MMI Enterprises

Ken, who says WT don't penetrate?.. Maybe my best novice advice to Mike can be that if not over-applied WT is supposedly recoat friendly same as an RS type product cause it not likely to show an unsightly partially removed film like junk product might... It barely shows a film with one coat as most recommend using and what with normal wear and the easy strip characteristics people speak of, it seems a good choice for down the road.

As you know I Hardly could be considered a scientist here Ken as my math skills and memory stink..yer just pulling leg as I did you smarty pants..haha.. :) ..surely there be no need to educate true woodies here on this forum but for the unknowing and just in case: "Where is there a film in either of the products you mentioned?" ...somewhat more on top than the other one ,lol, one has resin and the other not. In WTW's case the resin is apparently boiled/modified/curing natural oils rather then synthetic urethanes or silicones which could be used in some exterior products. Russell said it don't so... You put it well with "curing penetrating sealer vs non-drying oil" but to be clear not all curing sealers are to everyones liking.

yes..thanx... is smart for planning..good job on that!!

So in exactly 1 month since another deck pricing thread Ken went up $.05 in materials.. haha.. j/k and pullin yer leg.. :)

I have more pics of WTW then RS. It just depends on if you want a film or not. Is not a bad thing persay to have a film or to not have a film. Is personal choice. The difference between some film formers though is that the film don't come off easily... decisions decisions..

That along with what Russle said pretty much says it..is same reasoning why I must keep interior flooring neutral before acrylic coating..

The $.35 materials sometimes is $.30 written on these forums so obviously it varies depending on price paid and usage tendancies..

Sounds like a situation to learn from thats fer sure. I don't know how similar house siding is to vinyl flooring but Goof off products do etch into vinyl and butyl based strippers will warp. They got away from that by changing stripper mixes and/or vinyl makeup for years now. Since he has to not make matters worse yet still has to remove stains he has to use some type stripper blotted on real carefully only where the stains are. Potassium hydroxide is main stuff for vinyl flooring..personally I would lightly try Mr.Clean's Magic Eraser.

uh hu.. on the last option that is...stong enough that it works fast but weak enough to not eat the grout.

I use muriatic for a very short time when I do it. How does one make it inhibited..put some undies on it? lol...j/k :) Oh also.... mine is stainless if that matters any.. .edit-- .seems there all sorts of options involving vinegar, citric acid, or safe antifreeze: Hydrochloric acid acidizing composition and method - US Patent 5441929

When it wet can you scrape it with a fingernail and it seem like a peach? Boost the oxalic and burn the heck out of it or sand it be best for a 20 year untouched thing. If it just black stain then seems ya need to strengthen the wood bleach.

In case the inside of coil tubing is being refered to..... How often is subjective to amount of use. Unhook a line and see if there is any buildup on the inside of tubing. Might want to clean it with coil cleaner if it gets thicker then say a thin finger nail or if there is noticable flow differenece or noticable heating difference. Personally I just hook a flojet up as a loop and cycle about a 20% mixture of hydrochloric through for but a minute or two.Then I change the fluid out and do it again until it comes out clean. I follow up with a fresh water flush before hooking lines back up...

About same zact amount that my Peno tests did. Reason for bidding practices hovering around 100 sq.ft per gal is likely due to allowing for two coat with other products or some hecka major overspray.. :)

Small hardware like ace/truevalue may import it into your area from a chem supplier.

Sierra Chemical 5/16/2007 5 gal. fiver - $3.42 per gal. - $7.50 deposit 4 gal. case -$3.36 - $5 deposit 53 gal drum- $2.20 per gal. - $40 deposit

How about a review hijack..... :) Got my Honey sample yesterday.... tried it, and must say it sure is nice in many ways. Unlike some say, it is thinner compared to some others I been trying. It penetrates decent and seems to have high amount of pigment. Sits on surface abit more then some and but looks very even and highly pigmented. Very similar to Penofin or Cabbot Aussie on how it flows and spreads but doesn't stink near as bad as Penofin. The Aussie is thinner and I don't think it is geared to last as long. This WTW smells more like a nice interior paint to me. It shows the grain off on both rough or smooth redwood without over darkening it and one coat is way plenty on cedar. I won't mention how the overall look compares to another stain common on this board cause I am almost embarrssed for it at this point. But speaking about tips..I am all ears and wonder about thinning for lighter color or cross mixing colors...and then interested how it works for people using hvlp..

