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MMI Enterprises

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Posts posted by MMI Enterprises

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Seems the more complex formulations get the more simple or old time they really are.

    My dear old dad swears by thompsons mixed with linseed.

    I always notice that most diy stain recipes handed down or found around the net use about the same ratios of ingredents.

    Here's an idea..in a pinch try boiling up some Alboline for a paraffinic repellant additive.

    I don't doubt the talk of copper as being ingredients for pigment...Main stuff to get the green or blue tones in concrete staining are copper. (I've used root killer :) ). Other metals are iron and mangenese. Of course metals would be the contributing element in what some are familiar as calling clay pigments. Interesting to think about...when it comes down to it though, wood care requires all the stuff of fungicide, etc..

  7. Posted · Edited by MMI Enterprises · Report reply

    Thought the wet says upto 3:1...what it cost?

    Although I am fan of solvent products these waterborne products with their urethane fortification or catylists seem a workable option. Out here in Ca it can be tuff for manufactures to get their solvent products by the VOC. Formulating with exempt acetone from what I can tell gets them in but the usual result is lower solids as if they just diluting rather than adding more solids.

  8. Posted · Report reply

    Probably more important than choosing any perticular brand or style is that of changing the filters often enough or having right filters in first place.

    Even though I have a full face battery powered type respirator, I mainly just use the HF twin cartridge respirators. The $5 saved can go towards filters or buying a new one...I get them real dirty and don't like cleaning the rubber or the harness, so I toss and replace the whole thing.

    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=44113

  9. Posted · Edited by MMI Enterprises · Report reply

    Possable curing compounds as Len mentions is something to consider for sure. One would think the concrete guys would know better since such areas usually always get some sort of coating treatment or other.

    On those bare/chipped areas you would want to splash some water on to see if it penetrates. Generally if it darkens and soaks up the water then it should be porous enough for to apply a suitable coating. Besides that the surface profile should be rough enough to provide mechanical adhesion. 80-100 grit would be a rule of thumb.

    That said, judging by how it looks, I think it likely coating failure by way of inferior product rather than prep. Seems to look like one of those new fandangled deck coatings that was just painted on to the crete...probably doesn't involve any kind of primer/bonding system or anything along the lines of being a penetrating staining system or 2-part catalyzed system. If ya color such areas ya really got to lock thing in with some mil thickness of good stuff.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Did a bit of research on the last guy to work this deck... He tends to use eco-friendly sealers... this one might possibly be that timber tech / timber pro stuff.... Was a nightmare on a job 2 yrs. ago. LIke Ive said before, I see so few of these acrylics, really need to put together a tester kit! Feel like I'm always scratching my head when building a proposal for these buggers! Any tips on putting together a tester kit? Chem resistant bottle w/ 8oz/gal ratio HD80 or F-18? Is it generally acceptable to perform this kind of test on a deck that hasnt been inked into contract yet?

    Could be Envirolast Stain..some rave about it up the mountain.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Yea your not even showing us down by the pool.. what it look like?.. Acrylic shouldn't have problem with scratch persay due to the type of soft foot traffic. But the water getting up underneith causing delamination or clouding could be nightmare. Chlorine levels usually low enough to not cause too much issue on the exterior acrylics. Cementous pool decking is often done with acrylic.

    Hey you know if this was another one of them deals where the painter knew best?

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Got an idea for the iframes Pat...Over time ya build up a bunch of videos on youtube. Have them seperated in folders specific to the type of work and then when ya iframe to the folder addy it becomes like your video gallery wthin your own site but your not hosting them. Or ya could do same with pics or with open forum posts where you have chatterboxed alot. :)

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Was gonna say does that deck really need redone..that is until I seen the blotch of the last pic.

    Might clean up ok with some bleach swell enough to recoat with same product though. Seems intact from where I am sitting.

    On other hand, Well if he willing to pay then give him bare wood again.

    That is deffinately a $2.5+ per sq. acrylic deck mang!!

    BTW..Is that guy the modeling agency guy?? :)

  18. Posted · Edited by MMI Enterprises · Report reply

    Pat, True true what Beth said about cross browser friendlyness. Last I heard my site was not displaying correctly in Firefox. I don't care all that much about it as my page views are still mainly off IE users but I do plan to fix it at some point. Originally all was go and but something of object sizes, etc. snuck in making things unfriendly.

    One thing on the use of the iframes is that I wouldn't recommend using if the place your displaying contains a very wide content that forces people to constantly scroll both horizantal and verticle. My example of the one that works swell enough for me is on my wood page... is the link to Wood Care Basics. As time goes I plan to add more Iframe as I can not deny that not only do others write or make good points but I also believe that success can be had by associating with the right places or folks.

    I'm not sure you get any SEO benefit with iframes since the data is on another URL....

