MMI Enterprises

Eric, Like how a plan comes together..good work!. Your examples really speak to me well in that I have to try and remember both side of ratio must be added. The 20% is never 1:5 and the 10% is never 1:10...The right half of all my ratios are a number too high. I come up sorta ok though by way of doing most the figuring with the percentages..lucky me. Now I can move forward, Thanx Eric..haha

Hi Eric :) ...enough to fry, bbq and bake the brain all at once hu? Can't say about yer numbers as not only did ya loose me but my math skills aint very strong at all. What I can say fer sure is that I mispoke by implying "per" was to mean water to be added with chem. I meant "per" as total. The idea was to reduce to come to an end percentage that could be used in a variety of spray methods. I thought my 50 gal. total (based on avg. 45 to 55 mentioned in catalog) was exactly that..a 50 gal. total that didn't require it's use but for to calculate the 1:10 or to agree with ensueing answers. I mean we know starting with a fiver and no more than 50 gal. total space demands that only 45 gal. water be used. I don't really need the 45 gal. answer or an 55 answer. I need a 50 answer...haha So but yea my figures are likely off and is of course why I asking forum... until I 'get it' I am still stuck thinking same amounts.... : starting fiver----128oz X 5 gal =640 oz. (1 part) 640 oz. plus 10 same size parts (6400 oz.) = 7040 oz. divided by 128 oz. = 55 gal....(lol, I know we don't need all them oz. ,just fun to look at) What's wrong with the figures?.... well I am striving for only 50 gal tot. of course..gotta go back to basic math 101 as the 50 would be off a 1:9 ratio... Where to start in backward engineer I could ask but everything upstairs is mush more than it was when I started.. Is the 2% close? See I prefure to be able to use known fixed numbers, like the 50, for to be able to input into this other formula I realized awhile back after Philip straightened me out....well so much fer that..lol :) ps-- wonder how many times now I put out wrong numbers on things..ah well, close enough..rotflmaof

Birds of a feather....

Supposed to be some preseason tickets in my mailbox for the Black Hole... Anyone wanna go?.lol.... Carlos, Rich? who else near me....?

Based on 5 gal to make avg. 50 gal DS product.. I come up with 2 quart per fiver... 50/5= 10% (1:10) 128 oz./10%.= 12.8 oz per gal 128oz. x 5 gal= 640oz./10%=64oz.= 2 quart avg. per fiver Then so if approx. concentrate dilution goal = 10% (1:10, or 64 oz. per 5 gal.) chem to water first cut before a DS then after 20% DS (1:5) dilution it = 2% (1:50) chem to water end product for straight application...that right? ps- .. and so if that is true then for straight spraying I need 2.56 oz. per gal. or 12.8 oz. per fiver...??

Generally speaking if wood beads it could want either clean or strip. In case of new wood though just clean with the percarb, as BnR says, is sufficient. Throw some tsp and surfactant in there if it don't cut it. Having both the percarb and stripper handy for in the moment decision making is always a good thing too.. 'walk softly and but carry a big stick' Don't stain unless it don't bead.. :)

Clean it good, neutralize, and seal or stain it...Modern consensus points to not letting wood weather very long as it can experience dimensional changes. Do a water sprinkle test to ensure it absorbs... You can also go straight to Wolman's site, since they the inventor of pressure treated wood, and see what they say...They may list a time for the pt.. ps--- well it hard to find info I seen before over there on Wolman but have a read of the 'user tips' insert on the following product: http://www.wolman.com/pdf/datasheets/P_3_54.pdf

thought it deselected..must not have.. :) Hey about these 3 "no hose" people.. Who you be?.. There is some major validity in going that route. You can just hang them on one hook or better yet on two hooks horizontal (like a vacuum cleaner) when you make the loops real long like 6'. Lot's of gardeners and drywallers do that out here. They just walk them out or in on shoulder.(10 loop= about 150'). Although the guys get hella dirty they are able to drop 200' or pickup 200' quiker than a manual rewind. In terms of going around angles they way got us manual reel guys beat.

Except fer that np9/nonylphenyl stuff (possably the same as the banned stuff in Europe) yer recipe is sorta similar to what I mentioned in MAS (Kev's modified apple sauce). Can anyone confirm it is same banned stuff??? well anyways... Tambasco Sauce = Sodium percarbonate/sodium carbonate(washing soda/filler/oxy clean), tri sodium phosphate (tsp), polyoxyethylene nonylphenol (np9) MAS= Sodium percarbonate, tsp , muleteam borax (likely does similar to the sodium cabonate far as ph stabalizing, etc.) Works good on waterbased acrylic floor finish but so does potassium hydroxide and 2-butoxy at a more emulsified/deeper level.

