MMI Enterprises

Maybe motor or burner parts availability could be issue as others are saying but aren't the better pumps from over there in his neck of the woods? If I were to spend that kind of money I would be going with a deisel motor and deisel burner regardless to the deisel being more popular over there. Your on different voltage right?. I would go with unit from over there as I would not want to contemplate the incompatabilities involved with the switches, generator, burner, power outlets. etc...but that just my 2 cents.

Mind posting up said verbage?

Scott yer no fun..you left out all the fun sins of life like wallowing in ***, drugs, and rock'n roll or buying Harley's and sports cars. What about African safari's or sportsman trips to Alaska, NewZealand, or Chile? Maybe pigs on a spit with hula girls running about could be fit in as well.

Happened up on a Wagner 4275 diaphragm airless with a Graco SG3 gun (415 tip) for $80 so couldn't resist trying it out. Anyone got anything good or bad to say on it or some tip advice? Not sure if it will run oil base without getting wasted right out the gate or not.... Runs off my recently installed truck inverter which my air compressor won't so hopefully I am set for more situations. The other day my compressor which runs my hvlp kept flipping breakers and I wasted my whole day hand brushing posts and a pergola roof.

Is short season on some rivers...wish I had a dry suit for the cold water.

The machine I was asking if you knew how to setup is not a compressor but rather a major floor grinder/polisher. Note how the specs I listed mentions single or 3 phaze...Was considering the purchase of a unit but I'll likely pass on it... Specs on this sprayer is about equivelent to a Magnum xr7 or xr9 down at HD which run close to $700. Actually supposed to have higher flow at .45 gpm then those but from how you sound it won't last like other brands. Ah well, regardless though if the wagner lasts long I did get the sg3 gun out this $80 deal. Gun alone is $120 down at HD..bought the 311 tip today so now I got a stain tip to do small fan and then the 415 for larger areas and heavier products. On the inverter..Think the Aims ran me $80 on Ebay..another good deal . On reclaim... my reclaim is still sorta in progress. I have various parts laying around all ready to go for a dedicated setup.. 24 volt dc lamb motors, 110 lamb motors, 2" carpet cleaning hose. wet vac and steam cleaner tanks. etc., etc. ,....but really I already have something else that works fine. I have 32" and 20" Auto scrubbers that run on deep cycles. I just park them with the curved sqweegie down where the water flows and leave the vacs running. Haven't had case yet where I needed to burm a drain or stop work to dump or sump. The big one holds something like 20 gal. and when I use hot water much of it evaps before it gets to machine. I have a Little Giant sump pump that I may stick inside the big machine. If I do it I will stick a bulkhead up through the top lid to keep the tank stock. Is expensive scrubber costing more than a pressure washer that I prefure not to change too much from stock. So but you could do same thing with a smaller used battery or ac powered scrubber and sump pump it to land. You can snag those 17" or 20" sized machines used for about $400 on up either battery or ac powered. Some sqweegie are straight and would need to be slanted to allow water in the first sqweegie as they meant to ride over liquid to suck it up. Will come in around outside edge after a puddle forms though. My big machine has curved sqweegie that has slots and allows water right in. If it smooth concrete I just drive it up where the flow of water came from to clean up the sludge I did not bother to pressure wash all the way to the drain area. I don't do that on blacktop though. Have seen those gold vac's you speak of as I dabble in mining. I don't think the extra expense of the 2cycle motor which is meant for use in remote places is justifiable compared to a dc lamb motor. Auto scrubbers, commercial wet vacs, and portable steam cleaners all use lamb motors. Some 24 volt, some 36 volt, some 110ac. They run about $150. If you want serious reclaim I do have a gold dredge with a 300+ gpm keen pump... It passes 4" rocks and sucks up fish from 25 feet under the water..haha ..I have no time to use it. Wish I did though.. :)

