MMI Enterprises

Fenner never disappoints..he's like food! Just check out his initials..KF minus the "C" .. :)

Scott, With your result here: "I did this and my burner fired as long as it remained wired this way. I immedietly wired it back to the original configuration at the conclusion." ..we can assume the solinoid works and allowed oil through to fire..right? If that is case ya got to find the switch not completing the circuit. Use the following generic picture to weed things down.. when you rewired you bypassed the loop the circuit makes through the various items..As you can see switches are all series wired through theirselves (can be bypassed individually or as a group). The circuit..motors and all are considered parallel wired as a whole though as they all make one loop off power source.. ps. The pressure switch in picture could be either a pressure switch,flow switch, or vacuum based switch on your setup..simply connect their input/output wires together to bypass

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Yes that pic seems to be showing a solinoid. If you have a volt meter you can get into the solinoid wiring to see if it gets power when trigger pulled if you like. There are different configurations/schematics for various makes of burners but generally both the igniter and the solinoid will not have power until a complete circuit makes it past your vacuum,flow, or pressure switch. You really can't go wrong with having a meter handy for this. Since the oil flowed through soliniod when you direct wired it seems to me your issue is farther back in the switches. Contacts and springs go bad in the vac switches, and reeds break in the others.

"How can I raise it? Should I just get a smaller orifice. Would putting a smaller orifice damage the pump in any way?" Tip pressure is result of flow through an orifice. It has to go somewhere and so the more flow the more pressure up until bypass setting or your horsepower and pump setup limits respectfully. Changing tip size does nothing to change your end amount of pressure to be bypassed when trigger is closed off. So to answer questions: Tighten down your unloader too much and things will break as Rod said. Make sure you have no blockages upstream or downstream and use smaller tip size to match your pumps specs. As to asking you question..I wasn't really asking as Ken had already asked you what it was you were cleaning and I only responding to your answer for the benefit of both you and future visitors to this thread. "Why did you need to know what I was cleaning to answer that?" Didn't need to know what you were cleaning to answer you. You already know that I was confused by your posing dual machinery questions and besides you have plenty of help attending here on the machinery aspect. But in case you want to know why I offered epoxy info is because part of what we do here is to help others do things most efficient without damage..that is not to say your situation was such but that perhaps it not best to recommend epoxy needing 3500 psi to every persons situation..it needed elaboration for all...at your expense?. of course not..if you felt otherwise,sorry about that..:) "It had to be blasted inch by inch at about 3000psi with 200 degree water. The flooring held up fine." ..Glad to hear you did not need higher than the amount I said..(edit-oops sorry, never did say how much but that 3k is what I would go) BTW for future reference, muriatic (hydrochloric acid) or other acids are not usually used for grease or dirt but for mineral deposits or etching of bare concrete. The end result on bare crete is often a look of cleanliness due to the eating away of the top layer. Acids are however used to prepare metal and glass at times in industry..

I'd a thought it too big fer that..

Holy cow Joe..that's like 160 20k locations every night of the week!...You surely can afford crimper. After you get one you can make hoses to sell to us.. :) ps. btw folks, that could equal $37,620,000 per year at $.03/$.15 average floor care prices..scared to ask Joe what he would consider average though.:eek: pss. Hey Joe..seen your pressure washing slideshow..nice work!.. noticed what could be a home made surface cleaner in one of the pics..looks like one I made with info on the Hotwater Wizzard site. I used a 27" propane deck and lawnmower..lol. You ever get the chance maybe you can show us the ins and outs of one of your recovery units?..would be awesome to get some more ideas in my head how to do it proper in a DIY situation..

Charlie, Are you going to prime then paint?...what paint you gonna use?

Reed's Wood Tux and Cuprinol:

Celeste's IPE in ATO Mahogany Flame:

Everett's Mahogany two tone:

yea it was real deep dark look with plenty of contrast.mighta been a ipe deck?..unsure..I do know personally I like the top rail done same as deck surface... but yea some pictures need drug out here..

sorry..lol..is early here..

