MMI Enterprises

Chaz, Think Les made clear later on in that thread how it is not a situation of never doing butyl into oxidizer but that danger can happen if done in carefree attitude with no understanding of what your doing. Reactions happen which make heat. His first post does say So from what he says it is not the butyl aspect but the acetate aspect to watch for... Look what Russell says way back about his booster which is butyl: ..note the c6h14o2 here : Butyl Cellosolve (same chemstore link) ...is chem in much of our over the counter cleaners like Castrol's purple power,formula 409, etc, and is why they are called butyl based: 2-Butoxyethanol - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia , for differences between butoxy and acetate look here: 2-BUTOXYETHANOL (BUTYL CELLOSOLVE) 2-BUTOXYETHYL ACETATE (BUTYL CELLOSOLVE ACETATE)

Chaz, Think Les made clear later on in that thread how it is not a situation of never doing butyl into oxidizer but that danger can happen if done in carefree attitude with no understanding of what your doing. Reactions happen which make heat. Look what Russell says way back about his booster: ..note the c6h14o2 here: Butyl Cellosolve ...is chem in much of our over the counter cleaners like Castrol's purple power,formula 409, etc, and is why they are called butyl based: 2-Butoxyethanol - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia 2-Ethoxyethanol - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia ..but hey most that stuff has filler and will foam to high heaven if you put a half gal. in a fiver. Probably lots of carbonate and who knows what else in them. I work for some Shell chem distributors so maybe they got me the 2-ethoxy. Should just make my own floor stripper with it as well at this point.

No on the testimonial link Ron..... thinks I like the one I mentioned..lol.. Chemical Discussion - For Contractors Only - Pressure Washing Institute

Les offers some info steering folks towards safety here: BUTYL & SODIUM HYPOCHLORITE - Pressure Washing Institute ...in other words be careful how much booster or what ya put it in. I've never had plans to stick it in my regular percarb mix for instance..

yup...nothing but hd for you hu ken?..i feel ya and where yer comin from..:)

Ron, thanx but the link to your search comes up notta..and where do you mean at bottom of board?..You refering to the 'chemical discussion-contractor only' drop down menu? I want info handy without wading through heaps of stuff and I would also like some your best recipe listings for house washes and the like. I compile for my own use and someday I may stick them up on one of these boards...

Ken, Think he may experience a tad heartache where the sunny areas run in under the roof or just cause it is a lot of wood?.... My preference would in no way include the chance of having to defelt that thing so I would stick with mild stuff or well diluted stronger stuff. But hey this one really looks fun to me. I want to drive over and help.. I would use a real short angled wash wand and then double stain coat with hand hvlp.. All that inside wood work looks like a PITA otherwise to me with lots of leakage and strained muscles... :)

That's my point brother!! that amount of time almost = dwell, clean, and stain....haha...j/k :)

In rereading this...all the lugging around and proportioning is so unattractive to me. BTW, what exactly is the main ingredients in the citraclean?..OJ?..might get thirsty whilest on the job.. :)

yEA is a good idea to employee proof it. You never know when you might get a burner fire.. Not normal thing to happen but it does. My unit has the verticle boiler and so it is really close to the top...so close that I can barely fit it in trailer or get an angled piece of vent up in there. Turns out it is not needed in my case as long as I have the vent hole above. My trailer is all steel though.. :)

oooowe..this one is exciting Matt... can hardly wait for the after shots!!

How about this one.. this guy seems a perfectionist... [YT]485_GaMKJ7o&NR[/YT] YouTube - Professional Home & Deck Restoration Although I must assume all these folks are using correct tips I question what seems to be left out in the way of letting chemicals do the work. Maybe they just not showing that part..I don't know..

Pricing for general janitorial work can vary heaps depending on size, location, and schedule. Rule of thumb past decade or so for big business was about $12 per hour or 5 cents per month on the larger daily serviced type locations. On smaller it goes more towards your rates plus floor work/carpet work. Floor rates go from .10 to .30 stripping again dependant on size. I always took a healthy medium between hourly and sq. ft. in figuring. To do the hourly you should know how long each cubicle/desk area, restroom, break room, trash can dump or office section takes on average for complete cleaning and then it also doesn't hurt to break that down more into the vacuum chores, sweep/mop chores, and then the trash/dusting chores. It's actually the exact opposite order in performing them tasks BTW and you put different people on each. But anyways, after it is all said and done..you should be able to hire $8 help, pay for equipment upkeep, and still make 20-40%. Stripping, burnishing, carpets, restroom products are usually extra but if you really want to play with them big boys like Janiking or the 3rd party Johnson Control outfits you gotta throw in some freebies...talk about lowballers..some bigger places are like 4 cents a month last I heard regardless of the higher min. wages..Can you say undocumented labor?