Hi Rich, I don't know if it be considered a small diaphragm or not. Here's link to it: Wagner 4275 Paint Sprayer (Reconditioned) - Obsolete Items The inverter I got is an Aims 2500 watt: 2500 Watt Modified Power Inverters Got to go one step up in order to turn my compressor on. I'm told problem with trying to run high amp motors off an inverter is they need upto like 3 times the continuous power. This Wagner sprayer ran off my inverter in a quik test but haven't tested it in actual use for a length of time. About the breaker flipping..unsure why this one customers kept flipping from the compressor. Was able to get it turning if I let air out of tank and line. Was weird like he had no amps. Have upgraded a few breakers out in the garage to run welder and spa but I hardly want to be messing in a customers box for small jobs. But hey do you know how to setup a machine to run off house current when it's specs read : Voltage- 3x230V/60hz Phase- Single or Three Phase Amperage- 21.1A

Think the clr uses glycolic acid.. I've sweetened it stronger with oxalic. At some point you'll start to take dye out of cheap colored grout. For tile it helps to have a scrub brush attached to a low speed buffer. I use stratagrit but note that it can be a bit too strong on shiny ceramics if that is what yer dealing with.

maybe try deisal or kerosene on the black stuff... Did ya try clr on the stains? Maybe try oxalic sprayed straight from a pump up or trigger sprayer at about 6 to 10 oz per gal..could take awhile to show.. If brave try test spot of muratic 1:10 with water and a quik rinse.

So know one knows this machine then? ah well..I'll review it. First use was with Cabot solid and semi.. I'll be keeping it. Even though it does not spray the very last bit of product past prime it does continue to pass air via it's diaphragm for recovering the little bit of product in the line. Cleans up almost as fast as my hvlp considering it has a short hose. What with the ease of quik spray gun adjustment, small size, less power use, and hardly a tiddle of overspray due to adjustable pressure I'll likely use it more then the hvlp. The combination of this machine with current 415 graco tip makes for a very crisp spray pattern up close of about 9"x2" perfect for spindles and 2x4 edges. Out around 2 feet it still carried the Cabot's to the surface with not much atomozation or overspray. Was spot trigger shooting sections of raised 2x4 yesterday with it and it's swath covered 2' up between between the joists and was still only a couple inch thick to get the edges of the 2x's perfect. Did have to go backwards in order to avoid the little bit of overspray but is not much different then the hvlp in this regard. Might have to step the tip size down to do this with a semi products if the machines pressure adjust doesn't satisfy the thinner situation. The Cabo semi I used on floor didn't seem to need a different pressure level.. Had machine just past half pressure for both solid and semi. Well anyways, there it is.. I give this diaphragm airless 2 thumbs up... Am interested if piston type airless with or without pressure adjust create differing results and also interested if they any better at getting away with spraying special coatings like the 2 part poly (anti grafiti paint) without worry of ruining the machine. I would imagine at some point the seals of this one will fail from using solvents for cleanup as they are only nylon far as I can tell.

Rain is falling right now and is one small storm after another every other day which makes for impossable exterior schedule. If not for interior work I don't think things would be considered viable or sustainable as even though things are being scheduled a couple week out the checks won't get signed till they done.... Pushing gutter work could be viable but it is lucrative?

Unsure of current state of affairs but as it was explained to me many years ago being bonded is for when you have employee and it covers their thievery only if prosecuted. Regardless to what the facts may be on WC or need for bond when it is just a sole proprietor with no employee some jobs will want to see them and then your stuck in having to explain to them why they not needed or why they are useless. This can be a good thing as not only are you educating your customers above myth which they respect but they also may actually be looking for someone that does all their own high quality work. HO's or commercial work both luv to know that it is the person they talking with that will be doing the work. You need general liability with some amount of 'care custody control' to cover the actual item your working on.

Aside from there perhaps being no etch involved here and it looking like leakage of an already dirty looking fluid, I could say the look can be recreated with muratic on some slabs. Depends on slabs cement (glue) and or minerals involved. The strength of acid and how much water used matters also. Is just like acid staining deco concrete and it doesn't always depend just on the dye itself. The actual color or film is the glue and minerals leached up to surface and then dried. All it take is another re-acid at a lesser strength to fix... But such stain can just as easy be rusted car radiator water or in this case more likely battery acid leakage (sulferic acid). Batteries produce the dirty sludge from undergoing charge/discharge cycles....The leakage doesn't ethc like muratic. A slow seepage of muratic may recreate this look without etching.. never tried though.