Scared to hear what Fenner will say but I think it about right. Some circles I not doubt it be way too much though considering it only take a couple hour max. At some point customer expects to see standard flat rate pressure washing rates due to their perception that the specialized expertise of a woodie is not needed. We know different though and can attest to damages done by splash and dash/blow and go/same as washing anything else type mentality.. The more you go towards restoration/construction/painting and full service in offering all in one deal the higher the premium you can get for all the individual items your offering. With that said I would not doubt Fenner can get $120 a board..(half the price of reskinning)...haha...just kidding/but not kidding..:cup:

That's really all that is needed or used regular..but let's see the under lock and key arsenal Charlie!! Know what I mean, let's fill the whole deck up and really scare them customers good..hehe :)

As often as repairs or new hoses are needed I go have it done with professional hydrolic equipment. They must cost a pretty penny to buy.. be interesting to find out how much here. If it aint high quality equipment though I don't think I would want to trust it..A person can get majorly slit open from the wires of a flailing hose and bleed out if they come undone. Can get burnt real good on a hot water machine also. Napa or other auto stores sometimes have the equipment as they deal with high pressure hosing for hydrolic applications..think up to like 10k pressure or there abouts.

"fences are being stained with western cedarwtw. will I still get 200sq.ft per/gal, or will I need to lay it on more like 150sq.ft, per/gal." Depends on type of wood or how dry or new it is and then method of spray.(how much loss).Order of spray equipment efficiency would go something like such; true air atomized HVLP (90 something % efficient), then shurflow low flow type hvlp(bucketster), then shurflow high flow/pressure hvlp(dual pumping), then airless sprayer (80 something %), then paint padding/rolling. Over all the last project I used it on I averaged 160 with the dual pumping and no thinning. Is extremely fast method of applying stain and but tips have to be in good shape and you have to be quik and efficient with the hands. I like both true hvlp and the shurflow/bucketster method.. You should for sure get 200 or better with newer wood and efficient application methods though...just my humble opinion.. :) One coat western cedar on cedar picket with dual pump flojets at about 180 sq. ft. gal. coverage:

Epoxy?...cleaning epoxy flooring doesn't need hardly any pressure as it is a smooth top film. If it is dirty greased then you just need a little chemical and a tad bit of heat otherwise you can surely ruin it. If it is dirty greased that is penetrated then you and customer in a world of hurt already as it is failed and likelky chipping?....Almost have to assume your actually wanting to rip it off, if that case then walk away. You could use a fresh turbo nozzle with the 0 degree orifice to do some damage though if your inclined.. :) Personally I grab the autoscrubber for epoxy flooring.

Yea that and anything else downstream will sap yer power. I got rid of one of them dual tip roll over valves and I gained heaps.

BEHR- semi transparent acrylic stain ?...sounds cool. Have only tried their masonry silicone stuff to pretty good success. Blue bottle..

No darkening then?,that good to hear..got us any more pics? If you want gloss then you can go with something like Glaze n seal 2000 (laqcuer).

Well apparently you have dual threads and already got 2800k at wand and 4k pressure at the unloader...not sure why you say above that you only got 1300...so but anyways, you got wrong tips and/or unloader...good luck there.. http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/residential-pressure-washing/11218-raising-pressure.html

Unplug each spark plug wire with protected plyers while running under load..should hear a difference with each. Hook up a direct water supply off tap...could have blockage. Then do Alan's 'pump head' check. Maybe take each check valve out and tap them in and out to see how they respond and that they seat. Look at each O ring to see if torn..they are real thin.

What you aint never read the back of 3m car spay wax?.. carnueba melted in yup you guessed it... 2-butoxy.. lol..let's make some. Suppose some diluted behr silicone masonry products could work also..hehe

Maybe treat it as if it a car....get rid of oxidation and then wax..