MMI Enterprises

I'd 3rd the motion if I needed a shutoff, I'de try that Hudson fer sure!..Problem is the one I got on my float tank is a kin to that R700 listed and it wants to last forever. I just made a new piston seal when it leaked ..oh and the linkage fell apart one night also with a hinge pin coming loose. That would suck on a big tank situation trying to find a little pin screw on the bottom after draining or using all the water. :)

could install a toiletbowl float

test and test again...make sure not to commit to a price before you know it will come off with normal procedures..could be one tough mofo of a job!

uh oh, it's starting to bloom...lol

congrats then :)

What ya mean by prestaining?.. Neither of those products should be hard to work with. Just soak the heck out of the wood with two coats. If it new wood some would say wait abit (couple week to couple month) so wood will take stain better. If there is no mill glaze and the wood has been cleaned of nasty extractives I say go for it and get some oil in there that way ya minimize warping,uv graying,etc. from the weather..Some wood can start to show uv gray or at least a real mellowing to it's brightness in less than a month.

..just roll up with a ton of expensive looking equipment..That usually pacifies.

Don't know how much.. I just see the machine and fittings laying around while doing their floors. I used to have a guy at Landa just give me tips or repair hose for like $5 but he gone now and I haven't had anything actually bust for awhile. Do need to ask what they charge as I need to have all new whips and heater hoses done up. The hydraulic hoses they got should be perfect being they such high pressure.

Any luck folks at having Napa or other parts stores do yer hose repairs?

Rule of thumb is..if ya feel a big bulg or yer thumb starts to bleed when running hand along hose during rewinding it is time for a bandaide. LOL :) ..but hot water tends to more easily soften and blow a weak area at a cut or connection point.

Could be such, or maybe there is some shorting issue... Some engines that move around on machinery will sometime show a low oil situation by cutting out or partial stall during use before they go totally out in starting situations. I'll be darned if I can regonize where or how it works on my Onan though..never noticed a wire. If that was what the wire is for in your situation chalk it up to luck that ya found out problem without taking to shop. You should be able to plug it back in and all be fine once ya filled with oil. I wouldn't assume it is broke especially after it did it's job. Thank it by keeping it plugged in..

You got hair Ron?..

Aside from the obvious closeups needed for the test I'd appreciate seeing some taken of the main deck like the one up top with the BBQ. Seeing pics of both before and after a cleaning would be nice.. :)

That said..get a 15-20" low speed swing machine for wide open flat areas. Flea market a good source... Move them length wise for to get most time out of floor pads. You can defelt 1k' deck floor in about 10 min and it make for a much more even/predictable look to the stain through it's drying phaze at the very least. To go all the way as heavy duty as ya could on such get a stratgrit type brush for the buffer....aka- kevsters velvet elvis :) Only issue with utilizing buffer is that many locations will require lifting up stairs or rolling through dirt to get to area to be done.

Yea people have plans and their own busy schedules to keep in mind. Sometimes they have no choice but to delay a project due to conflicts.

Price is about $4.50 and worth every penny... $1.50 would be for just the sanding by a pro...some folk do the finish theirselves in the idea of getting a better finish. For an idea of work involved..Whether old floor or new they generally need to be multi grit sanded with the new actuallly requiring as much work or more due to initial diagonal sanding. On the finishing ya can get 2 coat on in a day if small floor (can be advantageous actually for adhesion)...2 coat is usual. Floor refinishing takes as much or more equipment and supplies is my feeling than decks. Ya have to deal with many things foreign to deck work. Have to deal with dust, popping off baseboards, cabinet overhangs at ground level in some cases, ventalation, etc. .To do it right ya can't be using them lite weight varathane array machines at big box store unless floor is already in fairly nice shape, uncupped, and level. It's all done dry unless yer that online Sandless guy that surely raises grain..lol. Need drum sander, swing machine for screening (between coats), orbital for edge work,..my preferance for finish application is a t-bar. Alot of work!

Yes perhaps not for everyone but it aint that bad a stuff to use. No need to suit up..just long gloves and eye protection. Don't splash it or touch it is all. For instance I hand scrape the goo up on small floor areas all the time. One time though I filled a 55gal can by pole scraping 10k feet...never again is all I can say..

Someone asked me how long I'll take just 10 minutes ago. Told them depends on exactly what process they buying and how long their finish choice takes between coats, etc... But I like the "What are your requirements ma'm"...lol Speaking of tree cutting...neighbor paid like $400 to remove about 15' of oleander. Crew of 3 guy showed up one day and cut it out and chipped it in no more than 10 minutes. Then they took 3 weeks until they came back to grind the roots out. That took another 10 minutes... Proper tools can make quik work of things.

