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MMI Enterprises

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Posts posted by MMI Enterprises

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Russ, Might want to consider Comodo as the firewall. Is right up there in terms of strength and usability for both novice and experts alike that like to make customized rules or that only utilize layered protection schemes. You'll never need more than the free version if mixing it with other great freebies..

  3. Posted · Report reply

    I use 3/8 PVC air hose, 100', cost $21 at Lowes on my Delevan 60 psi, 2.0 gpm setup. Not counting the pump, I have about $40 in mine. With the pump, just over $120 counting the cart.

    Hi Rich yea old timer!.. I use the 3/8 pvc on many a creation as well but do you like the combo of the 2gpm and 3/8 for staining as well as the chem application? Myself I tend to like the 3/8 for stain and garden size for chems. (if not DSing that is :) )

  5. Posted · Edited by MMI Enterprises
    He already said what he used     · Report reply

    That is what I do.... Stripper then brightener then water..... Stain then degreaser then water and on to the next one. Talk abotu speeding things up. Bought all my parts from a local farm store. Applied 28 gallons of stain on a fence and deck in 3.5 hours including masking the house.

    Yea but are you using same pump as sold on this TSC/COUNTYLINE UNIT??

    Little Buddy, If you got $400 to spend and already have some of the stuff such as wanding or battery you can do better than the TSC setup. I suggest getting the bigger Delavan pump like a 3.6 gpm and build off of it's potential.

    ps- nevermind tnroof.. I see you said yer using a 2gpm delevan

  8. Posted · Edited by MMI Enterprises · Report reply

    Little Buddy, I suggest going with a fatter garden hose diameter hoses such as talked about by the roof cleaner folk. Think one name is like Mean Green hose or the like and they chem resistant. Think I got my last suitable hose at costco or an rv supply place. Although the pump may not handle for long the strong chlorine mixes used in that specialty roof cleaning field you'll still see benefits at the end of the hose for general use. Key is that you still stick with suitable tipping for the pump being used. Note that it looks like Jim is using a standard pressure wand and gun with the interchangeable tips. That's what I do anyways with my various pump setups. :)

    ps - for carts like that check Harbor Freight or OSH... also if any of you do decide to stick with small diameter hose you could just use the orange air hosing they have at Harbor Freight which is already threaded. Way better than using any sort of clamps.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Haha ..I seen that pic and first thought was that is way more than $300 worth of spray equip but then remembered seeing the tank and pump part at TSC store last month out in the sticks. Great little setup to put on a cart or mount on truck for either wood or crete. Only reason I don't take advantage of such is that I have the whole DSing method diealed in with proper tipping, concentrations, method (i.e- many don't know how to deal with possible overspray issues while DSing and fear it).

  10. Posted · Report reply

    SH at 1.5 to 2% on horizontal wood is likely to kill any surface mold or mildew, as long as air temps. and dwell time is sufficient. We've used a SH/other stuff mix for years on previously stained RS maintenance jobs. It works without harming the oils, stain resins, and pigments already in the wood.

    Good to see you back here Kevin, where have you been?

    True true Rick, There is big difference between killing stuff and eating stuff off like the roof folk do so might be worth an ounce of prevention to go for a kill even if ya can't see anything growing. Remember the acidified stuff I mixed up and did tests with couple year back? Was just looking at that sample the other day and would say acidified mix might be another route to go here. Might allow for use of an even lower percentage. Natural oil stains like AC products are one thing, acrylics are another.. I would advise against using even low percentage on acrylics. In low percentage use on a regular basis will see a coating brittle out and in higher it will start stripping it. Too often a cleaning by homeowner will result in a walked off traffic pattern even more so than the stuff does normally.

    Oh and yea I check in once in awhile Rick...just been working my behind off on concrete mainly. Finished off a 12k' deco job a few week back and so been recouping.

  11. Posted · Edited by MMI Enterprises · Report reply

    Oxidizers like SH or percarb in low enough amounts to do no harm likely not strong enough to kill anything anyway so am considering if no mildew/mold then a lite dose of car wash followed by a touch of citric acid to bright thin areas up a tad might do well. Staying a good foot or more away with mid pressure also likely go a long way in doing no harm.

  13. Posted · Edited by MMI Enterprises
    Mist was for staining crete with penetrating stain     · Report reply

    A store corrected me.. what I lookin for is a round tip for airless not a cone..lol.. UMM but yea they all say such is not made for airless. Have seen them in a flat tip insert type. Being I wanted one for off an extension wand it looks like I have to rig something up with the Chapin type tips. Thought there was a thread somewheres here where someone drilled out a fan tip with a specific drill bit size to make short work of the issue. Thinking it would have to be like a .013 size to get the mist I am after. Any more thoughts on this?

    ps- "mist I am after" LOL..I CRACK MYSELF UP SOMETIMES!!

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Do any of you use a floor sander (orbital)? I've got a 14" Powr-Flite floor scrubber/sander that I picked up last year and never used.

    I've got a couple questions:

    1. If I run this on a deck, am I going to get swirl marks from the circular motion of the driver?

    2. What grit should I use?

    Thanks

    If you use sandpaper and don't do proper step down procedure to finer grits than yes you will.

