MMI Enterprises

I agree Rick..no presumption here on what component the writer is calling a drying or non-drying oil.. Just addressing topics or thoughts posed here. I imagine the product has a multitude of seperate raw ingredients. ps- btw, Jake said I was square on..anyone think that using that kinda language makes him one?..haha :)

Do it..should work. I have right angle orbital on air, just haven't gotten around to trying it as I tend to only break out the air for the palm nailer or straight chem applications.

No Office here.. they are resource hogs, take up too much space, take over everything, and hard to get rid of.. :)

"Linseed is a drying oil" Yes, that's what is being said and that is what I said. The term can be as cut and dry as ya like....lol :) PS- Here ya go James: Drying oil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia ..note how it's all about air oxidation/polymerzation rather than moisture evaporation that some may think about or write in articles.. Semi-drying oil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia ----more references---------- Lin-Speed.com - Gunstock Finish & Care Oil for Valued Gunstocks New & Old "Ordinary linseed oil never really dries. The "GB" Lin-Speed refinement process removes the non-drying linseed parts (called Foots)." --------- WoodworkDetails - Linseed Oil "Pure linseed oil is a non-drying oil, and therefore is not a practical finish for wood. This type of oil may be available in health-food stores, but is not intended for wood. Boiled linseed oil is not actually boiled, but has been processed (by oxidation, or adding metallic thinners) to speed its drying time. The remainder of this page refers to "boiled" linseed oil." --------------- ..note yer polymerized via heat only is what is called 'stand' oil or 'polymerized'... Doesn't dry like a boiled/blown version. Is also what I have always suspected as the problem behind that fiasco of another stain manufacture.. Never did hear a reasonable answer to why all that went down.. But anyway the order would go as such on the dry scale: Pure unprocessed linseed oil (flax seed oil..doesn't dry) Sun thickened (artists did this long ago..drys fast enough to do a painting over time) Heat thickened (polymerized/stand oil..long dry times) Boiled or blown (includes metalic dryers and or is oxidized) Hope this helps...foregive if something is off, I am but a layman myself in this.. :)

Yes considered drying oil but somewhat depends on processing and/or additions of metalic dryers. They can be boiled (dryers added), or blown/bodied. Stand oil or sun thickened takes longer to dry. Mix a number of oils and ya can get something special.. As example, century old oil paintings are still in process of drying out. :)

Well I suspect my choice stain for 09' will mainly be the AC.. Besides it's good looks and durability (which seems to be playing out as fact rather than fiction), I'de say nothing beats it's combination of one coat application and ease of use. Stuff goes on great and yer done! I also really love the sample sticks on the chain.. Stuff about sells itself when customer can hold the sample in their own hand. Here's thread that showcases an article on the product and links to the Armstrong-Clark site: http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/wood-cleaning-restoration-decks-fences-etc/16135-best-dressed-wood-stain-manufacture-award-goes-jake-clark.html

Mines more of a gear puller with arms and center bolt

Ok so yes nothing is apparently upside down or installed wrong.. What yer dealing with besides the DS venturi being of correct size is the nature of back pressure being presented by everything downstream of the downstream injector as compared to the other side of the injector. Tipping or hosing are of course a factor as you can actually see the more hose length the worse the problem. Other main thing to check is the trigger gun. It is said some them with higher flow ratings do much better at not presenting a restriction/back pressure condition.

Ditto on all the above. Wasn't sure from first post if you were refurring to a tensioner type setup or what. If it standard cast pulley on main shaft then the grade 8 bolting method is the way to go. Some older pulley setups on various machines may not have the bolt setup though and ya got to get creative with puller methods. I had one on a tapered shaft so good one tme that even after soaking with liquid wrench penetrator and removing the key that it would not budge with all sorts of pry fork methods and hammering, etc. I used a puller to finally get it. That case worked out as the pulley was machined instead of a cast pulley. I split the shaft actually instead which must of been an unbelievable amount of force I was giving it. Think that one I even tried heating and hammering on things while under pressure. Sometimes without the bolt setups a quik shock with hammer does the trick and they'll pop off just fine. Btw..I just welded and ground down that shaft I broke and machine was back in service in no time. Remember to check for set screws and consider drilling any stuck keys out.

