MMI Enterprises

Shane, + .5 seems fair based on your actual measure method but do you add a Pita factor at some point. Almost have to assume that is what Ken is already including... bueler, bueler..where is Ken?. probly staining or some such..

Wow..big difference between you two....Does that 2.5 factor include the PITA factor for them being raised decks? You by chance got that powerpoint for me Ken?

Is not really all that difficult just takes some time and pre-thought. The belt length is unimportant other then picking one that fits. Pulley sizes determine the speed of pump rotation and even that has some leeway by adjusting the motors rpm. Gotta have a premade base that includes tensioner then you just mock it up before drilling. If you got a generator off the other side a DIY generator tensioner can be fashioned if you have welder, some nuts and bolts, and ability to drill the slotted holes to allow the tension adjustments. My machine has 3 belts and I reworked it from its original stationary pallet sized Brigs setup into a portable half pallet sized Honda setup. Bolt holes for engines were all different so it required a mock up.

Don't kid yerselves too much...ACCOUNTS AND ROUTES CONTRACTED OR NOT ARE ALWAYS WORTH MONEY.. A business up and running that can show gross receipts with proper profit & loss info and an active ongoing schedule is going to be worth at least it's depreciated asset value plus some factor of it's monthly gross receipts. (3 to 6 is common). The gross receipts are akin to an asset and can be associated directly to sellable accounts or routes. Yes name value due to marketing and numbers served is of course at some level an intangeable asset worth hard money and but is likely in direct correlation to the size of the business and it's sales force. To say that a business without much size has no name value would not be true. It's customers and it's potential customers of its service area place a name value to it. Profit is profit and in the end when someone is buying a business the end numbers is what matters as to whether it is profitable to buy. The name value of aka smaller company correspondingly gets smaller as the area served, receipts, sales force , etc. gets smaller compared to the bigger companies. I bet it real easy for some relatively small service related corporations to confuse or forget their offices, warehouses, and equipment as equaling location location location where as small service related business knows full well that location location location is really there service area. They bring it to the customers same as the big boys do. No buyer but a dumb one would look at the numbers of one and not the other. Material participating type buyers are shoe string if not more frugal and more discriminitive with the numbers basedon the risks involved where as fat cats that are well versed in letting others make them money are more likely to opt for the all in place up and running on its own type businesses when they buy. There surely are more of such folk than the other and them type folk are simply investors and btw sometimes considered gamblers. So my view goes that many of our small businesses, although smaller scale, are worth more comparativley when things such as profit margin or efficiency are considered along side bigger business. The bigger businesses are simply worth some speculative amount to investors.. :)

Know what man??.. that I just figured out myself my respressed fanstasy of why I wanna be a cabbana boy?.. lol.. p.s.- link please :)

Hear ya there Mike... been instinctively not falling into traps of justifying prices to customers in general. At some point the two wrongs don't make a right premise of not passing increases on to customer is going to be out the window though. Every year for at least the last few years we have been getting more and more institutionalized to the higher prices to the point of most folk not even batting an eye at the $3+ prices. Likely fair to say the increased amounts are pretty much here to stay don't ya think? The increased portion of the price per gal. surley is a legit expense that my out turned pockets can attest to and should be figured in to what we charge. I can't much call the increases a fad that disappears the same as it always used to due to less traveling, or off season, etc. . It used to be the prices went up between memorial day and labor day then tapered off. It's all screwy now though in that it stays higher longer and goes up earlier. Hardly can't call the majority of the time the prices as being lower outside the summer months.. Is all part of being institutionalized by the Man.. :)

OMG!..So check it out. Was considering shirt colors to do company logos on today and I says to ma lady I'll look more attractive and clean like a pool boy if I go with the bright baby blue...must be some long lost repressed fantasy I got based around the pool scene in that movie.. Now I wonder if blue will go with the brunettes red bikini.. :)

True true...my business is only worth about 900k shy of 1 meeeeeeeeilion Rupi then.. :)

Too high price for the process talked about. If it were acid staining and then acrylic top coated and then the sq. footage was small enough size to be able to command premium dollar then perhaps $1.50-$2.00. Acid staining with epoxy top coat or solid epoxy coatings then yes you can get them higher dollars (and some) no matter the size. Then you have your concrete grinding and polishing with diamond edged machinery that can demand $4-$15 per sq. ft. depending on many factors like whether it large commercial or small residential, or only partially smoothed and then stained and top coated, etc, etc....refer to my current avitar for example of what would be a $3+ type job on interior space.. Although I'de think you might get by with 10 fivers or less with the Sherwin stuff you might want to plan a few more. Since it is just a waterbase stain and seal all in one you could make good bank even at $.30 plus cleaning.