    For your first outting give my method of using screen backed up by a floor pad. Screens in the 17" size can be had at most any rental location, in the Home Depot rental section, or any good janitorial supply house.

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Personally I pretty much despise the square padded orbitals or hands and knees method on decking!

    Being I've been one of the biggest promoters for the use of the big swing machines on decking over the years it is nice to see others capitalizing on them.

    Give me a 20" swing buffer , and some 60,80,100 or 120 grit screen backed up by a standard 1" floor pad for some cushion and I am a happy guy.

    That's enough cut for me almost any day on wood unless I grinding a slab. Needing to go any deeper or faster tends to put my jobs in the 'just reskin that ugly muffed up thing' catagory.

    But yea there is no compare between a little vibration versus a big swipe.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    ..just checking in on this old thread to see if we got any new info?

    Let's see where the following post to Scott leads us...(posted also on TheWoodPros) :

    Tergitol NP-9 - TheWoodPros.com Forum

    "Hi Scott,

    Firstly what is your last reference about?. Is that contact going to share info about the chemical in question?

    My goal with the boosters has always been to try and find clarity on which of the various chems work as a booster for synthetic coating removal yet is considered safe by modern day standards of using the chems in residential settings in quantity. There has been much confusion regarding chem names due to synonym and brand names and but I think last I checked I had it weeded down to 6 different CAS numbered chems. My concern is that the NP-9 might be the one not so safe, if not actually banned in some places like Europe..(don't quote me there without confirming).

    Following link will take you to work in progress on TGS that your welcome to hash about if you like. I provided many links throughout the thread but the specific post I link to has the synonyms and summary on what we all talked about. Even though the list of synonyms for NP-9 looks long if not most popular (at least historically) doesn't mean it is best choice. I can tell you from personal research that the 2-butoxy (aka- butyl cellosolve, which is number 5 on the list) is the one sighted most often as being a fast degradable chem in the environment and is in my floor strippers and products such as purple power. Although all these chems should be treated with respect and handled with proper safety equipment, it is the NP-9 (number 3 on list)that I would question the most before adding it to a mix.

    www.thegrimescene.com/forums/wood-cleani...ycol.html#post109147

    Besides the question of what is most safe there is the question of which of the chems will react or help to set off the caustic or which will only help to wet/soak in/remove surface tension."

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Scott, And have you noticed it is a hard call unless you get right down there with the wood real close and personal? I tried explaining it to the customer like I did above with an emphasis on the idea that washing/pressuring ones way into the deeper/stained look is not really the way to go. I may have compared the wetting that would happen when the new oil goes on to the look that happens when one gets concrete wet. Telling someone basically that a prep that looks cleaner,better,deeper, or more consistent will hamper the length of time their new stain will last is bound to get an odd reaction so I am sure that is why I did not get a call back on doing that job.

    (disclaimer: none of this talk applies to other woods that I know of :)

  19. Posted · Report reply

    My comments to this would be that penofin seems to be best applied to a shady area and I like Dan's science project..haha.. I call it fortifying with urethane though myself..

    Scott I would just warn about going to thick when boosting as such or trying poly for that matter. You go so far as to inhibit moisture transfer on a piece of wood that you can't possibly encapsulate fully and you will be experience catastrophic delamination. :)

  21. Posted · Report reply

    I dont have a problem with it. Once you educate the customer to the point where they can wrap their mind around whats going on, its fine. It takes a couple years to get past the: "You mean to tell me there is no product that will hold up on this ipe that we paid $6/ft for?" Once you clear that hurdle, its all good and the deck is sweet every year.

    With Ipe besides getting them to wrap their minds around the price issues it is extremely difficult to get them to accept what is actually going on with the wood or what needs to happen in way of prep for a chance of longer cycle between restaining. Last one awhile back, just consider it a consult, the guy had already done much of the testing for me. Main thing I think he never grasped was that once you take off all that sorta dingy/silver ugly dead/dry wood stuff, which I consider somewhat good and beneficial as a mechanical binder(for ipe anyways), you are right back to square one with oozing extracitives hampering yer coating or rather penetration. Did I mention this one before?,... feels like deja vu..sorry.. ;(

    (guy had Fenner's stuff laying around...wonder if he's heard from this one)

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Dave & Mike, Maybe try the search function as I know there is some good threads laying around where guys have used boost/glycol products to properly get at the thick paint or synthetic coatings. A good dwell or soaking overnight under plastic can work to get it good and ready too..

    Hey people, who am I thinking of that did that one paint strip with all that raised decking that went over to a stairway?

  24. Posted · Report reply

    First airing I missed but show was repeated again tonight...

    I'm from same city as the Paul guy. Being I am fairly active around town both day and night I can't help wonder why I've never seen a bunch of them vehicles around or heard of GRS. Could just be one of those things as he likely never heard of me neither.

    But jeez.. he said he doing like 230k with about 75k profit? Where oh where does 155k overhead go? I've seen nor heard any tv or radio ads or anything in way of rigs, etc.... I don't get it. Well he did mention basically the business being from municipalities.

    One thing I noted was that he said the proprietary cleaner was not available retail. I take it that is to say he don't just pop over to West Sac and buy Taginator from the janitorial supplier or mix up some hydrox and glycol?

    haha, what can I say..I must be living in a bubble and been missing out on all the good work.

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