MMI Enterprises

lmaof!!!! :)

Thanx Michael..any pics?,where do you get it?.. Also what kind of dilution you use?

Many things could leave a film on a floor if you have it mixed too strong or don't rinse. I prefure a totally rinsed and totally degreased floor. Without scrub machinery the tsp, a deck drush, and a wet vac can make for a nice floor. Used to do it nightly that way at grease pits many years ago. After wet vacuuming always run a clean bucket of water and mop.

I don't see why you couldn't use the delevan. I use an air diaphragm/roof setup sometimes to apply deck chems when I don't feel like downstreaming or I need straight chems or I need to shoot it across the top of a pergola or such.. Just use an adjustable nozzle as pictured below. Can turn it down or just pump it lightly to slow things down abit.

Hey you extension wand/brush users can we get some pictures and sources of your favorite brush attachement? ..I imagine picking a brush that has just the right amount of aggression and yet holds a decent amount of chem without making a mess is an art form all on its own...

Do the feet get wet with them short boots?..seems he'd be swimming by the time he got done.. :)

Have not used the hardwood formula only the regular. It stinks to high heaven for too long either from the rose oil or turpentine. In direct sun it doesn't last long but a year or so. Nature of the stuff is that you never know how one board might take the oil compared to another and some can go real dark. Haven't seen it feed or grow mold or such though. Worst to use around here on the new redwood is the RS. It turns black from the extractives. I been experimenting with penofin by adding it to other products to richen them up a tad...overall would have to say the penofin I tried is no comparison to a product such as Woodrich or Omax on its own.

Yea if I find the need to put out some major amounts of product I'd goto the 19's. Gonna stick with the .011 orifice and 6" fan size for much of my railing and pergola work. I like the tight control. On those I like to put out just enough to where I am still in a position to do a wet on wet without getting runs if need be or having too much back brushing. I find it very important to not do too much with the single coat alkyds. With my machine the 415 is working good with lots of products too. I really like it with solid cabots. Need to for sure pick up a 517 though to see how productive it can be with the thicker stuff. Here's a tip info that may help some folk: Understanding Airless Spray Tips - Airless Reversible Spray Tips & Tip Bases

Hey Dan that 24 oz...that was the ds concoction wasn't it?.. What surfactant you refering to as saving you from using so much hydroxide...the nonyl phenol, tsp, or the glycol? ps- almost all of the additives we use do multiple acts of being a surfactant,emulisfier, softener, or the boosting that we crave so much to get the various tough finishes off. One may do one task better than another so in comes the multiple chems...Main thing I recognize in my research is that indeed the breaking of surface tension/wetting is the biggest key in cleaning anything. If not for factors such as being enviro safe and being less toxic to animals and humans, I would probably simply use plain old ethylene glycol and hydroxides for everything in proper dilution.. :)

Yup lots can be involved in building cleaning power, emulsifying power, suspension power, rinse power, conditioning power,etc. into a laundry mix or any other mix but yes many times a single product such as percarb in proper strength can do the basic task of cleaning/removal all on its own if given chance... btw, I do also luv the idea what Rod says about letting the chem dry when further power is not needed as it should keep the good wood intact better with less defurring/sanding issues. It for sure applies to all the jobs that are not real goopey solids or the 100% synthetics. For most part the majority of jobs will be the oil or the oil modifieds and so it be good practice to utilize the 'let dry' regularly or to at least keep in mind. Most probably familiar with it anyways simply by nature of weak chem application methods. Generally when using DS methods or bigger diaphragm pumps I get enough chems on that things don't dry out before I come back and hit so sometimes I instintually just don't even hardly spray the areas with totaly failed stain or if it is just gray bare wood..

Partly where ya live and then there is the fee. Just got to ask them who they are thinking on putting you with and break down how much is the actual premium and how much is the fee. Broker is gonna be best bet.

What product recommends or is good with those sizes Rich? ...Anyone else use those sizes?

Yea some you back east folk get some good deals as they only cover certain states. Out here we generally get stuck into lincoln general junk and even though yer getting same product there can be hundreds and hundreds of dollars difference between agents or brokers. I suggest Joe Walters as for one the down is abit easier and you will have 'line 6' comprehensive coverage that no one else can come close to touching. This means that what your actualy working on is covered at some level.

I agree Rick..Yes stripping is another story. If old stuff has acrylic in it you for sure do not want to let it dry. The emulsion of acrylic goes back to a solid again. If the old stuff is just dirt, dead gray, algae, mold, etc. it is probably fine to let dry as it won't have no grip no more. Also as far as acrylics go in general, they'll emulisfy better if warm or hot water is used. On concoctions of percarb..have had some success with using percarb and tsp together. Eats the acrylics in a slightly different fashion than the hydroxides. Best concoctions for complete removal I usually use are of potassium hydroxide and glycols.