Ok I call dibs on turning that into an advertising hook!!! :)

yea... say "my kids got to eat too ya know..".. .. as in perhaps they don't feed your daughter when she visits..haha j/k :)

No they don't get wet.. you don't spray your face do ya?..haha Think most just wear when applying caustic chems or stains and not while rinsing.. If you buy a good one with filters on each side of face they'll include paperwork that'll tell you which filters for which kind of vapors. I suspect it could be bad to just wear anything when working around certain things cause for all you know the harmful stuff still gets through. For paints and stains Harbor Freight has a cheap but decent double filter for $21. The face material is a bit more plastic feeling then some better ones you'll find at around the $40 level elsewhere. (may bug you when you swet compared to the softer rubber ones).. They don't all use industry standard filters neither. Am sure a place like Sherwin could set you up proper.

I bet that deck above would satisfy many folks expectations on fade. I really don't expect to see anything better after 2 years. Maybe my monitor is no good or I got sandman still in my eyes...almost looks like a first coat of a two coat type product? Ok that is exagerating...lol Behr's brochure planely shows on each page (with a little logo) how long each product can "last up to". It gives both an amount for verticles and then the horizontals. I think the verbage used is not an actual warranty persay. The 10 yr. is for the solid House and Fence Stain (orange label). The Deck Plus (semi) shown above is 3 yr. decks/ 5 yr. fence and siding and even their own picture is extremely blotchy looking for a professional sales photo. I would like to know if any of their products are removal friendly, lasts as marketed without early fading, and mainly which are user friendly to apply without lap marks.. Hence which might be similar to other brands feeder type parafinnic oils if any. The Premium Clear Weatherproofing wood sealer & finish says silicone enhanced and so that wouldn't fit the bill. (got to underline to tel the difference between them..geez!) Anybody have experience with these: Clear Waterproofing Wood finish- 2 yr./4 yr.(water cleanup so must be a modified alkyd), Liquid Rawhide (semi solid) -4 yr./7 yr., or the Water Proofing wood protector- (1yr/2yr) If these don't lap mark and but come off easily they may fit somebodies idea of a maintenance program..just a thought..2 of them are applicable in damp conditions. The Rawhide actually sounds good to me.. p.s... although I like their huge color chart as a reference, I doubt anyone actually ever ends up with what they expected unless a pro does some fancy testing and mixing. They should go ahead and disclaim exactly that in a much larger type than the disclaimer they currently got down bottom of the chart. It is really bothersome to me that the big box stores push the idea that it is so easy like "Here this is the color you won't, have fun" !!

Coulda cleaned part of it instead of gabbin here at TGS.....HAHA.J/K Never turn down good paying work..Sounds like you need more middle men management to worry about these headaches. That way when they screw up you can yell at them for loosing the important clients instead of yerself.. :)

lol....or nod to the greenbacks on the dresser?

Other than the almighty, about only thing more important than a mans pride, character, and integrity is feeding and caring for the faces... Thank God you came to TGS before attempting that job!! I truly admire your commitment and resolutions on this job. :)

It's late and Jarrod's gone silly...haha... didn't mean a respirator, was asking about your spray equipment.. :)

Well I been wondering if the Preservawood is any good.. seems to be a parafinnic feeding type oil. If you have Ace hardware up there you might want to try the red label Penofin in cedar or redwood.. You have to decide if you want to feed the wood with something you can easily maintain and refeed or clog it up with stuff that will be harder to strip and maintain. No Flood or Behr for me thanx! p.s.- speaking of Lowes.. they got Olympic Max which some like but it isa clogger type far as I can tell.

Spray penetrating oil in where the key is let it soak over night...that'll go a long way towards breaking it free. Could also take a propane torch to it to heat it up. In some cases of breaking things free you can suspend a pulley (or pump) between to rods with weight of motor hanging below and then hit shaft with hammer if you have a nut or bushing around tip to where you can not mushroom the shaft. In your case it sounds like you may be able to do this if motor is not mounted to anything. The weight of the motor will go a long way towards breaking it free. With this method you must take great pains in protecting shaft and engine when it falls to the ground. Doesn't sound like you need the motor though so.. Another way of breaking things free is to use the power of the starter motor. You secure the pulley, nut, pump, what have you with vice grips, pipe wrench, etc. and you bump the starter key. Hopefully then the shaft key is soft enough and it breaks so the bushing or flange turns on shaft. From there they usually go ahead and come off..

Well yea if there is holes in some part or flange that is strong enough you can do such with long bolts and nuts with proper configuring. There has never been anything I haven't been able to get apart mechanically. Sometimes things break though. If you can't take it to a shop then maybe you can take a few pics at different angles and we can try to come up with a plan. I don't know specifics of how them direct drive are hooked in but imagine that there might be more then just the outter bolts involved? Does the keyed shaft just stick through the seals and bearings and your able to view the shaft turning or what?

Well if it were a pulley I would say use a proper puller. What ever ya do or whatever the configuration don't go hitting on the shaft with a hammer. ..You mushroom and ruin it and then it will be grinder and/or welder and grinder time..

Jarrod, So no hvlp for you?..looks and sounds like everyone ends up using pad and airless.

rotflmao :) .. I do hope it worked out in some form

Russell, My email was sent...Please can you have your shipping dept. fold up some hard copies of that chart and throw them in with my sample bottle?

Penofin is pretty darn stinky too..how about the WTW ?