can help as a future consideration. I know your machine is a cold water unit but just to put it out there that colder temps make for less effective cleaners as well. Food for thought. Rod
  12. Paint Issues

    Cannot open the file type. Do you have it in a jpeg ? Rod
  13. We don't do exhaust hood cleaning so I will let others who do address your degreaser question. The one we use is by TDI called BD-10. It's an industrial strength degreaser liquid. Many use powdered versions of degreasers to mix onsite as they need. Glad to hear you are taking the world by your own leash. You'll never go back once you find your way. Best of wishes and hopes for prosperity. Rod
  14. I have heard others who like Hotsy but no personal experience to draw from. I know that isn't helpful but going into 20 years and owning Hydrotek pressure washers has been a great investment in terms of reliability and service. I know they are more expensive than others but perhaps that is a decision you are having to make on a first unit. Budget. Return On Investment is key. How long will it work before it begins to experience problems and what is the down time like? Are there repair providers for the brand you are looking into locally? Remember, the farther you have to go to get it repaired equates to the downtime and mobilization expenses of the vehicle and your butt time. What is it that you do presently? Rod
  15. Biggest problem I have heard comes from a company that services them. They break down and are not as well designed. I would suggest you look into buying from a distributor locally and I would suggest Hydrotek as the pressurewasher of choice. They are local in california as well, so you may look at some savings that way. On the east coast, we have to pay shipping and markup fees. Rod
  16. Marking the passing of a friend

    We found out today that a good friend lost his battle with cancer. Rick Petry of Windsor Wood Care died of lung and liver cancer this past weekend prior to Christmas. He was a member here on TGS and was a contributor to it's knowledge base. We will miss him. Rod & Beth
  17. Lessons Learned in 2018

    I find that customers like you described are often ones that have been either taken by another contractor or were given unreasonable expectations. I have won these types over by setting the expectations and when possible over delivering. Then there are ones that just can't be pleased no matter what and they expect miracles. These often have conditions that can't be reversed and likely induced by either the homeowner/diyer or a hack. Some people are so difficult that I will intentionally bid it high to deter their acceptance but in the case they become desparate set a very low expectation. In the case of excessive questions, I find it that they are insecure and often a bit squirrelley to begin with. I try to be patient but sometimes find I have to control the narrative and leave them with either yes or no responses because they don't understand aspects about the project/scope/technology/chemistry etc. This helps them to find a path to a decision but I often have to leave a comfort line at the end, something to the effect of....if you have any further questions you can call me at... Guarantees. What is to guarantee in our line of work? That the dirt will come off? That the results will last 'X' years? I offer none where this is concerned even if I am the first one on the job because there are things I have no control over. I don't make the sealers, chemicals, stains etc. that are being applied. I didn't get the substrate dirty and have no idea of what it has been subject to and no way to tell until AFTER the work begins to reveal what was hidden or obstructed/disguised. What are your thoughts on Guarantees? Rod
  18. How to bid this job...

    Bidding for the price is a good start. The issues with actually doing them are the tenants. Especially on the porches where they will tend to store a bunch of stuff and throw a tizzy if you get them wet or whatever. Notifications are recommended. Price wise, Where is the water being drawn? Is it the tenants water or from a water source belonging to the building owners control? Since you are likely only cleaning the siding and not so much the brick, price it per section of siding. Usually around 100-150 each. The brick is what takes the most time to wash and generates a lot of grit debris which adds time to rinse off everything in proximity. If you have to wash that, double the price for each section. Rod
  19. Since there is no need for a lot of water so a small consumption machine should work for the purpose. Most small units are 2gpm or less and are either electric or motor. As long as the tank is high enough to provide for a decent gravity feed with a regular garden hose, there should be no problem. Doing a test with the tank on the flow will determine the gpm requirement of the machine that is compatible. Just fill a bucket and time it for specific amounts...1 gal, 2 gal etc. When the gpm (gallons per minute) capability is determined, then he can buy a unit to work in that range. Rod
  20. pre treating concrete

    Rick2 has some good points to consider. Protecting the customers property and preventing negative affects to the surrounding plants and amenities is important for your reputation as a quality cleaner. We use an M-5 to apply a degreaser and bleach mix. 3:1 (no proportioner). Start out with 3-1/2 gallons of water in a 5 gal cubetainer then add about 6 oz of degreaser and depending upon the severity of the mold and algae 1/3rd to a gallon of bleach and top off the container with water. The degreaser helps to address other common spills and lotions often on the pool aprons. Rod
  21. Knee pads! Over the years I have blown out both Bursa's in my knees and can't kneel for long without pain. Even have to wear them on ladders because working on them I lean on the ladder rails for stability. About to turn 57 and still going strong otherwise. When is too old? Ask my body when it says so, otherwise....I delegate the hard work to my paid employees and take the special projects on for myself. Gotta keep the enjoyable part right? Rod
  22. Cleaning recommendations

    Yes. No higher than 80 grit for outdoor surfaces. Better penetration. 60 is typical in our practice due to the buffing brushes we have in that grit. This process also helps to lessen some of the un-eveness of coverage by furniture and other seldom moved items. Staining (adding a pigmented sealer) is a preferrence. Also helps to stave of UV greying and degradation depending on the opacity of the stain being applied. Toners-little opacity, semi-transparent stains-more opacity. Semi-solid greater opacity and solids are totally opaque. Clear sealers are in the vein of toners which have little to no opacity for UV protection regardless of what they state on the label. Rod
  23. Big Driveways

    Once you throw in something sizable, it discounts the whole perception of value. Then your price comes into question. Something to consider... Rod
  24. Cleaning recommendations

    General practice after applying any product that is on the alkaline side is to apply a neutralizer. While percarbonates become inert after they exhaust themselves, the pH is still alkaline. Stains/sealers are designed to go onto wood that is in its neutral state which is acidic in nature. Wash, rinse, neutralize, rinse. Rod
  25. Cleaning recommendations

    Yes. Clean it first, wait till dry then apply. First coat on new wood is going to look much lighter than on older wood because the fibers are still very tight and don't absorb as well as when loosened up by aging and lignin/extractives depreciation. When you are to perform subsequent maintenance applications, clean with oxyclean if is it just mold. If algae develops, skip the oxyclean and use bleach and water instead. (oxyclean and bleach don't get along in a mixture) Brush and then rinse thoroughly or use a power washer to speed up the process but remember you aren't trying to remove the color. Some may anyway as there are no significant binders to hold it on the surface and UV degradation will make it easy to remove. Once clean, neutralize and rinse thoroughly and allow to dry. Re-apply A/C and if mildew is a problem in your environment, you can also use a small amount of Japan Drier in Only What you think you can apply. Not the whole container. This will help the product set up faster and give less time for nature to deposit things that promote mildew regrowth. Yes, still use a mildewcide in only the new container you have. Not the used/partial one you may left over from prior applications. Any remaining product (hopefully very little) should be disposed of once a drier has been added. The product loses its properties in the can and when you go to use it later, it will not work as designed. This is why I state to only add it to what you think you will apply. If you need a little more you can still add it to that amount required. Keep what comes in the can in the state it was once opened (except the mildewcide if you add it. That does not hurt the formula). Rod
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