MMI Enterprises

Now that's funny and that's all I am gonna say about that.. lmao

This thread gets my goat as it hits way too close to home a few times.. Would like some expert advice for Sarowe as well as myself on the following 3 ideas. Wondering if any of them can be discounted or validated as playing a part: Is there something about a flow situation versus a no flow situation through a pump that can change it's ability to pressurize or not? This packing thing and what Paul says has me wondering... How about the unloader.. Can and does only the flow type unloader gone bad or misadjusted present itself like problem in this thread? (think I changed out my cat flow type to a pressure type when if wouldn't let me up under flow) A pump turning with proper rpm and horsepower that makes pressure while static one moment then doesn't the next under flow surely must be a situation of more going out via too big a orifice (nozzle,leak) than getting in (starvation)?

First the ceramic heat insulation (?) was removed long time ago. Secondly a burner bolt came loose for a short time making blower fire off to to the side a tad making the small crack. Thirdly a burner bolt broke resulting in blow torching the boiler front. Some questions: The white deposits are likely fuel deposits right? Would you just weld on a patch sheet of metal since this part is regular steel? Coil is stainless though isn't it? (shop guy that has never seen it tells me "no way it would be too expensive") Where do I get and how much should the insulation run? (shop guy said $6 a sq ft. x about 11 ft.) I assume it is special fireproof insulation rather than fiberglass.. But is anyone wrapping between main boiler and the outer skin cover for more protection to equipment or keep more heat in?

Well I am going to supply the ceramic blanket material to who ever here wants to buy since I got a fairly good pricing.. Now taking orders.. :) http://forums.thegrimescene.com/showthread.php?t=7906

The stainless already was somewhat discolored when I got hold of it. Now that I been thinkin about it I can't recall seeing one with a donut up top at all. Was always a clear view down into coil. It appears mine has both some wet ceramic (hard) and some soft ceramic in there with the soft being up top around coil and down bottom for donut.

Yes Paul it will be done right and safe. I got pricing today for 1" x 24" ceramic blanket material for inside at $2.50 sq. ft.. Counting a donut for both top and bottom I need 8' or $40 worth...Bottom donut and burner head tube is likely fine so I will have left over maybe for gas tank sheilding.. ( lol, did I mention I turned this Mi-T-M pallet sized skid into a hotsy sized portable?) Actually the top doesn't get any insulation correct? Anyways, at them rates I might as well get 1/2" at $2.10 for the outer part if the r value is as good or better than fiberglass. Not sure on that.. I have seen a couple locals even wrap their outside skin with fiberglass for 3 layers but I aint doin that. Image does count for somethings..hehe

They also have a few brands of seal made to prevent stickage that ya can spray on or mop down over at the local HD... Cheapo Behr is one they got for such construction protection. After grouting such stuff can be stripped off or left for a fair to good seal for the business opening..

yea, but I failed to see what problem was and how ya fixed it.. Sarowe, Did this problem start all of a sudden? When I had similar problems all of a sudden it was not unloader or nozzle clogging or sizing or the like at all... One time I sucked in some saran wrap in my float tank. The sound pitch of the whole engine setup sorta changed due to starvation and there was hose chatter.. (don't ask..lol). The other time was very similar to that time in symptom but I lost more pressure (about 1/3 of system pressure) and there was no hose chatter. There was a change in sound pitch almost same akin to starvation and I had full pressure when not pulling trigger. Everything seemed smooth and fine but no pressure over 2200 pressure when pulling trigger... same as yer description-- Turned out thissecond time I was running on one engine cylinder with a broken connecting rod cap bolts. Engine sounded fine at idle or full rev but when I put it under load there was just no horsepower. It was like yes pump could build pressure on static situation to my 3k psi but trying to actually move water was another story.... You can check such by unplugging a spark plug to see if there is a change..(there should be a change even if ever so slight)...just a thought anyways if ya got a twin engine.. You should do what Alan said in that Grizzley thread about testing head pressure without hinderances like unloader, coil , or injectors right off the pump outlet if the above doesn't apply. You have to wire your gun trigger on at all times while engine is running to prevent things from blowing up though as that is what the unloader is for!...I wire the whole wand to side of trailer while doing this so I can concentrate on adjusting things.

Choosing the gpm of a unit has got to be akin to choosing engine size of a vehicle. Difference being that a 5 gpm machine would be min. for any decent size flat work so it be like yer min. 4 banger car engine. When a 4 banger is running good it goes up hills fine and can pass people but throw in the slightest wear, bad tuning, or more weight and ya will be struggling with it going slow and wanting more power. The 5gpm washer can do just about everything but does it slower especially when you put on more weight and have some wear..lol.....Go with a 6 or an 8 banger :) -Get at least a 6 gpm @3500 to not feel like me...When using a wand I constantly wonder how the heck these other guys can do a whole strip mall in the time it takes me to do one store front. I can actually see them getting good results with wider spray pattern farther away from surface. It's like they are just walking and flushing and I am standing and slowly brushing every sq. inch...