Questions for ya Ken.. Which solid? What about the 65-6700 series..see a need for the penetrol there too? Is it Floods Penetrol or other and how much is usual? I mean how many seconds zawn cup you usually shoot for? Forgot all about this type thinner for oil...where is my brain today..argh. The flotrol for paint is but a distant memory too..

oooo that really is a nice cleanly setup unit!!. Russ you never disappoint. Now I got to go get rid of some elbows . ;(

What no takers?..no one around that knows Cabot? ;( Was a challenge but I tracked down the OVT on special order and then I gonna have to use the 7400 via brushing apparently as there is no 1400 out here. I'll likely try spraying it and hopefully not clog things up. Back brushing really no biggie to me but it would be cool if I get away with doing the main application by spray. Would be great to see a readily available product line offering both self priming solid oil base meant to go over other existing products and a semi trans penetrating oil deck stain for the horizontals. Seems once a brand heads to acrylic for the solid then they do same for the horizontals... Howabout it Wood Tux, Readyseal, or Bakers.. ya'll got something in the works of a solid? If it worked with hvlp or surflo and same color scheme as your standard stuff it would be the bomb!!

Rich, You refer to the external type found on the front ends of light trucks? Think the kind people talking about here are built into the axle all wrapped up in rubber. If memory serves they can be half shaft (probably cheap and weak) for off the side of boat trailers or what have you and then they got full length for rv's and big rigs. Maybe they the same but just inserted into full tube...

Revisiting this as I'm abit torn on whether to go with cabot or with olympic on a two tone deck/pergola porch project....Durability and sprayability is mainly on my mind right after considerations of the need to solid over an existing solid on the verticles. It seems cabot still has info up on the 1400 so I assume it still available...? There was question above of what the difference is between the 1400 and the 7400 and the info reads that the solid content and thickness of the 7400 is higher and it must be brushed whereas the 1400 can be hvlp sprayed. What teh current scoop on the stuff? Was thinking going 50/50 clear to semi-solid of the 1400 on the horizontals and use Cabot OVT 6500 on verticles for it's one coat ability at going over acrylic but am unsure how it would spray. The info on it has mention of being sprayable but wonder if that is myth as far as hvlp goes. I mean if they imply the 7400 is too thick, isn't the ovt solid gonna be even worse? Meanwhile in contrast, the Olympic line doesn't offer thickness/viscosity figures to glean from so it seems an easy jump to either certain success or certain failure.. What to do, what to do.. ?

Auto tranny is a seal fickle multi headed monster. Bro has done a few to success but bro has repulled a few due to internal seal leakage issues. I won't touch them. Would rather buy a new truck or stick in a You Pull it wrecking yard special. Well shucks that isn't gonna work for a newer truck..better knock on wood..

Options vary depending on wood condition and personal preference with a dose of respect to things like plant life or other surroundings. -For stripping duties in removing old sealers and failing stains or in removing lots of grayed out wood folks go with sodium or potassium hydroxide based cleaners. (is lye, draino, oven cleaner/caustic). Purest form it comes as flakes or crystals. Surfactants and other chems are often added by industry manufactures or contractors to achieve increased performance on various finishes or to make a clingy situation for verticle surfaces. ... Generally they can damage painted surroundings, plant life, or you if misused.. -For lighter cleaning of grayed wood some go with sodium percarbonate. (is wood bleach, colorsafe bleach). Comes as a powder.... Considered much safer all around but has short use life after mixed (half day or so). -Some use regular bleach (sodium hypochlorite) only in situations of mold or moss. And some swear by and use it more generally for everything but the stripping duties. Works faster than percarbonate but is not for stripping finish and does not make for a degreaser on it's own. Can damage plants and bleach your clothes.. -For the neutralizing/brightening folks use citric or oxalic acid, or a combination of the two. Comes as crystals. The Oxalic is generally stronger and less can be used than the citric but it is said that it dries wood out more than citric making for increased stain usage. I chose to view it as opening the wood better to except what you want to put in it. I also believe it works faster and does a better job of bringing out wood color. It is however not considered very safe at all and is poisonous to humans. Got to use protections when handling it where as citric is way safe and in food and makeups, etc.. -Some bigbox stores will have weak versions of combo cleaners/brighteners all in one.

