MMI Enterprises

Rick, alboline is synonym for mineral oil. There are lots of them... The product/brand name Alboline however is a bare bones type of makeup remover found at Longs Drugs most usually. Also makes for a great lube in some circumstances :)...(much better than sticky vaseline or alcohol based stuff that dries things out) Difference between it and straight oil is that it has body to it being it has both the paraffinic oil and paraffinic wax.

David, Nice to see ya posting up a little...it's been awhile. Kevin, If ya search the forum for some of David's experiences with solids much can be learnt. :) ..my opinion on the solid acrylics is that ya have to have enough chem heat and penetration to break on through to melt or delaminate it. Is real hard to totally emulsify the exterior acrylics. Such is all about boosting with products that have been somewhat unfamiliar to the woodcare industry.

Seems the more complex formulations get the more simple or old time they really are. My dear old dad swears by thompsons mixed with linseed. I always notice that most diy stain recipes handed down or found around the net use about the same ratios of ingredents. Here's an idea..in a pinch try boiling up some Alboline for a paraffinic repellant additive. I don't doubt the talk of copper as being ingredients for pigment...Main stuff to get the green or blue tones in concrete staining are copper. (I've used root killer :) ). Other metals are iron and mangenese. Of course metals would be the contributing element in what some are familiar as calling clay pigments. Interesting to think about...when it comes down to it though, wood care requires all the stuff of fungicide, etc..

Here ya go Rick.. Face shield type for overhead work: http://www.safetyglassesusa.com/crewsheadgear.html HF has similar. I mainly use oversized Baxters similar to these: http://www.discountsafetygear.com/t1ovclle.html They don't fog and have terrific field of view. The brow helps prevent drips into the eyes on mild overhead work.

In the spirit of Cosmos being reaired today... Ya'll look like Martians!!

Rod, you able to show us the 'air cooler' setup?. soley for the blasting or?...

Well Matt I do have a full face battery powered one. What they called?..posative air respirator? Is bulky though and besides doing stuff down in a basement I haven't had a need to suffer wearing it. I use the half face plus earmuffs, and sometimes a hat when doing floors. People think I darth vader and run from me.. :)

Rod, You use that survivair?

Thought the wet says upto 3:1...what it cost? Although I am fan of solvent products these waterborne products with their urethane fortification or catylists seem a workable option. Out here in Ca it can be tuff for manufactures to get their solvent products by the VOC. Formulating with exempt acetone from what I can tell gets them in but the usual result is lower solids as if they just diluting rather than adding more solids.

Probably more important than choosing any perticular brand or style is that of changing the filters often enough or having right filters in first place. Even though I have a full face battery powered type respirator, I mainly just use the HF twin cartridge respirators. The $5 saved can go towards filters or buying a new one...I get them real dirty and don't like cleaning the rubber or the harness, so I toss and replace the whole thing. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=44113

Possable curing compounds as Len mentions is something to consider for sure. One would think the concrete guys would know better since such areas usually always get some sort of coating treatment or other. On those bare/chipped areas you would want to splash some water on to see if it penetrates. Generally if it darkens and soaks up the water then it should be porous enough for to apply a suitable coating. Besides that the surface profile should be rough enough to provide mechanical adhesion. 80-100 grit would be a rule of thumb. That said, judging by how it looks, I think it likely coating failure by way of inferior product rather than prep. Seems to look like one of those new fandangled deck coatings that was just painted on to the crete...probably doesn't involve any kind of primer/bonding system or anything along the lines of being a penetrating staining system or 2-part catalyzed system. If ya color such areas ya really got to lock thing in with some mil thickness of good stuff.

Could be Envirolast Stain..some rave about it up the mountain.

freaken bold aren't they!! They sounded really concerned for your worry that it was gonna get done right due to your help..geez

That was not really on the test, was it?... maybe I skipped a grade though.:lgbonk:

haha..reminds of that saying about keeping enemies close..