    I agree.. never heard that it would benefit anyone in an SEO way except for the place being linked to. That said.. probably not a good idea to iframe to service competition or those under you.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Look John.. I would just like it if you could be clear here on which of the 3 products on Olympic's 'toner' section that you have been refering to. All three have the word toner on the can. One is predominately a green colored can (max) and another has Toner written in big bold lettering... 1,2, or 3 please...

    Thanx now :)

    Color is simple redwood color.

  22. Posted · Edited by MMI Enterprises · Report reply

    I asked a simple question in the other thread (stain vs seal) and I have never gotten the same answer from anyone, and it looks like a 2 page debate with disagreement so maybe that wasn't such a 'basic" question after all..

    Hi Rob,

    Sometimes answers are not all inclusive and but that does not mean that there is disagreement to basic questions that inspired things. Your stain versus sealing question over there is no exception in that most everyone is in agreement that the qualities of most manufactured stains usually involves sealing qualities but a sealer does not have to impart coloration/pigmentation. For instance, many people apply clear synthetic paraffinic sealers such as parafin wax (comes from mineral oil manufacture) without striving for other qualities found in various types of stain such as pigmentation or solid curing resins. They also apply clear top film forming sealers with curing resns to some substrates that are not paraffinic. Traits of sealer is that it can also include clear whereas by definition stains can not...simple answer is of course that seals keep things out but so can stains.

    Yes this is crossthreading at some level but you mentioned that debate here so I did not feel it fair to use the subdebate over there as some sort of basis for your deal here...

    Good luck on this deck though. I believe you need to focus on using the chems the way everyone is saying and also perhaps tend to defurring or sanding that deck. Pics can be deceiving...if when you go back and it looks bright and dry but it looks muddy when wet then you have a thin film of wood fur that wants removed. Sometimes when ya strip wood and even brighten it you can still get down there after and scrap darker stuff up with yer fingernail. Let dry, if almost bright or patchy bright, defur it.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/pdf1991/feist91a.pdf

    "Two basic types of finishes (or treatments) are used

    to protect wood surfaces during outdoor weathering:

    (a) those that form a film, layer or coating on the

    wood surface, and (b) those that penetrate the wood

    surface leaving no distinct layer or coating. Filmforming

    materials include paints of all descriptions,

    varnishes. lacquers and also overlays bonded to the

    wood surface. Penetrating finishes include preservatives,

    water repellents, pigmented semitransparent

    stains and chemical treatments (Banov 1973)."

    "Latex paints are suspensions of

    inorganic pigments and various latex resins in water,

    and form porous coatings.

    When pigments are added to water-repellent preservative

    solutions or to similar transparent wood finishes,

    the mixture is classified as a pigmented penetrating

    stain (sometimes referred to as an impregnating paint).

    Addition of pigment provides color and greatly increases

    the durability of the finish. The semitransparent

    pigmented penetrating stains permit much of

    the wood grain to show through they penetrate into

    the wood without forming a continuous layer."

    "Commercial finishes known as heavy-bodied, solid

    color or opaque stains are also available. but these

    products are essentially similar to paint because of

    their film-forming characteristics."

    ------------------------------

    http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/finlines/knaeb95b.pdf

    "Latex paints are also more

    porous than oil-base paints; they

    can “breathe” while they shed

    water."

    "Solid-color stains also form a film.

    They look and act like thin paints."

    "Semitransparent stains penetrate the wood without

    forming a film, allowing much of

    the wood grain to show through

    the finish. Latex-base semitransparent

    stains are film-forming

    finishes and will not perform like

    true penetrating stains. Oil-base

    semitransparent stains allow the

    wood to “breathe,” so the finish

    doesn’t blister or peel even if the

    moisture content of the wood is

    high."

    Beth, thanx..your links try to prove my points well..

    If we are to believe these last few goobermint info's do not contain contradiction, and I don't believe they necessarily do at all, then we are to believe both latex paint and oil based semi trans stains can breathe. We should realize though that they most likely do mean breathing at a vapor transmission level rather than solid liquid passing through...

    But main message that can be taken is that as the solid level of an oilborne increases the ensueing coating (mandated) results in non-breathability via thickness and what we end up with is paint. Thickness equals solids..solids equal loss of texture when a film is formed covering it-- aka PAINT.

    Paint will continue to mean covering visually and physically.

    Stain will cntinue to mean not covering physically as much as a paint.

    "For wood, staining is the act of applying a color or pigment at any level upto opaqueness without totally doing away with surface texture. Total opaqueness with thick film formation that covers texture is painting."

  25. Posted · Report reply

    I'm not going to argue with you. Solid Stains for Exterior Surfaces | Cabot

    Go read for yourself.

    Solid stain covers grain.

    Beth

    Why argue then? :).. but please do point to what ya want us to read as Cabot is not saying anything there about their solid OVT stain (which I use btw) doing away with a woods texture. Of course a solid covers grain visually.. Am talking about texture here. Or feel or 3D..ya know.

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