MMI Enterprises

Lots in their own world and away from issues the past decade or three as they been there done that and feel no change can ever be had ..hmm perhaps there some other disfunction at play.. For instance it was just the other day I was being sold on idea of signing an eminent domain petition while in front of the grocery store when another customer (older lady) was approached by one of the volunteers doing the petition work. She about ran away clutching her purse saying something about she doesn't want to sign up for a website and something about God when they said what it was for..I was dumb founded.

ahhh...found this template for $66.. comes with all the pics and ropes too . What you pay? Template 13166 OmniSource Templates

Yea really ..even though both can mean to return a deck back to the way it was original by way of cleaning and recoating, sealing, or staining it has to be seen that the refinishing word tells customer that you likely don't change out any wood. The word also implies whatever strip or prep that may be needed in order to put finish on is also done or is available.. good stuff Terry!!

ALL THE ABOVE AND SOME..HAHA wood care deck care deck staining exterior wood care But I do think the general public has the word 'sealing' come to mind first when they think of their deck. On their house it surely must just be the word 'painting'. I would like to think the words 'restoration' or 'care' is first to their mind as they include or say so much but I just don't think it is so. If they read it then great but what they gonna stick in a search is the single most important thing to me. If not 'sealing' who knows.... They may just stick in 'deck sanding'. Many just under impression that is what their stuff needs period with no understanding whatsoever of any other useful prep methods...just my thoughts in general on the average person.

Hey perve boy... don't let anothers perverse act rub off on ya!:lgbonk:

Where is McCarthy when we really need him?:lgbounces:

James, I wish to purely glean from your experience.

Rick, Is it fair to say SOME oil left in the wood?. Sure is faded compared to the pages before. Surely that dark/wetter/richer look of course comes by way of the oil wetting just as much or more so then the pigments themselves. In a curing type I suppose the goal of deeper looks lasting comes by way of sealing in the good stuff so it can't evap out as quik. Let's dye ipe so it looks and stays like when it first done..haha Do you think it would be curious to see what the exact shade a dry pigment is before it is introduced to it's oil carrier? As discussed in Fenner's recent thread am workin on dyeing in a non-oil based colorant to get a consistant lasting color on ipe and do away with relying on oil for the richness. Examples- concrete polishing and saucy red head's :)

I know I want to say same thing especially on the big grained trim boards. All I can say is that is what the Handyman mag says of their Pella pics. The second link I presented shows their doug fir color and grain sample and it seems a real close match to me. Handy probably muffed up. Your doors you got pictured are what? The swirly looking wood to me looks like what is inlaid into a antique standup radio I keep in my bedroom. Did you say that is pine? Now my antique dresser seems to be mahogany like pictured here: Mahogany - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia but done in a deep old time mahogany flame color. With all said there are different types of mahogany, pine, etc. right? Maybe they growing the stuff real cheap and fast like they do with the redwoods these days and you get what you pay for in way of heartwood or not.

James, I'm the one all doped up here, why I got to explain a simple point? Ken used term emulsification...You asked in not so many words what the act of 'emulsification' of sugars and oils was.... I declared to you that you for sure know what emulsification is by way of using the act of stripping as an example. For to be informative for benefit of any unknowing readers: Anytime you are 'stripping' you are removing something from a surface. In this case we are not limited to our artificial topical/penetrating coatings in using the term. It is being applied to the natural oils,resins, extractives of the wood itself. Started by Rod and elaborated on by myself, Ken, Rick (blood) and perhaps you as well, it is fair use of word. Anytime you are 'emulsifying' you are taking component A which is in liquid state via act of 'stripping'/'disolving'/'suspending' and blending it with component B which is a 'carrier'/'solvent'. Coming after said acts of stripping,disolving,suspending it is fair use of the word emulisify in order to cut to the chase. Why I have just as much right as another to discuss such acts swell enough one may ask? Real world experience on the order of 29 years (21 professionally). Not on IPE or exterior wood mind you... that is why I respect and do listen to the specific advices and imput on these boards. I think some just don't take too kindly to being stuck in a box with unchanging limits..myself included. I prefure to be optimist and look for solutions. Just some insight into my person. ..anyways, carry on folks..the bush soaking threads are calling me to the wild.. :)

ahh yer just starting to listen o'le boy.. do a search (by post) and see..lol

Check it out, I open the Oct. issue of Handy Magazine and on page 28 is a french door patio setup that shows the exact same wide open grain that some us think to be Doug Fir as well as the tighter grained boards and it seems to be exact same color. Guessing seems not required what wood as they say in article it is Pella's mahogany Architect Series. I am only used to seeing mahogany being much darker stained than these garage doors or these french doors. The below links do not at all show the color or grain similarity but if ya got the magazine you'll see it as same. Either Pella is cheating or that HO is right. Maybe I scan pic for ya Rick if interested. Pella Windows and Doors - Pella Products Pella Windows and Doors - Architect Series Wood Options ps- wait a second.. Rick you said it was a mahogany job but HO didn't know what wood it was?.. you playin with us and knew all time..:) ,still seems like two woods to me..