Took a couple hours of fabrication but I patched two spots and a few other things that were needing attention.. Still interested if people are wrapping this outer part with regular fiberglass or do we have to use special stuff same as the inside stuff?

Well upon closer inspection after peeling away some of that corroded metal it appears that the inner cone that directs the flame straight up is fine and would block a direct hit via blow torching to that hole. Deisel must have been squirting over rather than spraying and had fire off and on for longer time than I thought.. The coil itself is the type that is only in upper section and it turns out there is some insulation around it and some of the bottom too... Think I'll clean or change the fuel nozzle as well.

thanx Alan... seen it today at a shop.. Shop guy didnot know where to get the brush material but I will check with Fullerbrush like ya mentioned. Not sure how I will dual shell mine though ;(

Well the off loading the solution is covered but for future moving of heavy items: You mentioned you have a trailer?... If it is low enough with drop axle and you got a ramp you might want to invest in a pallet jack like you would see in a warehouse from maybe Harbor Freight or the like.. I use mine to move anything and everything I can't with a standard hand dolly including my 800 lb machine. All you do is lay some 4x4 under the object and let jack down and wheel it on out..

ahh.....Have a pic or a link by chance?.. Is it around edge only sorta like a bonnet pad driver for a carpet cleaning?...Regular scrub machine pad drivers or the nylogrit type scrub brushes cover the whole bottom of a traditional swing floor machine and but have open areas for water to get through during scrubbing so I assume that is not what yer refering to..

..in this case surely "walking" = "repeling".. :)

yea, I don't get it...Being this is an asphalt roof you don't want pressure anyways.. is that correct?..just strong chlorine and a tad soap right? Seems to me (roof novice) the need to get up there via walking or a lift is just for the show to make it look like ya earned yer fee.... good deal ... By the way, do any of you have a hard time walking away from doing the gutters or whole house out of pride?...By looking at that close up pic I'd find myself real itchy to just hit the whole thing..

A few things... Ron, Realize some these prejects on here are not always done with pressurewash equipment so pricing varies for that reason as well as for reasons of locale and competition level. I use autoscrubbers which have a lower overhead to run and more people offering such services. But hey..trust me I love to get $80-$100 per hr for scrubbing floors but it don't always at all work out that way. On inside work I usually have to be providing actual finish removal services to get to the .20-.30 per sqft. range. (translates into just about same $ an hour figures above for me). This mornings 4 hour job translated into $60 an hour my share but that was a special deal for my brothers janitorial company in order for him to score daily office cleaning contract. We did 20k sqft of 30k nasty warehouse space in 4 hours.. The thing about these kitchen areas for me is that I don't like the soak and wait time involved of flooding the floor either (is just about required with any method other than hot pressure) so am interested in hooking up a recovery vacuum to my sureface cleaner such as Alan runs... ....Alan, How often does the rubber have to be replaced on the surface cleaners edge. Getting such going on the homemade jobber I run may be too much a pain as you mention butit may be worth a shot.. Far as sanded grout versus urethane...contractors I see use Admix (probably urethane based) in there mortar/sanded grout mix these days so perhaps worrying about such is moot point now...least where I am at anyways. From where I stand with 20 years doing inside cleaning work of all types I got to call it shoddy workmanship from the get go that a place would have to regrout. If a regrouting is to take place the surface sure had better be degreased first and then acid etched or it will just fall out again.

Dave, You got any pics of such setups on the inside and outside as it would be setup?...Not exactly getting the leaf bag thing or how to apply this method with my sump.. ?

I have a little giant sump with a float.. anyone ever stick one into the bottom of a small drum and drill a few dozen holes around the bottom rim and bottom?. Seems to me the holes would act like debri filters. Place it in the v of a simple dam with a hand dolly after capping the drain and run the outline to either the sewer or onto land? Maybe sticking a tiny enclosed wetvac with wand into the top section with a manual drain **** going to sump inlet would work good for final clean up? Just thinking how to get every last drop when there hardly is any drops even.

Only commercial here. I use autoscrubbers and swing machine with nylo grit brush. Chemical choice can vary depending on situation... Purple Power or Sodium Hydroxide for grease situations... and CLR for when the grout is filled with hard as nails deposits and black gunk.....then hydrochloric when it is really bad like new construction. Mortar is a pain and that is the only solution.....worth upwards of $3 sq./ft. easily for such a job. The regular maintenance scrubs on biweekly schedule run about $40-$60 an hour.

