MMI Enterprises

don't mix percarb with hypochlorite

If your commercial aspirations include much flat work, and I assume it does since your looking at hotwater machine, then you might want to steer towards the 5.5gpm or better machines.

could try a toned down version of 'percarb modified apple sauce' from the 'apple sauce' thread.. works on almost anything in the right dilution..the more dawn the more it kicks off/reacts/makes pressure so be careful not to use it in pump up.. :)

Do they look as bad as these flood pics: http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/wood-cleaning-restoration-decks-fences-etc/11295-lousy-deck-finish.html

Why have you not run?..run Forest run!! 2k-4k for trailer 2k-4k for washer I wouldn't go more than 6k if I was very hard up. Seen better deals for 5k actually.

Thanx for that "must be kept wet" info James..was parroting what others imply and baiting folks?.. I sometimes word things as 3rd party so others can step in and shine.. :) Anyone else see the pun fun involved with the bird on James head?.. I find it extremely comical stuff....Let's parrot James!! Haaahaaa :)

simple but sometimes true..

Good advice man!!...buy stripper and stain for 4 and get the 5th done free...HAHA

If he resembles yer logo he must be one happy cheesy smiled buff dude.. haha..j/k. :)

Other than what Matt said, some might get percarb cheaper and have heard it said it not required to keep wet for it to keep doing it's intended action of bleaching the wood. There may be other issues of it not furring wood as bad as hydroxide but some say if the wood is gonna fur it will do with either...maybe it comes down to preference with sure fire results on either. I mean you want safety use percarb..you want power for to remove finish then use hydroxide based product.

Simple...air operated Wilden diaphragm pump. Pro's: High volume and pressure, high reliability (am told anyways..due to amount of parts), hard to clog, always self primes, no demand adjustments, runs dry, various kits for various chemicals..and to top it off, mine shoots every last drop out of hose. Con's: initial cost, diaphragm/parts can be hard to find and are costly, and ya need to carry an air compressor. ps- second choice is my own incarnation of a DIY pressure pot sprayer running off air compressor.

Now there is a worthy thing to restore!!... rather have a solid hunting cabin to sleep warmly in before opening morning that'll last through my old age than a dumb old deck to sit and vegitate on. ps..either deserves a well stocked liquor closet

Likely no bond to consider breaking here. The carrier in the product melted and etched the vinyl with it's oil color is my take. Anything ya do to it probably just be doing more damage but I still (with disclaimer) would have tried tsp and then oxalic to bleach it. Could work it into being more of a white etched look than an oily look. Some butyl could blend it but note that it can swell vinyl. Was it mentioned how long ago the raid was applied?.. maybe some time and oxidation will blend it in since you cleaned it. Did I say these are just idle thoughts?.. I really thinks if Magic Eraser didn't touch it then it's done..

..never use public laundromat (dryer especially) if Rod or some roofer has been around....sure fire way to ruin a whole load of clothes..haha. Russell, Due to all them reasons Rod mentioned as well as chemical cost I felt it cheaper and easier to simply replace the tarps. Sticky resin wasn't coming off readily with neither mineral spirits or dishwashing liquid an hour after spraying in that heat wave we had...The carrier evaporated so quik that the few cups or so of waste wasn't running off poly tarps to safe ground as I would have prefurred. Gonna stick purely with hvlp spray on verticles such as railing and lattice as there is way less waste. Sometimes there is just no way around not soaking a tarp though when you have to protect what is behind a wall made of lattice. The disposable plastic could seem to be an answer but really there not much difference between a full on poly tarp or the thin clear stuff as far as filling land fills with toxic waste. Chalk such issues up to a plus for the RS/Timberoil catagory of stains in my opinion as they can just be rinsed off to suitable land with about anything.

