MMI Enterprises

The only orange pic I ever really seen on here was a couple big Omax deck done in cedar and I am sure the pic was a tad over saturated..

Here is link to Beth's brown sugar thread I believe: http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/scrap-book/1784-sample-photos-wood-tux-brown-sugar-crystal.html The color as pictured there and on the chart show as tinge of green ick to me..

In the end ya got to give them what they want..Sounds and looks good to me Ken. I wrote down 50/50 though in my color sample book on that one.. Without blowing up the attachements don't it seem closer to the western cedar sample right next to it Ken? Thats photography for ya or maybe it my screen..

Are they all RS users?. Is this stuff black as usual stuff or is it the more yellowish round spores we get on drives out here in the west? Show us some more pics Ken...maybe think about sending sample to a lab or university for testing. "I don't know of any strain of mold that can withstand an assualt with 5-6% sodium hypochlorite" ... I've got drives on my street with a black strain that covers real well and then the yellow round ones are mixed in and usually about a quarter in size by time people try to get rid of. Both withstand changing color with 4% dwelling 10 minutes or more and don't come off till hot high pressured at 3k psi.The yellow for sure lasts through the bleach as I have at times had to leave some for a few days when I ran out of heat. Maybe too hard to see the black in the first picture but if you look close you can tell each drive right at the garage door are totally black: driveway mold driveway mold closer ..just wonderin if it same stuff.. :)

Below is one from either Rick or Ken of 50/50 brown sugar and mineral spirits. Is already on here somewheres else too..looks more like weakened western cedar to me though compared to the sample pic.

Surely there will be lots of info forthcoming concerning the ability of professional contractors being able to remove the old stain from the spindles. Am sure also that you'll find such a suitable contractor right here on TGS.... My brief imput on your project is that wood only needs to be below a certain moisture content before your able to apply most oil based products and it is somewhat frowned on these days to let wood 'weather'. Wood begins to exhibit dimensional changes from day one of exterior installation so the quiker it is protected the better. There is no sound reason to allow damage to wood. The original contractor may have well served you fine considering that the wood will take stain better the second or third time around. Now is the time to do it right with a good penetrating type stain is my feeling.

The darker the board the more the old school tannin moving around in it. Since it moves around within the wood and comes come up from even water your best bet is a lite oxalic spray after most of it has leached up and dried after the main cleaning and neutralizing phaze. You Eastern folk come out this way you can see whole forests and state parks full of black tannin ..heck we got a stump at Calvaras Big Trees with a stump the size of these decks. They never stain it and thousands of people trapse around on it every year..It'll never give up the ghost in our lifetime. It something like 20' diameter of old school. :)

Can you say boosted S/H ? http://www.wolman.com/pdf/datasheets/P_27_117.pdf Should be powerful but as Beth is getting at...is it cost effective compared to other availables? Whatever the case, Wolman has earned it's place in the market and the eyes of the consumer..they invented pressure treated wood you know..(wolmanized)... I'm Wolman Wood Care Certified Contractor and I think they do good work...(psst. most every woodie here is.lol).. :)

Sounds like that deck wants to be an auto-linseed boiler....pardon the pun..carry on..I'll be quiet now.. :) Here's current area temps for what it's worth:

What's HS? :corn:

What's it sit on a volcano or some such thing? :)

Ah I see.. didn't see it was vinyl til after I asked mainly about staining. You talkin about a hand brush or really a pad? I use the cardboard with packing tape along the straight edge and slide along as I walk to cut in. I need to make some "L"'s though to get where fences attach to houses.

Smart man as usual... :) What ya use to protect house and do ya do that just during staining?.. plastic,cardboard,etc...?

That is a cool design of a deck and a nice color ya got going on there Rick!! Were you able to not get muddy doing near them planters?

ahh.. what's 3k?...a job or two for ya?.. you'll enjoy life more away from the slimey courts and their representatives...

Fine run down Ron!! ..now don't anyone break out the lighters and hairspray cans .. :)

You saying you didn't use a lacquer? Can you be more specific what you used as Xylene is a reducer/solvent... Whats the solid?

Gel cells in starting battery format have been a disappointment for me in industrial equipment applications. They cost too much generally and lasted me no longer. They must be charged slower and at lower voltage to not be damaged. But that was in starting battery format so.. The newer/better alternative for light deep cycles is AGM (glass matt) batteries. In regular flooded acid batteries the absolute best deep cycles are Surrette/Rolls, Crown, and then Trojan period. The Trojan is really your best choice between quality, price, durability, and weight for most applications commercially as the Rolls is more for long term power (15-20 years) storage like in huge arrays of solar alternative energy.Thing to note though is they weigh heaps and that is key. The plate abuse from the lead conversion back and forth beween charged and discharged is what wears batteries out. Before long lighter cheap batteries loose their materials and it falls to the bottom... The heavier the battery the longer it usually last as the plates are thicker. If ya can't afford quality of a Trojan 12 volt then just get a Sears deep cycle. They last 2 to 3 year in daily use. Also, if you want your batteries to last their longest you do three things...Charge them immedietely after use, use an auto charger that does not over charge in regular use(loose the acid), and then once in a while every month or so you equalize the stratified electrolytes between the cells by bubbling/over voltage charging them for a half day...(10% higher voltage)..my disertation for the day.. :)

The problem is indicative of all your pines which is your PT. Also indicative of the alive part of the tree, the sapwood rather than the heartwood. Perhaps you'll have lesser amounts or longer periods between the leaching if you soak and clean the offending boards with turpentine. That is your remover for sap/pitch. Perhaps it will help the boards to be unclogged so to speak and allow it to come out evenly and unnoticed. Maybe they clogged like a big old zit from past coatings....just two cents.. :)

Is it thicker as if it got blown more or thinner as if it got reduced more or less resin?

Yes..whenever stain comes over the summit into Cali. they go through changes at the cellular level to where they turn into orange colored fake tanning oils...think it something to do with wanting to get with all the girlies and fitting in.. :island::beerchug::martini:

umm. when you water them down your trying to rely on water to clean some the product away as if water is a suitable solvent for oil or oil based solvents. Part of the product as well as any mineral spirits used for cleanup of brushes, etc, are still there to evaporate out especially if your not using degreaser. Just rinse tarps if ya like before folding them and either throw rags in can if not too bad or rinse them in spirits and wring them out before placing in can. The goal is only to remove pigments and resins from them to reuse. You will be able to reuse as soon as they dry of the spirits. Take the can out of rig and place away from buildings with lid off to get things to dry.

As I meant to say, use an extra small metal trash can...clean the items when ya get a chance and let them evaporate out.

Got RS sprayer?

sounds about same packaging methods with plastic and all that that other "p" fella Peirce does with the RS.....Must be almost as much work as doing these "p"'s