Thanx Russell.. sample came..

Back to topic... To summize I see that it took awhile but it became apparent that paraffinics come by way of oil kerosene on into mineral oil which does not have to have parafin (wax) byproduct included. As RS website FAQ explains some products use the wax to bead water but that it is unnecessary and it evaporates away on first hot sun lit day anyway. The real barrier to element traffic into the wood is the oil and or binders/resins. Russell, In knowing that alkyd's are modified/changed condition of normally non-drying type oils into drying ones (boiled linseed) to create a film element to keep out the elements I get interested in the binder=resin discussion posed by Rick and how it applies in waterbased alkyds. At some point resins/binders have to be leaned towards emulsion to become supposed waterbased clean up and so I ask what can you tell us about the use of synthetic (hydrocarbon) resins in exterior waterbased stains? Does WTW contain urethane and how common is it in the market in other brands? From what I understand there are modified oil alkyds and there are modified oil based/water based alkyds and there can be much confusion between products. For instance can WTW be pinned into such designation much like Olympic Maximum 5 year deck,fence,siding stain(brown label/not green waterproofer) or the Cabot SPF24 can be designated into such a class?

Keith, I been doing up samples on new dog eared cedar & redwood fence boards. One thing for sure is that the oil type products like RS on Redwood don't always show huge differences between hence like others seem to say you may only need a couple few colors...especially on old wood... What I did for my samples was I sanded one side smooth that way with any color I have a total of 4 different looks that can be seen on two boards. I spaced the colors every 3" and am upto over a dozen now (minus Woodtux..Honey sample hasn't showed up yet). Labels don't stick so I staple them to side of boards. Hijack...Anybody know of a paraffinic that gives a lite look like that of the alkyds on older wood?

Hey guys and gals...just make sure not to get the filter for oxygen... :lgbonk: :lol:

Been doing plenty of testing these past few weeks with various oil and waterbased stains through hvlp, flojet, and pumpup spraying methods. Was real eager to try out the 5 year semi transparent Olympic Maximum (brown label) which is an oil/waterbase modified alkyd (emulsion) for decks,fences, siding. Is not what some are trying in the 3 year Waterproofing Sealant product they also offer. First I chemically low pressure cleaned and brightened part of my fence last evening and then this morning shot the Omax through the flojet. Tried a 25020 and then a 25055 and had dismal results at trying to atomize the product with either. It showered out totally to my disliking and I ended up backbrushing and wetting fence to try and even out. Haha... I must say I like hvlp spraying by far and am better suited to that and so I can't blaim Omax really. I feel if I would have achieved an actual spray that the time messing around would have been minimized. When it goes on it looks like a solid which made me really want to get a real even coat. Found it impossable with what I was using. Is no wonder why HO's trying it with a pumpup could get blotchy results. Cleanup was a pure PITA... soap and water cleanup yea right!!. Got to get it real fast if you want clean up like standard waterbased products is my feeling.. What a sticky mess. Much rather cleanup oil with spirits then this stuff. Results stink but I include pics for your pleasure just the same :) This product needs two coats and/or a good spray while applying is my feeling.. Do like the color though.... Now I really want to hear if anyone has had good results of putting this waterbase product through a wand/pump setup as Shane uses. Diluting it down with water by 50% or more may work since it did start to spray better while flushing my hose line and wand... Results of one watered down backbrushed coat stink but I include pics for your pleasure and to see what the natural cedar color looks like:

Ken ..I assume you mean the Aussie..

Larry, You mean the Woodrich Timber Oil? Wish I knew where to get local.. Cabots Aussie Timber Oil seems nice too. Is marketed as a hard wood oil. The one I tried was a natural clear color... looked great on new redwood. I imagine it only a 1-2 year product like anything else though.

He's pulling yer leg a bit... by maybe as much as 1k houses!! I can see a single rig making it to 4-6 jobs five days a week for an hour or two per job but that is max...

I had same setup until I changed some parts such as the vac type heater switch. Had so many problems with it firing that I went to a much more reliable flow based switch. But anyways the vac type come with a restrictor inside a hose barb right there where everyone says about checking your filter. Check that also for a clog and check your hose clamps..can't be sucking air..