MMI Enterprises

As Rich brings up reclaim...it would be important to know yourareas rules and whether the mall drains run to waterways or to a system yer allowed to dump to. Using a full on recovery unit that vacuums up your waste water might be in order. Besides that advice I'd say your not going to want to high pressure or use strong detergents on asphalt as it is made of oil and you'll degrade it that much quiker..just rinse it, even that will be major chore though unless lots of gpm. Also doing 50k of crete is a job for a surface cleaner attachment for your pressure washer unit...Hope this helps. Might want to let your fingers do the walking by searching some of these things out by using the search function. There is a lots of infos available in the forums. Fenner, you watch Lost?

John you said wand and surface cleaner.... If a slow rise and fall I suggest looking for debri in any float tank, hose filters, or pulling the pumps check valves to see if there is shavings, etc. keeping them open at times. If all clear then it sounds like time to change some pump packing rings.

yup, in seeing all that work..Looks like 8 cents without testing

Sodium Tripolyphosphate -STPP or STP-cas#7758-29-4 - $1.50 per lb. Trisodium Phosphate -TSP-cas#7601-54-9 -$1.37 per lb.

check for debri clogging tips, filters, maybe pump checkvalves

Try a small local gas supplier/distrubuter. Their additives/cleaners come in the big caged totes. They sell to the farmers and sometimes have empties..moreso in spring/summer though.

Antifreeze it.. :)

geez..here we go again..lol... Personally I've had no issues with neither nice smooth wood or percarb. Would I rather use bleach or never go smoother than 80 grit? Maybe due to expense factors or what products are to be used on deck or what type customer/landscape is involved. Nice dry wood without much oil/extractives that is open takes and holds penetrating stains fine...must be the interior/gun stock guy n me. Taking (accepting) and holding (lasting) stain is two different things. I tend to think that often times smoothness that doesn't 'take' stain comes by way of burnish/extractive situaton more often than not in both new or prexisting installs. Can be from Ozborn, clogged sanders runnin too fast, and foot or hand traffic. But this is cell compression/filling/burnishing of oils and not really smooth wood persay by way of sanding. Dry sanded wood is different in that it is open.. Smoothed wood 'holding' stain or not is related to top coat type staining. Can't say I ever saw a 180-220 gritted wood loose its color or oils any different then a 80 gritted if same amount was used and absorbed. 80 just makes it easier to leave a top coat. If relying on a top coat then 80 may indeed be yer best bet for grip factor. For instance I profile some types of floors to 80..most woods I go anywhere from 80 to 150 as higher is more time and expense. Wouldn't hesitate to say that many are likely endng up same when figuring in that sand paper wears and cloggs up pretty fast.

Spray here... Been using small shurline pads on a hinged applicator/extension pole to back brush.. Often times that let's me smooth things out without walking on things. Would like a more reliable applicator that doesn't loose the pads or break though. Nothing about them but the pad itself and the hinged part on the one I got from Ace are worth a darn in my opinion. These are the small 6-8" sized things mind you. Maybe others using something else to be so happy with them. Need a larger more robust one here.

He could have meant the liquid hydro Dan..I threw in the dry version....that said, I wouldn't rely on the percarb.. I mean anyone know the pound for pound killing power of 12%(diluted to about 5%), liquid hydrogen peroxide(safe handling levels), and then the percarb?..after that discussion we then of course got costs between them to discuss.

The idea is tossed around. In liquid form I believe it to be just hydrogen peroxide... In such branded offerings that come in powder form the hydrogen peroxide involved comes by way of stable sodium percarbonate. Once wetted the hydrogen is produced until gone thus making the water solution time limited for use... Oxy Clean is not going to be cost effective though is my feeling in liquid or powder form. You be better off buying the percarb in bulk by itself to produce a powder based product or the liquid hydrogen peroxide to make a liquid based product...(disclaimer: high percentage hydrogen peroxide can be dangerous...visit ptstate forum and search that discussion out!). But anyways, besides cost I don't think you want all the fillers involved in a ready made retail product meant for household use. It has a healthy dose of sodium carbonate as you mention. Yes such does things like wetting, cleaning, etc. but pretty sure it could leave unwanted film if not well rinsed. Such film can help kill mold at some point but you may find better option in chlorine/tsp/borax mixes without thinking peroxide(s) & sodium carbonate. Run a search on 'apple sauce' within this forum and you will learn about tsp encapsulating borax. Tsp is an excellent degreaser and I believe it's residue to be abit more workable then others. PS--...that said I like the idea of percarb for some things..just not strong enough in most cases for thick roof stuff is what I hear..kill it fast is many a folk motto..