In the spirit of Wesley and Scott..ditch the slide-in idea and by a decked out Switchback with all the goodies...be the most satisfying $1200 ya ever spend..Bow hunting rocks!! :)

Rod, My preliminary take between two. (you didn't specify which Woodrich)...I now have the Woodrich Stain and Seal (wrss) which is a cross between wtw and timber oil on test boards of cedar, old redwood, and unexposed new redwood with both a smooth side and rough side alongside many other products. The RS lacks pigment compared to the WRSS (cedar board) and it is up in the air on whether it blackens on the new redwood as RS did for me. Gotta give it another week or two to see. On the rough side of the new redwood the WRSS shows grain contrast better and is similar to stinky Penofin. On both smooth old redwood spindles and exposed rough redwood the WRSS is very even and indeed looks rich in the western cedar color. On the smooth boards the WRSS gave only the slightest highlight/sheen to the microscopiclly raised grain when viewed at an angle whereas the RS imparted a slight sheen all over..Think it is but the evaporative paraffin element of the RS that causes this and suspect if I were to expose the board to the elements it would evaporate away in the sun. We already know the RS cleans up well off tarps and the like but do not know yet with the WRSS. I think it will from what I can tell of cleaning brushes and my hands. It sure does dive and flow..sponges into wood like nobodies business!. For what it's worth the WTW glitch had created a total loss on two types of tarps due to sticky uncleanability and so this is of concern for me anyways. Like who is gonna use lacquer thinner to clean a tarp with? Few more weeks will give better picture after the WRSS settles in and shows it's end results...but considering what I seen so far and the fact the WRSS is a wet wood product it is sure to be the bomb compared to RS.. think it costs more though..

That's an odd story Alan.. woulda thought they would notice theirselves being overcome or getting sleepy while they workin. I mean how could it get so dense that it just knock them out right away? Gotta assume they just laid down when they felt sleepy?..Weird scary stuff

Life probably too short to stress over second guessing. Done it too much myself..When the customer is the end thing to please theres no telling. Hey if they reviewed yer work and think it good then believe them. Have lost numerous accounts over the years and thought I knew reasons why and but then out the blue sometimes it comes through grapevine the real reasons why or I get a call back from a client I was sure would never call back by the way they portrayed themselves.. business is crazy, people are even crazier..

Is a no brainer that an enclosed space needs serious ventilation safeguards in place with gasoline powered engines. Even forklifts or floor burnishers running on propane can put out more monoxide than an air system can handle when the machines are out of adjustment or have poor emission standards. I went away from using the old briggs engines and into Onans after almost doing myself in back over a decade ago. Was up the mountain stripping a floor one time when a storm cloud came through bogging the location down with total humidity. Floor would simply not dry by any means other then dry burnishing it which took about 3 times the normal time. When I came out into the mountain air the headache came. It came on like there was gonna be no tomorrow. By the time I flew down the mountain it was 3 fold worse and I was dying about ready to pass out with nausie. Within like 5 minute on straight oxygen I was ok. The oxygen attaches to the monoxide and takes it out..otherwise ya die... I suspect I lost many brain cells that night and messed up my memory forever. Used to do rubicks cube in a half minute and now I just stare at it dumbfounded. ..please forgive if sometimes I mention or ask about things more than once.. :)

No monthly charge for standard PC based Paypal. Last I checked the approx. 2% is only charge..Guess the difference being the standard account the customer must innitiate payment and the merchant/pro account you just charge them with the numbers. ..Is there some benefits of QB over Paypal type Ken refers to? Oh it seems yer saying you get to do phone-in with it as well as pc based.. that correct?

Think this the plant that was about to be closed just South of me...for what reason I do not remember. She'll likely get state disability, full retirement, and her wages paid by Hershey now for rest of her days. What a trade off none would care to contemplate!!

So are all the call-in methods considered non-qualified and/or cost more or have a monthly fee.. I just want call in at about same as what my Paypal does.

All I know is what passes between my ears...last thing was something about 600 bil spent on the Iraq/Afghan wars in total????? Also heard the math translates into 50 some odd thousand twinkies for each and every American...well that what I thought I heard anyways.. :) ..grow hemp..White Plume for Prez..lol

On another forum we ran it through Snopes to get the facts...Urban Legends Reference Pages: History (Linkin' Kennedy) :)

Alex White Plume for Prez!!!.. :)