MMI Enterprises

Nah didn't forget Scott..Why speak to it when know one really knows if your talking about mel, don, or some other poster? Surely you wouldn't be refuring to my posts since I was so clear on giving you a freedoms and rights dispute. I mean you did imply that you would need a dispute to keep things unlocked right? Maybe you really would have prefurred a dispute related to your first post as it relates to the original thread topic and but are tiffed that you got none?

For most part it would be shared view if considering only the horizontal decking boards. Such boards are never done on all sides and must be allowed to transfer/evaporate their moisture in and out in a timely way. That said, I can not at all support applying such views for verticles such as railing systems and porch/pergola systems. Not only do verticles not wear comparably to the horizontals but they can be sealed on all sides and don't tend to rot from what I have seen anyway. Far as the project displayed here goes... depends on what camp your from on whether it looks better with a semi or with a solid slash two tone setup. I would tend to think that most HO would wish it two tone railed based on conflicting contrast to the house. Most ranch type house like that are drab to begin with and could use some spicing up by it's own trim getting a makeover firstly to break things up and then its decking system having similar color and shading to match or also break things up. As it is now the contrast of a one color deck is the only thing in contrast making for two single things snatching attention individually. Anyone understand what I am saying here?.. needs to be either all same color and shade or each single thing needs broke up by accentuating trim on either house, deck, or both. That just me though.

Scott,

Don and company?.. who's he in with? I missed that one.. Don, you in cahoots with someone in here?

Who cares who suggested?. They jump off a bridge, you gonna follow? Forget suggestion and excuses..leave and don't let door hit ya in the butt if you don't respect principles of free speach. You are surely mistaken about what fuels fodder when it comes to TGS. Oh thanx for the permission oh mighty one... like we needed your blessing and commitment to keep things open around here.psst, you seemed to be begging for a dispute so there ya go... enjoy Scott. :) Don't everyone goosestep all at once now!

What? ..all these fine visitors and no comment to keep the application to a minimal one coat followed by a backbrushing? I haven't used the stuff hardly much either but that I do know off past postings.. psst... I know how to get a shine going if that is what yer after beyond having the right color and durability of the wtw..

Along same lines as everyone else is saying... The bunched up condition of the rag with all that air in there allowing the reaction internally is like making a heat sinc situation. A container full of stain whether it the can it came in or a solid board has hardly any air internally to work off of to make reaction. A container holding such soaked things as rags or tarps, say like in a box, still has tons of air involved yet plenty of heat holding ability that will bring it to temp.

Yea but we know yer not serious Don. You would have it that a place you apparently like to visit and participate in fall back into archaic ways of baseless justice that offends folks rights? You don't really want this thread locked...well maybe you do so you can drag TGS through the mud abit.

Can't say I ever support locking threads down. Might as well just delete it if something said can't ever be discussed, questioned, or debated. No offense BUT, for sake of my point I'll say that that is the silliest most self centered thing I heard all day Scott. This thread isn't about you and your post or your authoritarian giving of time for someone to dispute it. Since when should such have time limit? Since when are other posters involved here disregarded on how much time they would wish to give to their disputers? Just leave and forget about your intrusion into passing say. I don't see B&R talking about lockdowns! How selfish of you! Hows that Holmes for a dispute? :) I would be glad to continue if it means prevention of another fiasco about rights of members.. Umm er, hey PTstate..ya gettin this BS?