Some places may have a pad with their own sump or the washer brings their own. They are like burms and ya recover to tank with vac based recovery and dispose of as required. Sometimes for real bad greasey stuff a place will bring in a 3rd party hazzardous material carrier to take the waste which in such case there becomes more issue with how much water yer using or what chems. Last call I had like that was for a tunneling machine that was to be broke down all in parts and put on racks. They were gonna have 3rd party oversight present and it really sounded like a pita of a job. Not sure who did job or how it went down which might be best thing. If ya want low water usage and best results with or without chems then I imagine an actual steam cleaner be best. This thread is abit dated but to address what Barry was asking about steam cleaning here is a link that was on *** recently that talks about how they work: http://www.sioux.com/pdfs/broc_pdfs/WHY%20STEAM.pdf In short they break down oil better and use less water and chems. They apparently clean by the water being accelerated by the surrouding steam rather than by the actual steam which only really happens the moment it is decompressed into the enviroment thus they use a different tip system and pressures to accomodate the process.

post a couple pic.. such is usually just a simple engineering task that needs deciphered.

Hi Carlos.. Hard to say as deck is wet and unstained. You use low pressure and neutralize it? Looks about bright enough that I'd think ya did. What ya gonna put on it? Probably abit too wet and cold these days for it to get dry enough for Armstrong or Readyseal. The apparent overhanging shade not gonna help ya neither at getting it dry. Might want to go with woodtux or a blend with some woodrich if they want a more in the wood look and want it dry within a day or so. Btw that thing fur up at all?.. Need any help let me know. We are in winter doldrums pretty much over here.

Yeaup.. the eye pop of that deck is near on the level you'de get from torching it.

Bleach, hydroxide, vinegar, etc. etc., many things can be bad for wood in disolving it into pulp or turning it like a rubber band..... All about concentration and/or neutralizing. But since it was thrown out as bait I'll go ahead and partake.. If you don't use bleach on a moldy nasty deck yer nuts and taking risk at future problems. :)

Yea it probably wouldn't be so bad if they used such in moderation along with some pigment...how about them tele poles?, that some nasty slop and go protection eh..

Then if unloders are same spec and suitable for your pump you'll want to make sure they of same type. Pressure/trapped type unloader holds pressure in line and gives a kick when trigger is pulled. Flow type builds pressure upon pulling trigger.

Did you plug in before the unloader and perform an open trigger test to confirm it done for?

Thank you for sharing. If what ya say happened is what happened I would say I would not be so easy or kind to have waited this long for payment. Subcontract relations are sometimes way too laxed in the paperwork/legality department of creating enforcable terms. Regardless, I feel for ya there. That sucks to not be paid. Can be hard to determine if your dealing with reputable people when doing business. Perfect world would see a hand shake sufficing.

I predict the possability of all 9 being used tomorrow if I don't get my arse down to the Valentine section of my favorite retailer before tomorrows deadline of love.:o

I agree it smart to get legal protections down and to try and define or make clear what should be expected. Personally I try to simplify the language to where it doesn't limit by way of specifics. ((biz) makes no explicit statement of outcome of work performed while client accepts full responsability of the substrates ability to endure the active (stripping) methods described above.)

a misapplied abbreviation of 'cash on delivery'..

Before calling pump dead pull caps to see if ya gut junk clogging your check valves.

This might be the first night I have to consider this freezing issue. Have to go up the hill tonight and last I heard it is gonna be a low snow level..yikes.. I don't have the air hookups but I think the one quiky at the input of my coil will allow me fast access to clear all downstream water heading into coil. Wondering though about blowing the other direction. I would just come up against the ceck valve/trap unloader. How much I got to worry about clearing that pump side? Guess I just found another good place to put a quikie..Need one right there on the low pressure hosing going into pump...so I either break out the screw driver and air compressor or I suck in a gal of winterizer..hmmm,debating..

My fluency is not so good, what did you say?

Instead of calling your leads as soon as they come in stick the tele number, name, or email into a google search to see if a competitor shopping/testing the system was dumb enough to provide non-anonymous info. This could save you from wasted tme of actually following up on a lead in sendng emails or leaving phone messages or having a problem collecting on your lead credit requests with SM.