David, that was indeed one of the best examples of commitment ever lived out on one of these boards.. Thanx!!

read the top of the earlier link I gave Glycol ethers - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia cleck cellosolve link to get here 2-Ethoxyethanol - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia standard stuff Ethylene glycol - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia brown and white sugar as Ken says. maybe one is stronger, maybe one boosts and one not.....too complex fer me..

seriousley feel yer pain ken..lol.. I just know that you can get any number of products/chemicals from the raw chemical before it almost similar to mineral oil coming from kerosene. If your poisoned from Ethylene Glycol,the wikipedia mentions giving alcohol to the person cause it attaches to the glycol molecules rendering them harmless. It also mentions how inside the body you end up with oxalic acid from the glycol....funny hu? Now the news of the day on poisoning is all abou them thousands of Chinese food manufactures doing their food up with dangerous stuff right?,. so scroll down to bottom of this glycol varience to see the poisonings over the years, June 2007 is already listed concerning Chinese Colgate toothpaste. Makes ya wonder don't it!! Diethylene glycol - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

..makes you want to go to kragen/chucker don't it Chaz??.. :)

That synergist word is along right lines I think ken but again it could be possable that the term is misused or misapplied. It should mean that they work together to boost or react more. Would either glycol boost?. I can't say..my memory is truly shot..Again I turn to soaking in factor as I know that is very key. My floor stuff uses the mea and I assume it is mainly for buffering and soak factor and may not be the synergistic activation producing element...so I would ask what is the 2-butoxy element?. I have to assume it is the activator and is the same as ethylene glycol. Only three ingredients in what I am refering to.. In yours Ken you may be doubling up without need. Maybe the mea is a cheaper solution doing same..Don't know..

Ones toxic and the other less toxic apparently. Chaz, Second paragraph I mean to say that manufactures mix things to be stable.. Ken, I think it is partially true what you heard from Russell in that I think various makeups of the glycols will not produce the kick we're after but with that said I do not know that standard ethylene glycol fits that bill. There is some confusion that I can't clear up in trying to address kicking off/catylizing the stripper element cause I am not a chemist. What I do know is that we can easily be confused between soak in factor versus reactive factor when adding chems together..The mea I mentioned would be example of giving soak in factor. We need Russell or Philip..LOL Ken, what is the purpose in having both the safer stuff and then the butyl in yer mix? Like are you under impression one does something the other does not or do you think the butyl is safe or different than standard glycol?

Butyl Cellosolve note the confusing synonyms...again this be one of the few in my floor stripper..am assuming it be the standard toxic antifreeze or similar. ps. -Interesting quote from Wikipedia- "Ethylene glycol has seen some use as a rot and fungal treatment for wood, both as a preventative and a treatment after the fact. It has been used in a few cases to treat partially rotted wooden objects to be displayed in museums. It is one of only a few treatments that are successful in dealing with rot in wooden boats, and is relatively cheap." Now if I track down the exact name of what's in my stripper it is number nine down on the following list of glycol ethers in parenthesis (2-butoxy----) Glycol ethers - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia but of course the warehouse that produces the stripper is full of standard 55gal drums labeled ethylene glycol. So it has three ingredients: Potassium hydroxide, monoethanolamine (mea), and the glycol kicker. The mea is a buffer if not mistaken and when they mix it all together the potash is the heat, and the other two kick it off and allow it to soak in and emulisfy the gunk. This stripper although meant for other use than wood is the second most hottest I ever come across in 20 years on floor work. It is equivelent or better then anything in the general retail market/Johnson type acrylic strippers. The best stripper beyond that I ever found besides going to the obvious paint strippers (meth chloride type gels) is made by a company called Surtec out of Tracy, Ca. Not sure what additives they got in it but it was only solution that made it through a 20 coats plus concrete job one time for me. Did take double strip in parts... we tested about a half dozen products on that job prior to going to my old standby in Surtec..lol..but realize these I speak of are premixed and we can make our stuff hotter... within reason of course.

What the dreaded "A" word Ken?..acrylic?,,varathane, varnsih?.... my worst fears are the dreaded "p" word polyurethane but since this is red it likely get an "A" rating.. like your thinking..:)

"What do ya'll think bout this one!" ummm. I can'tsee no damages through all that bay area art work...haha. gotta luv a humble mind .. :) ps. you may need boosted hd80 type product on them verticles..did you test strip on it's most intact spot like on a northern side of board?

I would hope there wouldn't be any issues.. Other then recoat on it's self I also wonder how it works over WTW and whether it'll go on through. Reason being is that I know it looks darn deep and rich when RS is applied over the smelly Penofin. (Penofin does happen to show me some film forming on some boards at times)

Thanx Chuck..that is a smart addition to the safety section... I suffered a tad bit of the exhaustion version a few week back from the lack of acclamation mentioned and did not feel so well.

Guees it would be funner having b-days every month.. :) HAPPY BELATED!!