That was a long post Scott..not much waste involved neither. I give it a big thumbs up and a 5 star.. :) ps- now hush up..yer wasting space..haha

Link to strengths and evaporation speeds of common solvents used in the painting and staining trades: ICS on Thinner --------------------------------------------------------------------- Solvents, Thinners, and Diluents Solvents, Thinners, and Diluents; What's the Difference? Not a lot . . .if we're only concerned about liquids that evaporate. However, ask a paint chemist and you will be told that thinners thin or dilute and solvents dissolve other substances. Water, for example, is a solvent for sugar and salt. That is, water will dissolve sugar or salt. However, water is not a solvent for latex paints . . . it is a thinner or diluent. Water doesn't dissolve the latex resin; it simply thins or dilutes the mixture of paint ingredients. Likewise, water is neither a solvent nor a thinner when mixed with cooking oil. Chemists say the two are immiscible - they don't mix (remember the old adage, oil & water don't mix). Oil won't dissolve water and water won't dissolve oil. In this case, water is neither a solvent, thinner, or diluent. When paint chemists discuss solvents, they discuss the ability of liquids to dissolve other liquids or powders . . . such as the resin or binder in paint formulations. Paint chemists are also concerned about evaporation rates. If the solvents evaporate too fast, the paint will skin over before it cures. Wrinkles may form or a haze may form on the surface. If the solvents evaporate too slow, the paint will surface cure and trap the solvents inside, resulting in bubbles and blisters. Evaporation rate and flammability are closely related and the chemist must pay close attention when developing paints for commercial and do-it-yourself use. It only takes a small spark to ignite paints made with fast evaporating solvents. Paint chemists are also concerned about solvent costs and will often use more than one "solvent" in an attempt to balance expensive solvents with less expensive diluents. The chemists walk a fine line optimizing the paint's performance and cost. The chemists also consider other performance factors when deciding which solvents to use. They look at flow and leveling, affect on gloss, sag resistance, blush, bloom and haze resistance. Many of the solvents in today's paints and coatings are derived from crude oil during the refining process. These solvents are often referred to as petroleum distillates. Mineral spirits is probably the most widely recognized "paint thinner" which is refined from crude oil. The most common "solvents" include: Denatured Alcohol, Lacquer Thinner, Toluene, Acetone, VM & P Naphtha, Paint Thinner, Mineral Spirits, Xylene and M.E.K. Before we discuss each of these "solvents", we need to talk about strength in a little more detail. Solvents are rated according to their power or KB value. The name - KB - comes from a test known as the Kari-Butanol test which measures relative strengths. The higher the KB the more powerful or "hotter" the solvent and typically the more expensive. Most of today's paints are supplied as thin or thick as they should be for proper application. However, most labels do give instructions for thinning and/or clean-up. Its important to make sure you are properly informed about thinning paints. If the wrong amount or type of "thinner" is used, the paint will simply not deliver the expected performance and EPA regulations will most likely be violated. Ensure you use the right "solvent" by understanding each product and its recommended use(s). Denatured Alcohol is ethanol which has been modified with wood alcohol and other solvents to make it unfit for human consumption. Denatured alcohol is a solvent for shellac and a few less widely used natural resins. It may be used as a lacquer thinner, in small amounts, or as a clean-up solvent for paint removers used in wood refinishing. Other uses include glass & metal cleaning or as a fuel for marine stoves. VM&P (Varnish Makers & Painters) Naphtha is a petroleum distillate which resembles regular Mineral Spirits or paint thinner in strength. A low flash point and fast evaporation make it generally unsuited for air dry solvent borne architectural coatings. It behaves much like lighter fluid and can be used for cleaning up certain residues like masking tape or stickered labels - but be careful of the flammability. Lacquer Thinner, also a petroleum distillate, is a blend of solvents for use in nitrocellulose lacquers as a partial replacement for the more expensive Toluene. It is also used in some epoxy and automotive finishes, as well as in gravure inks for printing. The mixture is reasonably strong and fast drying. In addition to its stated use, lacquer thinner is sometimes used as a clean-up solvent for "oil-based" products and makes a good brush cleaner. Paint Thinner or low odor Mineral Spirits is made from petroleum distillates. Mineral Spirits is a general purpose solvent used in the manufacture of most oil-based trade sales paints. It is excellent for thinning oil-based paints, degreasing tools and general household cleaning since its flash point is above 100° F. Xylene, similar to Toluene, is also strong and fast acting but evaporates at a much slower rate than Toluene. Many oil/alkyd resins are made with Xylene and it is frequently used in aluminum paints to promote leafing. Even though its evaporation is slower than Toluene, it is too fast for most brush applications. Consequently, its use is really limited to paints applied by spray gun and as a clean-up solvent. Acetone, and other ketones, are not naturally occurring products . . . they are manufactured from petroleum distillates. As a group, ketones are versatile and efficient . . . usually imparting low viscosity very quickly. Ketones are often used in maintenance paints like vinyls, phenolics, acrylates and chlorinated rubber coatings. Acetone is a strong, fast acting solvent, cleaner and remover for inks, resins, adhesives and contact cement. It may also be used as a clean-up solvent after fiberglass projects. M.E.K. is essentially equivalent to Acetone in power, but is less soluble in water and evaporates slower. It is a strong, fast acting solvent, cleaner and remover for inks, resins, adhesives and contact cement. Turpentine is derived from steam distillation of pine sap and is the oldest solvent used in coatings. Paints around the turn of the century were made with white lead pigment, linseed oil, Japan drier and turpentine. Turpentine has limited use as it is more expensive than typical solvents. Plus it has a narrow range of solvency and possesses quite an odor. Like kerosene, its use in coatings is very small. Kerosene is a petroleum distillate that is used only when extremely low solvency and slow evaporation are desired. Possible uses might include paste wood fillers and putties. Old timers incorporated a little kerosene in interior and exterior "oil-based" house paints to supposedly improve brushability, wet-edge and flow by slowing down the over-all evaporation. With today's technology, its best use is as a fuel oil for kerosene heaters, stoves and lanterns.