Yea your not even showing us down by the pool.. what it look like?.. Acrylic shouldn't have problem with scratch persay due to the type of soft foot traffic. But the water getting up underneith causing delamination or clouding could be nightmare. Chlorine levels usually low enough to not cause too much issue on the exterior acrylics. Cementous pool decking is often done with acrylic. Hey you know if this was another one of them deals where the painter knew best?

Got an idea for the iframes Pat...Over time ya build up a bunch of videos on youtube. Have them seperated in folders specific to the type of work and then when ya iframe to the folder addy it becomes like your video gallery wthin your own site but your not hosting them. Or ya could do same with pics or with open forum posts where you have chatterboxed alot. :)

Who attacked smeone..let me at'em! :) ..probably them roof guys or fancy spellers hu? lol How's busines Terry?

Was gonna say does that deck really need redone..that is until I seen the blotch of the last pic. Might clean up ok with some bleach swell enough to recoat with same product though. Seems intact from where I am sitting. On other hand, Well if he willing to pay then give him bare wood again. That is deffinately a $2.5+ per sq. acrylic deck mang!! BTW..Is that guy the modeling agency guy?? :)

Pat, True true what Beth said about cross browser friendlyness. Last I heard my site was not displaying correctly in Firefox. I don't care all that much about it as my page views are still mainly off IE users but I do plan to fix it at some point. Originally all was go and but something of object sizes, etc. snuck in making things unfriendly. One thing on the use of the iframes is that I wouldn't recommend using if the place your displaying contains a very wide content that forces people to constantly scroll both horizantal and verticle. My example of the one that works swell enough for me is on my wood page... is the link to Wood Care Basics. As time goes I plan to add more Iframe as I can not deny that not only do others write or make good points but I also believe that success can be had by associating with the right places or folks. I agree.. never heard that it would benefit anyone in an SEO way except for the place being linked to. That said.. probably not a good idea to iframe to service competition or those under you.

Always a pleasure Rick!!:beerchug:

Look John.. I would just like it if you could be clear here on which of the 3 products on Olympic's 'toner' section that you have been refering to. All three have the word toner on the can. One is predominately a green colored can (max) and another has Toner written in big bold lettering... 1,2, or 3 please... Thanx now :) Color is simple redwood color.

John, I'll review other thread to see yer latest response but just to keep clear for here.. that fence was new and the HO used green can Olympic Maximum which is first product listed under the 'toner' section. Is why I specifically ask which product you use that never laps or leaves film.

Hi Rob, Sometimes answers are not all inclusive and but that does not mean that there is disagreement to basic questions that inspired things. Your stain versus sealing question over there is no exception in that most everyone is in agreement that the qualities of most manufactured stains usually involves sealing qualities but a sealer does not have to impart coloration/pigmentation. For instance, many people apply clear synthetic paraffinic sealers such as parafin wax (comes from mineral oil manufacture) without striving for other qualities found in various types of stain such as pigmentation or solid curing resins. They also apply clear top film forming sealers with curing resns to some substrates that are not paraffinic. Traits of sealer is that it can also include clear whereas by definition stains can not...simple answer is of course that seals keep things out but so can stains. Yes this is crossthreading at some level but you mentioned that debate here so I did not feel it fair to use the subdebate over there as some sort of basis for your deal here... Good luck on this deck though. I believe you need to focus on using the chems the way everyone is saying and also perhaps tend to defurring or sanding that deck. Pics can be deceiving...if when you go back and it looks bright and dry but it looks muddy when wet then you have a thin film of wood fur that wants removed. Sometimes when ya strip wood and even brighten it you can still get down there after and scrap darker stuff up with yer fingernail. Let dry, if almost bright or patchy bright, defur it.

Won't change in the minds and hearts of the majority of us out here Rick. Don't forget we voted against it. most us don't believe in the stealing of the meaning of a word...is uncool! :)