Yes Carey. ..yer goobermint being to blaim is about right. Where I part ways is looking at the wife as the low person on totem pole or the victim. She could very likely have been invested in said company to point of profiting off all them bad business things that went down whether it was goobermint induced or corporate induced. Her profits in one area could be higher as shareholder than her loss as employee.Yes corps have to be kept in check along with goobermint and but mostly we the people have to be kept in check at how we view and treat our own bread and butter. Never vote for taxes on corps or companies that produce things and that you could own share in. If it a company that is in business to screw us out of more taxes or cost us more in red tape then that would be no good. But that is what people do all the time. They invest where and with whoemever is better at attracting them via image and dollars they can earn them. Why invest in a soaking wet broke farmer when you can invest in a law firm or bank that does the soaking? Heres an idea, invest in bankers and lawyer that only soak foreign entities and invest in American production.

Awesome!, did ya have the back of the boat?.. pretty key to be able to be the actual bait rather than the attractive flashers up front. Only been out of Bodega myself.

Thanx Rick.. did ya say if there is a difference in roughness across the grain? Concerning ATO... is only a one year product regardless of what ya put it on from what the CAN implies so no one should expect more... just punnin ya James... haha..I might be thinking of another product actually in the SPF stuff.....but now come on James.. emulsification is the single most important thing involved in stripping anything.. you know what emulsifying is.. :) Scott, my Creto comment was somewhat tounge in cheek in a joking manner. But hey so is the ipe denser then the concrete or just that the oils repel the water based consistancy of it? stick the silica in a wetter solvent maybe ahe? Regardless I would be interested in thoughts on the dye process mentioned. If ya can't get the creto silica in then just straight clear mineral oil it regular over the dye..or don't if it decent climate and low foot traffic. Concrete dye about same but better then RS at getting in there. Really should be no worry on the solvent use as everyone knows the oil based stains carrier we commonly use is about same.

So Yaz you apparently think it matters how much a ceo gets compared to the rest. What does all the ce salaries in America add upto anyways compafred to the national budget or what is spent daily oversees in warfare. If a corporation makes money it's shareholders make money and that is where the bread is buttered for us all. We are the corps... we are good.. we are not the milking goobermint, we are not the thousands upon thousands of fed and state employee that live off us by way of double taxation. We hire more so they can milk us more effectively. Yaz, that corp info is interesting and all but you got to come to see that your retirement and everyones retirement you know depends on all them little folks working under that ceo to want to be that ceo and for that ceo to succeed not just over his competitors but over that which would milk dry what he builds. The enemy is never corporate America. Just a thought... oh hey, this version on tgs is way weak compared to ptstates version. Phil would have all our heads for sure if he allowed in here.. : George bush giving all our money to the rich!!!

Ken always has knack of summing things up so well. I await the photographic plates.

yup fair enough James to think I get it from back of a can since you don't know me and we are worlds apart. Is yer opinion. But between you and I, I get it from the field and if something I say is just an untested idea I use proper language to say and imply such... Am sorta shocked that you been doing ipe for as many years as you have and have not said either way if you get the uv gray protection to last much more then a year or not..Maybe you did but I missed it. Maybe them 5 year experience guys have left you in dust and don't even visit this silly place of procrastination and 'no can do' attitude. My tiddle of wtw issue surrounding you is that I asked you to share up the info on wtw back then and but nope ya never did out of some obvious selfishness and will to ignore peoples need. But anyways, while some you sit and continue business as usual playing around with same o'le same o'le others will start dyeing ipe to great success is my feeling..We can reread this in 1 to 10 year and laugh at peoples foolishness..haha psst- I say dye as stain always seems to be interprited as oil basing.