kinda been hidden away eh? Ron always digs back up the good stuff. He like a modern day grave robber/Indiana Jones :)

Run a search Florin.. same exact topic was discussed very recently. ps- well I thought there was a specifc thread but can't find. here is another : http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/wood-cleaning-restoration-decks-fences-etc/12995-done-day.html

ya know Mike may be really onto a better quik retail solution than the Safe or Low Tox offerings. It specifically mentions on it not for radiator use as if it may not have all the extra inhibitors, etc.. Although the one I seen at Kragen is prediluted it is also only $4 compared to like $14 for Safe. Mike, Are you doing that RV at a 10% level or are you pumping it full of caustics for downstreaming.. Think I may have a problem with my latest Safe batch with too much prop glycol to hydrox ;(

Is almost a thing of experimentation and luck BUT that said I can still attest to fact that old timers used to mix stuff together and use them that way for some pretty good results. I've seen long term results like 10 years by mixing linseed and thompsons but that is not what your talking about in placing one over the other. Far as layering things, irony has it that while mixing up a batch of downstream strength stripper today I noticed that my stir stick was not coming clean of Armstrong coated over with thinned lacquer. Actually neither the section with lacquer or a section with just Armstrong was coming off. Normally other stuff like Cabot or anything else mentioned on these forums come right off. Hope I mixed her up right..

For bio to work just like diesel..trick I hear is to offer some amount of money to the food place in order that they change oil out sooner. This makes it more suitable for use in that it still has energy left in it. Guy I spoke with that does it regularly does a quik onsight test batch to make sure it suitable. Forget what 3rd chem is utilized besides methanol and hydrox (methoxide) just now, but its use is related to ph testing which turns color red if all is in order. Other thing he stressed was having to wash the stuff down as final step.