What ended up being used here? Hope if it was permanent type epoxy or laquer that it was prepped with hydrochloric first then put in check with citric :)

Been doing vinyl,ceramic, brick, saltina, etc. for many years and what I find works for home situations where you have unstained/unsealed type grout that is not filled with grime just use citric acid in a spray bottle mixed as strong as the water will take.(somewheres aroud 1/3 powder to water). Spray it on and soak for minutes to hours and then do a quik scrub. Usually be like brand new. Will get brighter over a few days as well. Nothing safer than citric acid. On food establishments where the grime gets thick black and hard as a rock use CLR first mixed real strong and soak for 15 to 30 minutes than autoscrub it up. You can boost it with Oxalic or Citric.(that's what it has in it). The key is that ya need the all important surfactants in such situation to break through the oils and dirt which act just like a seal. The citric will just sit on it otherwise and do almost nothing. Have to be real careful if grout is stained. In fact make a disclosure that some of the stain may bleed out during the process. I have never seen a situation where it keeps bleeding during regular care though and it always looks even after I'm done.

Help Please:) Hoping someone knows where this small compressable black rubber ball that I found in my pump belongs.. Does it by chance belong on the tip of my st280 unloader valve? It has a recess and seems to fit right on fairly loose. If it does go there I imagine it is key element for the proper working of the unloader. If it goes somewhere else maybe it is less important and is meant to prevent backflow..

Russ, In the Intake picture above, the red hose on right comes down across front of motor from an elevated float tank. It then goes into a 4way pipe fitting (inlet,bypass,out to pump, and a factory installed upstreamer). The black hose is the bypass off unloader, The red hose on left comes out of 4way up and over into pump.. A shop once told me that I need to have a restrictor inside the intake hose so the vac/flow switch would work. I understand what your saying about if there is bypass while spraying that there then would be less vacuum to work the switch. I dislike the whole idea. It is finicky and isn't conducive to parts replacement in a bind. I had replaced inlet hose and had figured I better feed that pump as much as it wanted. So how much bypass should I be seeing while spraying? I heard that a little is a good idea so that the unloader is always ready to respond at moments notice and so there is not a huge influx of pressure happening in the lines once trigger is released.. ANy truth in any of that. think I read such on the pumps 101 sections of either Delco or Hotwater Wizzard site. So I did a real bad dock job with unit last evening and I got all my pressure and a some larger percentage of my gpm back more so than machine has ever done for me before. But I am sure it is bypassing at least a half gal if not 3/4 gpm. While not spraying it kept popping in and out of bypass every 5 seconds or so. Am I gonna crank down the unloader or let up some to cure that? (can't think straight). I got my heat by slightly closing the ball valve I mentioned for the silly restriction. It is just out of sight in that picture top right. If I close down too much I can feel the differance and pump becomes starved.. Anybody else with some good info please jump in too.. Thanx, ~Kevin What options do I have for a new switch and what are the pros and cons in the different types?

Alan, I sliced just the tip of the little nipple in the guage with a razor to get to the little pin hole meant for breathing. Wonder how import that is in some situations... Russ, I must have spiked that guage messin with unloaders cause we haven't had any freeze since I stuck it on. I suppose I should not rely on it really at all now. Went out last evening and pinched the bypass hose and got no changes so I popped off the hose at the bypass barb and plugged the hose with a socket wrench extention and clamp. When I fired up unit with trigger on there was about 3/4 to 1 gpm. bypassing so I cranked down the unloader a bit. A few times of hooking hose back up and testing the bypass while releasing trigger and I seem to sometimes get pressure at 3000 and other times at around 2700. Either the gauge is not reading correct sometimes or the unloader is fickle in that when returning it to same position it does not work same. Disregarding the gauge, and concentrating on the unloader instead, don't I want to acheive the 3k pressure but without a harsh popping down of the unloader piston or violence in my hose and reel? Is it correct that some unloaders keep pressure in line and some don't?. When I adjust this st280 to get my full pressure it still bypasses 3/4 gpm. There seems to be a point in tightening it down that I get the violoence in both the hose and unloader and then if I go farther I just get the unloader slapping down violently or healthely depending on how ya look at it I guess. As I remember my cat unloader with this gauge when it was good it would spike up maybe 200 psi then fall down slow to 0 psi with no pressure in hose on release of trigger. Will try to get some more pics up of the dumb plumb.. Thanx for the help guys.. ~Kevin