Btw, This just in!!...Regardless to any possable surface degredation and somewhat to the credit of both Rod and myself you can get a product to stain a ipe deck and get it to last longer then a year. Not by Rod's method of acetoning to make room but by my fully tested method for penetration. ...You take concrete dye and mix it with acetone and laqcuer thinner and apply liberally for to acheive penetration of a non oil based dye.. hehe, you could also spray it with Scott's magic silica water/densifier and let it turn to glass to prevent any unbelieved degradations but you really don't need to as the stuff lasts forever just about. j/k..but seriously, give it a shot ..haaaa :) http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/diyers-ask-pros/11856-need-advice-sealing-our-deck.html

Thanx Rick. I agree it's got to be different, as it is different. Never said it wasn't you know. Couple questions....Is your decks smoothness the same across the grain as when before you let it weather a year?. Did you try to remove some the extractives with solvents before you ever stained it? I'll assume all the wood is just as straight and also goes perhaps without any surface degredation from when first installed until you say otherwise. I also assume you never ever sanded it or felt a need to sand it cause it clogs paper and you would not want to contribute to making varnish or change anything of it's orginal profile that the builder left it in. Btw, Was there any new test results from the differing acid use? Haven't checked thread in awhile...

Thanx Beth, I take it sincerely:lgangel: hmm.. apparently ipe can and does show wear within 6 month as the people want it to look like it does when it is newly constructed..imagine that. :lglolly:;)

Am from the economy is doing aok side. Am indifferent and make my own way as long as they stay out my business. Am not for bashing or taxing the corporate world as 'we the people' are the corporations. It is where all our monies and investments are so never attempt to double tax yerself is my motto. Am for small to mid sized goobermint and taking care of our own. Am not for a dorko woman that excepts indisgressions in her own camp for her own gain. Am for the principle behind self defense but not mythical self defense. Am for bringing them home and turning around and going back if need be or turning things to glass.. :) The stupid thing about trying to place red tape and taxation on the upperclass is that they are more suited to just buy their time and not pay or spend. Hence us littler folk do end up taking up the slack. No blaim though but for the dems inability to see it. Consumption based taxation is better then personal exemption based taxation without equal and fair representation....yea I know.. am not understandable but to myself..lol :)

Rich, haha.. coincidence and irony is funny stuff. You gonna mess with that dry rot? The stuff might increase compressive strength in either concrete or wood situation but what is known about it adding tensile strength to wood?.. Could snap in two just as easy without knowing if used on dry rot.

What I seen specifically is a combination of You, Rod, and James go on about how the most important thing is to get wood to last as long as possable yet you want to let it age so yer finish can still only last a year or so. Also seen that you believe the only need for to stain ipe is for customers desire of a deeper/richer/ wet look but you wait to deliver it for 6 months even though you have a solution to remove enough extractives to allow some penetration..hence I seen disregard to freeze/thaw that splinters top surface which happens to offer part of that 'hold' you mentioned. Your hold is not just by way of penetration absorbtion..it also comes by way of surface degradation. Also seen said condition up in Truckee but is irrelevent as I don't regularly care for ipe and so what I do with ipe is of no concern. Also seen it sanded with no problems. Also seen it get stained with no issues of fade or wear notable a year into it. What I haven't seen yet is anything new here in this thread in way of education not already offered in forum or readily available on other sites or from book yet some would have it that the last bit in here is about educating me.What am I waiting to see?..Am waiting to see Ken sand that deck and stain it before the cows go out to range again. James, no offense but the one liner attempt to play yer experience is lame and tiring..., you ever actually put up? Aka- Where was your eperience when people needed wtw to dry? Never happened did it?. You went and supposedly shown a bunch of folk a simple way and yet far as I ever saw you never shared. I felt that was like hanging people out to dry..pretty much just like yer ipe. Rod, yep am a bit arguementative these past few days... probably due to being laid up and on pain killers. Regardless am entitled to my opinion that there no sense in letting ipe age without stain anymore then it already has. But hey if you want to see diservice to customer in allowing their wood to age I would be glad to help you out.....I take a fresh board, stain half, caliper measure it's thickness, and place it suspended up in the weather around Tahoe over the winter. I'll go back in summer and macro photograph the untreated surface compared to the treated and check out it's straightness and then recaliper measure it's thickness after cleaning. If it just as straight, just as thick, and cross grain roughness is same on the untreated then I could eat crow. Granted it may be extremely marginal but who cares. Am not into adding wear to customers wood if I can avoid.....stain it, stain it again. :)

Hi Rich, Ok check it out and make sure to check out the molecular happenings of the cretowood as described on Scotts site. The makers of the product describe the reactive situation of creating glasslike structures on and between the cells is about same as for concrete.The getting the dye/stain in there before or during is the key to pigment longevity. Next time I got some brown oiless (rare) I'll do a two step process where I first stain a test board and then harden the wood with thinned liquihard. Should be a good test.. right up there with mixing thompsons and boiled linseed..hehe. :)