Some the boards been a bit heavy lately with tech talk, people not getting along, and impersonal dryness....in basic terms all business no play. So to lighten the mood I thought I'd share up pics of our new bundle of joy born Mon. and at same time offer a fun little game called 'caption this' played on other boards.... Generally people caption one for awhile then someone posts up a new pic to be captioned. Let's keep it wholesome and maybe stick to kids or family...k Please welcome Lily Mae to the world... at 7lb.2oz she my first and only girl after 3 boys: Lily being held by her 3 yr old brother Thomas..Although he looks perhaps confused he was very excited to meet her, hold her, and lick her when he kissed her many times over and over: 'Caption This'

Well I am off to work but just wanted to say Jeff that yer pureness in wanting to help them is truly intoxicating and refreshing to hear in a world full of people that change their mind about talking price for various reasons of gettingburned by local competitions. nyt

you painting them too?..haha... really are you seriously thinking you can get my podunk cow town to pay you $530 to walk around their house for an hour or $1030 for a 2 story? $300 I'de believe as yer good salesman. ....Dude, they would throw in front of a literail train or throw you in trunk and drop you off in the hood..This aint bay area ya know.:lgwave:

Houses are different Ken ..we know that. There are minimums to consider. This been tossed around plenty on the boards. 20 cent is not avg or normal is all I can tell you for here. 2250 sq. ft. single story house = approx 75+30+75+30=250 ln ft 250 x $.20= $500 not to mention about 150' of peak wall space = no way here 6 cent could work based on ALL the footage in rectangle shaped single story as above: 250 ln x $.60 ((8'wall+2' eave)=10'x.06)= $150+$9 (2 peaks -30x5 squarred x2 peak x $.06) = $159 ......now to translate to commercial for to sorta fit to this thread: -half it for bulk commercial to 3 cents= $75 per floor (no peaks) -but x2 the ln. both length and width for a usual quad building (2 tenant wide/2 tenant long footprint...note: ya can't x4 it for mythical internal wall space) = $150 - now double it for 2 story height and but just give them the 3rd floor to be in with the lowballers that are sure to do such.. - figure in expenses.. :) *note that if ya take all three floors ($75x3) ya get to where I think Jeff to be about at in my work up posts above...approx $225* Edit: sorry, the note above was missaid, incomplete, and misleading so hence I do late ammend... $225 is of course but my simple example of converting resi single story figures above to a commercial outlook only. Not sure why I was thinking $225 beyond that as I actually meant to convey that some the number figuring happen to also apply to what I thought JL's numbers would be prior to learning otherwise, ..we know in hindsite though that something higher is in order as JL don't apparently give up any floors as a gimmie. So anyway, if anything.. there may be lesson that all the various ways of figuring things such as flat sq.ft. figuring x floors, or eyeballing, or hours, or what have you can all be used to come to a balance point to be able to offer bid that has a chance to make you decent profit.. ...... To sum up, my price does not include chem expenses and the price would never be such with complications such as using a lift. And although some would call my $159 + expenses + PITA a real low price I believe it could work for resi some places and then translate up to to be inline with many commercial bidder. It doesn't if my way of thinking/including everything is not accounted for. I don't disregard and pretend competition/lowballers are not around and but I make sure to get all the footage or use a decent multiplier in order to find my balance let's just say. I'll let ya know when I get 10cent for a simple commercial building wash... But ok I go from my .032,.04 calculation basis on up to the 6 cent calculator until I get my big low pressure thing working right then I may just call it 5 cents like lots of other things I do.. yonk, yonk.