Might look good if deck floor and hand rails are semi-trans to semi-solid and then all the verticles are solid..Just comes down to what the HO wants and if they willing to pay for full strip. Maybe searches on the forum using terms like 'two tone' wll bring up some examples.

I got ya Ken.. I just can't be troubled if some idiot wants to cut his own throat by using subpar chems and producing a subpar product.. that is evolutionary or part of capitalizm and it is no business of mine...The multitude and use of chems is way too subjective in the cleaning trades to be forcing use or perticular product. Always has been. Yes some trade are forced to use certain qualities of a product but that not a deck, a house, or a slab of concrete. Someone wants to put acrylic on there deck or house they should be allowed to. Usually any oversite relates to food service and bacteria..you know things that can really hurt people.. Some may have the knife be a regulated tool too but it aint gonna happen..well actually the length is someplaces or where you can carry one. BTW, I'm not even gonna vote as the context of poll results is bound to be misinterprited. "Should pressure washing companies be licensed/certified to power wash?" -They should be licensed as it is law and some revenue needs had for the goobs. -Non pressure wash specific companies should not need specific license or further oversite to charge for washing at profit if their trade licensing already encompasses cleaning or implies surface prep. -Non pressure washing related companies should be made to be licensed if they charging for a discrete washing operation. -Any company should be allowed to opperate a washer during their course of normal business without direct goobermint certification. Any company performing washing during their course of business should carry out regular safety training/meetings to keep their employee abreast of correct safe use of all tools. Is that not standard?

Is very possable that some color will be left inthe wood from certain silicone based stains. Always plan or prepair HO for resoliding or at least the resuse of same color as ya never truly know what ya gonna get..

Sorry guy... I should be more clear... In other words clean/strip it first with a hydrixide based deck stripper like hd80 while running low tip pressures. Can try a test spot first to get an idea if a good amount will come off. During the actual job I would want to see 80% or more of it coming off the horizontals and then switch over to the jasco only where needed. If you wish to get it all off with hydroxide then you have to move into adding a boost to it and keeping it wet by reapplication misting or useing plastic. If enough comes off with a simple strip though you can make short work of it by the spot stripping with the stronger stripper gels. Also you have to be prepared to do some defurring or sanding when dry.

Ken your whole post as a whole makes lots of sense to me. I liken the invite of more goobermint oversite as an invite that leads to us taking a mandatory course in goosestepping. I flat out plainly see that pushing for regulations/licensing beyond what any normal business would require by already existing laws is a self serving/jealousy ridden event that blinds those that would partake to the more important inability of goobermint to oversee or judicate most anything properly. Let alone the fact the wasteful spending that would ensue. Go ahead folks..red tape every entity and enjoy paying 50% taxes to the neighbors that live on either side of ya, go ahead and reward fed and state workers for doing such a fine job of taking and securing yer hard earned dollar...lol But hey Ken wanted to address this one statement above by saying in a perfect world a very simple certification on the use of a washer is all that is needed to prevent vandalizm. I would not agree that the idea of ebbing 'undercharging' is a worthy goal. Just reaks of jealousy and disrespect to letting chips fall where they may. I don't see a fairly uncommon event of a little surface damage as requiring some big trade organization leaning on everyone or making movement toward lobbying more red tape laws. Celeste, HO or a business should not have the right to opperate a pressure washer without a license? What about a hammer or screwdriver or lawnmower or edger or chainsaw.? Maybe we can push for organizational rights, goobermint oversite, or certification course over them tools too. Fact is we just making money and want more pure and simple..end of story. Doug, yes yes on the education thing. All the ads would have to say is "People using pressure washers should learn how proper tip selection will prevent damage to property". oH and maybe something like "Please don't flood our lakes and rivers with wash water full of chemicals"... Better yet....I'll consider allowing one simple mandatory gooberment intrusion. Get the powers that be to mandate every pressure washing machine display dedicated signage such as: 1. "Improper tip selection can lead to surface damage!!" 2. A tip chart with suggested pressure for various items. 3. "It is a federal crime to dispose of or allow waste water to flow into any body of water!!"

Jasco type strippers are for sure stronger than HD80 but they gonna cost ya more..Is methylene chloride and gelled so that it will stick to verticles. Any store/big box store will have it for around $30 (epoxy remover version). If you use make sure to wear eye and skin protection and plan on throw away brushes.

Looks like it ready to give up the ghost. Water and uv seems to have worked some magic already on it..go for it. Worst comes to worst ya can always roll some jasco on or cover the hydroxides overnight with plastic. It should low pressure right on off the horizontals..verticles may give a little trouble on the low exposure sides.