Cody, I too am talking about concrete... I mentioned the other surfaces since the common situations of maintenance or recoating them often sees what yer saying in all its glory with things peeling or failing. But again I'll reiterate that those are sutuations of 'oil' and IMO does not apply here. Unless you tell me your seeing people having had used oil products on pavers or crete I have to disagree with you with no waterbornes over solventbornes... Concrete stain is generally an all synthetic product which is generally acrylic in a water carrier. Besides that we have acid staining as well as solvent borne and waterborne dyes. In the case of most synthetics the normal direction would be waterborne toppings over solventbornes unless your using the solids of the solventborne acrylics to lock the acrylic staining work in.(hence your term' melting'). However the solvent carrier evaps off and all that is left is a binder/coating that is fully compatable to a waterbased acrylic on either side of it..either underneith or on top. Is 100% acrylic. Again it is not oil. Although some would think it to be an acid job, below is an example of waterborne acrylic staining that is locked in (melted) with solventborne acrylic and then topped with waterborne acrylic.This is of course interior job but what should be noted is that the solvent based acrylic is tough enough to endure common wax stripping methods of the waterborne topping. I regularly care for thousands of feet of waterbornes that are on top of solvent acrylics, epoxyies, and poly's and never see the water product peel ever. In contrast though it would be rather easy to peel up or chip up some poly or epoxy if the surface was not prepped for enough grip. For most part all interior staining jobs are waterborne topped to help protect the work. Same can apply to exterior if proper product is used. There are some clear waterbornes out there that are toted as being tough enough and uv stable enough to go over exterior work. Am not done testing them myself though so I can't recommend them. I suspect that if they tough as they say they will not be readily strippable and therefore useless as a sacraficial topping of the solvents. In the case of solid exterior staining I would consider solvent borning over only an intact waterborne stain but if dealing with clears I would remove the waterborne product rather than trying or hoping for a clear finish. I say would cause I generally mess with the interior fixing or upkeep of existing or new coatings.

I like the 311 but yea the product info's should give you the best suggestion. ps- also, going for the lowest atomization may not be the best goal but rather the right amount of atomization. Having a cloud of death that will settle out on horizontals or blow at every whisp/breaze is not good and neither is a splattering/soaking spray that may overshoot it's intended surface. It is best to be adjusted so that what doesn't hit the surface does disipate into a somewhat under control mist. Besides that with the big airless painters you adjust the pressure to where your shooting an oval or fan shape without having a figure 8 to it.... I'de say if you have to turn down so much to avoid the cloud that you loose yer fan totally then the tip size would be too large for that product.

I prefure to say you can not put a waterbase over top of an oil based product without proper prep. To be clear, generally speaking it is not advised to put a waterborne coating such as a latex paint over an oilbased coating/paint that contains the natural oils/drying oils without priming first. Such primers are an alkyd/synthetic that bind well to and traps the oil. The waterbornes of course bind well to such as there is no natural oils involved. .. This leads to a worthy mention that many if not most hard surface foot traffic coatings use synthetic resins/acrylics in a solvent carrier and can take a waterbased sacraficial coating just fine...Good luck finding a suitable waterborne clear meant for exterior use though. For most part it is common to place a waterborne over top of a solvent borne in interior applications. Cody, your statement for sure can hold true when speaking of penetrating oils for deck or perhaps the pavers but I'd like to ask what waterbased or solvent products do you see people doing together in the paver world that creates a no no situation? Is it mainly their using some waterbased sealer meant for interior use or is it an actual existing oil coating causing problem?..

Tgl looks to be discontinued. For gloss I assume ya got to use the Cetol Door and Window..

To do without a reclaim/vac system on a pressure washer surface cleaner I recommend using a low speed swing machine/wetvac or autoscrubbers equiped with a brush type driver. Example would be a Stratagrit brand brush.. they replace the pad driver normally meant to drive floor scrub pads. For basic grease any good degreaser and hot water should suffice. My preferance is tsp (tri sodium phosphate) for to get a really grease free situation. If the grout is more impacted with the dark hard glaze type grime then I soak with a mix of differing acids like glycolic and phosphoric as well as some surfactants. CLR would be such example. Sodium metasilicate products are good for concrete and grout too.

Well raising the grain is always a possability with using water. I would beware though on such job as it sounds he approved the use of the semi-solid in first place. Unsure why anyone would consider the applicator a hack when he likely just used what was considered a quality product...Hey question. hasit had any time for it to settle in?. would luv to see pics of it as I can't say I've tried that one yet. Glycol boosted hydroxide should get it.

i don't see a video

Mike, Solid aint blasphemy it is just a reality. My area probably has more pergola commercially then some areas have decks and solid is about the only thing used on them. Such installs can go no other route as no how no way would large complexes buy into a staining maintenance program. Celeste, Bite yer tounge..hehe :)

I see nothing on it beng able to load up a form for you to write into. From what I can tell you get to keep the notes and then work with them via copy/paste methods though. If it did indeed offer the ability to be a background template matching the page your writing on it would then be cool but then I think they already got such things in the form of a laptop don't they.. Wheres the link on it being form friendly? Heres the links I see on it:A Review of the Adesso CyberPad Adesso CyberPad: a near-Tablet experience - The Tablet PCs Weblog

Surely the Dwellers will step in next though just to rock the boat.. :)

Letting modern day fast grown redwood go naturally would be a mistake. It will look like total crap and all dirty gray even if it doesn't show any damage characteristics. Just doesn't have the rich extractives as an old heartwood deck or bench, etc. where ya see it turn a rich black and good to go for 50 year. Can put my hand right through a fence or lattice board of the newer stuff after just a few year. Heck in fact I've seen people step right through a 2x6 deck plank on 20 year old deck where the initial protection scheme went by the wayside. Don't know anything about the Alaskan Cedar. Rs is easiest but I can't see it giving you long term protection like you want.Woodrich would be easier option than woodtux. But IMHO none will come close in durability to the Omax option...Most are not likely to suggest you trying to get away with using a pumpup on a pergola with any of these stains so I suggest you rent an airless for a day. ps- James.. it's all relative.. could say same for a wooden deck or a wooden house..you gonna suggest people grow vines all over their deck or house and forget about it? Be serious here. This guy has a specific aesthetic look and long term goal/result. He wants a mercedes and it sounds like yer pushing a yugo and trying to make it sound like a ceramic engined postal truck that isn't even in production yet.