You do that yerself Scott?.. I had some the important spots like the hangers and tounge reinforcements arc welded by a expert welding friend. Didn't want to trust them to my mig skills especially without shielding gas..lol.. Also when I looked at the torsion axles it seemed the heavier capacities get real fat and I think you got to purposely block the chasis up to get some ride height.

Hi Dane, Fence work is not usually worth all that much but the good news is that it is fast easy work with right equipment... Walk/linear measure it, multiply by height to get your sq. ft., multiply by your wood cleaning rate. In there lay the problem with a basic fence clean rate being much lower than a fully inclusive strip/restore of a deck that might include screw or nail setting,defurring, sanding, more area protecting chores, etc.... Basic low entry rate for fence work is between .55-.65 per sq. ft. with .30-.35 of that being staining materials and stainging labor. Leaves you only a tad over .20 per sq. for just a clean in most case. By all means if it small then you got to work off an increased minimum hourly rate of at least $125 an hour since you got to use wood chems to clean and then you also need to include the neutralize/brighten step. Do you know how to do wood cleaning?. It not same as flat work. No high pressure is used and a neutralizing/brightening step is needed after you clean.

Thanx Craig.. I'de say as long as yer between 5 and 8 it's good to go. http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/chemicals-safety/10206-ph-levels-common-chemicals-products.html For sake of any metals in my equipment I would prefure a slight alkaline as well. Most stuff generally available and put down drains lean that way. With that said though if we consider possable runoff we would be better off at the 5-6 range as the water will only pick up more contaminants likely to be alkaline as it heads to bodies of water. By the time it comes out the storm drain pipe to be tested by the local enviro dude it's been boosted to high heaven by every other polluter in the vacinity. The natural ph of the drainage system itself is likely different from region to region.

Yea true true Craig... Whether going the route of wet chem etch, mineral deposit clean or even detergent cleaning, recovery methods should be inacted for sake of plant life alone. Seems also that the surface cleaner recovery methods could be big advantage on any type pressure cleaning of back yard patio/walk situations where puddles form due to drainage not keeping up. Then there is all that interior type work that can be done with them too. In terms of general recovery..The fish downstream and the overall satisfying the fed runnoff rules should be on our minds as well. You hear about that recent case of acid runoff killing a bunch of fish? Interesting to hear the ph range you give. Ya think the figure come by way of low acid ph getting adjusted up by the contaminants of the crete alone or by your addition of a slight neutralizer? Often times on unsealed interiors up my way like say on warehouse floors I'll see recovery water up still around 9 or more after using neutral cleaner through autoscrubber so I believe the natural state of many slabs is that of alkaline from minerals leaching up. Could see how you could end up about neutral even if you don't use much actual neutralizer after a low ph acid bath. Likely good point to make on prepping unsealed crete for sealer or finish would be that it usually best to rinse with a low ph product. On the already sealed/finished floors where I am just in a maintenance mode I strive for and often end up right at neutral by way of using neutral cleaners.

Only thing I know is I built mine less then a foot off ground with no problems running 4" drop axle and 4 leafs (3500lb only I thinks) on a small 4x8' trailer. I drop door and roll out full size pressure washer and floor scrubbing tools that total only upto maybe a ton so is no real compare to carrying water on bigger trailers you guys maybe talking about. If hitch and tounge height is correct there is no dragging but for the most extreme gutter pullin situations with my length. Am unsure how big or high the torsion axle setups would have me compared to drop leaf but it would be a major consideration on a new trailer. Airbags can be had for under $200. Had them on my toyota to carry pallets of paper.