Money back based on damage might be valid but when people are cheap as these customers obviousley were I can only have so much sympathy. Not only that, but do we really have solid idea what was discussed or what their deal was? Buyers remorse is sure to always put down the prior guy if expectations are out of line or another contractor comes in and tries to call it that the $200 deck deal was all inclusive or some such. They were ignorant enough to have bought a $200 deck wash or strip..so be it. Maybe they pressured the company into doing the work at subpar price with no perticular expectations or outcomes. Do we really know if whether it was explained to them by the other guy that going with deeper cleaning would demand restaining. Maybe they chose not to spend money eh? What kind of stain was on the deck anyways?. You feel it could have been cleaned of all grime, mold, etc, without putting yourself or customer at risk of a restain? I must say I am somewhat ammused on confronting the situation as such. I've been in similar situations at times and it almost leaves ya no choice but to comment on others work when yer standing on a junky job result. I try to just say "did ya get what ya paid for?" . Don't get me wrong though, I have on occasion went the route of calling a spade a spade when insulted or wronged. Nothing like walking in on a job you were to do and either someone else has done it or is right there doing it that very moment. That is just rude act by idiot customer. In posting here I guess I simply want to push the idea that hilighting ones own abilities in a optimistic way is a winner compared to focusing on others inabilities. The former leaves the customer with an answer to their questions of who will fix this problem when they screw up and buy cheaply once again. Eventually you will earn their business that way. See anybody can put down a job result, only a pro can offer the real solution by branding their name into customers frontal lobes. Let this post be an example that yes issues can and should be discussed or debated but don't leave it at that....In other words, always end with it being about you.. :)

Can be had at some Sherwins, at least out here anyways. I hear Kelly Moore has had it also and that they can order it in but that since Sherwin took it on they stepped out of keeping it on the shelf. Just checked the other day and Sherwin current price was $31+ per gal or 32+ per fiver making it about $10 more per fiver compared to going direct with Jake. For me, the turn around between order and to my door was one day. I like the product... Just wait till ya get the flyers and sample fans in hand..they're so good you'll be like what the heck have I been trying to push. Nothing like showing up at a bid with them hanging off yer measuring wheel for people to see and touch is my feeling. They look at their peeling failing stain and then back at the samples and it becomes a no brainer in many cases. This translates into a pretty big confidence boost while bidding and I can see the increased interest from customers. It's one thing to be able to incorporate the pros & cons of either a film forming product or penetrating product into a bid and another to be able to discuss a 3rd product option in order to take a middle ground or moderate position. Although I can't say anything of durability myself at this point, I can confirm that it flows, holds, and colors well at about 200' per gal.

As Mike's post demonstrates, the trick to comprehending the written word is to assume, for the most part, that a fair share of writers just don't know where to place commas in their writing. The spoken word is different in that we can easily pick up on inflections, pauses, etc. that portion things out for whatever reason. I often wonder if other languages are at all able to similarly play with words as the English language does. It been said the English language is weak that way though..

Quality changes depending on how updated an area is which usually depends on how active development in the area is.. Virtual Earth, Google Earth are options..The birds eye view is my favorite. Zillow is hooked in there also which when going that route ya also get a feel for the price demographics of the neighborhood yer in or how much the house is worth. Sq footage is usually listed for ya too.

Harbor Freight..

In adjustable brass format similar to pictured can be had at Ace for $7+ or $6+ at Whitecap. Those type are what come on Chapin industrial pumpups. Actually just bought the Extreme pumpup concrete sprayer yesterday. Is pretty sweet I must say. Came with .5 gpm fan and a 1 gpm fan for 30-35% solids. I also got the cone tip while I was at it.

gOD bLESS and get well soon Jon!!

I don't get you Rick...you do know that if it goes well as far as things like ease of use, cleanup, or is asthetically pleasing,etc., and you decide to go head long with it that it may very well be more durable and last longer than your current business model allows for? ..Who was it that said something about not using it on customer jobs as it untested or whatever? That wasn't you was it? Hurry up and get that job done!. I want pics and feedback for the semi-trans cedar. Have a job about ready for it and but that one color on my sample chain seems a tad muddy on the grain...Maybe I got it dirty on accident or maybe a darker color sample been rubbed into it. ps- oh it was you that said that: Is this job your gonna do a customer? Quik change there Rick if so. The open mindedness is refreshing. Save some stain for me please.

Hows about throwin some current figures for countersinking and sanding?..