He ever put the recipe out there in that teaser thread? ps. yea, here: http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/wood-cleaning-restoration-decks-fences-etc/11353-stripping-latex-high-gloss-paint-off-railings.html

Since yer game I'll add further.... Deck is small and no rails and low environmental issues of damaging plants so you boost the hd80 with a suitable booster (safe antifreeze, etc....research via the tgs search function), lay it on good and thick, cover it with plastic sheet for a few hours or overnight, then powerwash it off as high as wood will let you go without causing damage. (maybe 600psi, maybe 1k psi..?). If it firs up then break out the orbital or belt sander after it dries a bit...acid neutralize after of course before staning. If this don't get it all then go with methylene chloride product such as 'jasco epoxy remover' on the left over spots. If the hd80 didn't do as well as ya hoped for and it still pretty bad then you could do the whole thing in the meth since it small deck.. You could even go there right off the bat with the meth and no pressure washer but have a fiver of lacquer thinner handy to both water it down or for easier cleanup of resultant goo. Pour a gal or two in a mop bucket and goto town on it with a mop after remover has dwelled a few. Don't let it dry... My further feeling is you will want to have all the old stain off and go with semi-transparent penetrating stain. You try to sand down them thick edges of the existing stain and yer bound to be back after it continues to peel. It just doesn't seem in good enough shape to go over top of... ...wear protection, don't fall in it, and good luck..you can do it man! :)

..more like maybe this thread would: http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/wood-cleaning-restoration-decks-fences-etc/9427-need-help-ugly-deck.html Run...run like the wind!!...them cracks are gonna be way too fun..

I'll point out that the topic hasn't defined a specific industry persay. I mean feedback to stain manufactures or pressure washer manufactures is one thing but really no matter how big we think we may be we are such a tiny drop compared to the retail world or the commercial world that pays hardly a hair of attention on their scalp to these internet happenings. The manufacture and R&D industry make the products based on sales and feedback from everyone. Yes, if all internet bbs people were on same page then it would be what?..a drop in the bucket compared to industry,retail, goobermint buys and feedback.. So I guess I saying we aint all that and a bag of chips..we but users of products already made and pushed to us. Is like TV compared to the computer. One is mush pushed but invited and luved by the masses and the other interactive and informative for those that care to take an active role. ...sorry, I am rambling on...carry on :)

I not doubt the corps have their ear to the background chatter but know their numbers to the point of knowing where they stand... If they aint throwin money at ya to buy ya out then that tells me the answer is no not this decade.

John, Ok you mean the wood toner titled 'waterproofing sealant'. The 5yr-dark brown label is the semi-trans 'deck, fence, siding stain' . Is alkyd emulsion base that is tintable to whatever ya want. Can ya tell me is the cleanup with that green label easy or is it sticky mess? The semi-trans is full of it with their easy water cleanup idea in my opinion. I might have to concede and call it the toughest stuff out there though.

I'd 3rd and 4th that motion... :)

John, which you using?. The one I tested was the 7 year on new wood/brown label stuff. Not same as the sealer toner one hu?

HAHA.. coincidence has me talking elsewhere about that same stuff right before you did..too funny man. :) I should be more specific with other reasons why I discourage it's use in general... (This speaks to the small containers of the glass beeds only) ..In some installations such as decorative crete in hair salons the floors become slick in same amount of time as usual when it put in regular acrylic sealer. Situation is that of sprays and loose hair polishing (abrasion) the surface and after but only a month or less it is back to square one on resistance. It really should not be advised for use in the non permenant coatings is my experience and debatable in the permenant as well. If you picture a microscopic 'hill and valley' situation the hills have no choice but to wear down eventually due to the increased traffic posed on them compared to the valleys. After the top points of hills that dig in to shoes are gone then what you end up with is actually less traction due to less contact/friction points of the shoe traffic. I prove it regularly on both floors with the beeds or without by the act of burnishing (heat melting) the acrylics or urethanes to gain more resistance. Yup it is true, a flatter/smoother surface is actually more slip resistant. When shoes seem to smooth a floor they actually create microscopic scratches that lessen contact/resistance.. With all that said... if it situation like outside around a pool apron there will not be heavy shoe traffic and it will hold up good in a permenant coating. Commercial forget it...harder grit materials are available for such.

CHEERS AND CONGRATS!!..Welcome to the world little Joseph!

With that said I'll stress the importance of slip resistance of a product...they not all equal at all and the coating is what in the end makes the slickness. Measured it is called slip resistance coefficiency and some product have info avalable, some don't. There is no need these days whatsoever to think that if something is shiny that it has to be slick or slippery. Uncoated concrete, stone, vinyl..you name it can be made to have better characteristics for both wet or dry via coatings....scary though is that they can also be made worse with a coating... i.e- I have a Behr product meant for sealing that you would never ever ever want to place at an entryway less you like to hurt people and have lawsuits against you..

Ok..good eye Charlie..Some that gray in B) is both dead gray and stain and some parts I can see where it started to get clean or lighter. What I run into on shaded areas or bbq areas is that no matter how clean, stripped, or sanded..the covered area still always has more natural wood color/oils left and it taints the end color different. Is like with our amount of sun the decks get like driftwood color as if soaked in water till every last ounce of coloring is gone..different then silvery dead gray if ya know what I mean.. Is a very interesting topic aside from this thread I wish we could address properly. Was sorta tackeled in another thread about bbq areas on a deck but it ended up being situation of old finish still present. One fella told me they blend it with pads but in using different stains and all I don't really see it working on light stain jobs.

poll a little funny..I want to pick more than one option...

Seen a washer crammed into a mintruck the other day with a shell on top. They said they do hood vents with it. They also had the lift up doors on the shell mind you...is only thing I can figure that allows them to not burn up. Maybe them shells are tougher then I thought and can take some measure of heat..

..of how close the vent is?

There are guys here that can tell you about being able to strip via the chems through the washer... 20 minute is pretty quik..too quik in my opinion especially considering most professionals will also neutralize the deck after with an acid spray down. This also happens to be the part of the process that brightens or lightens the decking. Charlie, how you get that covered part to match? you mean you can get it to match before staining or after? ps- here an example of stripper through machine method:In case you were still on the fence regarding DS'ing decks