Jeff, questions.... yer amount now is basically 14500/29(if extra 6 r 3 story)= $500 worth of 2 story based off some undisclosed amount of footage pricing? ...If you remember, how might the $85-$110 you mention elsewhere apply to this..maybe you boosted to $225 per floor and another $50 for breezways? Oh and what yer definition of breezeways? ps- ok..our posts are crossing so I just say that ooopss. pretty sure it was you with them figures. just read it the other day off searches.. I search old posts alot so maybe it from 'the year 2000'...:).. psp--lol..ah scratch that..that might be jeff's avg. gutter cleanout prices... ..but Steven, the 4 cents+chems+awnings+landings,crete or what have you is still where I would be. So that may bring me closer to Jeff and maybe 25% less then you (a guess)

Geez Fenner..everyone knows you either tack on like 300% more ln ft. or yer calculator is broke. :) But seriously, he gave us all the numbers and the numbers don't lie. The size of this job being looked at as large is relative. It big to me but small for Jeff or William. Jl is like $85-$110 for I thinks a 2 story if I recall and we just went through Williams numbers on a 3 story deal of 296 buildings that works out to $310 per avg. Fair is indeed about $100 per floor some places. With that said 10-12 cent normal for a house..not commercial.

Steven, Haha I like your math skills.. yer exact to the t with what I just figured for you below. BUT before placing much into it you really need to have solid plan and everything perfect to be doing such low rates. In fact I only think it can be done based on DS shooting with big machine or xjetting. All is out window if lift is needed. I not touching any 3 story so... But if you look at this in a per building way you may see that the ln or sq figures translate into about $300 per building avg. or $100 per floor.. :) Lot's could come to play to make pricing shoot up from the 3-4 cent range... Here ya go..take totals of footage and play with them: "Was in middle of doing same kind of figuring so I had at yer figures to confirm for ya...yer just a tad off on yer own numbers..close enough though really. 1320 2016 780 1120 640 2052, 732 2160 club-296 garages-1044 --------- 3 story=10088'ln x $2.40= $24211.20 2 story=732'ln x $1.6= $1171.20 1 story- 1340'ln x $.80= $1072 ------- sub tot. = $26454.40 minus garages-$835.20 = tot. $25619 ----- If your $.80 ln. is based on 10' per floor then yer at $.08 per sq.ft' or $.10 per sq. ft. is based on 8' floors. Just depends how ya figure or want to dismiss. Extra footage for eaves,peaks,inset landings, outcropped fireplaces or rooms, etc. should be figured and so basing on something over 8' is surely fair... The 40% (approx) I said would be based on $.032 or $.04 in comparison....$10247 tot. with garages would be $10581.76 but I'de get every last foot."

Think yer way off for the 31... could be more like 40% of yer 24k figure....just my 2 cents. :)

The "it's" being 'it is' or ownership versus whatever "its" is properly used for gets me every chance and so does get's. What am I missing?..something about actions/verbs?..oh yea English. I flunked that pretty good.:banghead: Got to hand it to you Aussies..you all know yer proper English. :)

Cheated?..No, that would be the season ticket holders..:lgbonk: .Let me know you need any Carlos, I hook ya up for all next season in the hole at packaged pricing.

Closer you get to non-specialized work the less it worth. Client has to view full time day work as this without special tools or talent almost like in-house minimum wage plus a tad for for your outsourcing. Price it similar to what a local temp service would. Usually you'll only be able to sell such at $12-$15 a man hour. Anymore and the situation will not last very long as they be hip to just hiring in-house.....Now if'n it were night time and small location and not based hourly that another story.

Your daughters are adorable Scott... Those belle shaped dresses remind of dolls my mom used to make and sell. Every little girl had to have one on their dresser. They were about as big as yer littlest on the left and but the dresses were hand crocheted...guess I better start saving up for all the girl things.. ...John, I have a 17 yr old too!!

Dude!.. I luv the Pats almost as much as the next..but football kinda blows without rooting for the underdog.. ...Did I already say GO NY!!...oh and 'bless their little hearts'.. :)

Glad it went the way it did.. now my home state gets chance to commit an almost unforegivable sin in stealing some major glory.. GO NY!!!! :)